twoblocked

Ever hear of a paragraph?

Nice pic. I have a '92 Winnebago Itasca and have rebuilt my drain valves. The drain valve is connected to a short piece of hose that drains outside, through the floor. Locate this hose from underneath and put a piece of cardboard or newspaper in the vicinity of the hose. Remove the metal 'C clip' (bend it with needle nose pliers) from the top of the valve (it's shown in your pic) then, carefully drive the valve stem downward, with a long, thin punch or whatever, completely through the valve body. It will drop to the ground and you will capture it on the cardboard. Take this plunger to a competant hardware store and let them remove the O'rings, measure them, and give you replacements. Lightly lubricate the O'rings before plunging them back, upwards, into the valve body from below. Reattach the 'C clip'. Should be good to go for another 20 years. The other way is to remove the entire drain valve assembly, take it apart, repair, which is a pain but doable.

We have camped around Moab for the last couple years to ride our trikes on the slickrock MTB trails. Hiway #128 has lots of camping spots like WME says, but they are all right next to the road. It's over 100F there now so that may keep the traffic down and it won't be so noisy or crowded. Beautiful spots right on the river. There is no dispersed camping around Moab itself, just some pay campgrounds. We like Sand Flats, $10 a night right outside of town, no river, nice desert, some nice spots away from other campers. The nearest BLM dispersed we found is on the way into Canyonlands Nat'l Park on Hyw #313 about 6-8 miles in on the right. No river, all desert, and camping spots are spread out over miles.

I installed my temp sensor in the pan, brazed in a fitting for it. (you need to be very mindfull of the location as you could accidently screw the sensor into a working piece of the transmission) There is discussion on this forum about placement, some say install in the outflow, some say install on the return, I say install one where you can, these temps are all relative. So sorry to hear about your transmission failure. I hope everything worked out.

We boondock extensively in Northern Arizona and Southern Utah. I know the anxiety of watching gauges climb ballistically on some of the ruthless climbs here. (we're currently on the Bryce Plateau at 8,000ft) The "diet" didn't work for us. A few pounds saved didn't seem to make any difference climbing in hot weather. We still ran VERY hot, 230F engine, 225F transmission. So this winter I added ANOTHER transmission cooler. For a total of three transmission coolers. Our climb out temps are now reasonable. Last July - Phoenix to Flagstaff 105F ambient, 2,000ft to 8,000ft. Engine temp 230F, Transmission temp 225F, 3,500RPM V6, 4.56:1 differential. This July - Phoenix to Flag 100F ambient, 215F Engine, 190F Transmission. We get to keep our camping goodies and give the little Toyhome a huge benefit.

Your fridge unit itself is working properly (boiler, evaporator, condenser) if it works on 110VAC. I would start looking at the burner assembly. If the burner jet orifice is restricted or the burner itself is sooted up, there won't be enough heat produced to boil the ammonia and consequently it won't cool properly. You'll need to download the manual for your particular unit and look for the technical section about R&R of the burner and associated parts. It will tell you what the flame should look like and how to set it up. Be sure to practice safe propane gas procedures.

Oops, you're right. It ain't a sissors jack but a screw jack instead. Either way it's not going to lift a rear end of one of our 21' motorhomes.

Toyota usually stored their OEM scissor jack and handle behind the drivers seat. But it is too light to use on the rear end of a 6,000# Dolphin. The front end weighs approximately 2,000# - the rear end approx 4,000#. I use a bottle jack placed under the axle: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200304827_200304827 And don't forget one of these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305223_200305223 Also, you'll probably need a 2' breaker bar fitted with an extension and proper sized socket to get the rear lug nuts loose. The best prevention for flats is good tires.

Removing humidity is hard work for any AC unit. Make sure you have all the windows and vents closed in your RV. You want to re-circulate the air inside and not bring in any outside air that will require extra work to remove humidity. If water is running off the roof I'd say the unit is operating pretty well. It's just that you have some tough conditions for an AC. (i.e. high humidity) maineah and WME have the right idea. Take temperature readings in the coach and the discharge at the AC. A 20-30 degree differential is about all you can expect.

What symptoms are you having that indicate you need to recharge?

In my case, '92 Winnebago V6 3VZE, it turned out to be the starter solenoid contactors. It happened three times in a 7,000 mile trip. In each case I crawled underneath and tapped on the starter/solenoid with the handle end of a hammer (you can't get at it with the business end of the hammer, the starter is buried) The truck started right up after a little persuasion. That winter I dropped the starter and replaced the badly pitted copper contactors in the solenoid. Parts were cheap at Toyota. Tough job because the starter is in a very inaccessable location and hard to snake out of the engine compartment.

Fascinating thread, Irving. Thanks for posting. You are correct about the SR5 instrument cluster being plug and play except for the oil pressure sender change out. I installed a 4-Runner cluster in my '92 Itasca ('91 chassis V-6) and all the connectors plugged right into the 'new' cluster. I get by just fine without a gear shift indicator. I use the old vacuum gauge method of watching for shift points while using cruise control lockup, but you have me convinced to try out an MPGuino. I'm getting 16.5MPG out here in the West with lots of mountains to climb.Like you I live at 48-53MPH on secondary roads. I might also mention I swapped out the 4.10:1 differential for a 4.56:1. That helped immensely to keep the transmission locked up at lower speeds.

The primary cause of this condition is low freon. To check if you're low, find the drier. They are usually located near the bulkhead on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Trace your freon lines to locate it. On the top of the drier is a sight glass. (you may need to wipe it clean, they can get pretty grimmy) Start the engine, turn on the AC. Raise the engine RPM. Watch the sight glass, it should run clear, liquid freon. If ANY bubbles appear in the sight glass stream you are definately low on R12. (I'm assuming you still have the original R12 system) There are other causes for the symptoms you describe, but this is where to start.

It's the oil pressure sender that needs to be changed out. If you use the pressure sender from the original V-6 you will blow the pressure indicator in the SR5 instrument cluster. I installed an SR5 cluster (no shift indicator) in my '91 Winnebago Spirit. I purchased a pressure sender for an SR5 cluster and it works perfectly.

You shouldn't be shocked, this has happened before this past January. You would not know if you clicked on a malicious link, they are being so cleverly disguised these days. One click and you've just uploaded and installed malware on your computer. You'd be lucky if it was just a bot. Not so lucky if you get a key stroke logger buried in your boot up sequence. You would have to re-install your OS to clean it up. Virus detection software is useless against a Russian key stroke logger. Some malicious hackers have a back door into this version of IPBoard software. (they may even be at the GoDaddy level) It seems they can come and go at will. Time for an upgrade, Mr Administrator.