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Led Headlights, Go From 40 Amps Consumption To 3.


Totem

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Have you seen any in use? Many LED light power specs are misleading. A bulb rated at 1000 lumens can be, in effect, brighter then one with 1800 lumens. Same goes with some candle-power ratings. No sure way to know how it's going to work until you actually see the lights in action. At least no sure way that I know of.

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I would be skeptical that they would do a good job. They are H4 replacements and I would bet the focal point would be off due to the design of the LED. I have 27 watt LED lamps on my tractor with 9 chips and a big aluminum heat sink and they are no where near as bright as the H4 truck lights. There are no heat sinks on the bulbs so I also doubt that they can stand the claimed output for very long. Another turn off they ship from China where there is no standard as far as output rating so they can claim what ever they want.

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Would they extend the life of your battery and alternator, if so how much?

At least 3 or 4 days.

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The high beams H4 bulbs rated at 2,765 Lumens I put in my Tacoma are 100 watt so with both burning I'm up to 16.6 amps so with the standard Toy home head lamps high beam we are looking at 10 amps or 1/6th of the alternators output. Now in order to use these bulbs in a Toy home would require the head lamps to be replaced with "E" spec.. H4 lamp assemblies such as http://www.rallylights.com/all/lights/headlamps/hl72310-165mm-ece-hi-lo-h4-conversion-headlamp-with-city-lamp.html so things start to get a bit pricey just to save a few watts.

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i put up grade old time sealed beams LOL in my 4wd they are 65 watt high beam over 55 watt low beam. some of the oem sealed beams only had a 35 watt low beam and a 55 watt high beam. they have worked great for me. and they are heavy duty truck rated ie more vibration resistant. those should be ok on the motor home also. my 4wd is 88 the same era. 65 watts each is less then 100 watts each and still work well with no big mods.

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Would they extend the life of your battery and alternator, if so how much?

No, not a all. An alternator capable of making 80 amps and down-rated to 60 amps is not going to live longer because you use a few less amps when night driving. As far as the battery goes - it has nothing to do with your headlights unless you accidentally leave them on with the engine turned off.

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they showed some pictures of them installed shining at night. Looks 10 million times brighter than my dodge headlights in the pictures.

I'd have to actually use them to judge. I'm skeptical because I've already had a lot of bad results when switching to LEDs when bright light is needed. I learned pretty quick that you cannot judge by advertised candle power, watts, or lumens. At a more general level - I'm wondering just how headlights can be made much brighter then then they already are without blinding the people coming the other way. I've already been nearly blasted off the road by some of the newer Xenon lights. The less amp-draw of the LEDs means nothing to me. The potential longevity DOES. But with the hot heat sinks - I'm not sure just how durable they are going to be. I read the OEM LED headlights will be thermal controlled and shut down by 10% - 20% when they get too hot.

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Guess ill buy some. Only way to get some fact into the fictional postulating that i enjoy reading in here. Personally i find its the type of led that matters, not china. It always makes laugh to see people who claim to want all for all so much hate on china. Lol

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I have got to ask you, how do you propose to get the LED's into the lights you all ready have? The stock Toy home lights are 6054's they are sealed beams sealed being the key word.

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I would wonder if some of that stuff is even road legal like DOT approved. in the u s. getting pulled over would tell I guess.

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Guess ill buy some. Only way to get some fact into the fictional postulating that i enjoy reading in here. Personally i find its the type of led that matters, not china. It always makes laugh to see people who claim to want all for all so much hate on china. Lol

How the heck does a person "fictionally postulate?" Making up an assumption based on fantasy? I suspect many comments here are based on past experience which is more like "inductive reasoning." Nothing wrong with that. Drawing from what we already know and using it to guess on something new until more complete data is available.

I've worked with a lot of LEDs. Some were a waste of money and some worked out fine. My gripe is that there is NO universal standard of metric that can use a number to tell you, for sure, if one bulb will "light the way" better then another. That is not fiction. Not a postulation either as applied to stuff already tried.

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While on the your subject of "fictional postulating" - one question I forgot to ask. Where did you come up with the 40 amp figure in your initial post for standard headlights? Standard bulbs on my 1988 Toyota are 35 watts on low-beam and 65 watts on high-beam. Times two that's 70 watts total in low and 130 watts total in high. 5 amps @ 14volts and 10 amps @ 14 volts. What am I missing here?

On the subject of LEDs, Federal-Mogul Wagner brand sells direct fit LED headlights that fit my 1988 Toyota. H6054LED. I notice that they give NO amp-draw specs. I have no idea why. Their Halogen bulbs for my Toyota, H6054 are rated at 5 amps each when on high-beam mode, with 40,000 Candle Power.

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How the heck does a person "fictionally postulate?" Making up an assumption based on fantasy? I suspect many comments here are based on past experience which is more like "inductive reasoning." Nothing wrong with that. Drawing from what we already know and using it to guess on something new until more complete data is available.

I've worked with a lot of LEDs. Some were a waste of money and some worked out fine. My gripe is that there is NO universal standard of metric that can use a number to tell you, for sure, if one bulb will "light the way" better then another. That is not fiction. Not a postulation either as applied to stuff already tried.

Yep, you are postulating with 0 experience on afore mentioned products. Unless you bought a set, its a guess in short.

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While on the your subject of "fictional postulating" - one question I forgot to ask. Where did you come up with the 40 amp figure in your initial post for standard headlights? Standard bulbs on my 1988 Toyota are 35 watts on low-beam and 65 watts on high-beam. Times two that's 70 watts total in low and 130 watts total in high. 5 amps @ 14volts and 10 amps @ 14 volts. What am I missing here?

You are missing the actual readings. Measure the draw, its average is closer to 40 not 35 as oem box would have you believe.

On the subject of LEDs, Federal-Mogul Wagner brand sells direct fit LED headlights that fit my 1988 Toyota. H6054LED. I notice that they give NO amp-draw specs. I have no idea why. Their Halogen bulbs for my Toyota, H6054 are rated at 5 amps each when on high-beam mode, with 40,000 Candle Power.

h i didnt know this i will check them out!
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Yep, you are postulating with 0 experience on afore mentioned products. Unless you bought a set, its a guess in short.

Postulating, yes. "Fictional postulating" . . no.

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You are missing the actual readings. Measure the draw, its average is closer to 40 not 35 as oem box would have you believe.

35-40 watts is a lot different then 35-40 amps.

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My point being that the header in your incipient post reads 40 amps, not 40 watts. 40 amps @ 14 volts would be around 500 watts.

Led Headlights, Go From 40 Amps Consumption To 3
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I got some specs for Federal-Mogul, Wagner-brand headlight bulbs that fit a 1988 Toyota truck/RV.

Standard non-halogen bulbs @ 13 volts: 4.3 amps (each) low beam. 5 amps (each) highbeam Total draw high - 10 amps

Halogen bulbs @ 13 volts: 2.7 amps (each) low beam. 5 amps (each) highbeam . Total draw high - 10 amps

LED bulbs @ 13 volts: 1.8 amps (each) low beam. 3.6amps (each) highbeam . Total draw high - 7.2 amps

No big gain in power savings. HUGE projected savings in bulb life though with the LEDs.

Average life of a standard bulb around 350 hours.

Average life of a Halogen bulb around 1000 hours.

Average life of a LED bulb around 15,000 hours.

So the LEDs are projected to last 15 times longer then halogens and at present, cost around 30 times more.

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Ok feel free to delete the topic. I agree the consumption power savings isn't what i had initially thought. Been without sleep a while this week after putting down our 15 year old shepherd.

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I had to put down my 15 year old border-collie mix a few years ago and still feel bad about it. He was probably the only living being on this earth that hung out with me yet NEVER got mad at me. If there IS a God, and a HEAVEN, dogs had better be allowed!

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I am going to add to this topic, not because I think anything I say is worth a dang, but because I spent the time reading the 4 pages so I feel entitled haha.

My EXPERIENCE with L.E.D.s (yes, real experience) is that your odds of finding a bulb/brand/output/color that truly makes you happy or at very least content with the amount you spent on buying them, is almost not ever going to happen.

I have bought from Cali, China, Japan..etc... I have outfitted 3 of my hondas, my wifes honda, and now my Rig, which now has every interior bulb, porch light, and all tail light bulbs, and front turn signals all donning L.E.D's. (I even have enough left over to replace every single bulb in my rig 2x over)

My personal experience is that if you are going to 'try out' L.E.D.'s in your rig, just be prepared and buy extra, or buy from a seller that offers a 'no-questions-asked' returns policy. I have had L.E.D's melt within hours of installation, and the replacement bulbs have lasted months. The quality of the bulb has everything to do with how happy you will be in the end. The "20 for $5" deal on Ebay will leave a sour taste in your mouth, or if you're lucky, maybe not. I find the tiny 194 or even the 7440/1556 bulbs are usually good enough for anyones liking. However, a complete headlight housing replacement (linked below) will do 2 things for you 1- meet your requirements/expectations, and 2- deplete your wallet of all your christmas money. You could try replacing your headlight bulbs with L.E.D. bulbs in an h-4 housing (which is my plan and seems to be your original topic), but you will most likely be less than pleased with your results for multiple reasons. one reason being that the h-4 housings that I have seen are low quality with a terrible scatter pattern, another reason being that if you combine a terrible scatter pattern with the low-quality lighting that an L.E.D. almost always gives you, you would be better off using candles in your headlight housings. L.E.D's are FAMOUS for having a HIGH light output (ouch thats bright), but you'll notice that light travels almost 1/3 of the distance of incandescent light. Thats why you can shine an L.E.D. flashlight in someones face from two rooms away and blind them, but if you were to point that flashlight at the ground, you can't see your way into the next room.

I must advise you to stick to your sealed beams. It's not worth the headaches. I say this with the intent to buy L.E.D.s for my headlights, because I expect to be disappointed and have little hope to be proven wrong.

I swapped my oem 1987 sealed beam units out for the h-4 housings, and I was instantly disappointed. My high beams might as well be "my other lowbeams". Scatter pattern is terrible, and my oem sealed units were 10x brighter and I could see a half mile away. L.E.D.s in my headlights are my way of saying "It can't be any worse, right?", even though I expect it will!

Now, as far as lighting in your rig that you don't need for real "projection", L.E.D.s are a great way to complement your rig. My tail lights are about twice as bright, with brilliant red and amber coloring. I used "C.O.B. L.E.D.'s" which are "Chip-on-board" bulbs, and these have a projector-style shroud to them which really eliminates that "Digi" look of the lower quality L.E.D.s. I am happy with them, although they were a little finicky at first.

Finally, If you are dead set on L.E.D. headlights, but don't want to waste your efforts and money isn't a concern, then G.E. is the way to go. They have complete headlight replacements that will make your wallet squeal like a pig, but is your best bet to cut through all the B.S. and just do it right the first time. I don't have any personal experience with them, but something tells me G.E. wouldn't put their name on something if they weren't able to claim it's ability to beat out all the competition. That's my 2 cents.

http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/na/consumer/products/highlights/nighthawk/led-headlights/overview/

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