Shocks

[ChrisInVT]

Local auto parts stores don't have any listings for shocks. I went to rockauto (where I order everything from) and all they have are the KYB's - and front only. There's a guy on eBay selling Gabriel shocks for about $16/each - but I have NO experience with them, and at $16/ea it makes me wonder how good they really are!

Now the catch is these aren't for my camper - but for my box truck. I was looking into getting those helper shocks (the ones with the mini-coilovers) but nobody has a listing for those either. With 240k of moving people's crap on the clock, the rear leaves and front torsion bars have pretty much had it. Truck has a very soft and squishy ride (doesn't help all the shocks are blown out). I'll probably put some airbags on the rear axle in the near future, but for now I just really need to get some shocks in that thing!

What do you guys use as a truck when you search rockauto? I tried the hilux, the pickup, the different models of pickup.. There's just no winning. Even when I went to U-Haul to rent a tow dolly they were trying to tell me my truck didn't exist. I was like dude, this truck WAS A FREAKING U-HAUL, don't tell me it doesn't exist. I don't care if it's the size of a shoebox, it's still a 1-ton. See the duals in the back? See the huge box on the back that use to say U-HAUL?

Sheesh.

[Diesel_Aggie]

I went to www.napaonline.com and put in 1989 Toyota Pickup, searched "rear shock" and then refined by "rear wheel drive". They list a KYB

1989 Toyota Pickup

Drive Trains : Rear Wheel Drive

Comments: w/ 1 Ton Chassis;KYB Brand - GR-2

Per Car Qty: 2

Part number ATM K344090

I'm sure you can go to the KYB website and find their number. This gives you a number to cross reference with.

http://eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?Model_Index=3Q17&Manf=All&SubChar=Q shows a listing for the motorhomes. Do the mounts look the same between the truck and RV?

[WME]

www.shockwarehouse.com

[ChrisInVT]

I went to www.napaonline.com and put in 1989 Toyota Pickup, searched "rear shock" and then refined by "rear wheel drive". They list a KYB

1989 Toyota Pickup

Drive Trains : Rear Wheel Drive

Comments: w/ 1 Ton Chassis;KYB Brand - GR-2

Per Car Qty: 2

Part number ATM K344090

I'm sure you can go to the KYB website and find their number. This gives you a number to cross reference with.

http://eshocks.com/b...f=All&SubChar=Q shows a listing for the motorhomes. Do the mounts look the same between the truck and RV?

Thanks for that! I searched the inventory of my local stores, and of course they don't have anything in stock (other than the NAPA brands that exclude 1-tons).

The mounts look the same between my box truck and motorhome. On my motorhome, the factory Toyota frame was torched off right behind the rear axle.

www.shockwarehouse.com

Sweet, they have some good prices.Now I just have to decide between the cheap route with the Monroe Monroe Gas-Magnums or the $100 more expensive route with the Bilstein Heavy Duties

[Derek up North]

Not saying these are best quality or best price, but might give you useful references for part numbers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230166580337&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330388922964&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[Diesel_Aggie]

If you plan to keep the vehicle spend the money on the Bilsteins. I don't have the mon the motorhome but have them on four of my trucks and on 3 of a friends trucks and all work well.

[gene j]

I put 4 Monroe gas magnums on my 92......made all the difference in the world.....also replaced the steering shock with a Monroe...the price was right for me. Put them on myself...it was a little bit of work because the original factory shocks were still there and the fittings were very tight. Certainly worth the money though.

[RVdaytrader]

just ordered my Yoda's xmas present... 4 monroe gas-magnum shocks....got them from shocksandstruts.com for $121.92 delivered for the 4 shocks.... 34953s front and 34803s back...advance auto wanted about $40 bucks more

RVdaytrader

[Derek up North]

Thanks for taking the time to post the Monroe Shock Part Numbers. I'm sure it will be a useful reference for someone down the road. It would be nice if everyone did the same when they find a good source. Be sure to let us know what your experience is like with the Monroes.

[cabinguy]

I have contact with a guy that has an e-bay store, and can match up just about anything to air shocks, heavy duty ones. Put them on my 86 Dolphin with no problems at all. Were less than one hundred delivered. Any interest? Contact me and I will forward this guys info on to you.

Cabinguy

[waiter]

I'm wondering if these would be a viable replacement for leaking airbags?

(I haven't tested my airbags yet, maybe this week when I get it inside the neighbors garage, (its 15Deg F outside today)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Derek up North]

I would say 'NO'. Firestone air springs (in larger sides) are used as the spring media in full size trucks and trailers. Not so air assisted shock absorbers. I think I'd only (perhaps) install them on Chinooks and Bandits.

[ChrisInVT]

I have contact with a guy that has an e-bay store, and can match up just about anything to air shocks, heavy duty ones. Put them on my 86 Dolphin with no problems at all. Were less than one hundred delivered. Any interest? Contact me and I will forward this guys info on to you.

Cabinguy

I still haven't replaced the shocks in the truck since it's not driven in the winter. I've never ran air shocks in anything before, do these require air lines like bags would? I already have an OBA setup so that's no issue.

[Derek up North]

Same method to fill.

[90toydolphin]

I went to www.napaonline.com and put in 1989 Toyota Pickup, searched "rear shock" and then refined by "rear wheel drive". They list a KYB

1989 Toyota Pickup

Drive Trains : Rear Wheel Drive

Comments: w/ 1 Ton Chassis;KYB Brand - GR-2

Per Car Qty: 2

Part number ATM K344090

I'm sure you can go to the KYB website and find their number. This gives you a number to cross reference with.

http://eshocks.com/b...f=All&SubChar=Q shows a listing for the motorhomes. Do the mounts look the same between the truck and RV?

i know it's been awhile since you posted. wondering if you were satisfied. i have a dolphin on an 89 chassis and in need of shocks. thanks, randy

[5Toyota]

A few years ago i bought 4 very heavy duty shocks from car quest. for my 1988 4wd. xtra cab. Very good shocks . But probly to hard for a moterhome. My son said they road stifer then his OLD RAMCHARGER. Shure no sway or bobin. ASi understand the car quest ones are rebranded Monroe gas matic

[rraabe]

So how do I know if I need shocks? Its a pretty heavy vehicle to do the bounce test meaningfully. I just got my 91 Dolphin, so have naught to compare with.

[Diesel_Aggie]

90ToyDolphin: I sold my Toyotahome before putting shocks on it. I have used KYB on other vehicles and they are a quality product.

rraabe: At this age you probably need shocks! There are several ways you can tell. There is a chrome piston that goes in and out of the larger part of the shock. If it is oily, scratched or pitted you need shocks. If you see oil leaking on the shock you need new shocks. There are rubber bushings on either end of the shock. If they are cracking or oblong, you need at least new bushings and probably new shocks. Shocks can also wear internally. On a regular vehicle you can do a "bounce test" by pushing each corner up and down repeatedly and seeing if it bounces more that 1-2 times. If it does you definitely need new shocks. This doesn't really worn on Toyotahomes as they are so heavily loaded they don't bounce well. You can also notice if the vehicles bounces or floats over bumps when going down the road, particularly at highway speeds. If it does, shocks could be the issue.

At 20-30 years old, Toyotahomes are due for new shocks and new rubber bushings in the suspension (leaf springs in particular). Many will need new leaf springs as well. While I never got to rebuild my Toyotahome suspension I have rebuilt many suspensions on older and/or high mileage vehicles and it makes a world of difference.

[90toydolphin]

i ordered the kyb's from shockwave.com. i pulled the rears off and did the extended/calapsed measurements and they sent me the kyb's and they were right on. having a real problem removing the fronts. the nut just won't break loose. i've been soaking with liquid wrench for three days now. any tricks out there? thought of heating the nut, afraid of setting the rig on fire. if i could get some asbestos might be able to protect the unit. maybe it wouldn't take that much heat??? any tricks out there i'm more than willing to try. thank for all the info on shocks everyone.

[Diesel_Aggie]

i ordered the kyb's from shockwave.com. i pulled the rears off and did the extended/calapsed measurements and they sent me the kyb's and they were right on. having a real problem removing the fronts. the nut just won't break loose. i've been soaking with liquid wrench for three days now. any tricks out there? thought of heating the nut, afraid of setting the rig on fire. if i could get some asbestos might be able to protect the unit. maybe it wouldn't take that much heat??? any tricks out there i'm more than willing to try. thank for all the info on shocks everyone.

Are you able to get to it from above with a deep socket and either an air or electric impact wrench? They often help with rusty bolts. If that won't work, would a crow's foot wrench give enough clearance to attach the impact to? Never tried but always heard lemon juice can help. Maybe try some other brand of penetrating lubricant such as PB Blaster or Yamaha's Lube-Zall. Maybe the different formulas well help.

There is a product call The Inductor http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41 that will heat the bolt in a safe manner. It's not affordable for most of us, me included, but maybe you could find one to rent.

What does the upper shock go through? I'm looking at the 90 Toyota truck factory shop manual and it's not real clear. And I don't remember what it looks like under there either. Can what it bolts to be removed from the truck with the shock attached? Had to do that on a VW Passat rear strut once and cut the chrome shaft with a torch to retrieve my upper strut mount that I needed to reuse.

Could you destroy the upper shock bushings enough to create a gap where you could try tightening the bolt first? Sometimes that will break enough rust loose. Your bushings may be so worn that you have play now. Beat on the wrench with a hammer both directions to try and free it up. Lube it again. Drink your favorite beverage. Repeat.

If you access the bolt with a combination wrench, put the box end on the bolt. Get the longest cheater pipe you can come up with and see what happens. Get a helper too. May need to remove the tire to get clearance for the pipe. If you have some packing foam to wrap the pipe and protect the fender in the direction you are headed that would be a great idea if you slip off or something breaks. In this case, breaking the nut would actually be a good thing.

Hope at least of of these helps you.

One more thing and this may sound real stupid. Most upper shocks will spin when you try to get the nut off. You often have to hold the shaft at the tip to prevent it from spinning with the nut. Sometimes it is notched where a small wrench will hold it. Other times you need channel locks or vise grips. Does your bolt not budge at all or have you just been spinning the whole assembly and not getting anywhere because the threads are turning with you?

[5Toyota]

when the shocks are junk hold rod with vice grips There is a special little Gem of a tool called a nut spliter made to drop on the nut you turn a thred rod pushing the nut in to a wedge spliting it . or cut the nuts off hammer and Chisel i have done that also . with some good gloves wrap a good haksaw blad ie lennex brand one end with tape and cut nut off tor the nut ant top of stud. old shocks are well known for difficult and dirty too remove for me i am leary of thorches ie fire maybe a sawsall. works great on muffler.

[Diesel_Aggie]

Thanks for teaching me about a new tool 5Toyota. Had no idea they existed.

http://www.sears.com/search=nut%20splitter should take you to the Sears website showing several nut splitters.

[90toydolphin]

thanks for a few new thoughts. will be trying a different brand of liquid. the nut splitter sounds like it may be the answer. not much room to get at it with a hacksaw. i've tried removing the rubber bushings thinking about getting a better grip with vise-grips. i'll avoid the torch ). i'll let you all know what finally works, it is coming off )

[Derek up North]

I'm a firm believer in PB Blaster. I've never tried it, but have heard that Kroil is very good. WD40 is lousy!

[5Toyota]

my nutspliter is the sears model general nut splitor. and yes a frend of myn owend a mower shopand he said that KROIL was the neatst stuff he ever used.

[Derek up North]

A penetrating oil test:-

http://www.practical...ing-oil-196347/

I can't find the original test results. I've seen it, but it's elusive at the moment.

I've yet to try the homebrew of ATF/acetone.

[90toydolphin]

i ordered some kroil. btw, you can't order from the factory unless you are in manufacturing, too bad they had a great deal. but amazon will sell it to anyone ). i'll let you all know if it works. no hurry, won't need the rig until may.

[Derek up North]

Yes, from what I've heard, getting hold of Kroil is not that easy. Strange marketing strategy!!

[90toydolphin]

might be a state by state issue because of what's in it. i ordered through amazon and being shipped from midway auto in texas. hope to see it here by the end of this week.

[90toydolphin]

today was the day i decided the shocks were coming off one way or another. got the kroil and for three days kept the the nuts wet and beat on them a little. it didn't solve the problem. i am pretty sure at some time in the future the kroil will come in very handy, so it's and investment. so after the soaking with three different products i kept trying to hold the shaft with vise grips until i had destroyed the square top of the shaft and nothing was left to hold on to. so got out the drill, two size bits and center punch. i don't have any jack to lift the truck up so did it all with the wheels on and turned to the right to make a little room. after creating a little dent with the center punch, drilled a pilot hole clear through then used a 3/8 bit drilling out a bigger hole. the bit was on the dull side so i sort of heated the unit while doing it, in fact the rubber began to smoke some by the time i made it through. so now i bravely grabbed the threaded part above the nut, was afraid of messing up the threads before but had tossed caution out the door, and this time it turned very easily. not sure if it was the heat, the oil finally doing it's thing or the fact about 25% of the nut was gone, but i really didn't care. so with purpose and direction i attacked the other side. did the drilling thing, grabbed the vise grips and broke off the top part of the shaft leaving the nut in place. instead of drilling through the middle of the nut i had drilled right at the top. so now i tried holding the top half of the shock itself with a pipe wrench, not quite enough room to get a good hold, tried a chisel to maybe spread the nut a little at the top edge, no luck. tried drilling out the rubber to make room for the vise grips below the nut, that didn't work. with quite an investment in time and getting a more determined as it passed, i decided i would drill away at the nut until it fell off in necessary. so armed with the center punch and a 3/16 bit, i already had broke the smaller one for the pilot hole, i started drilling again. the second hole i placed right below the original i had done too high, IT WORKED!!! with very little effort it turned, i had won. thank you all for ideas, because of all i see others do here i had the encouragement i needed to be successful. so now i just have to wait for the new ones, probably monday. i did get a few other things done today too, resealed along one entire side the top side edge, new vent covers and the little holder goodies that hold the compartment doors up out of the way. once the shocks are done i'll be putting in an inverter to run the tv and dvd player and we'll be ready short of a wash job and oil change to head to disney land via hwy 1 from monterey area all the way there and only have to get on one freeway for just a couple of miles, can't wait. btw, AAA site has the best mapping system i've run across so far to find ways around freeways.

[90toydolphin]

the new shocks finally came, they were out of the fronts temporarily. went back on without a hitch and the ride is much improved. the swaying has decreased as well as tracking better over all. the bouncing when coming to a stop also went away. the shocks i took off were totally worn out, no resistance at all. as mentioned earlier i got them from shockwave.com. money well spent.

[ChrisInVT]

I still haven't replaced the shocks in my truck, haven't really used it to justify the expense. Kinda just sits around collecting snow, just like the camper

[george101]

Just a word to the wise on shocks for 78 pickup/chinook....

You can use an impact wrench to take OFF the bolts for the rear shocks, but DO NOT use an impact wrench to put the bolts back ON!! Impact wrench has too much power.

I did this today, and the impact wrench ripped the head right off the bolt. The rest of the bolt is stuck in the flange, with no way to get it out but drill. Drilling it out is not fun. Spent an hour drilling with a titanium bit and got about 1/4 of an inch. Think I'm going to need to have a shop weld on a new screw to the outside of the flange and just leave the rest in there.