WME

A 100w solar "kit" can be had for less than $175.00. Save you a whole lot of work by getting one asap. A 50w system is around $110, it would do while your at home, but wouldn't add that much energy while dry camped.

Nexen SB802 and Hankook RA08 are well thought of tires in the correct 14" size. (LT185/14C) 15" is an idea, but custom rims are $600-800 a set.

The stock BTU heater is fine down to around 20 degs. If you are one of the silly people who camp in colder weather than that you should up grade. The main problem becomes the battery and the lower btu heater runs longer and uses more battery. I have a 19K btu in mine and it is good to 0 deg.

On top of the hole.

Did you check the oil level?

Don't forget side skirts, the airdam/sideskirts thing is to keep air from getting under the vehicle and causing drag.

Sounds normal! Also check vent hose, it should run uphill all the way, no sags.

It all boils down to a bad adjustment. The odds of two mechanical failures in the same engine and at the same time are very unlikely. The only recourse is to go to a different mech and have him document the valve clearances. Which you pay for and you are gambling that it was done wrong. The weird things are like a shim failed and wiped out itself or a cam lobe, this would explain it running good for awhile. This would mean the valve isn't burned but just not opening, so bad idle and bad compression. ??? Were 3 and 6 adjusted.

This is hard/impossible to answer based on net postings. However here goes, yes it is very possible to have had burnt valves before the adjustment. The engine should have been acting like it is now and the adjustment would NOT make any improvement. The mech should have found valves with very tight or no clearance. A pre adjustment compression would have shown this but is not normally done unless the mech finds a tight valve and is a bit worried about things. For a shim to jump out of the bucket ranks along with turning lead into gold, these engines have billions of miles and yet there is no net babble about this problem. A valve guide shifting is almost in the same class of possibilities. But by pulling the valve cover you could see if any guides have moved. To hang a valve the guide would have to drop almost 1/2 inch or be so cockeyed you would see head damage The part of the valve or valve seat that "burns" can not be seen or felt from the outside of the engine, like during the adjustment. Hope this babbling helps some.

What we have here is a vocabulary problem, I only have 2 ea 2x8 not tied together. So I call them cross beams cause they go across the roof. But you got the idea about a small block at the end keeping them from slipping off.

Just make the cross beams a bit long and screw a block on each end that overhangs the sidewalls, no slip then.

IMPORTANT Due to weird electronic things, if you do this mod you must wait until the fan stops then move the switch. DO NOT change when the fan is turning.

Forget about the outside. You can't see it when your living inside. Just a DIY wash and wax will work wonders. Just seal the roof. For the inside magic words are TSP, Kilz, and the interior kid friendly paint in your choice of color (s). All from the big box store of your choice. TSP is what you will use to clean anything that you want to paint. Remember that you are dealing with surfaces that have 30 years of gunge on them. In this case cleanliness is next to Godliness. Kilz is a primer/stain hider it helps in making the paint stick and keeping stains from peeking through the final paint The kid friendly paint will let you wash off any spills. You can do this YOURSELF and in 2 budget driven steps, clean, prime and then paint. Look through this site and see what happens when you paint the entire inside. P.S. Lack of budget means DIY, don't sell your self short. The skills you need are simple and easy to learn. P.P.S. IF the water heater works and the holding tanks don't leak the rest of the plumbing system is very simple. Even without hot water being able to use the toilet in the middle of the night is nice.

Forget the adjustment, bend the long rod so that the valve is full on. Or remove the adjustment end of the rod and bolt it full up to the chassis

http://www.parallaxpower.com/7300/Flowchart7300.pdf troubleshoot away

Removing the drain plug should be the same as removing the pan.

Well if the pan is installed correctly, then all that is left is the dipstick is miss mounted

Dolphin s have a history of being more leaky than most. Sunraders can leak but won't rot. There are some aluminum framed, fiberglassed paneled MH, Escaper, and some others, again leaks but not much rotting. The Americana is fiberglass and is OK if the cabover is attached to the house correctly Most all the rest are wood framed with aluminum siding or some have Filon (fiberglass) siding. With these the care it received by the PO's is often more important than the who the MFG was.

Back to reality. Check the light bulb, check to see it its installed correctly, check for 12v at socket. Check door switch Look for a fuse, does the refer work on 12v?

Plan B do the same thing, but use a tubing expander to flair the pipe so that there no sharp edges to bite someone

Most of the new regulators are 2 stage and much longer. You may need a few mods to your setup.

This sucks, but how else can you check a water pump?? Maybe a case for idiot light and gauge.

Maybe ya'lls light are burned out too :lol2:

OOPS, I'll turn around in a few more minutes......Famous last words

Un plug the power leads to the AC heater and check for continuity with an ohm meter.