tlava Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Hi Folks-- Nissan v6: on a recent trip, the engine temp ran a little below half on hwy (at speeds of 65-70), but would rise a bit over half idling in traffic jams, etc; at that point, the fan clutch appeared to kick in, and would bring the temp back down to below half-way mark on gauge, while still at idle--is this sort of fluctuation normal? The RV does have a new radiator, new fan clutch, and new thermo. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Doesn't sound like anything I'd worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Yes John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Hi Thanks folks! I'm used to the gauges not moving much, but maybe this one just "sensitive"? I was concerned since temps were only in 70s (this frip was fr.FL back to NY), so I was wondering if there would be much diff in warmer weather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Everything is working according to plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRV Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 What temp T stat did you put in it? Most have a 195 deg from the factory. I always change to a 180deg. I get a noticable drop on th guage and plenty of heat in the winter. If I lived way up north I might run a 195 in the winter. just my 2 cents. 15 Deg is noticable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Actually, Toyota specs a 190F t'stat for the 22-RE and a 180F for the V6. I don't know what Nissan recommends for their V6. With (relatively) modern fuel injection, I'd hesitate before switching from a 190F to a 180F t'stat. It might fool your computer into thinking you're running cool and provide a richer mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRV Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Actually, Toyota specs a 190F t'stat for the 22-RE and a 180F for the V6. I don't know what Nissan recommends for their V6. With (relatively) modern fuel injection, I'd hesitate before switching from a 190F to a 180F t'stat. It might fool your computer into thinking you're running cool and provide a richer mixture. I saw this one coming! I agree with you to a certain extent. However I have never had any noticable adverse effects from doing this and I did not research what they put in the 22RE as factory. it's still 10 deg cooler which might give the poster a warm fuzzy feeling when the guage reads a little lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Without a calibrated temperature gauge, we'll never know if the water temperature isn't high enough to have the thermostat (either 180F or 190F) wide open anyway. If they're running wide open, then the thermostat temperature rating won't have any effect (unless you're up North like me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Nissan thermostat 170 OEM 180 alternate LS Actually, Toyota specs a 190F t'stat for the 22-RE and a 180F for the V6. I don't know what Nissan recommends for their V6. With (relatively) modern fuel injection, I'd hesitate before switching from a 190F to a 180F t'stat. It might fool your computer into thinking you're running cool and provide a richer mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks. Couldn't find it in my Nissan Chilton's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Hi Folks-- I was told 190 for the v6--that's how it is listed. apparently; at least for the yr. I have; confirmed by a Nissan mech. So not sure I should ask for a 170. Seems to be some diff of opinion, here--where did you see 170, Linda? Aaron claims 190...and it's a B--- to replace! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 My 22rE is 180 OEM . On cold days the gauge hangs around 1/3. When its short sleeve outside it moves up to 1/2 to 2/3, and moves around a little. On hot days (95deg) sitting in traffic, with A/c running, I have seen it just below the red. Its about 2/3 driving (turn off the A/C) On hard climbs, (1st gear 25mph, 2nd gear 35 mph) I never seen any sign of running hot, but the fan does cycle a lot (which I think its set too cool) I've also never seen any signs of running hot on hard straight pulls (55mph floored gas peddle into strong headwinds). John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Stock temp gauges are not real linier and as Derek said cool engines use more fuel. Most engines these days normally run as hot as 210, pressurized coolant absorbs more BTU's. Before I would experiment I would check the temp with a good thermometer stock gauges usually are not really hot until they are in the red zone they do that so people don't freak out if it's above half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 My 22rE is 180 OEM . My 190/180 figures are from the '93 FSM. Perhaps the earlier FSM has a different spec for the 22-RE. Certainly no intention to misinform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Well my factory service manual says 155 degrees. The only temps I could find at rock auto were 170 as OEM and 180 as Alternative. I have since found a 160 degree one from Beck Arnley. I would suggest you go into a dealer and have them show you the correct temps on their computer. Not tell you, show you. I find that many service reps don't have a clue LS Temps for a d21 with the 24z engine are 180 or 190. You have the vg30 engine Hi Folks-- I was told 190 for the v6--that's how it is listed. apparently; at least for the yr. I have; confirmed by a Nissan mech. So not sure I should ask for a 170. Seems to be some diff of opinion, here--where did you see 170, Linda? Aaron claims 190...and it's a B--- to replace! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Wow. I've never even heard of a 155F thermostat. 160F (Summer) is the lowest I recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Don't know what to say. Book is from Nissan Motor Co. Printed in Japan in 1987. Thermostat opening temp 68.5 C/ 155 F on page clearly marked VG30i LS Wow. I've never even heard of a 155F thermostat. 160F (Summer) is the lowest I recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Well my factory service manual says 155 degrees. The only temps I could find at rock auto were 170 as OEM and 180 as Alternative. I have since found a 160 degree one from Beck Arnley. I would suggest you go into a dealer and have them show you the correct temps on their computer. Not tell you, show you. I find that many service reps don't have a clue LS Temps for a d21 with the 24z engine are 180 or 190. You have the vg30 engine hmmm--so right now I'm playing chicken with the engine temp? I should replace the 190 w/a 170 (since that is the lowest I'll find)? Once the engine heats up enough to open the thermo, though, whether 190 or 170, shouldn't that bring the temp rapidly back down? (i.e., wouldn't it be a moot point, then, which thermo ?); are are we saying the temp gauge is calibrated for the thermo opening at 170, so it it doesn't open till 190, then the gauge will be reading hotter? or maybe the engine isn't getting hot enough to open the thermo before the fan clutch kicks in? How does the fan clutch figure into all this, since I assume it is calibrated to tighten its hold at a certain temp--but is that 170? 190? something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 hmmm--so right now I'm playing chicken with the engine temp? I should replace the 190 w/a 170 (since that is the lowest I'll find)? Once the engine heats up enough to open the thermo, though, whether 190 or 170, shouldn't that bring the temp rapidly back down? (i.e., wouldn't it be a moot point, then, which thermo ?); are are we saying the temp gauge is calibrated for the thermo opening at 170, so it it doesn't open till 190, then the gauge will be reading hotter? or maybe the engine isn't getting hot enough to open the thermo before the fan clutch kicks in? How does the fan clutch figure into all this, since I assume it is calibrated to tighten its hold at a certain temp--but is that 170? 190? something else? to answer part of your question about the fan clutch, when the water temp rises in your radiator the air becomes hotter flowing through it and in turn the hotter the fan clutch become the more it locks up and causes the fan clutch to work. you can change the viscosity on one to make it more efficient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 hmmm--so right now I'm playing chicken with the engine temp? I should replace the 190 w/a 170 (since that is the lowest I'll find)? Once the engine heats up enough to open the thermo, though, whether 190 or 170, shouldn't that bring the temp rapidly back down? (i.e., wouldn't it be a moot point, then, which thermo ?); are are we saying the temp gauge is calibrated for the thermo opening at 170, so it it doesn't open till 190, then the gauge will be reading hotter? or maybe the engine isn't getting hot enough to open the thermo before the fan clutch kicks in? How does the fan clutch figure into all this, since I assume it is calibrated to tighten its hold at a certain temp--but is that 170? 190? something else? I would replace the thermostat with whatever the original design OEM specifies. You have two devices attempting to control the engine temperature, the coolant thermostat and the fan clutch thermostat. These are generally matched up by the manufacture, so if you change the coolant thermostat to something other than OEM, then all bets are off (ALSO - this can screw up the fuel mixture controls as its also based on engine temperature) You should not see rapid movement in temperature, If you do, this is a symptom of something wrong. The thermostat does a good job of holding a temperature, the thermostat doesn't slam open, then slam closed, (unless its sticking) it opens/closes in a vernier manner. A 170 will start to open at 170, but probably isn't opened all the way until the temp is getting close to 200 - 210. The fan clutch is filled with a certian type of oil that changes viscosity with temp. I believe some of the clutches you can change the oil, (and therefore change the operating range) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Most thermostats are marked with degrees C stamped on them. 155 degrees? why bother mine's at 155 in about a mile! Wonder what their reasoning for that was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 this is getting really interesting and puzzling. SO if I go to NAPA, and ask for a fan clutch for a v6 Nissan, and a thermo. for the same vehicle, am I getting ones that match? OR do I have to specify 170 for both? also, where do a find reliabel OEM specs--Lind's shop manual says 155, but assuming that is not available, then I should get matching set at 170? but if this is already not OEM, if 155 is right, then I'm already screwing up fuel mixture, and will have a rich run no matter what? (BTW--I not the fan clutch has a spiral copper temp sensor like a regular old-style home thermo--I assumed that was what determined how much the clutch tightened its hold, and not oil inside--am I wrong? or is it a combo? I would replace the thermostat with whatever the original design OEM specifies. You have two devices attempting to control the engine temperature, the coolant thermostat and the fan clutch thermostat. These are generally matched up by the manufacture, so if you change the coolant thermostat to something other than OEM, then all bets are off (ALSO - this can screw up the fuel mixture controls as its also based on engine temperature) You should not see rapid movement in temperature, If you do, this is a symptom of something wrong. The thermostat does a good job of holding a temperature, the thermostat doesn't slam open, then slam closed, (unless its sticking) it opens/closes in a vernier manner. A 170 will start to open at 170, but probably isn't opened all the way until the temp is getting close to 200 - 210. The fan clutch is filled with a certian type of oil that changes viscosity with temp. I believe some of the clutches you can change the oil, (and therefore change the operating range) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Am I right in assuming that if the thermo is rated at a higher temp than OEM specs rec, that the engine will run rich (since the compu thinks the engine is cooler than it really is)? Also still not sure what to do--change the fan clutch and thermo again? will folks at the parts store actually be able to match these up (esp the clutch--will the temp of the clutch actaully be noted in their system)? I looked at my orig clutch, and there is no degree marked on it; the only marks, other than the part #, are "04" stamped on the inner part near the coil, and "T3" on the outer section, neither of which, I'm assuming, coorelate to a temp rating... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I don't know about the spring type fan clutch, I believe you are correct, the spring is actually a bi-thermal spring that changes clutch engagement. I don't know what the OEM thermostat is for your vehicle. For the 1988 Toyota 22RE, its 185F Will it impact fuel mixture, Yes, Maybe (particularly if its to cold). How much, ???? Don't know. Generally, manufactures went to hotter temperatures to get emissions down, However, with higher temperatures also aggravates risk of pre-ignition. (pinging) As for the fan. I know the Toyota has a couple different oil clutches, some can be changed, some cannot. There is nothing in my 1988 Toyota FSM about overhauling/replacing fan clutch fluid, it just says look for signs of leakage and replace if leaking, However, When I look on the internet, I see where Toyota does use different oils for different temperatures, and that some of the clutches can be changed, and some cannot. Personally, I don't like the way mine cycles, it seems like it cuts in too early in an attempt to hold temperature. but other than annoying me, it does a good job of holding temp. Back to your original concerns from post #1. It seems like your system is working correctly at idle. However I would anticipate that when your driving down the road, you do not see the needle move significantly or quickly like it does at idle. If you do, you may have a problem. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Yes, on road it holds just below half--that has been in outside temps in the 70s--today a bit lower, but it's in 50s... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Mine also varies a little with outside temperature, On cool days (Below 50) it hangs around 1/3, on warm days (above 80) it'll hang around 2/3, it doesn't fluctuate a lot as long as I'm moving. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 This whole thread is "much ado about nothing" Things are working as designed. Half scale means not much, you need a calabrated gauge to see what temps your talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 This ^ if it ain't broke don't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Yes it is. The Nissan VG30i is considered by many to be as bullet proof as the Toyota 22re. I was on a Nissan site a couple of days ago and one of the members there has a v6 dually Nissan with 355,000 miles on it and has never had anything done but routine maintance. This whole thread is "much ado about nothing" Things are working as designed. Half scale means not much, you need a calabrated gauge to see what temps your talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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