MAXXFabrication

I have a couple full floater axles, what gear ratio are you looking for? I am located in st.louis

Rebuild your axle for cheap. New toyota bearings, a used 3rd member any gear choice you want and new seals. No reason to "reinvent the wheel" your axle is a hell of alot stronger than peIople think, a toyota diff. can handle upwards of 400-450 hp.... You arent going to approach point of failure with an RV, ever. While "only a Toyota" dually axle, its full floater design is overbuilt for a toy RV. Think about it like this, get a dana 60 full floater and its bearings (which is what is the MOST important item for load carrying capabilities) are just about the same size. Plus Toyota bearings are known for their superior heat treating over other bearings. So why spend 3000 dollars to build something that you wont be able to buy off the shelf replacement parts for if you are on the road? That will only give you more down time if something fails/wearsout/breaks. Brake lines will need to be custom- both hydraulic and emergency brake lines, driveshaft would be a custom hybrid, 2 spares will be needed. In my opinion for under 500 you can rebuild and regear an axle you have never heard of falure of other than lack of proper maintenance or abuse.

A handy tip to all trying this (cone washers are on 4wd front locking hubs as well) DO NOT BEAT ON THE EDGE TO POP THEM OFF - sorry if I offend anyone on this subject but you can ruin the seal the flange/hub bolts to. This is how to remove them when "frozen" in place, (similar as above advice using a 14mm socket) and it will work every time, get a 5/8s or larger BRASS drift (a brass rod) then place drift againt stud as if you were trying to drive it in deeper and tap progressively harder and it will pop off and be kept in place by the drift. Whacking the side of that flange will dent /deform and possibly crack it. The cone washer is an excellent design and does a great job. It is what transfers all the torque from your axleshaft to that massive brake drum and dual tires to get you rolling. Just those six studs and 2 pins transfer all that torque to all that weight.....see why you dont want to dirrectly whack the flange?

Yes, "v6" third members as they are more commonly reffered to are totally different. Found in only turbo 4cyl or v6 trucks only (1 tons dually cab n chassis too) the often mentioned 4runner v6 third is different as well in the fact the gears are not interchangable but the differential itself (not carrier/third member) is

I am having a hard time with the forum not locking my computer up it is running so slow, anyone else?

the later Toyota diesels available in canda and overseas like the 1 KZT or 1 KZTE would be the most logical choice, after making an adapter for any other diesel or trying to fit one in would only be a nightmare. JDM (japanese domestic manufactured) engines are CHEAP to come by, really. the om606 is way too heavy as well as the 4BT.

Hey Greg, PM me an address so I can send mine via snail mail please. old school- thats how I roll!!

yep, your converter lives under your feet as well as the engine heat gets blown back to the firewall from the engine fan so it is normal to get that hot

I parked my 4runner with a treestand on the roof and wedged my truck into a covered parking spot. I had to deflate tires to get the treestand off then re inflate to pull out (obviously)

I have to add my 2 cents on the rebuilt/used engine discussion. a used engine from a obviously wrecked truck or car (Toyota) is usually more reliable than most every rebuild I have ever seen. I have yet to see any rebuild go for 300000 miles plus where a factory built toyota engine will do that every time with proper maintenance. They were put together under much more scrutiny than shop putting together mix and match parts (cranks, connecting rods, pistons etc) yes they will reuse pistons with just new rings if the cylinder bore isnt damaged. I believe Toyota had a higher standard in production of engine components than 99% of the aftermarket companys making pistons, bearings, etc. would you put aftermarket bearings in your front hubs or toyota bearings if you had the choice? the choice is obvious. if you find a wrecked car with 100000 miles or so on it and do your homework with looking at maintenance records you can score an engine better than most every rebuild out there. just because it was wrecked doesnt mean it is "dumpster diving" I challenge anyone to show me a rebuild with 200,000 on it since it was redone

The 20R and 22R stroke are both identical, the bore is the only difference period. they have the same connecting rods in each engine, the reason the compression ratio raises is that the 20R head is 81cc's and the 22R head is 83cc's which will raise compression around 1.5 the 20R head had open combustion chambers and the 22R head had a swirl inducing chamber for cleaner emissions. As for putting a cam in an RV, there is a power increase with a trade of in erratic/poor idle- not something I would want from and RV. they have enough of their own vibrations here is some schooling on the heads and engine internals so there is no confusion. note the 3rd from last sentence, "all 20R- 22R-22RE use the same connecting rods and crankshafts" 1975 - 1980 20R Cylinder Head Round Intake Port Round Exhaust Port 80/81 C.C. Chamber Intake Valve Diameter 43mm Exhaust Valve Diameter 35mm 1981 - 1984 22R Cylinder Head Square Intake Port Round Exhaust Port 82/83 C.C. Chamber Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm 1985 - 1995 22R-22RE Cylinder Head Square Intake Port Pear Shape Exhaust Port 52/54 C.C. Combustion Chamber 82/83 C.C. Chamber (Turbo) Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm Engine Block Identification 1975 - 1980 20R Block Deck Height 11.280\" Stock Bore 88.5mm - 3.484\" Maximum Over Bore 90.0mm - 3.544\" 1981 - 1984 22R Block Deck Height 11.280\" Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\" Maximum Over Bore (Cast Piston) 93.0mm - 3.662\" (+.040\" Over) Big Bore Forged Piston Kit 94.0mm - 3.701\" (+.080\" Over) 1985 - 1995 22R-22RE \"Laser Block\" Deck Height 11.090\" Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\" Maximum Over Bore (Cast Piston) 93.0mm - 3.6662\" (+.040\") Big Bore Forged Piston Kit 94.0mm - 3.701\" (+.080\" Over) All Toyota 20R - 22R - 22RE engines use the same crankshaft and connecting rods. To accommodate the different deck heights, Toyota changed the compression height (piston pin location). Crankshaft (Forged) Stroke All 20R - 22R - 22RE 89mm - 3.5039\" Rod Journal 2.0861 to 2.086\" (standard) Main Journal 2.3614 to 2.13622\" (standard) Connecting Rod (Forged) Center to center length 5.830\"

I am a cheap skate too!!! LOL, but the $ the site has saved me and the work I have gotten from members is worth me donating for sure. will I get a special red star next to my name or get extra private message storage like other forums too!? (I am kidding!!!, that is one of the sketchy ways other forums get you to "donate")

I ordered a set, thanks Linda S!!! they werent set in stone with price- I am a shop so they took 15% off for me so it wasnt all that bad.

I bought my Sunrader partially gutted and one of the things missing is the toilet, are these still available (same brand) or is there an alternative that will bolt into place of it? it has the lid that keeps shower water out i believe. It sure will be much nicer than the 5 gallon bucket/bag combo I have now!!! lol

thanks, Linda had forwarded that to me earlier. I am trying to get info on the one in Arkansas also. What I can tell you is about the body, I am wanting to use the newer cab style (89-95) to put the 4runner front clip on it -it is more aerodynamic and also has euro molded glass headlights, cleaner grille, nice clean bumper and valance combo (valance is ABS plastic and can take abuse without deforming) and I will also use the scooped hood that I make (fiberglass mold) through my fabrication company. the whole vehicle/camper will be painted Toyota super white # 040. I already have a cab to use if I get an older body style, I can swap the camper portion onto the newer frame/cab I can just add frame rails that are long enough and do some frame reinforcement/gussets/bracketry that should have been done in the first place (my 83 has cracked 2 of the crossmembers- will post up pics in a different thread about this issue later) There is a goal that I will be achieving with this build, when I "let the cat out of the bag" on drivetrain I will wait awhile before I tell the goal of what I am doing it for. and it has nothing to do with proving anyone wrong about any swaps either.