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I currently don't see another option but patience and wd40 with occasional heating up. It's just too tight in there and the vice grips are damaging the fittings. 

 

Other question I just thought. How do I get it out later. It looks extremely tight on the bottom. Not sure if it will fit there but I think that's the only way right? 

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I currently don't see another option but patience and wd40 and an occasional heating. It's just too tight in there and the vice grips are damaging the fittings. 

 

In another note, once loose, how do I get it out? It looks really tight on the bottom but I imagine this is the way to go. 

 

 

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is the steering column disconnected at the top of the box? if so you should be able to lift it out

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I decided to remove the air intake piece and lift it out with the line attached and loosen the fittings afterwards. I was able to remove the fittings then and will send in the box to powersteering.com

 

Few new questions now:

  1. One of the screws that was holding the air intake unit in place broke. Where would be the best place to get a replacement?
  2. I will replace both hoses, the one on the out line as well as the one from the reservoir tank into what I believe is a cooler. Should I just bring the hose to Napa and have them give me an adequate replacement?
  3. The fitting for the out line took quite a toll. Can I buy a replacement somewhere or do I have to use the same one? It is not terrible but a new one might be better for the future.

 

Thank you all. Wouldn't have been able to get it out without you :)

 

 

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Edited by KonCon
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If you have no luck with local suppliers, any company that manufacturers hydraulic hoses can make you a replacement. Google search for companies near you.

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so what's the part in your hand by the bolt?

  the tube nut and line should be available at  say napa.

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It is the other part of the broken bolt with the nut on it. I assume the nut was supposed to be fixed to the other side to the frame. All the other nuts are fixed, but this one was loose. I grabbed it with a wrench and eventually the bolt broke. 

Edited by KonCon
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if that was holding the airflow meter, just use a nut and washer where it was, or just leave it off

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey everyone. My steering box rebuild has been completed by Marty @ Powersteering.com and it is supposed to arrive back here tomorrow. I have a camping trip this weekend and I would like to try to get the rig fixed before that so that I don't have to use a tent.

I was hoping I could get any advice that comes to your mind before putting it back together regarding:

 

  1. Connecting steering shaft - How do I do it. will it need some tapping with a hammer or should it slide in fairly easy?
  2. Steering shaft alignment - Will it be obvious how the alignment marks should align or do they leave room for misinterpretation?
  3. Pitman arm alignment - Same question here. Is it somewhat self explanatory or doe it leave room for misinterpretation?
  4. Pitman arm installation - Do I put the pitman arm on the receiving part and then just tighten the crown nut until tight and put the pin through or anything else that needs to be considered
  5. Any specific recommended order for putting it back in (For example: 1. fix PS box to frames with bolts, 2. reinstall pitman arm, 3. reinstall steering shaft,)
  6. Last but not least, I was told that i need to bleed the power steering fluid system. How do I do it? Any recommendations?

Thank you all so much.

Super pumped to soon have a rig that is not dripping everywhere.

 

 

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Use a new pitman arm and new 32mm bolt, not the old ones. I’ve attached a link that you should read. This is a well written article.

 

https://www.roundforge.com/articles/pick-pitman-all-about-stock-and-aftermarket-toyota-pickup-and-4runner-pitman-arms/#Toyota_Pitman_Arm_Installation_

 

 

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unless you used a pickle fork to remove it there is no reason to replace it

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4 hours ago, KonCon said:

Thank you @fred heath, I'll read through it later. To help with my overall understanding, can you explain why you recommend using a new pitman arm and not the old one?

 

Thank you very much.

Think of your pitman arm as a ball joint attached to to a metal extension. Ball joints need replacement over time. So do pitman arms. Unless you know for certain the age of your current arm it makes sense to change it out now rather than wait and have to do it later. That arm is crucial to maintaining steering integrity. It just makes sense to do it now with everything open. You might want to do your idler arm at the same time.

 

 

Edited by fred heath
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Thank you very much @fred heath for the explanation. I don't want to spend more money as of right now as I had a lot of other expenses for some other vehicles. If it still is OK, I would prefer to keep it.

 

Any thoughts on the order how to put everything together? Here is my current thought.

 

  1.  reinstall in and out line fittings on the box.
  2. Bolt box back to frame and connect the in line to the power steering pump.
  3. connect steering shaft to steering wheel part. Ensure alignment (not sure how but I hope I will see that)
  4. Reinstall all parts that have been taken off to access the box.
  5. with box installed but pitman arm not connected and motor OFF - fill PS fluid reservoir and turn steering wheel left and right about 20 times. refill in between if necessary (according to this video)
  6. turn motor on and steer left to right another 5 times or so to make sure all air is out of the system.
  7. Connect pitman arm, making sure it aligns as it should (not sure how but I hope it will be clear once I look at it or watch a youtube video).

Does this make sense? Or should I do the reinstallation of the pitman arm prior to bleeding the system?

 

Thanks y'all

 

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as far as bleeding goes, pitman arm on or off doesn't matter. tightening the pitman arm nut would be alot easier with the box installed

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One more question came up. Is there anything I can use to make sure the fittings don't leak after installing. I thought of Teflon tape but the instructions from powersteering.com says DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE. The fittings don't have any additional sealing part on them. 

 

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Edited by KonCon
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just make sure the part where you have the tee is smooth and shiny. also the same for the part it fits against

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no, where the yellow golf tee is. it seals the tube to the steering gear

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Oh that makes sense. Thank you. I'll make sure to clean it up real good. The counter part is inside the gearbox. I assume that this has been cleaned properly by powersteering.com. We'll see once it is in... 

So nothing special to do to seal the thread right? 

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The threads on that fitting don't do the actual sealing in this scenario; you can clean them up a little with a wire brush, but it's the flared portion of the tubing, against the fitting on the gearbox, that needs the most attention (like extech said).

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Does anyone have any images on how I can find the alignment for the steering shaft and the pitman arm? I can't find any marks.

For the shaft i think the screw will go where the flat part is but how do I make sure I get the thing in the right teeth? With the pitman arm I don't see any alignment at all. Pretty lost right now. 

Thanks 

 

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If you take the time to read the link I posted earlier in this thread it will answer most of your questions. This is a screenshot from that link showing pitman arm index marks.

 

 

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My bad. I received the box back with the arm installed so this is all aligned. Any alignment I need for the other end of the steering arm to the part that is doing the actual steering of the wheels? 

And what about the alignment of the shaft to the steering wheel? 

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the tapered end goes into the center link. no adjustment. now turn the wheels by hand to point straight ahead.  with steering wheel straight, the splines should line up. if you missed by one spline the pinch bolt wont go in

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front alignment includes centering steering wheel. if it doesn't bother you it wont hurt anything.

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