jjrbus Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 I liked the layout of the Rialta, but the prices are ridiculous and repairs and parts are out of hand. The final straw for me was someone on a trip needed a transmission rebuilt, the transmission was $5000 and they were told they could pick it up in the spring!! The money is bad enough, but come back in the spring, not what I want to deal with. Looking at the Toy if I could install 2 captains chairs where the sofa is would be ideal for me, the ability to transport 4 adults in comfort. Plus nice comfortable seat's for the wife and I. But there is that pesky water tank. I am in a holding pattern here waiting for various things to be delivered so decided to do some experimenting. I explored various areas and looked at what was available in sized tanks for reasonable money. I hoped to upgrade to a 30 gallon tank, but would have to spend far more on a tank than an extra 10 gallons is worth. I settled on a surplus 21 gallon tank with fittings for $40 that will fit the available space. I built a mock up of the tank and it appears to be a good fit. I now need to fabricate something to hold the tank and route some plumbing to it. But will wait until the tank is delivered to be double sure. This could all blow up in my face as I do not have a super computer with CAD to help me along. However it will not be the first time I have made a mess. Any thoughts, ideas, input, suggestions, wise cracks always greatly appreciated. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Gravity pour fill above the tank, so you can just pour water in from anything and dont need a hose. Keep the hose fill too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Wide metal straps, bolted through the floor with big fender washers. Bumper stops bolted through the floor on all sides so it does not slide around. Question is will the floor and framing support that weight while going down the road abused by road conditions. Some time ago I pulled my 16 gal tank out and put down a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood under the tank to spread out the weight better and strengthen the floor. As far as captains chairs my preference is a couch. It is hard to sprawl out in a captains chair. Plus I think the layout under the couch has a wheel well and mine has a storage compartment, coach battery, converter and the shore power cord so you might have to elevate the area and then deal with the safety aspects of proper seat belt bolt down etc. I am not saying it can't be done just that I prefer a couch and the storage area I presently have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 you can fill the water with out a hose I use a plastic transmission funnel I carry 2 5 gallon tanks for xtra water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 I am muddling along with my tank relocation. This will be the base the tank sits on. Yes, the angle iron is an old bed frame. With 1/2" pressure treated plywood to protect the tank. At this point in time I wish I had a welder. Even I cannot justify buying one for one project. I cannot see anything at this point that will kill this relocation, but still possible. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 so are you mounting the tank under the rig? the one benefit of having tank inside the rig no one else mentioned is temperature. Maybe its because i live in michigan; or maybe because its -7 out right now, but if i was planning on winter use I would want that tank inside where it stays liquid. Just a thought. the greay and black tanks freeze outside and i know I have had to pour boiling water in them before to dump, but never have i needed to melt my fresh tank; which is nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Thanks for the response and good point. On my last motor home I built insulated heated holding tanks, never used them!! In the very unlikely event that I end up in freezing temperatures I will drain the tank and live with it. If the person buying this unit at my estate sale wants freeze proof tanks they can modify it to their liking I stay in touch with the man who bought my last motor home, he has never used the tank heaters. Of course this time when I am done I will want to take up cross country skiing JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 oh snap, you're in florida? thats all you had to say. yeah i was just going to suggest heater grid mesh to put on the bottom of the mount... but if I lived in fla, i wouldnt bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Instead of insulating and heating the holding tanks, just throw some salt in on those rare occasions. I think the cheapest salt is as used in swimming pools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Salt is corrosive to metals; like those in pumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 An empty tank wont freeze, just make sure they are empty. RV anti-freeze is cheap, a few cups go a long way in near freezing weather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 agree with wme, this is also what i do when i winter camp. i would never drink out of the "fresh" water tank anyway; being that i bleach it once a year and have no clue what others ever put in it i treat it as non potable water. in winter its paper plate time and fast food; no dishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 No pump involved in pumping out holding tanks unless you've installed a mascerator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 was referring to the fresh tank, but you mean put salt in the pooper tanks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Insulating and heating a tank is fairly simple, Foam insulation board and waterbed heater underneath. 4 inch of water is required in tank at all times that heater is on and of course 110 must be always available. JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 They make 12 volt tank heaters for motorhomes. My Nissan was from Alaska and had heaters on all tanks. They were non-working when I got it so I removed them. http://www.ultraheat.com/tank_heaters.html Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 A little here and a little there. After looking at first area I was going to put tank, decided this spot would be an eaiser install. Tank is a little lower but I believe it will be ok, time will tell! Construction is heavier than I would have liked, but trying to work with what is on hand. This is only a test fitting to see what has to be done, then weld up and try to plumb it. I am only going to weld 3 down pieces and bolt bottom to them in case it needs to come out for what ever reason. I also need to figure how much the spring shakel can move, may require some tweaking? I have already made a ID 10 t error on the bolts, once welded there would be no way install tank, nuts must be welded inside bottom framework with bolts going in instead of out!! Now who's welder can I borrow? JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Started this little project 7 months ago. For the first time since I have owned the Toy I have running water inside, everything works and it held pressure for a few days., I jury rigged the water pump and it works on 12V. I keep getting sidetracked. But progress is progress. Now the DR does not want me to use my right arm for a few days, so another setback. Next I will tweak the electric as I change the inside a bit while working on the AC, looking for molding, cleaning up the outside, looking for a radio and 200 other things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 this no doubt means extra space where old tank used to be... what did you do with the extra space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Salt is corrosive to metals; like those in pumps Yes, here in Michigan - beet juice is the #1 non-toxic, non-corrosive, anti-freeze product - at least for tire ballast. Of course - it't not marketed as beet juice. Usually sold under the name of "Rim Guard." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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