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Posted (edited)

Here is the deal it is no different than the pickup the ideal was to keep the rear brakes from locking up with no load in the bed. So we put a house in it's back yep that's a load so it says "yep that 's a load" and applies full brake pressure. So basically there is no gain in tinkering it. It is pretty easy to completely by pass it but it's not going to make much difference it's unlikely you'll ever lock the rear breaks. Due to weight transfer you need all the breaking you can get on the back it is unlike a car that nose dives when breaking shifting the weight forward.

Edited by Maineah
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Posted

Well it finally stopped raining long enough to get under there and do something. I found that the LSPV was adjusted almost all the way toward the bottom which puts less braking to the rear. There does seem to be a return line to the master cylinder so this might be a LSPVB valve system. I made a bracket and screwed (2" hex head stainless screws) it into the under floor of the coach, disconnected the "spring arm" rod from the axle adjuster and wired the end of it to the bracket so it is about 4" from the underfloor surface. Then I purposely tried to get the front end to lock up in a muddy test area of a gravel driveway. I was able to do it but it took some effort, before this change it took NO effort to lock up the front tires on dry gravel, so I would say this was a success. I will report back when I get some real road time on it.

Linda I wonder if your valve is not working? or if you have airbags jacking the rear end high enough that your adjuster runs out of travel before it counters the air bag "lift"?

While I was under there I took a look at the metal framework that supports the floors and walls on a Sunrader and it was pretty pathetic (there is another thread about this elsewhere). They hang the heavy generator out there in the back corner without much support. I had put an extra piece of plywood there (glued and screwed) when I was working on the generator. The rear support does go from wall to wall, But the rest of the supports do not go clear to the outer walls they stop at the Toyota truck frame leaving 18" or so unsupported on each side.

Posted

Yeah, that's what I got, more braking to the rear. The higher the valve control rod is on the axle adjuster the more the valve stays open and lets more fluid pressure to the rear drums. So if you raise that end of the rod even higher than the threaded adjuster lets you, your valve will always remain open to letting maximum pressure to the rear brakes.

Posted

Great information Everyone! Will look @ adjusting mine this spring especially after having my rear leafs re- arched and 4 new heavy-duty leafs installed. Really raised up my rear end (not to be sexist Lol!) I never knew anything was adjustable back there....what a Great Forum this is. Thanks!! 

Posted

Well, raising up the rear (either with extra leaves added or air springs) will 'fool' a normally operating valve into 'thinking' you're running like an unloaded pickup and reduce the braking to the rear. That's why it's a good idea to disconnect the rod to the valve and secure it in the fully open position.

 

Posted

So Derek your saying that adjusting the valve fully open is not adequate and I should disconnect the rod completely? Wish I had my rig here but she's in storage till April. I have no clue but do you mean taking off the upper nut and removing the arm completely? How will that secure the valve in a fully open position? Does the valve spring up itself with the arm unattached? PS I won't call you Sir :)!

Posted

Frankly the size of the rear brakes and the weight you can't have too much breaking on the back.

Posted

I totally by passed mine full pressure to the rear brakes and trust me they will not lockup.

Posted

Thanks Derek and Maineah!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Mark, The way I did mine was to disconnect the control arm at the axle end (where the control adjustment threaded end is). I pulled the one bolt off the arm end allowing me to lift the arm up toward the underside of the floor. where I marked the spot it would come close to. Then I made an "L" shaped bracket and mounted it to the bottom of the cabin floor (under the rig) with hex head self tapping screws. I went inside and found the kitchen table leg holes and measured how deep they were to determine how long a screw to use so it would not stick up into the cabin floor surface. Then I tied the control arm up to the bracket with wire. Huge difference. The problem with air bags is that they raise the rear end so much that even with the control rod set to maximum the valve always thinks the truck has no load at all.

Posted

Thanks Lee & Joan! I don't need air bags as I had my leaf springs rearched and 2 new leaf springs added. Raised my rig about 4 inches. So I'm concerned about the control arm position now. How could you tell the rear brakes are performing better? Not sure how to raise and attach the arm. I'll get Grannie home tomorrow and look. Does the arm need to be completely disconnected or can I just adjust it up as far as I can? Thanks!

Posted (edited)

"Moderation is for Monks" just look at things and see what happens when you raise the rod. Then just put a big bend in the middle of it, same result as raising the bar.

As they say in the racing game "too much is almost enough"

Edited by WME
Posted

I'll try that WME. Thanks!

Posted

I don't think there is enough leeway in that bar to bend it much. Just remove it, wire it up to the frame above it and see if it makes the brakes feel better. I saw no difference when adjusted all the way but not removed. I do have my air bags inflated enough to give the back end a lift so maybe that's why. I am going to try removing the bar from the attachment and wiring it up like I suggested. If I like the results then I can figure out a more permanent bracket.

Linda S

Posted

Let us know Linda if you notice a difference please. Thanks!

Posted

How do I know its better? I have yet to get any road miles on it since the fix but I do have a slippery gravel steep driveway. Before the fix I was backing down the slope with the tranny in DRIVE (not reverse) and ready to grab the hand brake because the front wheels would lock up using the foot brake. Now I can back down backwards and actually stop without locking the front brakes.

Posted

That's promising. Not sure how to check if your rear brakes are working properly. Backing down a hill and see if the front brakes lock up or not??

Posted

You see the bracket that is attached to the left side of the differential in the center of this picture? It has a rubber cushioned joint attached to it then a threaded (adjustable) rusty rod sticking almost straight up into a pressed metal bracket with a bolt on each side of the bracket/adjuster rod. Coming in from behind the spare tire and above the axle is a rod (gray) with a little rubber boot on it and the round end of that rod is bolted to the bracket atop the adjuster. The rod end is held there by one bolt threw the round end of the rod. That is the bolt you take out to free the rod end. Then you lift the rod towards the underside of the floor (above & black) to see where to mount your hanger bracket. Then tie the rod end up to your new hanger bracket. Done Deal.

Underside_Rear_Axle_1.JPG

The picture above shows that the adjuster has been placed in the higher (of 2) axle mounting holes and the threaded adjuster is in the highest position threads, the two ways to give maximum increase in rear brake power that Toyota provided. Hanging the rod from the underside of the floor assures you get max rear breaking even with airbags or stiffer spring bundles deployed.

Posted
9 hours ago, linda s said:

I don't think there is enough leeway in that bar to bend it much. Just remove it, wire it up to the frame above it and see if it makes the brakes feel better. I saw no difference when adjusted all the way but not removed. I do have my air bags inflated enough to give the back end a lift so maybe that's why. I am going to try removing the bar from the attachment and wiring it up like I suggested. If I like the results then I can figure out a more permanent bracket.

Linda S

Ya there is enough leeway. If you look at L&Js photo you will see that the axle end of the rod is mounted to a double pivot. Bending is quick and simple. Try it if you like the result then remove the axle end and afix the rod the the chassis. Test the rv brakes on a dirt road BEFORE making the mod and then after. 20 mph should be enough speed

Posted

Thanks All So Much!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Road Test: Just took rig to town for two new front "Thunderer" tire and did a lot of foot stomping brake tests. I LIKE IT! Not astoundingly able to stop speeding locomotives with a single bound BUT MUCH BETTER than it was. Tendency to lock front wheels is much diminished, stopping distance is much better. Should be making a road report on the 4:88 rear end changes about this time next week. There is a certain hill getting to my house that is a floor it in first and pray type hill, groaning at 15 MPH.

Posted

Well if some is good, will more be better???

Posted

Hey Lee & Joan, am looking forward to your gear change report. How much it costs and where you got the parts. Having learned I've been driving my rig around in Overdrive the past year what a difference it makes with it turned Off LOL!

Posted

Lee if possible, could you show a picture of your rod adjustment after you disconnected it and tied it up to your frame? I think the picture you posted was before you adjustment? That would be helpful for my un-mechanical mind. Thanks!

Posted
14 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:

Hey Lee & Joan, am looking forward to your gear change report. How much it costs and where you got the parts. Having learned I've been driving my rig around in Overdrive the past year what a difference it makes with it turned Off LOL!

Use the online salvage yard search tool and look for a complete diff assembly near you. I looked for a 1993-95 Toyota 4Runner with 31' tires the rear of which is a 4:88/1 ratio. Found one a couple hundred miles away for $300 + $60 shipping. Prices ranged from 150 for a broken one needing a pinion bearing to 450 with 300-325 being about average.

http://car-part.com/

They are HEAVY so having one shipped adds a LOT to the overall cost

Posted

I went over the mountain to Grants Pass today to get the front end aligned, about 200 miles over the coast range and back. It was raining really hard on the way back.          I must say disconnecting the LSPV was the best performance improvement I have made. I used way less foot pressure on the brake pedal and got way more braking. Something I don't know how to describe is it is a different type of braking, Like the whole rig feels like it hunches or squats down and grabs the road with all 6 tires, somehow. It used to feel like the front end dove a lot but not much braking. I found that my usual paranoid "following distance" decreased quite a bit and I was a lot more relaxed. Anyway it is much improved.

Posted

"The rear end squats" is the perfect description to use when describing the rear brakes doing their fair share.

Posted

Would still love to see a picture of your disconnected LSPV set-up if you have time Lee. Thanks for the report!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I am LOVING this modification, it costs almost nothing to do and what a difference it has made. I am no longer driving paranoid of someone pulling out in front of me or panic stops, it just plain works. markwilliam1  I don't have an electronic camera (yet), even my phone won't hook up with the computer. I used to scan actual film into the puter but now it takes 30 days to get film developed, i just got a roll back 31 days. You can see the picture and explanation on page 4.

Edited by Lee & Joan
add stuff
Posted

Thanks Lee & Joan! Your excellent pictures from page 4 helps but I assume it is before you did the adjustment. I'll crawl under my rig and look if it ever stops raining!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/31/2017 at 6:31 PM, Lee & Joan said:

You see the bracket that is attached to the left side of the differential in the center of this picture? It has a rubber cushioned joint attached to it then a threaded (adjustable) rusty rod sticking almost straight up into a pressed metal bracket with a bolt on each side of the bracket/adjuster rod. Coming in from behind the spare tire and above the axle is a rod (gray) with a little rubber boot on it and the round end of that rod is bolted to the bracket atop the adjuster. The rod end is held there by one bolt threw the round end of the rod. That is the bolt you take out to free the rod end. Then you lift the rod towards the underside of the floor (above & black) to see where to mount your hanger bracket. Then tie the rod end up to your new hanger bracket. Done Deal.

Underside_Rear_Axle_1.JPG

The picture above shows that the adjuster has been placed in the higher (of 2) axle mounting holes and the threaded adjuster is in the highest position threads, the two ways to give maximum increase in rear brake power that Toyota provided. Hanging the rod from the underside of the floor assures you get max rear breaking even with airbags or stiffer spring bundles deployed.

Photo below shows control arm (rubber boot with yellow center) hung from bracket attached to floor (silver) with red wire.  Goldish looking thing below that is where it used to be connected off the differential bracket.  I.ve turned that differential mount sideways so it layes down into the sway bar. closer look of bracket in photo #2

123.jpg

124.jpg

125.jpg

126.jpg

Edited by Lee & Joan
add text and pictures
Posted

see updated pictures above

Posted

Man Thanks so much Lee! That's what I needed to see. On Grannie it looks like the valve is @ its lowest position. Will adjust it now! Did you get a digital camera LOL? 

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