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hey there, when i had a new roof put on my 92 winnie warrior, i chose to eliminate the forward roof vent. i concluded it would just be another source of potential leaks and i did not feel the venting benefit was substantial enough to make a difference. i also did not choose to have the TV antenna put back into the roof for the same reason, potential leak source, and i am not a big fan of television, the rear vent (bathroom) with the fan was replaced new. just my thoughts... possibly the p.o. had the same idea and therefore only one vent. good luck, outside of rig looks good! all the best. joe from dover
OK I'll try simple.
2 batteries in parallel the voltage stays the same and the capacity doubles. So 2 12v 100AH batteries electrically become a 12v 200AH battery. Parallel is + to + and - to -. 2 batteries in series the voltage doubles and the AH stays the same. So 2 6v 200AH batteries electrically become a 12v 200AH battery. Series is + to - and the load is connected to the - of one battery and to the + of the other.
The standard 6v battery is a CG-2 or a T-105 they a 200AH capacity. There is no standard 12v battery, depending on the RV you may have a GP 22=55AH, a GP 24=80AH, a GP 27=90AH, a GP30=110AH or a GP 31=125AH. It all depends on space and the P/O's budget.
A 200w solar panel setup will support 2 batteries
You would not normally use 2 12v batteries in series. That would be a 24v system.
200w of solar is a goodly amount for an RV, so if they do work you're golden. Most solar controllers have a 10 or 15 amp load limit through the controller. IF your total 12v load is below this limit then you can make use of the LVCO. If your total load is more than this you have to connect the load to the battery and just leave the load terminals on the controller empty.
If you have an original 1980 converter they are a very poor design. It may say 35 amp converter but that's the 12v load power. The battery charger is usually only 1-2 amps. A modern 35 amp controller can charge the battery at a full 35 amps. If your running 12v power (lights, TV, fan) then the battery charge rate is 35 amps - the load. So a 10 amp load means that you have 25 amps to the battery.
A battery will only take the charge level it needs. So if it almost charged and even if you have it hooked up to a modern 35 amp converter the battery may only take 2-4 amps.
The same thing applies to your shore power system. If you have a 15 amp plug and use an adapter to plug into a 30 receptacle its not going to force 30amps into your RV.
Google is not helping. With my old truck the 12v batt is conected to the 12v transformer and the load. So if i plug to shore power the batt charger will try to charge the load out. On the controller. Is this ok?
The easy way is go straight to battery with the solar. but ill miss all the advantages of the controller. No auto dim or low batt cut off. How have you guys delt with this?
Relay is one option. Or simple off switch if we remember.
2 100w panel. Free and in bad condition. Flexible and sat on boat for years. 100/20 victron controller. 1 12v batt.
If you have a simple way to explane 2 6v bats or a 24v system. Would love to hear about it.