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Brakes just started getting soft


masinoshane

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Breaks started getting soft until I pump the pedal once or twice Could it be the caliper pins need to be greased up? I know it has some sort of pressure equalizing deal in the back And I heard of people eliminating it any help here would be appreciated. I was also wondering what kind of brake pads

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could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad

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12 minutes ago, extech said:

could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad

We only have 24000 miles on it You think it could be as sticky caliper pins in the front brakes?

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it's possible. usually that causes dragging brakes, squeeking, heat build up.  your symptoms would suggest the pads are moved away from the rotor too far. warped rotors can do that, but you would feel a shudder when braking

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loosen the master cylinder mounting nuts enough to pull it forward a bit. if you see fluid come out the master cylinder is bad

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1 hour ago, extech said:

could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad

I had all brand new tires except for the one on the inside of the driver's side and the the guy Who replaced the tire? brought it to my attention. That they might not go back on due to overtooking I had.  Ordered some new lug nuts for that side that are left handed. Does? Checking the brakes in the back require l thisassembling the wheel bearings and all that.

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unfortunately yes. axle comes out, then disassemble the bearing retention parts. if doing this i would have new inner axle seals ready on hand 

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No, checking the brakes does NOT require the wheelbearings be touched.  Those are drum brakes, yes? If yes then 100percent they do not require bearings be disturbed.  Same with discs actually.

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Nice to see your ignoring our website glitch, IdahoDoug,  but ignoring things like repacking bearings and replacing seals after you've already had to go as far as removing the axle is just dumb. Look up full float axle

Linda S

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Hmm will recheck this design.  I've owned and replaced brakes on 3 Toyota 1ton full floater rear axles and still have two.  Tx for heads up, and yes if you have to open rear bearings its foolish NOT not redo brakes at that time.  Interesting....

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Wow, yeah - looks like I am wrong here as pointed out. When I got the Sunrader, i looked at how to service bearings n watched a couple 6 lug Toyota vids.  They show the drum just coming off the lug studs.  But those are not full floater style.  Wow what a pain to do brakes!

 

We just got back from 3 days camping in N central WA state near Republic, and I re watched the vids.

 

Thanks for the correction!

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On 6/25/2023 at 9:12 PM, IdahoDoug said:

Wow, yeah - looks like I am wrong here as pointed out. When I got the Sunrader, i looked at how to service bearings n watched a couple 6 lug Toyota vids.  They show the drum just coming off the lug studs.  But those are not full floater style.  Wow what a pain to do brakes!

 

We just got back from 3 days camping in N central WA state near Republic, and I re watched the vids.

 

Thanks for the correction!

I really wish Idaho Doug was right,as i  had a sudden rush of self-confidence after reading his post.

But now not so much. dose anyone have a ballpark cost on this full service

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Masino,

 

If you want to be sure, post a picture of your rear wheels with no hubcap on (if you have hubcaps..).  There were some crossover years, and I'm not good enough to know what they were, but a photo will confirm if you have a full floater rear dually.

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Doug he has a full floater and there are no crossover years unless you consider the fact that the full float first showed up on 8/85. Your a car guy. Remember when the new years models started being available in the fall of the year before? 8/85 is really an 86 model even on the vin. 

Linda S

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12 hours ago, IdahoDoug said:

Masino,

 

If you want to be sure, post a picture of your rear wheels with no hubcap on (if you have hubcaps..).  There were some crossover years, and I'm not good enough to know what they were, but a photo will confirm if you have a full floater rear dually.

20230302_124014.jpg.b40ff78e7bf62846bdd4d218ac00a901.jpg

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Despite low miles, age causes havoc on brakes. In the motorcycle world pad separation due to age is a very significant concern. The pad, even with little wear, brakes free from the steel back plate due to the age of the materials being out in elements. There are 3 rubber hoses in your brake system: one for each caliper up front, and one feeding the 2 wheel cylinders in back. Check for brake fluid leaks at the master cylinder and follow the brake lines to each caliper and to the wheel cylinders. Rubber parts do not age well. I'm betting the rubber brake hoses have a recommended replacement interval and it is not once every 35 years.  I highly recommend a brake inspection (either yourself, or whomever you take the machine to) based on the age of the vehicle. 

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Yep, car guy.  But no idea how the cab/chassis market split out their years.  Only commonality is they had to also conform to whatever year's emissions they were built to match.  But cab/chassis had incredible variations and I'm not up to speed on it and never was.  So that's a full floater in the photo - confirmed.  Good advice on the rubber lines for all of us.  Often these are remarkably cheap.  I bought a full set for one of my collector cars for $40 on Rock Auto as an example.  I'd imagine older Toyota trucks like we have under our campers still have a lot of parts support and brake parts will be identical to the every day truck on which it's based, though the dualies/foolies will be specific brake lines.

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