How to make a 1987 Dolphin (or any camper) very reliable

[crasster]

Well my restoration project is going well, and I am nearing completion.

My wife and I have 5 young children that have all helped in the restoration project. Believe it or not, we do have enough room to sleep everybody. The boys have decided that simple padded bed rolls under the table bed & couch that "folds over" is called "The Cave". So they want to sleep there in the cave. LOL.

So we'll be good & cozy and having a blast in our restored 1987 Dolphin.

We home school the kids, and I work on the internet (and only need access for about 10 minutes a day if on the road), so we are planning on taking the kids all over America to supplement their "History (such as going to Gettysburg when learning about the Civil war), Science (go find fossils) etc.

However, there are a few concerning issues that I personally have...

I want to make this camper SUPER reliable. I don't want to risk break downs. My kids ages are 12 down to 2 and I don't need to be trapped in some desert or barren land somewhere. So I'm looking to start "swapping" some mechanical parts for new trusted ones because I don't know the history or the age (could be original?) of some of these parts.

I'm asking for advice on what I should switch out that could leave me stranded. Stranded would STINK with 5 kids & wife to look after.

So far this is what I have done with new parts in the engine compartment:

1) New PCV valve

2) New starter

3) New battery

4) New battery isolator

5) New Spark Plugs

6) New oil & filter

7) New Fuel filter

8) Added tranny fluid

Parts not in engine:

1) New Fuel pump

2) New Muffler

3) New tires including spare

4) New house batteries

So now here is what I am thinking of doing to make things "more reliable", "more safe", "more stranded proof".

A) New alternator. This one still works, but who wants alternator problems? ($80 - 90 for 70 amp on Ebay)

B New Water pump. ($27 Ebay)

C) New belts when changing both water pump & alternator

D) New Hoses when the system is open for water pump & alternator

E) New Radiator? Or just a flush? (Found a new one for $58 on ebay) Current radiator seems to be stock. - and cap. (New radiator fan? $28 Ebay)

F) New Coolant

G) New Thermostat when things are open

H) Possibly install an external transmission cooler?, new trans filter, new trans fluid

Of course a good road side assistance program (ERS - Good Sam, AAA, coach net) as well. Cell phone, laptops with GPS, and GPS devices as well. Credit card if rental van needed. Bringing "general tools". Several thousands of dollars in the bank or Credit Cards with the credit.

Is there anything else I should add to the list of parts, reliability, or safety? Are most of those items a good idea to change?

Our families kind of "stink" and probably nobody would come pick us up states away.

So I'm seeking first HEAVY reliability, and second a good backup plan.

Thanks a lot!

[Bunneys]

How far do you want to go?? Rebuilt engine? I think your on the right track, but I have a problem with the terms, reliability and ebay used in the same post…

Get good name-brand (Toyota) parts or go with a solid online performance shop like LC Engineering site: http://www.lcengineering.com/

Andrew. :-)

[Supurcar]

Good list!

I might touch on a few other ares as well, We all know Toyotas are very reliable to begin with hence the loyal following on these pages.

I replaced my shocks with the Rancho 5000 heavy duty shocks. I also inspected/repaired the air lines for my airbags as one line was sagging on the exhaust and was melting (I think a zip tie must have let go). Make sure the exterior lights and markers are working, I think these have a problem with the wires getting old and corroded and not having a good ground.

Yearly inspection of the propane lines and water lines and I think you might have covered just about everything......

[waiter]

Being stranded would really stink if your 500 miles away from anywhere that could do repairs, Prudoe Bay Alaska. That's why I've went through mine with a fine tooth comb.

What hasn't worn out from mileage is probably dried out from age. As Andrew said, Make sure you know the origin of your spare parts

The only thing I see missing is:

If you have an automatic, check the status of tail shaft play, this is an indicator of transmission bushing going bad.

Also check Brakes, front and rear. While you have the wheels off, repack front and rear bearings. and inspect bushing.

Check fluid levels in rear end.

Replace Ignition Cap, Rotor, and wires.

Depending on mileage, you may also consider a fuel pump.

Take a peak at the Air conditioner. If it is holding a charge, you may want to top it off with refrigerant.

Look at the roof very carefully, dry rotted vents, re-seal all seams.

Cooling fan clutch, should turn easy when cold and a lot harder when hot.

(Save all the old parts, belts, hoses, cap, rotor, etc, etc, etc as spares)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Maineah]

I agree with bunneys ebay cheap stuff is probably made of chinesium (cheap stuff form China) I think I would trust the original stuff with miles on it more. If you buy stuff from NAPA or the like at least it has a guarantee and can be replaced at any one of their stores if it fails but you are on the right track with the hoses, belts etc. How many miles on this thing? Your fuel pump is inside the tank and they are pretty dependable. If you have a lot of miles on it and the trans fluid has not been changed I would not change it, 40K or so go ahead. If it does not have an external cooler that would be a really big plus. Lots of times replacing parts just because backfires at least they were playing well with others.

[crasster]

I agree with bunneys ebay cheap stuff is probably made of chinesium (cheap stuff form China) I think I would trust the original stuff with miles on it more. If you buy stuff from NAPA or the like at least it has a guarantee and can be replaced at any one of their stores if it fails but you are on the right track with the hoses, belts etc. How many miles on this thing? Your fuel pump is inside the tank and they are pretty dependable. If you have a lot of miles on it and the trans fluid has not been changed I would not change it, 40K or so go ahead. If it does not have an external cooler that would be a really big plus. Lots of times replacing parts just because backfires at least they were playing well with others.

It has 76k on it.

Just trying to make it trustworthy. Yes no tranny cooler right now. I think I need to install one. It's a 4 cyl with O/D.

[WME]

A little paranoia is Ok, but don't get carried away with the program, going through your list IMHO here what to do.

1. Alternator: most factory alternator failures are the brushes wearing out, so carry a new set. If you do go with a rebuilt unit get some time on it before you head out for the big one.

2. Water pump: OK get a new installed and while your at it new belts and hoses. Don't forget the short coolant hose on the side of the block. Its a minor pain to change, so most of the time it gets ignored.

3. New radiator NAW, but change fluid to Toyota red, with new thermostat. Get new cap too.

4. External cooler: YES, YES. Also get a trannie temp gauge to keep track of things. P.S. don't use O/D except maybe down hill. The temp gauge will tell you when to use it and when not to..

Not on your list, change the fluid in the trannie when you add the cooler. With some help I've removed the cooler line and placed it in a bucket. Start the engine and let it pump out a qt of fluid and then start pouring in new fluid while its draining, after 8 qts it mostly new fluid. Alternate is to drain out 2 qts and refill, drive it till its hot and the next day do it again until you gone through 8-10 qts.

[dogre]

All good advice so far. One item you might want to check is whether you have a timing chain or timing belt. If it is an original timing belt you should consider having the old one replaced. I don't know what the 4 cylinder engines came with. I have a '91 with a 6 cylinder and I know I need to replace my timing belt soon. Belts are supposed to go 90K miles but when they sit unused for years who knows what has happened to them.

Oh, yeah, check the housewater inlet (where you fill your water tank from the outside to the actual tank) hose to see if it is brittle. If so, then replace it as it may be cracked and thus leak all over your floor when filling you water tank or when sloshing while you are driving.. Been there and done that.

Get a very high quality roll of duct tape! A 13mm ratcheting flex head wrench might be very useful if you find that you need to pull your toilet.

Dave in Chelan, WA

[waiter]

One other thing you may consider - How much Propane do you think you'll use. Heat, cooking, refrigerator

I upgraded my propane system (I had very bad leaks) with a new regulator, ACME quick disconnect, hoses, and some plumbing.

The hose that connects to the tank is now an ACME quick disconnect, and the hose is long enough that I can set a BBQ tank on the ground outside the compartment, and connect the BBQ tank to my system.

I plan on carrying a standard ole BBQ tank. When I stop for a day or two, I'll disconnect the horizontal tank, and connect the BBQ tank.

The BBQ tanks are vary popular and I see those "Exchange Cages" outside of all the big stores. I can exchange my empty BBQ cylinder for less than $20. The Horizontal tank must be refilled, you can't exchange it.

Check out the Modifications:

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3448

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[5Toyota]

When it comes to water pumps if you buy on ebay is brand new or rebuilt i would onely use new notrebuilt ibuy car quest or napa i like to look at it before i buy

[Spur]

Hi!

I want to start by saying I think it is GREAT that you and you wife are planning to take the kids on the road! So few kids these days get to learn by "viewing and doing". It sounds like you are getting some great mechanical advice from the awesome folks here (ALWAYS carry a good roll of duct tape!). I wanted to address the "backup" part of your plan. Stuff happens, especially on the road, and NO ONE wants this kind of thing to happen!! Carry a SPOT or some other means of asking for help, even when in a VERY remote area. Then it is simply a matter of following basic emergency prep rules. Food, water, shelter, batteries, and ENTERTAINING the KIDS! Freeze-dried food, treats for the kids, board games, books, a few hot wheels they've never seen before, and if you can snag some photo-voltaics, all the better. Keep it all as lightweight as possible, and then go have some FUN and post your pictures here. OH, and designate a couple of your friends (since your families aren't so great) as your check in folks. Someone needs to know where you are on a semi-regular basis, so that they can send the calvary if need be.

[xtioga]

your trip is such a great way to spend the important time with your family. i salute you sir! i am in the midst of a major interior/mechanical remodel on an '87 sunrader, some of the things i'm checking and fixing...engine: a compression test can tell you alot about what might need repair, the timing chain on the 22R & RE is a known weak point, the chain tensioners can be replaced alone or the chain and some steel tensioners could be called for, there are some good suppliers of toyota engine improvements LK enginering for one, i would do belts & hoses, thermostat maybe even water pump, fuel, air, oil filter, cap & rotor, plugs & wires. if your engine is injected the fuel pump is in the gas tank...when these fail on the road it can be a mess to work on. carry a spare and familerize yourself with the repair. if your motor has good compression and the sparkplugs are a nice light brown color, and your not using oil, your good to go for many a mile, just watch you don't over heat this motor, with a cast iron block mated to an aluminium head...the head can warp causing a blown gasket, the 22R in my old truck went 335 thousand, i did have the valves done at around 250...because i blew the head gasket and needed to pull the head. toyota made these very strong. have a safe and adventurous time!

[mgrijalva]

i'm not buying anything on ebay unless the product is either american made or of good reputation

something is wrong with the LIKE THIS button, it doesn't work....said i have passed my quota

[stamar]

Wow the very first thing I would do is change the transmission fluid 3 times.

for me personally I am not so worried about the famous toyota engine as I am the auto trans pushing 6000 lbs.

I would change it 3 times with DEXTRON VI ( at walmart for 4.27 a a quart) with the drain plug and the third time droop the pan, clean out the gunk, and change the filter.

I would at most carry an alternator and water pump with me not just replace them. New parts are faulty more often than old parts just die so you are reducing your reliability by taking out parts you know are working for parts you don't.

My friends 83 sunrader did indeed just blow the water pump with little warning on a trip, and they replaced it on the road. Overall one of the easier water pump jobs of any car. but take a very big wrench.

[stamar]

mine came with an external tranny cooler. Double check to see if yours did.

Mine is an 85 dolphin 300, the trans cooler is installed up top in a way thats blocking the radiator and condenser and should be installed low

when an auto manufacturer installs a trans cooler it does not block the radiator its usually at the bottom at an angle but this looks kinda slap it on by a coach manufacturer.

I would also get an oil cooler actually. A larger capacity radiator, the stock one is too small. You have all the right ideas there.

my other car right now is a 89 bmw 325, and it has a radiator about twice the size of the toyhomes, with a huge oil cooller running across the bottom.

and it weighs 2500 lbs vs 6000 lbs

one last thing, my dolphin came with bilstein hd shocks standard. So getting rancho should be a downgrade from any stock other than if they are shot. The tokicos are weak but reliable, a rancho is kind of chinese crap.

My old 79 came with tokicos and gabriel air shocks which were crappier. even when new, I bought new ones they already felt overworked.

Get some bilstein front shocks itll make all the difference. I would not waste time recomending anything expensive if it wasnt great.

[mgrijalva]

hmm, my 4cyl 85 dolphin, auto trans, 68K miles, has trouble shifting out of first gear. i had a transmission kit done. But maybe i should do it twice more times????? i really didn't understand how to change it 3 times.......

the trann kit did make a difference, it still has trouble shifting out of first, but it did get better.....

i manually shift it at around 48-50mph by flooring it/gas a bit so it speeds up, i let go [gas] abruptly forcing it to shift. if i don't do this, it feels/&sounds like it needs to shift.

i will look for a tranny cooler

thank u

[stamar]

it has a 14 mm drain plug same size as the oil plug

drain it out, put 2 1/2 quarts in through thee dipstick.

you will seee the stuff coming out is still dirty.

There is sometihnng you can do to change all 10 quarts at once called a passive flush, but dont worry about it. Just change it put in 2.5 quartys of dexron 6. drive 100 miles do it again ( you did say you already changed the filter right? cleaned out the pan?)

the fluid will be clean then. Just dropping the pan once gives you about 1./3 clean but leaves 2/3 dirty, plus is cleans out more dirt.

If the fluid has never been cleaned do it 3 different times and you should be good for life.

Youll notice the color change from brown to deep red. and odds are your shifting problem will disapear by the time you are done. Dexron vi is magic stuff.

[stamar]

by change 3 times I mean change 3 times in a short amount of time.

The perfect way is to drain once

drive 100 miles

change filter droop pan and wipe out the sludge.

at next oil change drain and fill from the 14 mm plug again

I think this is the best way to deal with a transmission that is dirty. doing a full fluid flush is going to clean too much gunk too fast.

I like to also remove the dirt that new fluid brings up

However look into doing a full passive flush, changing all the fluid at once through the trans coolant line with an assistant.

[Davidadro]

As stated by many here, it truly depends on how much you want to put into your TOY, and what one expects for the return on their investment. Not necessarily meaning resale mind you, as for me, I never plan to sell mine. For me, the decision came to either unload it for nothing or to commit to doing it right, how many years do I plan to keep it, and how much traveling am I going to do? Some may say I’ve gone overboard, but as I said, I plan to use mine as much as possible, on every vacation and after I retire, pulling my Harley wherever for the next 15 to 20 years.

I put in a complete rebuilt long block with a lifetime warranty, a new carburetor, water pump, smog pump, EGR components, coil, oil pump, fuel pump, alternator and radiator. Also while the engine was pulled, I had a new clutch and pressure plate put in, and of course, all new tune up parts, PCV, filters, cap, plug wires, and vacuum lines. So for the most part, everything under the hood is as new as one can attempt in a 30 year old motorhome. The A/C compressor was fine, and still blows nice cold air. The power steering pump is going to need replacing soon, and have yet to find one, as it's not a stock Toyota part on my Dolphin.

The next things on my list will be tires all around, and an updated exhaust system, I want to do the leaf springs in the back along with load adjusting coil shocks. I plan to redo the roof with EPDM materials to insure the best I can, that all the work I’ve done to the inside won’t be for naught from any water damage. I have confidence that I will be traveling down the road for the years to come. Good luck on your projects, keep us in the loop, and happy travels!

[stamar]

i was wondering what Id have to do to get power steering installed actually.

[Davidadro]

It's a pretty involved job labor wise, the column is fairly hefty, and cumbersome. I'm thinking one would have to get a power column, pump, lines and brackets from a junk yard. I would check the belt pulley too, as you would have to add it to your existing belt configuration, Use your manual for removal of the non power and replacing the power sections, to including the wiring connections for horn, signals, wipers, etc. I'm surprised that anyone would have originally purchased their Dolphin without power steering? It couldn’t have made that much difference in the price.

[stamar]

ooh both of the dolphins I had didnt have power steering.

Im suprised but I believe most do not.

actually the scariest part of that is installing a new pully. I do not believe you have to remove a steering column.

cruise would be nice. might be bad for the engine but nice.

that reminds me that manual steering has a place to add gear oil I should fill up.

[Davidadro]

Ah, so the power module will work with the non power column. I would think that you would have to at least pull part of it back to install the power assist unit, and then attach the column to it. I can’t image driving mine without the power assist, especially when stationary, or parking in tight areas.

[stamar]

yes parking in tight areas sucks.

[5Toyota]

maybe the coluim is the same. may just change gear box. the belt runs on the bottom crank pulley and the pump pulley. the front pump bracket i think has an adjustable tensher on it. had a truck and motor home with heave on it steering. not doing that anymore first thing i checked for on my new dolphon. was power steering.

[stamar]

ooh ya well in order to put the new pully on the row with the alternator you need to install a tensioner

thats what the manual steering is missing.

Or you find a water pump pully with 3 rows and put another belt on. Both parts exist. Im sure the tensioner way is easier and in junkyards.

then i belive the powersteering fluid on a toyota actually connects to the heater core to cool it down.

I also believe this hose is a one time use type of hose you need to buy new.

[Davidadro]

So I'm seeking first HEAVY reliability, and second a good backup plan.

Thanks a lot!

I guess the best type of backup plan begins with first doing everything possible before your trip, and during your trip so you never have to use it. With that said, there will be times where one will need to get out of a situation, and I prepare for such things with a pre trip check off list of the mandatory things I will always need to take with me. I have mine laminated, so I can just use a dry erase marker and use it the next time after wiping it off.

Include all of course your bedding, clothes, cell phone, food and the like, but also have a good over the top first aid kit, fire extinguisher, and survival supplies. Always include any and all tools one would need for a breakdown. Bring extra fluids for everything that has it, spark plugs and a couple universal back up plug wires. Have a screw, nut, bolt and fastener kit that has known sizes on your home and drive train. Carry the oversized can of Fix a flat for emergencies, and only use if you have no other option available. Flares, reflective triangles, and at least one good hydraulic jack (I have 2) that is small enough to carry, but big enough to handle the weight of your home in the rear. Zip ties, water proof sealant tape, muffler tape, a good axe, a folding shovel, some extra hoses and belts, you know, but have them on your list, and always use it before you leave. Never assume you have it, always check

Every stop, ALWAYS check lugs, tires and their inflation. Check all things that have fluids in them, even the windshield fluid, as one doesn’t want to be driving down the road and hit a swarm of some kind of flying bugs and find out only then they have run out after a few squirts. Do a complete walk around and look under the home, check for leaking brake fluid on lines and cylinders, oil drips, transmission and pumpkin drips, you know. Check lights and blinkers, as they have a tendency to go out when we are not looking for them.

AAA GOLD CARD is a must! It will pay for itself the first time you need it, and if you do need it, you will be very sad not to have made the investment, the big plus is a 100 mile towing radius benefit to the gold or premium card. I guess what I am saying is, you know what can happen, and just be mindful of the unexpected things. Make a list and always, always, always use it! If you do, you can feel confident that one has done all that is foreseen in most incidents, and will insure the best they can for safe and problem free trip.

There will to be those times that something goes wrong, but it's how well we prepare ourselves from the very beginning and during the trip that determines how detrimental it will end up being. Good luck and I wish you the best and happiest of future travels!

[mgrijalva]

thnk u, i understand now...but first i'll do the massive flush and then run 100 miles & then another kit (and stick to the dextron)

i guess these motorhome could b bottomless pits, but for me it is worth it to know things are running 'like new' mine cost $3K & i spent $2K on it already but don't seem to mind (the 1st thing was 6 tires)

for me i can drive from CA to see my grand kids in CO without taking up a bed over there, likewise in texas...i have family over there too....this is the best way to visit without wearing out your welcome right away In addition, i do not need to rent a car each time i go visit family anymore, nor am i dependent on others to drive me around while i am in town visiting

Edited August 31, 2012 by Derek up North

[Davidadro]

thnk u, i understand now...but first i'll do the massive flush and then run 100 miles & then another kit (and stick to the dextron)

i guess these motorhome could b bottomless pits, but for me it is worth it to know things are running 'like new' mine cost $3K & i spent $2K on it already but don't seem to mind (the 1st thing was 6 tires)

for me i can drive from CA to see my grand kids in CO without taking up a bed over there, likewise in texas...i have family over there too....this is the best way to visit without wearing out your welcome right away In addition, i do not need to rent a car each time i go visit family anymore, nor am i dependent on others to drive me around while i am in town visiting

Yeah, one never seems done completely. I wish you all the best with your Toyhome, and once you get her sound, and comfortable with knowing what it a concern and what is the unique mannerisms of yours, the driving them id fun and enjoyable. Happy travels!

[haffcke]

hmm, my 4cyl 85 dolphin, auto trans, 68K miles, has trouble shifting out of first gear. i had a transmission kit done. But maybe i should do it twice more times????? i really didn't understand how to change it 3 times.......

the tranny kit did make a difference, it still has trouble shifting out of first, but it did get better.....

i manually shift it at around 48-50mph by flooring it/gas a bit so it speeds up, i let go [gas] abruptly forcing it to shift. if i don't do this, it feels/&sounds like it needs to shift.

i will look for a tranny cooler

thank u

my 86 Dolphin 22re had this same problem, cable from tranny to throttle linkage had rusted and was not moving smoothly, replaced cable and housing no more problem's shifting.