Jump to content

Water Tank 1985 Dolphin


Karen_Eck

Recommended Posts

I recently bought a 1985 Toyota Dolphin and the ad said everything works. That's what I wanted - ready to go. I'm no mechanic/builder, very low on funds and I am exhausted and just want to drive off into the forest. With the winter weather, it was impossible to check it all out and he lied, lied, lied.

So anyway, been cleaning and fixing stuff up. I got someone to help me check out the water system. Right off you could hear/see a leak under the bench seat. So I got it dried out, got the seat out of there, got the guy back. We fixed two leaks in the tubing by the water pump and water heater. Then tested it out again and the water tank, or he called it a water bladder was leaking big time.

So what is this thing called? Tank or bladder, or both? Where do I find a replacement? And approx what is the cost? Maybe I can find a used one? Well ,here I am in the Eastern Oregon boondocks where traffic is a dream and the shopping sucks. Boise, ID is two hours SE.

And it's going to be 13 degrees here again - do I have to worry about water in the lines?

The heater works - and that's all that really matters right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may have both. A water tank holds water (duh) and is usually in the 20 gal + range. SOME units have a accumulator bladder which is a small 2 or 3 qt size chamber. It would be mounted after the water pump. What it does is to smooth out the pump run pulses when you are running very small amounts of water to a sink.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently bought a 1985 Toyota Dolphin and the ad said everything works. That's what I wanted - ready to go. I'm no mechanic/builder, very low on funds and I am exhausted and just want to drive off into the forest. With the winter weather, it was impossible to check it all out and he lied, lied, lied.

So anyway, been cleaning and fixing stuff up. I got someone to help me check out the water system. Right off you could hear/see a leak under the bench seat. So I got it dried out, got the seat out of there, got the guy back. We fixed two leaks in the tubing by the water pump and water heater. Then tested it out again and the water tank, or he called it a water bladder was leaking big time.

So what is this thing called? Tank or bladder, or both? Where do I find a replacement? And approx what is the cost? Maybe I can find a used one? Well ,here I am in the Eastern Oregon boondocks where traffic is a dream and the shopping sucks. Boise, ID is two hours SE.

And it's going to be 13 degrees here again - do I have to worry about water in the lines?

The heater works - and that's all that really matters right now.

If it's below freezing during the day yes you have to worry about water in the lines, hot water tank, pump, dump tanks and fresh water tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was the MH properly winterized before you bought it? If it dropped below freezing with water in the system it could have broken after you bought it. I bought mine in August and the system had water in it. I was lucky and found this site before winter and learned how to properly winterize the unit or I would have had many repairs in the spring. I would have missed several drain locations. You need to get all of the water out of the system before more damage takes place.

I wish you luck in getting the repairs completed and many years of fun with your new to you Toyhouse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I think the owner died and it passed down to his kids and the guy who sold it to me - the owner was his uncle. He said the kid's that inheirited it - their only passion was couch surfing. So I don't know if that was the truth or if it was properly winterized. I watched some videos on that, but they were newer units. Talked about putting motorhome antifreeze in the lines, using a compressor with a regulator to lower the typical pressure and blowing out the lines first. REALLY? Antifreeze in your water system? Or is that just for newer models?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not regular antifreeze. You have to buy RV water system antifreeze. It will rinse clean and not leave any toxins in your water. No showering or drinking it though but you will be able to use the toilet. All drinking and dish washing and personal cleaning water must be kept in containers inside your rv. If you do add it make sure you run it through the lines and water heater so all systems are protected. If not besides blowing out the lines make sure you drain the water heater from the outside too. Otherwise there will be water left inside it that can freeze.

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RV's take the pink stuff non toxic but you would never know it to taste it. Same stuff is used in solar collectors also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right, I pulled the water heater anode rod. Where do I find this way to blow out the water lines? Service station? Buy my own regulator? Or forget that and just get some RV antifreeze?

I guess I will have to get out a tarp and a flashlight and look under the RV to determine the tank situation. Is changing out the tank a do-it-yourself project? Do you have to have a lift? Might be able to find a couple of guys to help me.

The heater works, and that is all that matters the most right now. But I'm not sure about the condition of the propane tank. I have to drive 45 min or more over wintery mountain passes to get it certified - and I guess it has to be empty for that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And thanks for all the answers so far - big steep learning curve here, but I think I will enjoy my toyhome wilderness adventures with or without working water lines. Much easier than setting up a tent and then having the ATM rally race up and down your road all week. Will be much easier to simply find another spot.

The frig works on electricity, but not on propane. I will not be at campgrounds. Trying to get away from cells phones, WiFi, and scented people and things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Derek,

I think the motor home sat for about 5 years without being used. I don't know if the owner winterized it before he died. The "again" part is about putting water through the lines the last few days, finding the leaks, fixing a couple of them, and now don't want MORE damage. I just couldn't wait for spring to find out if there were leaks, if it was working, could I finally have a place to take a shower (even if measley) instead of only a bathtub ... LOL. And it appears that propane is not getting to the water heater.

I'm trying to determine what needs to be fixed so I can go with the most important first. The shop in town "only" wanted $180 to tell me that. 4 new tires on the back sucked up most of my repair fund. Lots of RV repair places in La Grande, but only 1 in Baker City, OR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While talking about that water system, you should also be told that you should buy and use a water pressure regulator to put on the hose between a faucet and your RV hookup. The regulator will only cost about $8 at Walmart. Some campgrounds and city water systems have way too much pressure and can damage your onboard water lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Karen,

Does the system work on city water only --- in other words, if you hook up a garden hose (using the $8 regulator as suggested by Bob C in the previous post) does the water work at the sinks and toilet? And are there leaks in this mode?

Fred

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently bought a 1985 Toyota Dolphin and the ad said everything works. That's what I wanted - ready to go. I'm no mechanic/builder, very low on funds and I am exhausted and just want to drive off into the forest. With the winter weather, it was impossible to check it all out and he lied, lied, lied.

So anyway, been cleaning and fixing stuff up. I got someone to help me check out the water system. Right off you could hear/see a leak under the bench seat. So I got it dried out, got the seat out of there, got the guy back. We fixed two leaks in the tubing by the water pump and water heater. Then tested it out again and the water tank, or he called it a water bladder was leaking big time.

So what is this thing called? Tank or bladder, or both? Where do I find a replacement? And approx what is the cost? Maybe I can find a used one? Well ,here I am in the Eastern Oregon boondocks where traffic is a dream and the shopping sucks. Boise, ID is two hours SE.

And it's going to be 13 degrees here again - do I have to worry about water in the lines?

The heater works - and that's all that really matters right now.

Karen,

The "bladder" thing... I think you may be describing an expansion tank. I looked online at HDepot and they cost 30-80 bucks. IMO, they are not needed in our Dolphins - let's ask for a second opinion on that. Maybe it could be eliminated if it is not working correctly. Its purpose is to let the water pump have fewer times turning on and off, and have a smoother flow of water at the faucet.

by chance, could you post a photo of the tank, and the water pump which should be in close proximity?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what I was talking about when I wrote about the bladder thingie. I did not want to use technical term with a new owner.

Many of us have these installed to cut down on the water running is short spurts.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/water-pump-tank.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Karen,

Checking the weather report, it looks like Baker City is still freezing at night. Come on Spring!!

Anyway... here's some tips that may or may not be applicable at this point.

You can make a cocktail of rock salt and water to put in the black and grey water tanks to avoid freezing.

The Black and grey tanks are prolly made of ABS, and so are the drain pipes. One cheap redneck way of repairing ABS pipes or tanks can be multiple layers of ABS glue (hardware store) and strips of denim (yer basic blue jeans). Just lay it on one layer at a time like making an old fashioned cast (remember the broken arm cast back in the day?)

JB makes an epoxy called "Water Weld" It's a two-part solid epoxy putty. Use it to plug a hole in drain pipe. It dries solid underwater and forms a permanent bond. I would lightly hand sand around the crack first to give the epoxy some rough surface to grip on. The tanks flex and expand/contract, so over time you should check for leaks periodically.

Last summer a guy had a leak in his fresh water tank. This tank is not ABS. Found the leak cleaned it with alcohol and applied multiple coats of Plumbers Goop. It bonded with the tank and is strong but not hard... it flexes. This was over 4 thousand miles ago and many many tank fulls of fill and drain. This stuff works well! He has also used JB Waterweld on other things too and it also is great stuff!

These are not all my ideas... I stole most of them from better "handymen" than me. But I fix leaks.

Stay warm and dry!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The coach manufactures often kind of built other stuff on top of fresh water tanks making it an arduous task to replace. Most RV have low point drains in the water lines and the tanks, opening them first goes a long way towards getting the water out including a nice drive around the neighborhood with the drains and taps open. The water pump will need a shot of antifreeze so either removing the suction hose and sucking up some antifreeze or dump some in the fresh tank (least desirable but it won’t kill you). The RV stores sell an adaptor that have a tire type fitting you can attach to the city water inlet to allow you to pressurize the water system limit the pressure to <40 psi There are many tutorials on line about winterizing RV’s. What kind of propane tank do you have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the valve on the LP tank turned on and is there LP in the tank? Sometimes it is the simple things that get overlooked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm picking up my 1985 Dolphin 500 series May 2nd without a clue on how anything works as the owner never used it either the year she had it. I know the lp valve is bad as I turn it on gas leaks out but only in opening it so should I replace the whole valve that screws into the tank and keep the regulator or is there one somewhere else? My water pump works and I didn't see any leaks but I did notice in the little access panel where the electrical Rv hook up cord is there are 2 water valves and I believe drains but one is capped off, not connected so what is that all about? By the way any RV rallys in Calif. this summer?

Tom in San Jose,Ca.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I'd love to know how to drain the fresh H2O tank on the 1986 Escaper I just bought. All I see is a hose piece coming off of tank under rig. What does that do? Want to clean out tank b4 I venture out. Thank you. Ann

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there should be a little most often white fawcet on the outside to drain the tank. if gone broke off cost maybe to dollors two replace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Investigate around the tank itself. Locate the hose that you motioned and see it there is some kind of shutoff valve. My 84 Dolphin had a drain spigot located outside on the wall close to the tank. My 94 Warrior has drain valves located inside close to the tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...