Adjusted my valves. Wow!

[ShaggyRV]

After having a bit of rough idle and knowing everything else was covered I checked my valve clearances yesterday. Well all of my valves were too tight! I checked before loosening the lock nut and I couldn't get an .008 in the exhaust valves when they are set to .011 cold. That was all I needed to know. I proceeded to attempt to put .011 feeler gauge in the remaining exhaust valves and it wouldn't fit. same with the intakes at .007 I adjusted all the valves and replaced the gaskets and wow! Idles smooth and runs fantastic! I can definitely feel more power and better throttle response. For those of you who are reluctant to do this I can assure you it is easy and well worth the effort.

[Bob C]

I picked up my gasket kit from Napa yesterday. After reading about how easy it was from a could of people, I decided that it was time to get it done.

In June, I am heading from Wisconsin through the Badlands, Black Hills, Devils Tower, Big Horn Mtns, Yellowstone, Craters of the Moon, Glacier, Banff, Jasper and home. I am trying to get everything done this fall because I know that in the spring I am always busy and pressed for time.

My grandkids (& 2 kids) are going with us.

[waiter]

GREAT - Its fairly easy to do on the 4 banger, just make sure you have the gasket and the four rubbers hold down bolt gaskets.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Gary_M]

There should be a sticky for this procedure.

[Bob C]

I did the valve adjustment today. I was totally impressed with how easy it was. I have adjusted valves before that you could hardly get at, but the 22RE is very easy. Everything is easy to get at and Toyota did a good job at engineering everything. I love the tubular valve cover gasket, it's pretty hard to mess it up.

I could not believe what a difference it made in the idle on my Toyhouse. I got a very smooth idle and the throttle response when you hit the gas seems quicker. I plan on a short drive tomorrow to see if I can tell a difference on the road.

[ShaggyRV]

I did the valve adjustment today. I was totally impressed with how easy it was. I have adjusted valves before that you could hardly get at, but the 22RE is very easy. Everything is easy to get at and Toyota did a good job at engineering everything. I love the tubular valve cover gasket, it's pretty hard to mess it up.

I could not believe what a difference it made in the idle on my Toyhouse. I got a very smooth idle and the throttle response when you hit the gas seems quicker. I plan on a short drive tomorrow to see if I can tell a difference on the road.

How far out of adjustment were they? Mine were all too tight. Looks like my head may have been off in the past. I suspect the PO did something.

[Gary_M]

Was the tublar gaskest installed dry? The manual and no one mentions here putting a sealant or light coating of oil on the gasket for a better seal.

[waiter]

When I did mine, (80,000 miles), the exhausts valves had ZERO clearance, they were all tight and were probably opening the exhaust slightly.. This is very bad as if it continues uncorrected, it will burn the exhaust valves. The exhaust valve MUST close entirely and sit firmly in the seat in order to transfer heat away from the valve and into the head.

There is no need for a sealant on the valve cover gasket, Its actually a oval shapped o-ring that fits in a groove on the valve cover.

On my 22RE, I ordered the gasket kit, comes with two new 1/2 moons, four new bolt hold down seals, and the valve cover gasket. Replace all these.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Bob C]

I had zero clearance on every valve. I did not have to turn the adjuster screw much to get clearance so I hope that the exhaust valves did not get burnt.

I talked to a mechanic and he said to put the gasket in dry. I did replace the new half moons, gasket, and rubber bolt donuts. I did not have any leaks before doing the valves and hope that I don't now.

[linda s]

Weird, My valves always get loose not tighter.

Linda S

[fred heath]

Most valves have to be set "hot", with the engine at normal operating temperature.

I suspect those with little or no valve clearance either had a cool engine or the adjusting screw moved downward when the locknut was tightened. Rechecking the clearance after final tightening is very important.

On my 20R intake is .008 and exhaust .012. Not a large gap to start with.

[WME]

On my Toy the valve clearance decreased as time went on. As easy as it is to check them hot I did it every 2 years regardless of mileage. Mechanic gloves protect your hands from the heat.

[zero]

Most valves have to be set "hot", with the engine at normal operating temperature.

I suspect those with little or no valve clearance either had a cool engine or the adjusting screw moved downward when the locknut was tightened. Rechecking the clearance after final tightening is very important.

On my 20R intake is .008 and exhaust .012. Not a large gap to start with.

On many engines I've had to work on - I"m not sure how a person would do that (set hot). Factory specs are often given for a cold engine and they have already taken expansion of parts into account.

Toyota is one of the few auto makers (of older rigs) that sometimes gives valve-lash specs cold and/or hot depending on the engine type. It may have something to do with if a cylinder head is cast-iron or aluminum. The latter has a higher expansion rate. The way Toyota goes it is a good idea and I wish more companies gave hot valve-lash specs.

Year's back Chevy big-block V8s (396s and 454s) with solid-lifters were known for self-tightening due to the adjuster-screws in the rock-arms moving from harmonics.

Now adays when valves get too tight in an older engine it is often due to valve-seat recession. This can be normal, or due to unleaded gas, or to a recent valve job where the OEM nitride surface was removed from the valves by refacing them.

Valve-lash specs given by engine-makers are often a compromise with hopes of getting the valve-timing near correct on a mass produced engine. Racers often adjust lash along with a degree wheel to get their valve timing dead-on.

Many years ago when Ford Model Ts were involved in racing - there was contest between two mind-sets. One mechanic claimed proper valve timing was the most important and a valve lash was NOT the best way to adjust. The competing mechanic claims exact lash was most important in order to get the most valve lift. In this contest, the valve-timing guy won with the most powerful Model T.

I had two interesting valve-lash episodes lately.

#1 - My farmer neighbor had a head gasket leaking on his four-cylinder diesel 6610 Ford tractor. A very simple conventional push-rod engine. It ran perfect but had a small coolant leak. He put the new head gasket on himself. When all done - the tractor barely ran. Had many 1/2 the power it usually had. He brought it to my shop to check the injection pump and injectors. Ends up his valve lash was the only problem. When he put the new head-gasket on -it was a lot thicker then the original one. That resulted in the head being further away from the camshaft and the valves much looser. Note - he did not own a feeler gauge and did not re-adjust his valves. He figured if it was OK with the old gasket, it would be fine with the new one. Nope. A simple valve adjustment brought it back to life.

#2 - Had a John Deere 1010 with a gas four cylinder engine with conventional pushrods and rocker-arms. It had been recently rebuilt. Tested on a dyno and ran great. After using it for two weeks steady - maybe 60-80 hours in total (equiv to 2500 miles) - it started having trouble starting when cold. Still ran perfect once running. Finally one day it could not be coaxed to start. Reluctantly - I ran a compression check on it. I say "reluctantly" because it had been recently rebuilt. Ends up it had around 20 PSI on two cylinders and 60 on the other. Low all around and not even. Ends up none of the exhaust valves were closing. Way too tight In just the equivalent of 2500 miles - the valves receded that much! Mostly because it had just had a valve job with the valves being refaced and the seats reground. Doing this leaves a sort of "virgin" unhardened valve seat that has to work harden on its own. When the engine was new - the valve seats were "induction" hardened with heat. I readjusted the valve-lash and it was fine ever since. Been run 600 hours since and the valves have not receded any further.

Note that unlike the Deere - Toyota valve seats are usually hard-steel inserts, but the valves themselves are only nitrided in many engines. So if someone does a valve job by resurfacing the valves - I suppose some premature wear can occur afterwards - especially with unleaded gasoline.

[Gary_M]

The 1988 Truck Manual has both hot and cold adjustments. Maintenance section is hot and the Engine Mechnicial section, cylinder head removal cold. Same clearence specs, intake 0.008, exaust 0.012

[Bob C]

I did the valve adjustment while the engine was at full operating temp. I had to handle the valve cover very carefully but only got a minor burn when I touched the radiator with the inside of my forearm. It did not take all that long to complete the valve adjustment. I did recheck the clearance after tightening the locknut. On two valves, I had to readjust and got it right on the second try, then rechecked again.

I took the RV into town today to see if I could feel any difference in the way it drove. I think I could but it may have been wishful thinking. I do know that the engine idles very smoothly now, something it has not done in the 2 years that I have owned it.

[ShaggyRV]

Well I did mine cold. Read in a lot of places here and in other forums to use .007 and .011 cold. I know its way better than it was before I started.

[fred heath]

Well I did mine cold. Read in a lot of places here and in other forums to use .007 and .011 cold. I know its way better than it was before I started.

Keep in mind that metal "expands" when heated effectively reducing your gap. It makes more sense to go with .009 and .013 for a cold setting. This will get you closer to factory specs. I've always set mine hot. Cold would be good for initial settings, but hot is more accurate.

[zero]

Well I did mine cold. Read in a lot of places here and in other forums to use .007 and .011 cold. I know its way better than it was before I started.

On some engines - heat opens up the gap. All depends which parts expand more.

Some people think the purpose of proper valve lash it to dimenish valve "chatter." It's main purpose it to provide proper valve timing. But regardless - when done and engine is hot - there must be some clearance or valves start to burn.

For the engines that Toyota gives hot and cold specs - the cold are set .001 tighter and tend to gain clearance when the engine warms up.

Toyota gives hot specs only for some engines and cold specs for others. I suspect much depends if it's a pushrod engine, overhead cam, iron or aluminum head.

Metal expands but in some cases it results in little overall change. With a pushrod engine - pushrods getting longer results in tighter valves. A cylinder-head expanding results in looser valves. With an over-head cam engine - head thickness and distance from block is not a factor.

Toyota 8R-C engines are set .007" and .013" cold or .008" and .014" hot.

12R and 20R only come with hot specs - .008" and .014"

22R and 22RE is .008" and .012" hot

[waiter]

I got the cold .007 and .011 numbers from the ToyotaNation site. This seems to be the accepted numbers from their group and has been checked by their members when hot and cold.

Although I have not personally verified that the cold settings (.007 - & .011) result in the published hot settings (.008 & .012) I will report that this cured my idle and drivability problems. I do not have valve train noise (to loose) when cold or hot.

I would say, if you can, set them hot, but if you can't, IMHO, the cold setting are a good alternate.

.009 & .013 will probably work just fine, but as that clearance increases, so does valve train noise. If the clearance gets to large, damage and wear to the valve stem and rocker will result as the rocker now starts acting like a hammer.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[straygoose]

I did the valve adjustment while the engine was at full operating temp. I had to handle the valve cover very carefully but only got a minor burn when I touched the radiator with the inside of my forearm. It did not take all that long to complete the valve adjustment. I did recheck the clearance after tightening the locknut. On two valves, I had to readjust and got it right on the second try, then rechecked again.

I took the RV into town today to see if I could feel any difference in the way it drove. I think I could but it may have been wishful thinking. I do know that the engine idles very smoothly now, something it has not done in the 2 years that I have owned it.

OK, so like how long is "not all that long?" Is this something I can do in a friend's driveway on a Saturday morning, or something more involved.

After all new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor I'm getting the same rough idle in P and in D, and I see no bad vacuum lines, so it seems this is the next step in the process. I looked at the video in the other thread from a fw weeks ago, but didn't really get much out of it.

Trouble is, I'm about 1800 miles from home. If I was at home I wouldn't mind if she was down for a few days because I had her taken apart, but I'm on the road working and the Goose is my house and transpo while I'm out here.

I am pretty handy, and I have a big 'ol box of Craftsmans I like to flash every now and then, but I've only worked on a valve train once, and that was back about thirty years ago in high school. So, with all that going on, I'm just a little aprehensive about taking the top off her motor.

Anyone have a better video or pics of the procedure?

Also, she only seems to rough idle when it is either very warm and humid, or when it's raining. That was the reason why I replaced the plugs, wires and cap. I figured that there was moisture getting into the ignition system, most likely in the distributor cap. But that didn't fix the problem, either.

When it's cool and dry she doesn't seem to have a problem. Of course, I may be mistakes on that, since I am rarely in a place with cool and dry conditions, but I have seemed to notice that this was the case.

And man, when it's humid or wet, does she start hard. Usually takes me about four tries to start her, and a couple of those times she will fire, and lurch to a stop. Feels like the motor is trying to rip itself free of the mounts. Usually on the third or fourth try whe will start and run real rough, sometimes on what feels like three cylinders, for as long as ten minutes or so 'til she warms. I have pulled up the hood and observed her motor shaking pretty violently when she's running like this.

Is it possible that there is something else wrong? Maybe a sensor is bad or something?

One more thing. If I let it go for now, how likely is it that I would burn a valve on the long drive home next month? I've made this drive three times with her running funky like this, but I'm hesitant to try a fourth. She runs great out on the road, it's just the morning start-ups that she has trouble with.

[waiter]

Should take about 30 - 45 minutes . make sure you have new gaskets and seals before you start (Valve cover gasket, two 1/2 moons, four rubber seals), you can get these at any auto parts store. Get a can of carb cleaner to clean the gasket surface areas. Also wouln't hurt to squirt some in all the openings where you remove vacuum hoses.

Also make sure you have the feeler gauges.

I recommend pulling all the plugs, it makes it easier to rotate the engine to ZERO TDC by hand.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[straygoose]

Should take about 30 - 45 minutes . make sure you have new gaskets and seals before you start (Valve cover gasket, two 1/2 moons, four rubber seals), you can get these at any auto parts store. Get a can of carb cleaner to clean the gasket surface areas. Also wouln't hurt to squirt some in all the openings where you remove vacuum hoses.

Also make sure you have the feeler gauges.

I recommend pulling all the plugs, it makes it easier to rotate the engine to ZERO TDC by hand.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

OK, thanks John. I think I'm going to do it this weekend. I hope this cures the problem, because she runs good once she's hot, but sometimes I think she wants to tear herself apart trying to warm up. It's really startling the way she lurches on the first crankup.

Any Idea if this muggy/rainy scenario might mean anything? I swear when its like 50 and dry outside she starts and runs like a dream. Even when its 80 and dry she's fine. It's weird.

I'm gonna hop over to YouTube and see if I can find a better vid.

[straygoose]

BTW, I think I read somewhere that you can crank the engine by hand, using the alternator bolt to get it to
TDC. Is that right?

[waiter]

If the plugs are out, yes. line up the timing marks on the crank pully to 0 TDC

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Derek up North]

Didn't read the Duncan Racing page, but the first thought to my mind with rough running when humid is plug wires with degraded insulation. When it's dry and running smoothly, try spraying water on the plug wires with an old Windex bottle. In the dark you might even see sparks dancing about.

[straygoose]

Thanks Karin. But I have the 22RE so I'm fuel injected. I'm not sure you can adjust injectors. Or at least I don't know how to do it. I suspect that would be a computer thing. I suppose I could increase the air flow with a different airbox, but I'm not sure.

Thanks again John. After looking around for info, this seems pretty straightforward now. Hopefully it will cure the problem.

BTW...I only have 44,000 miles on mine. I don't have a book to tell me when valve lash should be done, but isn't 44K kind of early for an adjustment like that? Just wondering.

[Derek up North]

BTW...I only have 44,000 miles on mine. I don't have a book to tell me when valve lash should be done, but isn't 44K kind of early for an adjustment like that? Just wondering.

Toyota's Maintenance Schedule calls for every 30k miles and 36 months. No idea why they spec 36 months. It's not as though they go out of adjustment while it's sitting parked!

[straygoose]

Didn't read the Duncan Racing page, but the first thought to my mind with rough running when humid is plug wires with degraded insulation. When it's dry and running smoothly, try spraying water on the plug wires with an old Windex bottle. In the dark you might even see sparks dancing about.

I have brand new plugs and qires, installed two weekends ago. And the old plugs were fine, nice chocolate brown, but they were Champions so I replaced them with NGKs because I've been told that Toys only seem to run right with either OEM or NGK.

That's another thing that bothers me. She runs rough like that but the plugs look beautiful, like she's never had a single misfire. One of the first things I thought of was she was running rich.

Could a leaky injector maybe, just maybe, be causing this?

[straygoose]

Toyota's Maintenance Schedule calls for every 30k miles and 36 months. No idea why they spec 36 months. It's not as though they go out of adjustment while it's sitting parked!

OK so she's overdue anyway. I'll just go ahead and take her hat off and do the adjustments.

Gotta run and go get some gaskets and a feeler gage before I go to work tonight. Thanks and talk to y'all later! You were great!

[Bob C]

I had set aside the entire morning for getting the engine to temp, removing everything that needed to be removed, valve adjustment, reassembly, and test drive. I was done with the valves in about 30 minutes and it took another 15 minutes to get the cover back on, distributer cap reinstalled and check to make sure that everything was good. I fired it up less than 1 hour after I started. I have driven it 150 miles since doing the valves and it sure seemed to pull better on the hills.

I was camping with friends over Labor Day and when I started it up to leave on Monday, I did not touch the gas pedal, just cranked it over and it fired up just like it should. Before doing the valves, I had to push on the gas a bit to get it to run until it warmed up a little.

My friend, who had an '85 Toyota pickup said that his never ran that smooth when it was new.

I will be doing the valve adjustment before it starts to run bad next time.

[waiter]

Bob C; Another happy, satisfied customer.

I'll bet the majority of these have never had the valves adjusted, and they are all overdue.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[waiter]

Goose, I sent my injectors out for overhaul, they cleaned, inspected, new filters and new gaskets and rubbers. I think it was $20 each.

NOTE - I hadn't started the truck in about 8 weeks, Yesterday I started it with the remote starter, it started on the second attempt. :-)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[ShaggyRV]

Just do it! Its really easy and will most likely help. Have you checked your idle speed and engine timing? I would look at those if you haven't yet. Also if you ate running your A/C during these hot periods you may have an issue with your IAC. It bumps your engine RPMs up about 200 rpm I think when A/C is switched on. Good luck!

[straygoose]

Bob C; Another happy, satisfied customer. :detective2:I'll bet the majority of these have never had the valves adjusted, and they are all overdue. JOhn Mc88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Yeah, I was all set to do it yesterday then work changed my sked, lol. It figures. I'm gonna have to do it next Saturday. Gotta couple other minor things to do too. And now that I think about it, I might just go ahead and replace vacuum hoses while I'm at it.

[Gary_M]

Bringing back an old thread from the dead for good review...

I did my first valve adjustment today and like the others was not hard at all. Yeah getting the vacum hoses out of the way was the hardest. My exhaust valves were tight, all of them.

One thing to check while its open, (22RE), check the plastic guides on the timing chain to make sure the tabs are there. Especially on the right side where the chain tensioner is. Hard to see in this picture but this where to look.

After adjustment took it for a spin. Noticed much better idling at idle, hmmm to say it in other words, being stopped the idle was much smoother.

As others here proclaimed in this thread, a must do.

Note: Though the 88 service manual doesn't mention it in the regular maintenance section, in the cylinder head removal section they mention applying seal packing to the half circluar plugs (half moon gaskets). I installed mine dry so we'll monitor and see.