RVdaytrader

$85,000 ??? ... for that price you would think he would have put in a 3.4 V6

wow, I really thought it WAS mold looking at the cab pics...LOL .. glad for you it isn't.

The inside does look nice, but the cabover and ceiling by the door has water damage. Check how bad it is and check under the mattress.

AUCTION RESULT Winning Bid USD $28,250 by RBDP Auction Ended Friday, February 19 at 4:09pm Bids 47 21,810 views |

Everything I read says to advance your timing at high altitude. Here is one article. http://rmrclc.com/WaltsWorkBench/10-2000 Attitudes about altitude.html#:~:text=Your ignition timing is probably,about 8 to 10 degrees.

I have a switch like that by my sink and it is for the water heater........now yours may be something different.

Take a look at this site....all years and all models of toyota rvs are there...you can see the insides of most. http://www.toyotarvforsale.com

Your post got me looking for a front window covering and I saw this..... would look good I think. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Scene-4-River-and-Trees-Truck-Tailgate-Vinyl-Graphic-Decal-Wrap/332334509763?hash=item4d60ae2ec3:m:mRg0QKNQc-dfNlnHZ7SWZVg

Try this....remove the two hoses going to the heater and join them together.....then pressurize the cooling system and see if it holds pressure.If pressure holds its a good chance it IS just a leaking heater core. I'm thinking the radiator cap should have opened and blown off steam before the heater core gave if the core was still in good shape.

I had a heater core that just started leaking from corrosion in one of my past cars...yours is 35 years old so it is possible.

Do you use a pressure regulator to lower the city water pressure?...really don't need more than 40# and city water is usually a lot higher than that.

hellooooooooooo Dave......hmmmmm, guess we will never know if it worked or not!!

Go to and join this site...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/ ...lots of gearheads there...the same motors that our RVs have...join and type in what you posted here.

If you are getting 15.5 to 17.3 MPG, you are doing WAY better than most!....I have the 6 cylinder and get 11 to 13.

If I were you, I would pay someone to check it out for you...mechanical and body wise. A "small" leak can cause lots of rot.

It's amazing how good some of these RVs can look from the outside while being so rotted out.

wow...what insurance company do you have? I'm really surprised they would cover that!

Seems you can buy a delay on make timer for the fan circuit and do the same thing.

Look to see if the heat shield is still above the converter.

I have a 1989 seabreeze and it looks like our tanks are NOT ABS plastic...see pics. The good news is the piece should come out of the tank fitting cause it is not cemented in. The bad news is since it is not abs, I dont think ABS cement will stick to it to repair the crack. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29614035/gotomsg/29614311.cfm#29614311

"He says the VSS has been tested and is bad".....hmmmmm, any chance they were wrong and the sensor is good and the ECM is bad?? Sure wouldn't be the first time a dealer mechanic was wrong!

Really...if it does not have the full floating axle, imo don't buy it. If it does, check for rot in the cabover by checking under the mattress , the walls and ceiling...tap the areas with your knuckle and if u get sharp RAP sounds it is good...if u get dull THUD sounds it is rotted and very expensive to have someone fix it!

yes, the compressor is trying to start and is tripping off on overload....either the compressor is bad (shorted or locked rotor), start capacitor is bad, or you may be trying to run it on too small an extension cord. Usually (not always) the start capacitor will bulge if it goes bad so you can check that.

This may help in your search ... Re: 1988 Century. A340E need speedo sender unit and/or advice

It looks just like the battery isolator in my 1989 seabreeze.