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Replacing Carpet In The Cab


MischaT

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Company on e-bay sells custom molded carpets that are supposed to fit perfectly. :)

little pricy, but should be an easy install.

Remember, your cab is a 1978 or earlier, even if your model year is 1979 or later.

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I would like to put carpet into my RV because I thing it would make it a little quieter and possibly cut down on engine heat in the cab. I read the reviews on the Whitney carpet and I will not be buying from them.

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I did our Nova Star, the carpet was glued hard to the floor and came out very hard , we then put down the self stick Eastwood insulation and sound deadener. We found an outfit on line that made the premolded carpets ( same as Rockauto) , we paid extra for the extra rubber on the bottom plus they came with extra felt padding under the foot area. It made a huge difference in noise and keeping the floor cool.

I will send photos if someone tells me how to get them from Picasa.

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When I did carpets I used Dyna mat for sound control and a layer of Reflectix to help reduce the heat. Both make a big difference.

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I did a carpet install in my truck as well as a layer of Dynamat. I did not glue the carpet down but the dynamat made a huge difference in sound/ insulation. It is pretty pricey though. The carpet was supposed to be an exact fit but did take some trimming and wrestling to get it in place.

See my install here...

http://daysofexploration.blogspot.com/2013/05/seventh.html

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Company on e-bay sells custom molded carpets that are supposed to fit perfectly. :)

little pricy, but should be an easy install.

Remember, your cab is a 1978 or earlier, even if your model year is 1979 or later.

Fred,

What do you mean by this? If I have a 1993 unit is not the cab/truck/frame/etc also 1993?

Still trying to learn the basics...and i have yet to pick up the MH.

MikeMc

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most often the cab/truck/frame are from the prior year to the actual motor-home build ie 1992 toyota with a 1993 home portion and thus sold as 1993.sometimes if the truck is built early in the calender year the motor-home is the same year.

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Fred,

What do you mean by this? If I have a 1993 unit is not the cab/truck/frame/etc also 1993?

Still trying to learn the basics...and i have yet to pick up the MH.

MikeMc

This was directed towards op. His cab has 4 headlights which make it a 1978 or earlier cab. The actual coach may have been put on in 1979. Which would make it a '79. But mechanically it's a 1978. The two cabs are totally different body styles.

It's only with the older homes this happens.

Rule of thumb: 4 headlights is '78 or earlier.

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Fred,

What do you mean by this? If I have a 1993 unit is not the cab/truck/frame/etc also 1993?

Still trying to learn the basics...and i have yet to pick up the MH.

MikeMc

The best thing to do is to check the TOYOTA VIN and the doorpost sticker for the manufacturing date of the Toyota C&C. Where I am, the DMV (or equal) goes by the VIN only. That will determine the 'Year' they print on your Title and Registration. They could care less when the coach was built.

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Hope I can clarify the 1978/79 issue for our readers.

Around July 1979 Toyota changed their cab and chassis to a new style with redesigned cab. The telltale difference being the number of headlights. (2 vs 4).

For example, in January 1979, your new Toyota pickup would still have 4 headlights, being no changes were made to the cab and drivetrain. So technically you would have what is known a an "early production" 1979.

When ordering things such as carpets or grills, it's easier to refer to your cab as a 1978. Some companies don't realize the difference and will sell you the later production part.

Unfortunately, there were no VIN's back then. The motorhome manufacturers assigned their own. So to be safe, consider any 1979/80 motorhome with 4 headlights to have 1978 mechanicals.

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"VINs were first used in 1954. From 1954 to 1981, there was no accepted standard for these numbers, so different manufacturers used different formats."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number

VIN, Serial Number, call it what you want. I think I can safely assume there's something marked on a Title of a '77 Toyota that can be deciphered.

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"VINs were first used in 1954. From 1954 to 1981, there was no accepted standard for these numbers, so different manufacturers used different formats."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number

VIN, Serial Number, call it what you want. I think I can safely assume there's something marked on a Title of a '77 Toyota that can be deciphered.

Derek,

Your a great IT guy. My 1979 only has the Toyota chassis I'd plate under the hood. Champion motorhomes (Canadian :) ) assigned their own registration number to my toy.

Most aftermarket sellers are not going to be concerned with your VIN.

You tell them you have a 1979 Toyota motorhome, they will send you parts for a 1979. If it's the older style, you'll just be sending the parts back.

My solution is much simpler. I've learned from my mistakes. Some suppliers will ask for a mfg. date, but not many. :)

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Well, assuming you're looking for mechanical or electrical parts for the Toyota portion, I can save you even more time. Don't even bother mentioning that it's for a Motorhome!

I'm familiar with cars from a 'transition' year. I've a '74 MGB GT in the driveway. There were actually 3 variations of the '74. :)

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Derek,

Your splitting hairs.

If it makes you feel better, we won't mention "motorhome".

I think I got my point across.

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I got my cab carpet from www.stockinteriors.com. I would recommend you also get it with extra padding. In addition, I installed B Quiet for sound deadening. It is almost equivalent to Dyna Mat but costs much less. I read quantified test comparisons of the two products and they are quite comparable.

After installing the B Quiet, I put down a layer of foil insulation with a foil core.

Before my upgrade, I measured the temperature (last summer) of the transmission tunnel and it was over 107 degrees. The cab was being super heated without the upgrade.

After the upgrade, the A/C now cools the cab quite well and the noise level is significantly less.

If you're going to go to all the trouble of replacing your carpet, I recommend doing the insulation and sound upgrades at the same time.

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If you're going to go to all the trouble of replacing your carpet, I recommend doing the insulation and sound upgrades at the same time.

Also, spend a bit of extra time making sure that all grommets and plugs in the firewall are in place to keep noise, heat and drafts out of the cab.

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Lesson from my install...

Consider using a hole saw to cut openings for floor bolts and seatbelt bolts. (cutting the pad and carpet)

Test on a scrap first.

I installed a carpet sized for an extended cab. I'd do it that way again.

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  • 10 months later...

Hi Toyohome!

I wrote this post way back that you responded to and I am finally making the upgrade with my tax return. I have a couple questions.
How much B Quiet did you need? I'm looking at the website and they offer 50sq ft. Also curious if you went for the Ultimate or the Extreme (the two different products they sell). Looks like the Ultimate is thicker and more comparable to Dynamite.
What about the foil liner? Could you tell me more about this? Do you have any links to where I could get more information about it?
I'm also looking at Stock Interiors for the carpet. I'd like to get the extended cab to have the extra for the transfer into the camper, but it doesn't look like they have it for my year (1977). Did you get any of the upgrades (ultra-plush cut pile or mass backing?) If so (or not) what your feedback on those.
I really appreciate your input!
Best,
Mischa
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50 sq. ft. will do the cab and doors no problem. Make sure you read the descriptions of absorber and damper. They are different things.

Extreme is asphalt base and it may outgas fumes in hot weather for a while

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I decided against any noise insulation, other than the "mass backing" from Stock Interiors. A- because of the complaints of asphalt smell in the car from the cheaper stuff, and B- because of the work involved.

Knowing what I know now I'll include C- you're driving a 1977 truck with a 1977 camper on it. Noise-proof the floor of the truck cab all you want. Spend $3,000 on NASA material meant keep re-entry noise to 0. You still have the doors and windows of the old truck, and the fiberglass beer can sitting on it. It's just gonna be noisy.

No extra or extended cab available in US Toyotas until 1984, and I'm not sure if that will fit your truck right, since the body style did change twice between 77-84. I ordered the "correct" carpet for my 78, and it fits just fine. There was enough slack left over in the back to go up the metal back of the cab to where it meets the camper floor.

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  • 7 months later...

Hey Y'all,

Well this was a long time ago that I started this, but I have finished the project! It was a pretty big pain (mostly because the carpet didn't fit exactly), but I made it work. I have the recap with lots of pictures on my blog as well as some other little upgrades I have done. Check it out and let me know what you think!

https://pontxadventures.wordpress.com/2015/11/02/home-improvements/

-Mischa

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