Foxy

I had this problem a while back. In my case the plastic pad on the brake lever that the light switch contacts had broken so the brake lights stayed on. When replacing the pad, the switch got screwed in a little to tight and it kept the master cylinder from fully releasing. The brakes would be fine after sitting, but would pump up and lock after 15-20 stops within a short period of time. (Like in traffic with a stretch of stop lights). Once the switch was backed off a few turns, all was fine. Sometimes it's stupid little things like that are hard to figure out. If someone else had replaced the pad before I bought the truck, I probably never would have figured it out and wound up replacing a lot of the brake system.

Just went through a similar issue with the brake lights. What I unlimately found is that there is supposed to be a small plastic pad on the brake lever that is attached by snap pin. (similar to the plastic panel fasteners on many cars) In my case the pad broke and fell down on top of the air duct. So now the button was 1) further away from the lever and 2) there was a hole in the brake lever that almost perfectly lined up with the button on the switch. I found the pad and broken off pin after removing the air duct so I could see better. I never did find a replacement pad, but made my own with a panel fastener and a couple small washers to space it at the same thickness as the original pad.

I had one of the Toyota diesel long bed pickups and several of the gas trucks as well. Fuel economy was great, but pickup and power were no where near the 22R. I remember it having about 350K miles on it when the frame broke. A guy gave me $400 for the engine which was still running strong.

I added a universal receiver hitch to my Warrior. and use one of the Harbor Freight aluminum cargo racks that I modified to make taller and made a canvas cover to keep the contents out of site. I fit a Honda 2000i in the carrier with plenty of room left over for other stuff and gass cans. The 2000i powers the AC just fine and you can barely hear it when the AC is operating.

There are universal trailer hitches which are adjustable in width. Do a google search to find a mail order supplier. I had to cut a couple of skid brackets off to have room to install the one on our 91 Winnabago Warrior. We use the hitch for either a lightweight trailer or a cargo rack depending on our plans. I barely had room to mount it so you need to make sure yours will fit with the tanks etc. back there. We put a ladder on the back and use a ladder mounted bike rack. I think you will find that a much easier installation than the hitch and its handy for checking the AC unit, resealing leaks and so on. The ladder and rack combined will weigh less than the hitch alone and the cost will be comparable.

If all you are running is lights and you use only what you need, the house battery should not be running down. We have spent 3-4 days without being connected and without running the engine and I think could last a week with some care. If on the other hand you run a TV, an inverter for a microwave, and most of the lights in the RV, you will need to charge the battery. An inverter was never standard, but may have been added by a previous owner. The Warrior uses a continuous duty solinoid mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment to isolate the house and coach batteries. When the engine is running, the solinoid is closed and provides charging to the house battery.You may want to get a multi-meter to test that the soilinoid is working as well as check the battery itself. The DC converter in the coach will also charge the battery when the AC power is connected. The converters are not well regulated and will overcharge the battery and cook the water out of the cells. You should check to see that the cells have water and fully charge the battery. After charging and with no load on the batteries wait 4-5 hours and test the voltage at the terminals. If the voltage has dropped significantly from 12V, the battery is not good and needs to be replaced. The normal engine alternators are only 40-55 amps and intended mainly to recharge the starting battery. It takes a lot of running to bring up the house bank it it's discharged. If you are using lots of DC power, then you may want to go for a small case 155 amp alternator and voltage regulater. It will fit in the same place. The alternative is a small generator like the Honda EU 2000i. It will cost you a bit more, but you can charge the batteries, run the AC, microwave etc at the same time.

I have the EU2000i and a 91 Warror. The generator will fit in the space with room to spare for other items and will power the AC unit. The generator should be taken out of the compartment when running. Also we tried storing extra gas in a 2 gallon container in the compartment, but you can smell the gas inside the RV so that is not a good idea. The vent on the generator's tank closes and we can't smell gas from the generator itself when stored. I had installed a reciever hitch to tow a small trailer and had purchased an aluminum storage rack from Harbor Freight so that we could haul gas cans there if we need to evacuate Florida for a hurricane. I decided to modify it, making it taller and adding a Sunbrella cover to keep things out of site and somewhat out of the sun. The Honda fits nicely out there and I rigged an electrical cord under the RV to the panel box so we can run the generator whenever we want or need to without moving it. It works out great. We can keep the RV cool when we stop in a hot parking lot to shop or just for lunch.

We have a ladder mounted bike rack that has routinely carried two bicycles (probably 45-50# each) for three years. Your tandom probably does not weigh more than that. The rack holds the bike's vertically by the bar running from the seat to the pedals. You just have to mount it at the right height on the ladder.

As WME notes, check your air bags because with a 92 model, it is probably time for replacement. After replacing ours last year, we don't drag on anything where we used to have to watch out for "problem" entrances to gas stations and parking lots.

You might try and see if these will work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Lift-57113-TOYOTA-MICRO-MINI-MOTORHOME-/330388922964?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cecb6e254 I had a hard time finding bags for my 91 Warrior. They are apparently not making them anymore and this fellow on E-bay was the only guy I could find them from.

I have a 91 Warrior and added a hitch. We regularly tow a 700 lb trailer with no problems. I would not even think about towing anything over 1000#. Winnebago does not rate the unit for towing anything. As others mention, it would be very hard on brakes plus the extended frame is only 2" channel. Not meant to carry much more than the camper itself.

We have had our 91 Winnebago for about 2 years now. Upgrades have been: trailer hitch, roof ladder & bike rack. Repairs have been: New Tires, Starter, new air bags, service automotive AC, replace burner in the propane fridge, replaced all belts and had a tune up plus routine oil changes. The previous owner gave us their service records which included the head gasket replacement and a new timing belt at 62K miles. We have put about 20k miles on it and will probably do another 10-12k this year. Fuel useage usually runs about 13-14mpg when towing our small trailer and 14-16 without it. When we bought it, I was thinking it was cheaper than renting to find out if we liked RVing and we could easily sell it and upgrade. However after looking around, we decided that we liked our little Toy better than anything else we saw under 25 feet. (which would be our upper limit on size) I think we will be keeping it until it dies.

There are generic adjustable width RV hitches that will fit. I installed one on my 91 Warrior two years ago just after I bought it. I had to cut way the skid brackets on the frame to have a place to mount it and drill several holes in the frame to bolt it on. In all a 2-3 hour job. We have towed a 700 lb trailer probably 8k miles now. The Warrior actually has C-channel welded to the truck frame to extend it which other makers may not have. I had new airlift bags installed this week and my mechanic was commenting on how much better the frame looked than others he has seen. If all you want to do is carry bikes, then put a ladder on the back and use one of the ladder mount bike racks. You can use the ladder to get up and re-caulk or service everything on the roof. It will cost about the same in the long run, its easier to install and lighter than the hitch and hitch mounted rack. We have one of those too! Foxy

Greg & Derek, Thanks for the info. I was able to get the Airlift set from the guy on E-bay and they are now installed. Due to time and lack of a good workspace I let the pro do it. What a difference in ride! Even when newer, the older helper type that attach to the springs were never this good. Foxy