ShaggyRV

Two RV's would be nice but it's not in the cards for me right now.

Put my 85 GranVille up for sale in the classified section. She has been a great rig and will be missed. I have to upsize a bit so she needs to go to a good home. I think I have priced her right for a quick sale. Anyhow If you're interested let me know! Paul

Sounds like an awesome trip! I have put nearly 20K miles on my 1985 22RE Granville in the last two summers. Martinsburg, WV to Key West and back. Myrtle beach 3 times. Jacksonville Florida area and back 3 times and many weekend jaunts. These little rigs are just plain tough. I have done lots of work on mine to make it reliable though. My first trip to Key West and back was done after flushing Diff oil. Engine oil and a fan clutch only. Since then I have replaced a lot more. Love these little rigs. Our/s is named Granny BTW.

I have an 85 Granville with 22RE and auto. I have taken it on a couple of trips in West Virginia on some 6-9% grades. On the worst ones I just drop the selector to 2nd gear and keep my speed at 35-40mph. She climbs the mountains no problem. I'm just in the slow lane with the big rigs. Not sure the V6 will be too much better but I don't know. These engines are tough and will last if taken care of!

I just took my 85 Granville to Hagerstown spring works in Maryland because I was sagging. it was worse on drivers side. They took my springs apart and re arched them. Two leafs added to drivers side and one to the passenger side. So far I'm very happy with the results. Cost me $350

Well I love Toyotas!! But I love Chevys too! To have more room and nicer amenities sounds like an upgrade to me. details to follow!

I'm right behind you on this. I need a bigger unit. Thinking of a class c on a chevy chassis.

I see a lot of items replaced and no mention of replacing the fuel filter?

Check the fluid level on perfectly flat level ground with the engine running cold. It should be in between the 2 lower marks. After warm up it should be between the 2 upper marks. if there is little to nothing on the dipstick cold that could be your problem.

I'm always taking mine somewhere. Lately I've been going up to Sleepy Creek WMA here in Berkeley county. WV. It's $10 a night. Just an outhouse style bathroom and no water or electric but I love it there! Today I'm going to Chestnut Hill park near Morgantown WV for the weekend. Here is a pic of the RV at Sleepy Creek.

The stove, oven and fridge are fine. I don't use the hot water heater as it was bypassed when I bought the rig. I verified the furnace doing the same thing today. Verified the gas is leaking from the furnace. Found a melted wire. something shorted in there. Anyhow I turned off the valve for the furnace and no more leak. Further troubleshooting to follow when I get the time.

Well thank you so far to all who have replied. I'm going in with my multimeter to start checking things out. I'll let you guys know what I find. BTW I have been working on electronics for over 35 years. I just wanted to see if anybody had some past experience with this issue. I can figure it out though. Wish me luck!

I think the leak is the gas valve not properly shutting in the furnace. I thought I made that clear in my post. Anyhow I have seen many start up problems with these furnaces. mine seems to be the first shut down process problem.

OK. So my furnace lights no problem. A new issue has popped up. When it gets to the set temp inside the thermostat clicks. this used to cause the flame to shut off then the fan would run to purge out any unburned gas. then after a few seconds the fan would shut off. Well now the flame stays burning and when the fan stops the flame keeps going then slowly goes away. Its like the gas valve is not shutting properly. The flame eventually goes out but it takes a bit. What made me see this was happening was that last night I was using the furnace for a little while in the driveway. Shut off thermostat and left. Today I go to the RV and smell gas. I turn off the gas for awhile and let it air out. I then turned and the gas and lit the furnace. This is when I noticed the abnormal behavior. After it shut off I started smelling gas again. I'm thinking gas valve or main board. Can I test the valve?

I went camping last week and it got a little cool 40's at night. My furnace usually works pretty well but my house battery was getting a bit weak. It wouldn't light so I started the engine. No joy. When I got home I plugged into shore power and it didn't light. I took my battery to get it tested as it was vintage 2006. It was bad. I replaced the battery and now it lights every time. I know my battery is getting charged when plugged in or engine running but the bad battery caused my problem. Just something to think about.

Calling all Onan experts. My generator ran fine until I tried to start it this spring. It is not a carb issue. That is clean from when I first bought it. Its a new problem. No spark! What should I be looking for when checking out the coil? I have found replacement coils on line for about 60 bucks. I just want to test the coil first. If the coil checks out then it could be the magneto? I'm sure some of you out there can help with what you have learned.

Well like I said. I'm doing it!!!

There are a lot of Nay Sayers on here when it comes to this subject. I am going to replace my clutch fan with an electric setup a lot of guys are running on 22re trucks. I have replaced everything including water pump, 2 thermostats, a new 2row which I replaced with a new 3 row. 3 different clutch fans and my temps get way hotter than I like when climbing hills or sustained highway speeds. I have one clutch fan that stays engaged all the time and my temps are fine with it climbing even on the hottest days. The problem with that one is its killing MPG and eating power. since my truck runs cooler at highway speeds and climbing hills with that fan clutch I know its an airflow issue. I am going to put the 2 speed ford Taurus setup on mine. I will report on it when I'm done. I plan to have a switch in the cab to engage the high speed when I need it. The lower regular speed will be setup with a thermostat control. I posted about this on here before and had some smart asses say post pics when you ruin your engine. I am doing it and even if it doesn't work well I'm not stupid enough to ruin my engine over it!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Scat-Motorhome-RV-/161100794411?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25825b0a2b&item=161100794411&pt=RVs_Campers Found this on Ebay. Looks kinda cool! The one pic looks like they took it up to pretty high altitude.

Just do it! Its really easy and will most likely help. Have you checked your idle speed and engine timing? I would look at those if you haven't yet. Also if you ate running your A/C during these hot periods you may have an issue with your IAC. It bumps your engine RPMs up about 200 rpm I think when A/C is switched on. Good luck!

Well I did mine cold. Read in a lot of places here and in other forums to use .007 and .011 cold. I know its way better than it was before I started.

I wish I had a 4X4 Sunrader!

How far out of adjustment were they? Mine were all too tight. Looks like my head may have been off in the past. I suspect the PO did something.

There is a complete 1KZ with tranny on Ebay right now.

Maybe I should post an after pic. here is the finished product. I painted it top and bottom with urethane paint. I used a can and a half. after I made my cuts I saturated the ends where the cuts were made to help seal out moisture. I did not spring for marine grade plywood and the aluminum flashing box around it was shot. I could have made a new box but my impression is it hold water in that gets in from above.