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i have been running the new lexus motor in my dolphin to test different things. The oil pressure was around 65 psi, then a while later it was 50, then 40 then 20.. no change in the sound of the motor and the oil light never came on, even when it got to 5! I was sure the motor had oil pressure, it sounded fine so I just assumed it was a gauge issue. I had pinched the tube or something.

Finally got to looking into it, did some tests, and figured I had a bad gauge, so i ordered a new one, an electric one this time. got it all installed and fired it up. 20psi. wth!

baffled, i started to do internet searches and found that some people claimed the same issue and it was solved with a new oil filter. I though BS, but what the heck. Installed the new, different brand, filter. and i was floored to see the pressure at 65.

who would have thunk it. I will cut that fram filter apart just to see what i can see. Odd no?

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No likey Fram.

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i have been running the new lexus motor in my dolphin to test different things. The oil pressure was around 65 psi, then a while later it was 50, then 40 then 20.. no change in the sound of the motor and the oil light never came on, even when it got to 5! I was sure the motor had oil pressure, it sounded fine so I just assumed it was a gauge issue. I had pinched the tube or something.

Finally got to looking into it, did some tests, and figured I had a bad gauge, so i ordered a new one, an electric one this time. got it all installed and fired it up. 20psi. wth!

baffled, i started to do internet searches and found that some people claimed the same issue and it was solved with a new oil filter. I though BS, but what the heck. Installed the new, different brand, filter. and i was floored to see the pressure at 65.

who would have thunk it. I will cut that fram filter apart just to see what i can see. Odd no?

I know nothing about the Lexus motor. That being said, if a conventional engine gets a restricted oil-filter - the bypass opens and seems the oil pressure should not drop like that. Many engines have "full flow" bypass systems. Seems your Lexus does not. Kind of wonder why?? Sounds like a bad design to me.

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With all of the Fram filter being junk stuff I have to wonder why it is the largest selling filter made. If you have a plugged up filter it kind of means there was junk inside the engine that made it plug up it was only doing what it was made to do. I think I would screw a mechanical gauge in and see what kinds of readings you get. Some gauges had internal voltage regulators some were in the cluster.

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This is (I believe) the original Filter Test (with update). Like batteries, there are a limited number of manufacturers with different paint jobs. I'd be a bit wary, since it's possible specific filters might now be made by different manufacturers and might now even be from some anonymous factory in Chindia. :)

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html

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I don't see how anyone can legitimally complain or brag about Fram filters in the general sense. They makes many grades and sometimes one engine has a 4-5 choices.

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Fram filter makes OEM filters for many different cars. Frankly I don't care, a filter co won't be in business very long if they make defective filters some times I use Fram some times I use NAPA brand I have never had any problems with any filter.

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the Lexus does have a bypass, but I think it was in the filter housing that I removed. I put a remote filter system on, I always though the filter had a bypass built into it .. No idea. Not really sure what happened, I do it is working now!

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Fram filter makes OEM filters for many different cars. Frankly I don't care, a filter co won't be in business very long if they make defective filters some times I use Fram some times I use NAPA brand I have never had any problems with any filter.

Same here. I just check the specs first on the specific filter I'm buying. Wix makes NAPA filers and we used WIX for many years on heavy-equipment. Wix and Fram make below-OEM grade, OEM grade, and above OEM grade filters. If someone buys the cheapest Fram filter on the shelf at Walmart and it's NOT listed as an OEM replacement - seems there is little to justify a complaint later.

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You get what you pay for it's much cheaper than any thing else there must be a reason.

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Its not so much that Fram is a melt your motor bad filter, its that there much better filters available.

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I guess I'll have to ask what is better and why? Does brand "A" really make your engine last longer? And if so how much longer? My last Tacoma had 285 thousand miles on it running the "orange can of doom". Fram to me is just another filter pretty much you have seen one you have seen them all they all filter junk if some filter better than others it does not seem to make a bit of difference in longevity. I will say over the years motor oils have advanced 10 fold and engines now last far longer than they ever did.

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I guess I'll have to ask what is better and why? Does brand "A" really make your engine last longer? And if so how much longer? My last Tacoma had 285 thousand miles on it running the "orange can of doom". Fram to me is just another filter pretty much you have seen one you have seen them all they all filter junk if some filter better than others it does not seem to make a bit of difference in longevity. I will say over the years motor oils have advanced 10 fold and engines now last far longer than they ever did.

If you think Fram is ok, then go for it. I won't use one of them.

Examples $$ Filter area end cap

Fram $4 193 sq" paper

Wix $5 349 sq " steel

Purolator $3 316 sq " steel

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When the time comes I lose an engine because of an oil filter I may change my mind. I do not sell any vehicle usually until they have at least 200K on them I use whatever filter is convenient more often than not a Fram because I can buy oil at Walmart cheaper than I can buy oil from NAPA even with my co discount by a good $6 and that is the filter they sell. If a engine fails 99% of the time it is related to lack of maintenance not the filter. By the way the only filter I have ever seen fail was a Purolator it blew apart.

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did you cut the filter open?

No, I could see no earthly reason why I would want to do that.

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With piston aircraft engines, cutting the oil filter open is normal procedure, to check for metal shavings, sediment or other deposits. Usually, I just find a lot of carbon.

With my cars, i do cut open the fuel filters.

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many engines have gone 100k miles with fram, scary but true.

if you are picky about filters, buy oem toyo filter, I bought a case many moons back and still using them.

or get Mobil 1 oil fiters from your local Mobil dealer, much cheaper if you buy em by the box.(12 I think)

on the topic of oil pressure, I am yet to see an oil pressure sensor behave correct or send the correct pressure.

on my mazdas, very flaky

on my duramax, the pressure drops to 30 psi or 20 psi with synthetic oil and factory filter, but I get 80 psi with dino in winter.

from what I have read, the experts commented that as long as you see SOME oil pressure you are good.

also, high pressure might trigger the oil bypass in your oil filter,

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Idle curiosity strikes again. Amazon lists filters for my 87

Bosch 3330 $4.83 as a Prime add on item.

Toyota Genuine 90915-yzzd1 $7.05 with Prime shipping

Mobil 1 M1-204 $11.16 with Prime shipping.

Wix 51348XP $12.67 no Prime but free shipping

I'm placing an order this evening to take advantage of a special anyway. Will order a couple OEM filters as well. Have not confirmed the part numbers even for my own yet. Yours may vary.

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Don,

go with Bosch or Toyo,

I have a bosch on my Honda fit now, very well made filter.

I would go with the bosch.

I change my filter on my Hondas every other oil change with synthetic oil.

if you have farm/fleet stores nearby, they sell wix for cheaper, you can also find Donaldson.

I bought my M1 by cases for my dmax and Hondas, I think they came to $7 per filter.

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For the 22RE, the anti-drainback valve is important reduce engine wear. If I used a FRAM, on my old 85, the oil light would illuminate on startup for about 5 seconds and the engine would sound rough and then pick up RPM when the oil light extinguished. No oil light with NAPA or OEM filters. The Toyota dealer usually had a good deal on multiple filter purchases.

For the six cylinders, no issue with FRAM but I prefer NAPA, Purolater or OEM.

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I ordered the OEM. I fall into the just about any filter should do the job camp. Never heard any issues with Fram. Used them exclusively on my vehicles and Castrol GTX oil. 2005 Corolla (197k miles) and 97 jeep wrangler, (186k miles). When I sold both they ran perfect but both had the original clutches and my butt really tired of sitting in that jeep seat.

I now drive mainly a company vehicle. Maint is Enterprises problem and longevity the fleet managers headache. Company bought us all vehicles because they were paying us a small fortune to drive our own. My personal vehicle now is an F250 superduty. I drove it less than 1500 miles in the last 6 months. I use Mobil One with it. Change the oil yearly. Motor home sees enough miles per year to only get an oil change every six months though doubt it needs it. The fall oil change seems like a waste.

Wife's Honda gets serviced at the dealer. Her choice. Bless her heart she wants me to be able to retire from working on cars.

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Don,

go with Bosch or Toyo,

I have a bosch on my Honda fit now, very well made filter.

I would go with the bosch.

I change my filter on my Hondas every other oil change with synthetic oil.

if you have farm/fleet stores nearby, they sell wix for cheaper, you can also find Donaldson.

I bought my M1 by cases for my dmax and Hondas, I think they came to $7 per filter.

You realize your Honda's factory filters are from Fram? You would be better off changing the filter and leaving the oil when using synthetic.

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You realize your Honda's factory filters are from Fram? You would be better off changing the filter and leaving the oil when using synthetic.

You are correct, I recall they did this few years back, the same filter, wow, scary. Honda manual still says filter every other oil change, I will take an M1 with me next time I head to the dealer.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3097085

I have a lot of idle time on my Honda Fit, sometimes 30 hours in a week. oil is cheap, I dump it around 5k miles and put in fresh oil. the car has 50k miles,

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