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Lee & Joan

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Everything posted by Lee & Joan

  1. I've been away from this forum for a few years. I finally retired and was ready to "Rock and Roll" down the camping road, but first... Four disks needed to be taken out of my neck and a titanium plate attached to 5 vertebra , both hips needed total replacement, and just when I thought that was it, a hernia surgery. That wasn't in the plans nor were the forest fire evacuations. But now, dusting myself off... I've got the 21' Sunrader RD 22RE running again, and the rear brakes are really not very good. The totally new front brakes (Calipers, Pads) will lock up on dry pavement, but the rears are just plain pathetic. So I have been tooling around this site looking for part numbers for all of the parts needed for a totally new rear brake rebuild. From the Master Cylinder to the wheel cylinders, rear shoes, hoses, and the seals required to do the job. I have already blocked the load proportioner valve totally open. I have read that aftermarket shoes don't seem to match the drums. Can you steer me to the appropriate links?
  2. I heard the Diablo Nuclear power plant near San Luis Obispo was plumbed in a mirror image backwards, but it still works.
  3. State Farm has a cheap endorsement for roadside assist, a few bucks per 6 months. I also have AMA American Motorcycle Association membership which will roadside service ANY rig you own. Georges Auto in Crescent City is JUST GREAT for electronics from old farm equipment to the modern world !
  4. Hi Kale, I had my transmission rebuilt by Transmission Exchange http://www.txchange.com/ Right there in Portland. It cost $1500 plus I added their biggest transmission oil cooler. My local shop took it out, shipped it there and back and put it in, put in 8 quarts of synthetic fluid, added the cooler for $640. Same deal with mine, I lost reverse.
  5. Wow, that was exciting, it was upside down !!! Felt like a jet plane ride... Keep the picture coming, you do know how hot Grants Pass has been this last week, right?
  6. When I bought my rig the first owner keep MPG logs, and he was getting more like 16.5 to 19.5 MPG. These looked like legit logs he kept to see what his MPG was. Now this was in the 1980's like Linda said, and gasoline was 100% gasoline. Now I am not going to downplay Ethanol, but I think they should give that to you in a shot glass and put the gasoline in the camper, you know. "here's your gallon of pure ethanol everclear for your kitchen, and here's your 9 gallons of gasoline for your motor home". Go on vacation and come home with a years supply of pure corn mash booze. I have an 86 Toyota 22re 4x4 extra cab that gets 19 MPG until I put my bike trailer on, then it gets 17 MPG. So If I can pull that trailer with my Sunrader and get 13.5 MPG, and have a place to sleep and cook in, well that's a great deal. After looking at all my trips and trying to figure out why I got high or low mileage on certain segments of the trip I generally came to no conclusions. Except headwinds and tailwinds which you can't do much about. For every up there is a down, low MPG on the way up, great MPG on the way down. Some of the steepest climbs gave me some of the best MPGs, go figure! High speed on freeways with headwinds were the worst. But high speeds on freeways with a tailwind were pretty good MPG's. Rural two lane slow roads generally gave good MPG's, even when having steep (slow) climbs.
  7. I have driven 16,165 miles almost always hauling a motorcycle trailer and motorcycle, mostly on mountain roads in northern California and Oregon. Sunrader 22re automatic tranny. Speed range 45-65 MPH. Average = 13.56 MPG Highest=16.87 Lowest=9.0 Standard Deviation=1.56
  8. Yesterday I was all set to replace the original (crappy) vinyl (rubber) molding strips that go around the center body joint where the two fiberglass (upper & lower) body sections join together. Well I saw a bunch of rusty Phillips screws holding the aluminum molding so I decided to unscrew a few to see how bad they were...quite a few were broken off or semi headless. So today I put a new stainless steel #10 screw (old ones were #8 galvanized) between each of the old screws before replacing the vinyl molding strip. I have never heard of a Sunrader opening up like a clam-shell at speed due to rusty screws, but I did not want to become the first. It takes a couple 25 foot rolls of molding strip and about 100 screws to do this. I found that the strip from the cabin front door around the cab over and down the drivers side is 25 feet 4 inches, a hair over a 25' roll.
  9. I have had two 22re starters fail abruptly. One was a 250000 mile stocker, the other a 75000 mile made in Mexico. No warning on either. The after market one failed a month ago, I went into a parts store to pick up a master cylinder, came out and no starter... went back in got a starter, got a push start 5 speed manual trans pickup, and had two fix it jobs instead of one.
  10. In little Brookings town (pop6000) we have a shop that rebuilds starters and generators, he is in the auto parts store. There is one also in nearby Cresent City, also a small town. Get in the phone book and look for auto electric, if they don't do it ask them who does. Get it tested on a bench, it may not be worn out but it might be thirty years of spider webs, dirt, rust, lack of lube, or whatever in there.
  11. Mattieice I would definitely use the 4:88 With your bigger tires you really don't want the 4:56, but it works well in the V6's. The hardest part of this swap is getting the cone washers off the axle cap studs. The link to "Brake Job" shows how to do it. There are lock cones under the nuts, a puller just makes them tighter. Put the nuts on just a bit, take a slightly larger piece of pipe and smack it with a BFH. If things go right the cone will pop out and the nut will trap it, do it 5 more times. There 2 threaded holes in the axle flange screw in a couple of bolts then slowly and equally turn them in and pull the axle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSD03At4mOE this is how to do a brake job you just need to watch to 45 seconds where she “smacks the crap out of them”, don’t go any farther…you just want to be able to pull the axles out enough to clear the pumpkin. Yeah Linda ~ I should have gotten the 195's oh well next time I will know better.
  12. I wore out the copper commutator contact rings in my stock starter and got them from the local Toyota dealer, put them in and am at 275000 miles on my 88 truck.
  13. Is this why my cab AC will not cycle on and off, it just remains on and will freeze up the lines. I have been manually cycling it with the green light dash button. Is there a temp relay that I am missing? When I got the rig there was no wiring to the compressor so I ran a wire into the cab unit to power the clutch...
  14. You might want to read this http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9743-new-rear-end-gearing-question-456-488-or/&page=2 I made the change this May and have gone on one 869 mile trip since. Here's what I found An update on the 4:88 rear end conversion. I just got back from an 800 mile trip to the same location I went to a year ago (Brookings to Hood River and back). The trip has been taking me about 10.5 hours one way (400 miles). This time it took a hair over 8 hours...about 8.2 hours. The reason? I could hold 3rd gear much longer on a climb AND I could stay in 2cd gear on every hill that had me dropping into first gear previously. The engine and I were quite happy. I was using less gas petal while I was turning higher RPMs the whole trip. I spent way less time stressing about when best to shift down because the engine was holding each gear much better. I did not have to shift down "early" and listen to the engine screaming, I could wait and shift down when the gear I was in got down to 2400~2600 RPM when the next gear down would come in at around 3300~3500 and it would pull it. I spent most of the trip turning 2800 ~ 3300 RPM. These are my figures SPEED GEAR RPM 44 2 3200 50 2 3600 50 3 2500 55 3 2800 60 3 3000 65 3 3300 65 4 2200 I was keeping up with traffic for the very first time, no sweat going 65-70, much better acceleration both passing and away from stops. The last hill to my house I was doing 18 MPH straining at 1800 RPM with the 4:10, now I was doing 28 MPH in first and could have gone faster (I don't know the RPMs becauseI was giggling so much I forgot to look at the tach). I must note that I am pulling a trailer all the time, probably just under 600# with a 250# motorcycle. So I am smiling pretty good at this point. Now for the downside... I ran 7 tanks of gas on both trips, my 4:10 average MPG was 13.36 while my 4:88 MPG was 11.72, so about a 14% decrease in MPG. However my average speed with the 4:10 was 38.09 MPH while with the 4:88 it was 48.78 MPH which is a 28% increase in speed. Divide that into your 13% MPG loss and less strain on both the driver and the drivetrain & I think I can live with the result quite well. I still found little use of the overdrive, it is just too big of a jump, at 65 MPH it would be doing 2200 RPM and I suppose you could jamb your foot down and make it go, but I still went back into 3rd at 3300 RPM. It is a ridiculous gear ratio on the A340F 4-speed automatic transmission . If it went from 1.00 to 1.00 to maybe 0.85 4th gear might be worth something, but the 30% jump is just too much even with the 4:88 rear end. Gear Ratio 1 2.80 2 1.52 3 1.00 4/OD 0.71 Maybe if I was not pulling a trailer, or had a REALLY good tailwind, or my whole trip was downhill... OH, and the driveline bolted right up to the 4 Runner Pumpkin, and the axles go right in also, and the 1995 I got had posi traction as a bonus Today I finished adding all my miles and gallons used data into excel, almost all of it pulling a motorcycle trailer 16,165 miles averaging out to 13.56 MPG, highest MPG was 18.4 lowest was 7.08 but they were way outside the normal 12 to 15 range that most tanks gave me, you will note that 13.5 is in the center of 12-15
  15. I think she means the driveshaft not the crankshaft. Still it should not pull the tranny out... lauraj012 July 10 · Mark this topic read · Report post Help! I have a 1983 Toyota 22R engine with 4 speed transmission. The driveshaft literally fell out dragging the transmission with it. My mechanic is having trouble finding a replacement. Any suggestions?
  16. I can park in my driveway June to October and get 60~ 70 degrees but the rest of the year its 40~50's. I live right by the September dot on the top map. Problem is its raining most of the time... Nice Maps BTW, looks like Darrel has got the July August part nailed this year.
  17. Liked the Farmers Market MP Fairbanks farmers market. 20170712_112451.mp4 But had to turn sideways to the screen to see it, but it was worth it. Getting my daily jollies from your ongoing posts, keep it up. The flowers really are more vibrant in Alaska.
  18. If it is a plugged LSPV, and it sounds like it is, you can replace it with a T fitting as shown in the LSPV Thread. You moved the control rod "from the lowest setting on the axle" "to up close to the floor", but it did not effect braking, so your valve must be plugged up.
  19. WOW, Darrel, fantastic, keep those photos coming. I read up on these personal Mosquito repellents you can put on your belt, or get a lantern https://www.amazon.ca/ThermaCELL-MR-XJ-Mosquito-Repellent-Appliance/dp/B00LM93Q0Y/ref=sr_1_3/147-1075444-6849368?ie=UTF8&qid=1498346882&sr=8-3&keywords=thermacell+lantern they protect out to 15 feet, runs 4 hours per load.. Now you have me curious why they would build a machine to crush trees? Is there some story there about a war on trees?
  20. http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/silicone-based-dot5-busting-myth-832808.html I just searched the web for the best price on DOT 5 so I have used different brands over the years. I think I read somewhere that there really is no difference in brands of DOT 5 so let low price dictate your brand. I have not had any problems flushing out the old glycol fluid, I just add the Purple DOT 5 to the reservoir and pump it through. You see the gucky old glycol come out the bleeder as clear or brown yellow, then a transition to mild purple, them finally a full on deep purple. I have then let all the pumped out fluid sit in a clear glass jar for a day. All the still good purple DOT5 rises to the top and the old gunge sinks to the bottom. Decant the dark purple DOT5 off the top through a coffee filter and "WHA LA" you can reclaim the extra DOT 5 you used to pump all the bubbles and crud out of the system. That makes it less expensive to do a really "overkill" job on purging the old fluid out. When you look at the cost of changing your Glycol fluid every year or so, or not changing it and getting corrosion, leaky seals and stuck cylinders, well DOT 5 is way cheaper... Some say that DOT5 has less heat tolerance, but that is only true when the fluid is brand new. Conventional fluid starts to lose its heat tolerance once you open the bottle and degrades over time, but DOT5 stay the same for decades.
  21. ME TOO !!! (I don't mean that I want to go along with Mil & Sil) I mean stay with us where ever you go in whatever size rig you end up in, even if you get a $500,000 ForeTravel...Quad Slide, Marble floored, 100 gallon gas tanked, 120 gallon blackwatered, 5000 watt solarized, 75 MPH (towing a Escalante), Rig
  22. I go with the "bleed it again" folks. Since I have to do a lot of bleeding by myself I use one of these handy "Motion Pro" one man bleeders. For $11.69 it has more than paid for itself. When you are back under the rear axle yelling "Pedal Up/Pedal Down" while your wife says "WHAT?" and you just sucked some air back into the system (again) $11.69 is real cheap marriage insurance. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0143-Hydraulic-Bleeder/dp/B000MXW2EM I also use pure Dot 5 silicone fluid in everything since I live 2 miles from the ocean and water is always in the air. The silicone won't adsorb water. It is very purple and you can bleed it to your hearts content. Put the old fluid in a clear glass jar and the good stuff (purple) floats over the bad stuff (not purple), so you can strain and reuse the good stuff. Dot 5 costs more but does not have to be changed every year or so. The other thing with a new master cylinder (besides the primeing) is to adjust the plunger length. The plunger is the rod in the unit that pushes the cup in the back of the cylinder of the master. It is adjustable with a nut on the rod. I just did my truck and it now has a little more play before it engages, but is firm when it does. I think the book says to bleed from the furthest wheel to the closest wheel (from the Master). I am not sure if the proportioner valve has a bleeder, I don't think it does? see diagram at link Toyota FSM-LSP&BV.pdf
  23. Some good info here on RV solar systems https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-history-or-how-did-i-end-up-so-angry/ https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/2015-midnite-classic-problems/
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