Foxy

I had this problem a while back. In my case the plastic pad on the brake lever that the light switch contacts had broken so the brake lights stayed on. When replacing the pad, the switch got screwed in a little to tight and it kept the master cylinder from fully releasing. The brakes would be fine after sitting, but would pump up and lock after 15-20 stops within a short period of time. (Like in traffic with a stretch of stop lights). Once the switch was backed off a few turns, all was fine. Sometimes it's stupid little things like that are hard to figure out. If someone else had replaced the pad before I bought the truck, I probably never would have figured it out and wound up replacing a lot of the brake system.

Just went through a similar issue with the brake lights. What I unlimately found is that there is supposed to be a small plastic pad on the brake lever that is attached by snap pin. (similar to the plastic panel fasteners on many cars) In my case the pad broke and fell down on top of the air duct. So now the button was 1) further away from the lever and 2) there was a hole in the brake lever that almost perfectly lined up with the button on the switch. I found the pad and broken off pin after removing the air duct so I could see better. I never did find a replacement pad, but made my own with a panel fastener and a couple small washers to space it at the same thickness as the original pad.

I had one of the Toyota diesel long bed pickups and several of the gas trucks as well. Fuel economy was great, but pickup and power were no where near the 22R. I remember it having about 350K miles on it when the frame broke. A guy gave me $400 for the engine which was still running strong.

I added a universal receiver hitch to my Warrior. and use one of the Harbor Freight aluminum cargo racks that I modified to make taller and made a canvas cover to keep the contents out of site. I fit a Honda 2000i in the carrier with plenty of room left over for other stuff and gass cans. The 2000i powers the AC just fine and you can barely hear it when the AC is operating.

There are universal trailer hitches which are adjustable in width. Do a google search to find a mail order supplier. I had to cut a couple of skid brackets off to have room to install the one on our 91 Winnabago Warrior. We use the hitch for either a lightweight trailer or a cargo rack depending on our plans. I barely had room to mount it so you need to make sure yours will fit with the tanks etc. back there. We put a ladder on the back and use a ladder mounted bike rack. I think you will find that a much easier installation than the hitch and its handy for checking the AC unit, resealing leaks and so on. The ladder and rack combined will weigh less than the hitch alone and the cost will be comparable.

If all you are running is lights and you use only what you need, the house battery should not be running down. We have spent 3-4 days without being connected and without running the engine and I think could last a week with some care. If on the other hand you run a TV, an inverter for a microwave, and most of the lights in the RV, you will need to charge the battery. An inverter was never standard, but may have been added by a previous owner. The Warrior uses a continuous duty solinoid mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment to isolate the house and coach batteries. When the engine is running, the solinoid is closed and provides charging to the house battery.You may want to get a multi-meter to test that the soilinoid is working as well as check the battery itself. The DC converter in the coach will also charge the battery when the AC power is connected. The converters are not well regulated and will overcharge the battery and cook the water out of the cells. You should check to see that the cells have water and fully charge the battery. After charging and with no load on the batteries wait 4-5 hours and test the voltage at the terminals. If the voltage has dropped significantly from 12V, the battery is not good and needs to be replaced. The normal engine alternators are only 40-55 amps and intended mainly to recharge the starting battery. It takes a lot of running to bring up the house bank it it's discharged. If you are using lots of DC power, then you may want to go for a small case 155 amp alternator and voltage regulater. It will fit in the same place. The alternative is a small generator like the Honda EU 2000i. It will cost you a bit more, but you can charge the batteries, run the AC, microwave etc at the same time.

I have the EU2000i and a 91 Warror. The generator will fit in the space with room to spare for other items and will power the AC unit. The generator should be taken out of the compartment when running. Also we tried storing extra gas in a 2 gallon container in the compartment, but you can smell the gas inside the RV so that is not a good idea. The vent on the generator's tank closes and we can't smell gas from the generator itself when stored. I had installed a reciever hitch to tow a small trailer and had purchased an aluminum storage rack from Harbor Freight so that we could haul gas cans there if we need to evacuate Florida for a hurricane. I decided to modify it, making it taller and adding a Sunbrella cover to keep things out of site and somewhat out of the sun. The Honda fits nicely out there and I rigged an electrical cord under the RV to the panel box so we can run the generator whenever we want or need to without moving it. It works out great. We can keep the RV cool when we stop in a hot parking lot to shop or just for lunch.

We have a ladder mounted bike rack that has routinely carried two bicycles (probably 45-50# each) for three years. Your tandom probably does not weigh more than that. The rack holds the bike's vertically by the bar running from the seat to the pedals. You just have to mount it at the right height on the ladder.

As WME notes, check your air bags because with a 92 model, it is probably time for replacement. After replacing ours last year, we don't drag on anything where we used to have to watch out for "problem" entrances to gas stations and parking lots.

You might try and see if these will work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Lift-57113-TOYOTA-MICRO-MINI-MOTORHOME-/330388922964?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cecb6e254 I had a hard time finding bags for my 91 Warrior. They are apparently not making them anymore and this fellow on E-bay was the only guy I could find them from.

I have a 91 Warrior and added a hitch. We regularly tow a 700 lb trailer with no problems. I would not even think about towing anything over 1000#. Winnebago does not rate the unit for towing anything. As others mention, it would be very hard on brakes plus the extended frame is only 2" channel. Not meant to carry much more than the camper itself.

We have had our 91 Winnebago for about 2 years now. Upgrades have been: trailer hitch, roof ladder & bike rack. Repairs have been: New Tires, Starter, new air bags, service automotive AC, replace burner in the propane fridge, replaced all belts and had a tune up plus routine oil changes. The previous owner gave us their service records which included the head gasket replacement and a new timing belt at 62K miles. We have put about 20k miles on it and will probably do another 10-12k this year. Fuel useage usually runs about 13-14mpg when towing our small trailer and 14-16 without it. When we bought it, I was thinking it was cheaper than renting to find out if we liked RVing and we could easily sell it and upgrade. However after looking around, we decided that we liked our little Toy better than anything else we saw under 25 feet. (which would be our upper limit on size) I think we will be keeping it until it dies.

There are generic adjustable width RV hitches that will fit. I installed one on my 91 Warrior two years ago just after I bought it. I had to cut way the skid brackets on the frame to have a place to mount it and drill several holes in the frame to bolt it on. In all a 2-3 hour job. We have towed a 700 lb trailer probably 8k miles now. The Warrior actually has C-channel welded to the truck frame to extend it which other makers may not have. I had new airlift bags installed this week and my mechanic was commenting on how much better the frame looked than others he has seen. If all you want to do is carry bikes, then put a ladder on the back and use one of the ladder mount bike racks. You can use the ladder to get up and re-caulk or service everything on the roof. It will cost about the same in the long run, its easier to install and lighter than the hitch and hitch mounted rack. We have one of those too! Foxy

Greg & Derek, Thanks for the info. I was able to get the Airlift set from the guy on E-bay and they are now installed. Due to time and lack of a good workspace I let the pro do it. What a difference in ride! Even when newer, the older helper type that attach to the springs were never this good. Foxy

Where are you getting your air bags? My mechanic has been trying to find some replacements for the ones on my 91 Winnebago for a couple weeks now. He has been told they were discontinued and no are longer available. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

Its typical for the motor home company to have a year newer date than the Toyota chassie it's built on. I.E. our 91 Winnabago is built on a 90 chassie. There was an old thread on prices which included a formula for year and milage. I don't think $7k is bad if the vehicle is really in the condition stated. We paid $12k for our 91 in 2008 with 62k miles. It was very clean and everything worked. The tires were only a year old, but I did not notice that they had two different sizes on it. We chewed them up in 3k miles. The replacements have 12k on them and still look brand new. If you believe the Dolphin owners on the forum, the Dolphins were better built than some of the others. We have had no "Winnebago issues", only with the Toyota and vendor parts like the Norcold fridge burner. I've owned 3 Toyota pickups and all had 200k+ miles when I sold them. None were ever loaded down as much as an RV though. If I had to do it again, I would still buy the same vehicle. We love it!

We have a 91 which came with a screw jack, not a scisors. It works fine but we also carry a 6 ton hydraulic bottle jack which we often use for leveling. We bought a set of nesting aluminum jack stands for leveling and for safty when working under it. The bottle jack and the toyota jack are almost the same height so no advantage/disadvantage of one over the other. With two, you can get a start somewhere and then get the other in a better start for the heavy lifting. We use one of the 4way lug wrenches as it gives much better leverage.

Make sure the vehicle has the 6 bolt axle! Also check the DOT code for the age date on the tires. Old tires can have great tread and still blow out on the highway. We have a 91 Winnebago with the 6 cylindar engine and love it. We bought it with 62k miles and have added about 15k miles to it in the 1.5 years we have owned it. These are old vehicles and some maintenance will be required. We have replaced the tires, starter, belts, and exhaust. We had to replace the propane burner on the fridge. I'm skeptical of 18mpg. The best we have seen is 16 when traveling about 55-60 mph and no air conditioning. Worst is 12 mpg towing a small trailer at 65-70 with air. We find that its great for two people for several weeks at a time. We have taken two grand children for the weekend. Ours sleeps 4 and thats all I would ever want. You would have to have 6 very friendly people and while you may have beds for 6, you don't have storage for that many. Our carpet came with a plastic sheet over it which is a good thing. I would favor some kind of vinyl flooring over carpet. One rainy weekend will convince you of this logic. Consider that you are buying this for about the price of what your first year's depreciation will be on something new. Its a great way to decide if RVing is something you like and in a year or two, you can always trade to something else without loosing much.

Our rig uses the same system as the Toyota pickups. chain with crank by the jack handle located right side behind the axle. I used a universal RV hitch to the frame extenders and had to remove two small skid brackets to make room for it. Our fully loaded GVR on the trailer is 700#s and I wouldn't advise towing more than that.

I've been through several problems with my propane fridge. 1st we had some dirt up in the vent fall and clog over the burner openings. Got that cleaned up with an old toothbrush, but that broke the end of the ignighter off so I had to manually light. Had the ignighter replaced and several weeks later the burner itself fell apart. They do burn out after a while and the previous handling finished it. I was able to get a replacement burner and installed it myself. The only trick there is that there is a small copper washer that goes between the gas tube and the nozzel which is easy to loose or overlook. You do want the ignighter to work properly as the fridge will relight itself if the flame goes out. Also, its safer to turn the propane off when refueling and it's a pain if you have to do a manual relight each time.

I have a light trailer with two Laser sailboats on it. Total weight of the loaded trailer is probably in the 650-700 lb range. I'm guessing we have towed it about 8000 miles now with the Warrior. The only problem we have is that it is very hard to see whats happening when you back the trailer. Most of the time, I just unhitch and move it by hand when I get into that situation.

Except for AC and a TV (if you must) there is really no need to run 110 for anything. We go camping for 3-4 days not connected. While the RV has a 30 amp service, we have run air off 15 amp with no issues. The fridge uses very little propane and we never switch it to electric. Stove is propane and the only 12V draw is the lights. The house battery is isolated so you are never going to run down the starting battery.

Mine holds me and I weigh 220. Wouldn't want to do any tap dancing, but the roof feels solid and not in any danger of caving in.

None of the toy houses are rated for towing, but I tow a 700 lb trailer rig all the time and have had no problems with it. I think as long as you keep it light, you will be fine.

We bought a 91 Warrior about a year ago and love it. We added a universal RV hitch and tow small sailboats. Entire trailer is under 1000 lb. On our trip, to MA we came back to FL VIA the Blue Ridge Parkway and those mountains were no problem even with the boat trailer. But I wouldn't tow anything heavier and definitely not a car. I don't think you need to take a second vehicle because we've had no trouble parking it anywhere and it drives about like our Safari Van. Minor hassle to unhook connections, but thats less hassle than towing another car.