tlava

anyone know who purchased the V6 Bandit in WI? wondering how trip back to Cali was/is... schadenfreude... ha!

t-stat: Toy OEM part #9091603070 from Olathe Toyota Parts Dept. 1-800-516-1455 https://parts.olathetoyota.com $33.90 + $10.00 shipping (I think I got the water pump from them as well but can't find that information)--they will ask for a VIN and then tell you it is not the right (stock) part so you have to let them know it is a mod. Rad: CSF 3 core (Linda's suggestion) from Auto Parts Warehouse (info@cs.autopartswarehouse.com); 800-913-6027 $257.40 after discount + FREE SHIPPING Not sure whether these things made a big diff or not, since the water pump bearing was shot, but both were recommended by others

interesting discussion and suggestions. Curious--were is this water valve, exactly, and should it be full open?

Happy NY all-- Well, after replacing the radiator (with a 3-core), the t-stat (with a dual-hole) and the water pump, I have had no temp fluctuation--needle stayed steady below half on recent trip NY to FL, cruising 60-65--and no detecable coolant loss--I think the pump may have been the culprit with the needle fluctuation, an apparently the neg. result of the pressure test was accurate, so, knock on my head, now HG problems apparently. Question: I installed an aux fan in front of the rad. Should it be wired to draw air from the outside, blowing it through the radiator, or to draw air from the engine compartment through the radiator and blow it out? I know the answer seem obvious (first way), but my concern is, would this be competing with the main fan? Is the main fan drawing cool air through the radiator from outside, or blowing the other direction, and should both fans be circulating air in the same direction?

Hi All-- radiator and water pump etc are new and yes the system was burped and no water in oil, but I assume it is the exhaust side that could be weak--I was just wondering how fool proof the pressure test is, as compared to the chemical test; no one around here seems to have a gas analyzer anymore....

Had a mechanic check the HC--he did a pressure test, and claims that the HC is OK--but coolant has dropped significantly in the reserve tank--must be going somewhere, right? Should I drive confidently or might the HC still be weak and not show up with only a pressure test? Hate to get on the road with 2 dogs and 2 cats and have a breakdown... I already told my wife to fly...

Hi all thanks again for all the replies; really appreciate that/ \\ Just to clarify a few things: SO it would take 2 people just to get the head out clean? it is possible that there would be water in the oil and not be visible? It has only 75k, and has been well maintained, I believe the pressure test would provide same results as the chemical test, or would both be necessary? I was thinking of having the head rebuilt by Engbldrs to hi-pro specs (OS valves and RV street cam): Ted cliams I can get about a 2-3 percent increase in HP with this, and even more if I add a 2" exhast. Should I bother, or just let a shop stick on a new HG and be done w/it. as for a rebuild--if I ever need that, I was thinking of replacing with a later model 22re ('85 or later) rather than an '84, since the later ones are more powerful and less problematic as far as parts, etc, and Ted claims that it is all the same as for reinstallation..... your thoughts?

Yours is a 20R or 22R... yes, VC not heavy, just a tad awkward putting it back on to avoid scraping towers. Yes I guess I should get a shop manual from Toyota? I looked today; no water in oil, but the white smoke starts after a couple minutes, and the res. tank is down from near the full mark, where I topped it after replacing radiator, etc, and to the low mark, so it seems the coolant going somewhere, unless normal for awhile after changing out rad, water pump, etc? I've only driven it about 10 miles, since, but have let it idle for long periods (maybe half an hour)

THanks--I did try to smell it, but just smells like exhaust to my untrained nose.... no water in the oil, at least not the last time I checked. Same happened with my Nissan--never did get oil in the water until the last, when it blew me off road.... As for the timing chain, on a previous thead it was noted that that is more or less a separate job, and lot more $$--almost twice as much, according to some--than just doing the HG--so trying to avoid that one... though it's true you're part way there to get to the head.... If I dare try to pull it myself--once the bolts are out and other stuff off, could there be problems lifting it off? it was a little cumbersome just removing the valve cover, so I'm imagining the head might be a bit tough.. Also wondering if sealant has to go all around, or just around the timing chain housing but the head gasket put on dry--I seem to recall using hi-temp sealant or gasket maker last time I did this ...(not on this engine)-- and what the torque specs are, what the torque sequence is, etc. If anyone know a good link to a step-by-step, with necessary specs, much appreciated The '73 Ford PU was a piece of cake--could almost stand inside the engine compartment, as I recall... What I'd really like to do is convert a mini cooper wagon to an RV... thanks again folks for all your responses.

Just seemed to shake the vehicle a bit when cold. I just did a valve adjust, and didn't notice this; the shaking for the first time last time I started it, but only while cold. White smoke, yes--not a lot of it, but noticeable with pressure on the pedal after warm up. Then the drawdown on the reserve coolant tank. Maybe I should get the chemical test to be sure.... I'm going to check again tomorrow; the symptoms are very similar to those I had with My Nissan V6 SR, and eventually (about 2k later) the HG blew completely. Also found out I need a 110AH battery to power the Atwood furnace I installed--well, at 30,000 BTU, overkill, I know, but a good deal, I thought, on GL at $200 shipping included--except that now I have to spend $260 on the battery! c'est la vie.....

Thanks! I went onto a couple OEM sites, and could not find head bolts listed---not sure how you do it, Linda! In any case, maybe I don't have to worry about the bolts... If I have my current head rebuilt Hi-Pro (I mean my Toy engine head) by engbldrs, the gaskets they send should be as good as the dealer OEM, right? I'm worried about having a mechanic unfamiliar with the 22 RE work on it, since there are "hidden" fasteners--the 12 MM in the oil under the cam timing gear, a long allen bolt through the T-stat housing, apparently some hard-to-get-to tubes on brackets at the back of the head that have to be removed to get the head off, and lining up of the notched distributor gear at 11:00 rather than 12:00, etc. Are my fears unfounded? I'd like to find a mechanic even within 100 miles or so of me of is familiar with the old Toy engines, but so far no leads... I haven't actually totally blown the gasket yet I don't think, no water in the oil but lots of other signs--coolant level somewhat down in res tank, sounds a bit like a diesel when first starting, some white smoke and a lot of moisture dripping after warm up, and a slight stutter (maybe unrelated), though otherwise runs well.. Rather than getting on the road to FL and risking a complete blow, I would like to pre-empt, and would consider tackling it myself though the only head I've done in past were a Volvo Penta marine engine (80s) and a 73 Ford straight six--totally different worlds...and been awhile, and too much I don't know, too much stuff to come off, etc--+ torque specs, etc, and I don't even have a torque wrench anymore and besides it is getting cold! Anyone out there near me who would be willing to work on this let me know--I'd be glad to serve as helper and of course pay for your time, etc.

Oops--Tod claims these head bolts (link above) are too short: "That head bolt part number is Rock Products I believe, if so, those bolts fit the lower deck 1985 to 1995 22R and 22RE engines only, they are too short for the early engine design with a serious risk of stripping out if used." Anyone know of a source for pre-85 ('84, in my case) 22 RE head bolts?

I found some from a company called Low Range Offroad: they claim the head bolts will fit the early model 22 RE (which I guess is the same head as the 22 R for that year?); I was worried because Ted said the old "long style" head bolts were no longer available... so hopefully these are the right ones. link if interested: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/ter-hbk900.html

Hi All-- Been emailing Ted and engbldrs: apparently it is OK to reuse the 22 RE head bolts: the only concerns about stretching are with the "3VZE, any using torque to yield" according to him.

Hi Folks-- Can anyone suggest a good mechanic (resasonable, familiar with the 22 REs, etc) in the NY, North Jersey, Eastern PA area? I'm within 50 miles west of Kingston, NY, about the same east of Oneonta, maybe 80 from Albany and about 90 from Binghamton and 150 from NYC Also a good machine shop? I'm thinking of getting a Hi-Pro head rebuild kit from Engnblder.com; apparently, there are no new castings for the earlier (pre-'85) 22 REs, so has to be done by a machine shop...

Thanks folks-- It's an '84 22 RE, so no carb; I think yes the air is out. If a sticking valve, then even after the adjustment, it might still be?

Hey, JD, can you give me the names of those shops, including the one that does the custom work, and esp the one you where you moonlight? Thanks!

Shoot--wish I'd know about the block drain. As it is, put all back together with I'm afraid some of old coolant still in block. Well, looks like same stuff (Toy red), and in any case, everything looked pretty clean. couple Qs: If I'm seeing some clear drops of water/liquid from exhaust even after warm up (after driving for a bit), is this normal condensation in system, or could this suggest HC leakage? I still have a slight skip/miss, actually more like a slight recurring stumble, even after new plugs regapped and timing set twice, but otherwise seems to run OK--still maybe a timing issue? since putting in new 3-core rad, new dual-hole 195 degree T-stat, and new wp, seems to run cooler--needle stays below half, but more than 1/4: should it be running cooler w/all this, or is that about right? Also put in a 10" aux. fan (manually switched)--sounds cool, but not sure how much diff it will make... Haven't tested on more than about a 15 minute run in hills thus far, so not sure what a day on the Interstate will show...

Hi Linda--thanks for the tip--JD--just sent you a message, so hopefully we'll connect...

Hey where in NY rate where I am Andes west of Kingston sixty bucks to seventy five an hr ...

Hi Folks Some vids of the engine idling. The one labeled "2.3 is the engine when cold. "4.3," after it has begun to warm, you can hear an irregular miss/skip (have to listed closely). "6.3" shows smoke out the tail pipe under normal idle--this smoke is constant, no matter how long the engine idles, though I haven't had the RV on the road yet to know if it clears up; "11.3" shows smoke revving the engine. "9.3" is I think the sound of the engine after it warms to operation temp

Hi All On the 22RE ('84). Does replacing the head gasket mean might-as-well replace the timing chain, labor-wise? (i.e., does the timing cover have to come off to do the heads) Also, when you get a sec, can you take a look at my last post on "serious miss/skip" and tell me what you think? I will try posting a few brief vids. under that topic heading now....

Hi All-- THanks for verification--but what does this sound like to you: cold start--idles fine when engine STARTS to warm--needle just on or near the "C"--very rough engine gets warmer--operating temp the miss/skip seems to mostly clear up always a bit of white smoke, but when I rev the engine--very noticeable.... I'm wondering if the radiator flush stuff I put in didn't all come out and could have somehow damaged the head gasket? It was odd that no matter how long I flushed the radiator with water, while engine running and heater full on, the water would run clear, then, when I shut of the engine and let the radiator drain down, toward the end, red coolant would wash out again; I tried this a few times--the water would be running clear; I would shut down and let the radiator drain, and the last few pints quarts (or pints, not sure) would always come out red...or at least pinkish, getting more red in the last bit... so thinking back I'm wondering if the system didn't completely drain and residual flush could have causes a problem... I will try to post some videos of engine running--

OK-- what do you think: I re-gapped plugs to approx.032, readjusted valves on a "warm" engine--loosened all just a bit to get a fairly easy slide with what I felt to be a little drag on the gauge idle is OK but still a skip/miss every few secs--so it runs more or less the way it did before I changed everything. I hear a very slight ticking if I listen close to v. cover, but doesn't seem like enough to readjust? also noticed that the whole time the engine was idling, there was some white smoke in the exhaust--and it idled for a long while, maybe 45 min. We've had cool wet weather, and I haven't run car for a while, so maybe just normal moisture? It also took a while for the hot air to kick in with the heater full on and fan on high, but eventually it did get hot and some "burping" (bubbles) out the neck of the radiator before it settled down. could the miss/skip still be valve related? or I'm wondering if the white smoke could indicate a beginning head gasket issue--could that cause a skip? I tried turning the big screw on the EFI housing, but it didn't help... Also, I bought a new 3-core radiator, and now the old orig Toy cap doesn't fit--the neck on the new radiator is quite a bit smaller. How do I get the right cap for this, with the correct pressure, etc? Does the cap pressure have to be compatible only with the radiator, or is is a function of both the engine and the radiator? Also, since I wasn't able to replace the cap after burping the radiator, will I have to repeat the process again once I get a cap? another radiator Q: I also installed a supplemental elec fan (as pusher), but I damaged a few of the thin copper fins between the cores while installing, pushing the plastic mounting rods through--seems inevitable--will this cause any problems?

the previous plugs were gapped wide. The new ones I put in came pre-gapped at .025--but would a tight gap account for a rough idle/miss? I just did the valve adjust, so that's what I'm wondering--I followed the diagram: I believe it indicated to adjust exhaust 1 & 3 and intake 1 & 2 with piston #1 at TDC, then rotate 360 and do intake 3, 4 and exhaust 2 and 4 (set the exhaust to .011 cold) I didn't change the intake valves since they seemed OK if I got the exhaust a bit too tight, could that account for the skips/misses? I'm thinking I could check them hot, then let the engine cool and see what the diff is, then try to adjust cold again.