gene j

Even if I don't use water it still stays on....thermostat adjustable?

I'll turn it on and let it run and see what happens...do you know if the thermostat is adjustable?

Should the water heater on my 92 Dolphin cycle on and off like my water heater at home? When i start it up the water certainly gets hot but the heater seems to stay on...I can hear the flame going strong. I haven't let it run for any great length of time as I always end up shutting it down out of apprehension, but I think I've let it run long enough that it would turn off by itself if it was working correctly. I'm just not sure how to check it out....does anyone have any input for me...thanks.

Do you have any literature or links that show the awning you used?

That's actually what I've been using, but the awning seems like it would be a better choice. Not sure if I want to invest the kind of money I've been quoted though.

Those springs certainly seem like they would help...thanks for the links....I'll give it a couple of more months and if things don't jar loose I'll just live with it. If not, I'll try the springs. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info. I was just concerned that the hard ride would jar things loose. I'm probably just being over cautious...thanks again.

I guess I'll just ride out the bumps, thanks.

I had a very nice rack welded to the rear of my 92 Dolphin. It took some extensive shop welding to do it right but it did add some weight to the back. Does anyone know how I would lift the back up without loosing the efficiency of my new shock absorbers. I do have airbags and usually keep them about 50lbs around town and higher when loaded on a trip...the problem with that is the ride is pretty rough over any bumps. The airbags do give me the lift I need but I was wondering if there would be some more permanent fix that would lift without compromise on the ride, leaving the airbags free for loaded trips? When the air is out of the bags it just looks like its a bit too low.

I would really like to have an awning installed. There is a lip that runs across the top where an awning would install, not sure if that is the function for it, but it doesn't appear that there ever was an awning. Can anyone give me some input on how to approach this?

I put 4 Monroe gas magnums on my 92......made all the difference in the world.....also replaced the steering shock with a Monroe...the price was right for me. Put them on myself...it was a little bit of work because the original factory shocks were still there and the fittings were very tight. Certainly worth the money though.

That's exactly what I thought "no way"....thanks for the info

91 v6 what would you expect the cost to be for a valve adjustment? Looks like a lot of work to get to the valves.

If you read my post to Derek you'll see the situation. I could have probably put some reconditioned heads or something on when the motor was apart but not sure if that would have had to go through Toyota, probably so since they were doing the recall. That put's it out of the ballpark as far as $$$$. I'm getting good gas mileage and have made several trips to local camping spots in the mountains so there was a lot of climbing though not any great distances....ran like a champ other than the valve noise becoming more obvious when it would downshift up the hills.

The engine 98k, had the head gasket recall done at 96k, about 4-5 months ago. They had it all apart and I saw the heads sitting on the mechanic's bench. Not sure if valve adj is included in that recall...I know certain things were extra. It has always sounded the same, even after the engine was apart. I would seem a shame I missed an opportunity like that to have the valves adjusted or they might have mentioned it if it was extra.

My 91 v6 makes a tapping sound that increases with rpm. It sounds like a single lifter to me. It isn't always very loud and it doesn't affect the engine performance, at least as far as I can tell. I'm wondering what I should be aware of regarding this noise. I've put about 2,000 miles on the Dolphin since I bought it and it runs great, just concerned about this tapping. Has anyone else had experience with this problem, and if so what did you do.

FYI: Today, 9/22/10, I went to Harbor Freight to buy two of their $29.95 RV leveling scissors jacks and I noticed their 12 v electric scissors jacks that were originally selling for around $70 were on clearance for $19.95. I bought two figuring at that price they would be worth a try (they said I could return with receipt). They have their limitations on height and only provide 4000 lbs lift if extended beyond 6 inches, max is about 13 inches; for minor leveling they worked fine. I placed them under the cab frame just in front of the rear wheels and had them extended beyond 6 inches before they met the frame. They worked pretty cool. I read somewhere on this site where someone had actually mounted them under the frame with the controls wired into the coach. Doesn't seem to hard to do but I'm going to keep mine in the plastic cases they come in. They also included extra fuses and an adapter with battery clamps on one end and a female 12v receptacle on the other. I also bought the $29.95 RV jacks just in case as they have a 5000 lb lift capacity. I'm sure they will be out of them soon so if interested you better hurry.

It is the stock tank....removing the gas cap always gives the hiss of air being released....don't know if that means anything.

My 92 Dolphin bogs down when I turn and then accelerate and it seems to do this only when the fuel gauge is at about 1/8 of a tank. If I fuel up it stops. Could the engine actually be getting gas starved when I turn on a low fuel level.

I want to mount the generator on the rear also. Went to a long time welding shop here and spoke to the owner. He's done quite a few of these. He starts by welding reinforcement from the truck frame and incorporate that into the existing coach frame. The extension frame material they use for the coach is much lighter gauge than the truck frame, as you probably already know. From there he is going to build me a rear storage rack. He assures me that this will be plenty strong and handle the weight bounce okay. I want to mount a 110 lb generator back there, and have some room for a couple of bikes. Bringing it in on Monday for the work. It's not cheap. $125 for the reinforcing and another $250 for the rack. Oh well, I live in the Nevada desert and there's plenty of outback territory to plant yourself on for the night. Tired of hauling the gen in and out of the coach. I also want to be able to run the A/C occasionally while driving. It's plenty warm here....today was 106 and that's the summer norm. I'll let you know how it comes out.

Yes, that's the piece i was talking about. Mine has a lot of damage from the battery exploding as I mentioned above. The screw part is completely melted but I do believe the vacuum hoses are still connected. There is a little, what looks like air filter or something, that is also attached to it and is damaged. I guess I'll be making a trip to the junkyard.

You might look at this unit, http://store.jandsrvparts.com/gr-3500rv.html It weight 110 lbs and will power a roof A/C. Sam's Club has the same unit except it's not the RV model for $409. The Honda would be the one to get but they are very expensive.

I imagine you've already seen the Honda Handi, the same unit but lighter with wheels and handle, http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/modeldetail.aspx?page=modeldetail&section=P2GG&modelname=EU3000i%20Handi&modelid=EU3000iHAN I sure would like that unit but way way out of my range. The rear bumber does look nice but I would trade it in a minute for a real bumper and ladder. I'll check with some welding shops. Thanks.

Could be....if I could figure out how to upload a picture I'd send one. I'm leaving well enough alone right now. Thanks for your input.

My 1992 Dolphin doesn't have a rear bumper or ladder. I have a portable generator that weighs 110 lbs and would like to somehow carry it on the rear of the rig. I've even thought of attaching it to the front but don't know how that would affect air flow to the radiator. Does anyone have any ideas on how this might be done?