campergal Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Campergal here again....Embarrassed to report we can't get our 1988 Toyota Dolphin home! We've spent hundreds on tows so far. New brakes, calipers, lines bled, new brake cable still locks up after a few miles and using the brake lightly. The unit did sit for many years. I need help you all. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Where is it that you're stranded and where are you trying to get to? Maybe someone can point you to a repair facility. When the brakes lock up, how do you get them unlocked? Does sitting for a while unlock them? You mentioned lots of parts being changed. No mention of the flexible brake hoses. Do you know which brake is locking? Front? Rear? Left? Right? There will be a difference in the temperature of the wheel on the corner that's locking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Where is it that you're stranded and where are you trying to get to? Maybe someone can point you to a repair facility. When the brakes lock up, how do you get them unlocked? Does sitting for a while unlock them? You mentioned lots of parts being changed. No mention of the flexible brake hoses. Do you know which brake is locking? Front? Rear? Left? Right? There will be a difference in the temperature of the wheel on the corner that's locking. was thinking same thing... sticky rear shoe; rusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 How do they tow it? That may explain where the problem lies. I'm going to say master cylinder if it's front and rear either just plain bad or maladjusted at the booster push rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Is it just one wheel locking up? If it just the back wheels or just the front wheels, it could be master cylinder not releasing. (sticking valves inside) I assume that when the cylinders were replaced, the lines were bleed (What cylinders were replaced, all 4, just one wheel, ???) ALSO - Did this problem always exist or did it start after someone replaced brakes shoes (Brakes reassembled incorrectly and adjusters are actually tightening brakes when you drive forward instead of backing up) How do you get the brakes to release after they lock up??? JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Oops. Just noticed in the 'Subject' that it's the front brakes. If it's both front brakes at the same time it would seem to indicate a master cylinder problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I hope that you get your problems straightne out and can start enjoying your Toy soon. You will love it when you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I would also guess that its your Master Cylinder. The Master Cylinder piston is not releasing, which is what releases the brake fuild pressure. The piston is either sticking due to dirty fuild or the return spring is worn out. Dennis B... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 or rear proportioning valve not working at all and causing all the fluid/pressure to only go to the front, unless the rears are leaking out the pressure when applying the brakes causing only the fronts to lock up(would be an obvious mess of fluid and loss in the master cylinders resiv.)- the pressure is going somewhere other than to the rear drums it sounds like. unless your rears arent working at all. emergency case scenario, you ca learn how to use the Ebrake (if it is still working) in conjunction with applying brakes to stop safely until you can get somewhere and have it repaired or home- just dont pull it tight in the locking position (clicking) turn it slightly to keep it from locking in a set place and use only enough pressure to slow the rear, not lock it up. this is only to get you somewhere to repair it or home where the mechanics wont gouge you. where are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 where are you located? I think they're heading for Salem, Oregon. No idea of the current location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seattleguy Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Campergal here again....Embarrassed to report we can't get our 1988 Toyota Dolphin home! We've spent hundreds on tows so far. New brakes, calipers, lines bled, new brake cable still locks up after a few miles and using the brake lightly. The unit did sit for many years. I need help you all. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Help! I see from another of your posts you may be in Salem, OR. My mechanic is in Woodburn, OR (~17 miles). They did master cylinders/brakes, complete exhaust/manifold, timing chain, and a lot of other work on my Toy (and our cars for years). I'd highly recommend taking it to them - they generally don't charge a diagnostic fee and do great work. And join AAA if you haven't already - worth it for the towing! I had to have mine towed 3x when I first got it - one was 98 miles and would have been $900 if I didn't have AAA RV Plus. Woodburn Automotive Repair Center 555 North Pacific Highway, Woodburn, OR 97071 (503) 981-8247 ‎ Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Maybe it still has some air in the brakes somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 Campergal here again....Embarrassed to report we can't get our 1988 Toyota Dolphin home! We've spent hundreds on tows so far. New brakes, calipers, lines bled, new brake cable still locks up after a few miles and using the brake lightly. The unit did sit for many years. I need help you all. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Help! I would jack up each wheel one at a time to see if you can determine which wheel(s) are the culprit(s). My guess is that you have either a brake line (probably a flexible line) that has deteriorated and needs to be replaced or a front brake caliper that is frozen. The calipers can sometimes be broken free by removing the 2 bolts holding the calipers on and then while one person pushes the brake pedals followed by using a large C clamp to force the puck back in. Note that the part that holds the brake pads is supposed to float -if one pad is worn down significantly more then the other I would suspect some binding. The rear brakes are more difficult to work on - they require pulling the axle - not hard to do once you get the cone washers off after you pull the bolts. after the axle is slid out you can take off the wheel bearing which then you get access to the brake drum. Note the axle can be pulled with the wheels on the ground but you will have to jack it up anyway to get the tires off. There are seals involved with the rear axles which should be changed when you are in there. The wheel bearings are isolated from the rear end fluid. My guess is that it will be a front wheel causing problems, Another way to diagnose is if it will drive go a ways then use you hand to measure heat near the braking parts - if one is a lot hotter then it's mate you have a lead. If I had any doubts about the brakes, I would carefully inspect and probably replace both of the front flexible brake lines, cycle the front pucks in & puck (as described above), lubricate the slides so the pad assembly is moving freely and replace all the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes until new fluid comes out at all 5 bleed valves (you also have one at the perportioning valve) For the vehicle to be non driveable would require a hard lockup on a wheel. I am guessing if you where towed you had the front end up so that tells you something. Good luck - links to maint, manuals are available on line on this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 it sounds like his brakes are locking up when he applies them, not staying locked up. no amount of wear/tear on a brake line would cause that, if anything it would leak or bulge when applying pressure diminishing the stopping power not making it lock up- dont buy new lines just yet, that like throwing money at it until it its fixed. locate what is bad then replace it. again I am staying with my first prognosis on this, rear brakes arent functioning at all it sounds like. proportioning valve, master cylinder, pads worn too far down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 it sounds like his brakes are locking up when he applies them, not staying locked up. "... still locks up after a few miles and using the brake lightly." I guess you could read it that way too. Could go either way. Hopefully we'll get some more details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 true, I didnt read it that way- but yes could be either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 I had the same thing happen to me on an old MG that I was rebuilding. It was the master cylinder. It is not releasing the pressure after the brakes are applied. It slowly builds up so that after a few brakes, it's locked. I ended up crawling under the vehicle and turn the bleeding valve to release the pressure after I braked a few times. Just make sure you have some extra brake fluid to keep it topped up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Also with an MG (they're all old!) the flex hose collapsed internally. There was enough pressure to force fluid to the caliper, but then the fluid was trapped there. By turning the steering wheel to full lock, I could reach in with a spanner (wrench) to crack the bleeder and release the pressure without going underneath. It was just 1 wheel locking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted April 22, 2012 Author Share Posted April 22, 2012 Where is it that you're stranded and where are you trying to get to? Maybe someone can point you to a repair facility. When the brakes lock up, how do you get them unlocked? Does sitting for a while unlock them? You mentioned lots of parts being changed. No mention of the flexible brake hoses. Do you know which brake is locking? Front? Rear? Left? Right? There will be a difference in the temperature of the wheel on the corner that's locking. Hi Derek, I don't know yet how to hit reply all to respond to all the help! We got her home....thanks to all of you. Both front brakes were seizing and we had it towed back to the shop in fife washington. We had them put a new master cylinder and the connections to it along with everything else needed for safe braking. It worked!!!! We're taking pics to post. Thanks for your swift responses much more to come . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Thanks for letting us know before we sent the dogs out looking for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Hi Derek, I don't know yet how to hit reply all to respond to all the help! We got her home....thanks to all of you. Both front brakes were seizing and we had it towed back to the shop in fife washington. We had them put a new master cylinder and the connections to it along with everything else needed for safe braking. It worked!!!! We're taking pics to post. Thanks for your swift responses much more to come . your master cylinder was causing it to lock up? thats a first to me, usually they just stop making pressure and you lose braking ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sun King Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 your master cylinder was causing it to lock up? thats a first to me, usually they just stop making pressure and you lose braking ability. This happened to my 1986 Sunland Express about 4 months ago, locked up close to an Auto Zone, changed the master cylinder and bled the brakes in the parking lot and was on my way. Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 This happened to my 1986 Sunland Express about 4 months ago, locked up close to an Auto Zone, changed the master cylinder and bled the brakes in the parking lot and was on my way. Mac can you elaborate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sun King Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 can you elaborate? Sure thing. Stepped on brakes coming to a traffic light and they felt normal. Took off from light and RV felt "heavy" (haha, like it ever feels light right?). Drove for maybe an eighth of a mile or so, pumped brakes a few times making problem worse. Pulled into a parking lot and felt both front hubs, extremely hot. Limped across the street to an Auto Zone and replaced master cylinder, all ok. That was 6 months and 24,000 miles ago. Yep, 24,000 in 6 months, lol. I tend to drive it quite a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxy Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I had this problem a while back. In my case the plastic pad on the brake lever that the light switch contacts had broken so the brake lights stayed on. When replacing the pad, the switch got screwed in a little to tight and it kept the master cylinder from fully releasing. The brakes would be fine after sitting, but would pump up and lock after 15-20 stops within a short period of time. (Like in traffic with a stretch of stop lights). Once the switch was backed off a few turns, all was fine. Sometimes it's stupid little things like that are hard to figure out. If someone else had replaced the pad before I bought the truck, I probably never would have figured it out and wound up replacing a lot of the brake system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davidadro Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) When I first bought my 1983 dolphin I spent a fortune trying to resolve an issue with the longer I drove, the more drag was felt, to the point it would not move. This overheated my front brakes, thinking it was the heat causing them to swell. After they cooled, I could again move freely. At first they said it was frozen calipers so those were replaced, and various other parts on the brakes also. It was when I was driving on my first trip it got so bad, I was actually stuck in traffic. I was towed to a Toyota garage, and they finally discovered that my issue was bad master cylinder that would continue to adding pressure in the system every time I pushed the brakes, but not releasing it properly. it would pressurize them to the point of full braking. The more they were used, the more the problem occured such as in town driving they would be worse due to stop and go traffic. Once I replaced the Masted Cylinder, this issue was resolved and never returened. Hope this helps, and good luck! Edited May 29, 2012 by Davidadro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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