Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Alright I have both sides back together now with drums back on and bearings adjusted, but not locked down.  I went into the cab to pump the brakes and operate the parking brake.  My assumption, based on poking about inside here, is that operating the parking brake spins the adjuster out.  So I did this about 10-15 times.  

 

(This picture makes it look a lot rustier than it actually is.  When rinsed off with brake clean, it all looks brand new.  Including the shoes.)    

 

 

F0A1F790-F673-4527-857B-662978FE88D3.jpeg

 

When I released it and went to check, the left side (above in picture) was again locked up.

 

I had pulled both sides apart, inspected, cleaned up, and put back together.  The only issue I found was bent and very rusty brake shoe holding pins.  This side had slightly more surface rust where the shoes sit on the backing plate.  I took a few extra minutes to clean this up with some emery cloth and extra care in allaying caliper grease.  For the self adjusters (on both sides) I used anti seize.  High temp wheel bearing grease.  

 

I can't stress enough that I found nothing "obviously" wrong, beyond the bent brake pins (now replaced) and the rusty slide surfaces (now cleaned and lubed).  But it had again locked up when I did my testing and adjusting.  I cycled the parking brake lever again, and it freed right up.  Drums feel correctly adjusted, but I haven't puled them back off to double check.  

 

I am stuck at a weird crossroad point...

 

I don't know if this is a simple case of "operator error" and I am having this happen due to perhaps the odd dash parking brake lever not releasing that last 1-3 little clicks.  It does seem to happen right after releasing the parking brake.  I can't swear to it, but I am fairly sure every lockup has occurred right after parking it, and cycling the parking brake...  If so I can finish putting it back together and take more care with the parking brake release.  I also need to try and adjust the park lever slightly to get the lock to always engage.  I could probably not rely on the PB so much if so.  But... I do like the extra security of using it.

 

 

Or perhaps I still have an actual issue that I am simply missing...  ???  Parking cables move easily when I tug underneath the truck.  I can hear the lever mechanism in the brakes working and releasing.  Everything in there looks brand new.  No leaks on the wheel cylinders.  Fresh pins, retaining springs, and cups now.  

 

The only parts I feel aren't fully vetted, are the master and proportioning valve.  Everything else has been gone over pretty darn good.  I see no reason why the master would do this.  And should be able to rule out the valve, as it only locked up on one side.  I still have the axles out, makes turning and checking much easier.  

 

Not sure how to proceed...  I am going to go back out I guess, verify both sides are free then just pump the ever living heck out of the brakes for a few minutes and see what happens.  Without touching the parking brake.  Then see what happens after I cycle it a bunch of times.  

 

Edited by thewanderlustking
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Weird Sh*t.

The rubber hose going from the frame to the T near the differential. It's torn inside and will act 1 way check valve.

As I remember the self adjuster works when you back up and apply the brakes.

New brake cylinders or DIY rebuilt?

A couple of correct sized brass T and some line caps you can remove the pressure valve

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if the flex hose was bad both sides would lock up.  correct that backing adjusts the brakes, so the problem is in the park brake system

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was my thought too, a bad hose would lock both sides.  Still, I plan on replacing all three soft hoses before I do the super duper flush.  I think I grabbed a gallon of DOT 4 for an extra bump up too.

 

Ugh I just lost most of my response...  Alright I am going to go beat on the brakes and parking brake some more and see what happens.  So far I haven't had another lockup.   I will see if another abuse session causes it to occur again.  So far it has still only done it the one time.  

 

Wheel cylinders appear to have been replaced in the last 5yrs or so, but no record in my piles of receipts.  The rubber is soft and both still have modern looking and soft bleeder caps.  These seem to crumble here after more than 5-6yrs.  Not a very exact carbon-dating methodology...  LOL

 

   

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Set the parking brake HARD, then release it. Crawl under the rig and check the tension on each side of the emergency brake cable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright I will try that exactly next time (tomorrow probably) I work on it. I did a variation where I tugged on each cable and verified it pulled the internal lever locking the drum. 
 

But I also haven’t gotten it to lockup again, other than the initial time today right after putting it back together. 
 

For a reference point, I pulled the PB handle 3 clicks at a time until I couldn’t turn the drum anymore.  It took 15 clocks. So this probably isn’t a case of I didn’t fully release it. It’s out a significant amount before it stops. 
 

I would be much happier I’d I could get it to lock up again before I put it all back together and on the ground…. 
 

Adjusting the adjusters…. So with them all the way in, the drums go on snuggly. Not the most reliable reference  point, but it’s hard to tell between brake drag and freshly repacked bearing drag on this setup. I am thinking I might pull the parking brake 9-10 clicks asks then adjust until tight. 
 

I am thinking I will also loosen the bearings bit more.  I didn’t change bearings, so they probably don’t  need to be as tight as fresh  ones. 

Edited by thewanderlustking
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm...  There is one thing I didn't look at closely enough to see if it could be a problem.  If the way the front parking brake levers work could possibly cause it to unbalance and not release one side...  I can't picture how that could be the case, but a quick glance up there and it wasn't really pretty and clean. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AS far as i know and the Toyotas  i have 1987 dolphin  and my 1988 4 w d xtra cab .the  brakes on all the old time Toyotas adjust the rear brakes two ways . turning the star whells with a brake spoon. and adjusting the brakes by repeatly pulling the parking brake lever . until the travel shortens. their is also a turnbuckle adjustment underneath between the front and rear cables. that is where you can take exc cable stretch.

Edited by 5Toyota
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well my plan for today was to button up the brakes and pop the axles back in, refill the rear end, and install the transmission temp sensor.  And instead I spent 4hrs looking for the stupid wheel bearing lock screws...  Then another half hour looking for replacements online.   I have 4 new ones ordered, I will put two in my emergency spares.  I probably could just put one back in on each side. Maybe I will for now, but I like the redundancy having two gives.  

 

Pulling the parking brake repeatedly didn't accomplish anything.  I did this about 30 times then pulled the drum back off and it hadn't moved the adjuster at all.  And it is new(ish).  I had taken it apart and coated in anti seize lube too.    

 

But when I tug on the cable inside the rear shoe assembly, it does grab and adjust the star.  Normally I would use a screwdriver, brake spoon, or pliers to adjust the star.  I usually pull the drum on and off to do this though, not practical in this case.  And doing it with the drums installed, it ALREADY feels like just the right amount of drag, and the adjusters are all the way in.  I know the brakes are working, and the parking brake is too.  So perhaps leaving the adjusters out and a couple stops in reverse will get it more even than messing with it.  And this job just needs to get buttoned up for now.  I will be back in there anyways soon enough...  

 

I posted up a cool tool I found here in my 1986 Mini Cruiser, a Comedy! thread.  I haven't found a "procedure" for utilizing it.  The job can easily be done without it, BUT utilizing it with specific torque specs and perhaps an angle gauge when you back it off would give for nice and even/repeatable bearing preload.  I will probably grab it as I love collecting dorky specialized tools I will only use once...  😄  

 

876C8BE8-81AF-49AF-8A9D-88DCB4FC2517.jpeg.c0056f86a5e748eae2f965e4b5562195.jpeg 


 

                          

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I  had "problems" with the lock screws, to expedite return to service I used a set of cup point set screws. Worked out fine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They were a PAIN to get lined up with the holes in the locating washer/plate.  I pulled the spinning weird nut thing off and lined up the holes with the pins on the hub for reference and then was able to get it all lined up.  Not sure I trust the geometry of using set screws for that application, but I ordered some (proper replacements), so I don't have to think about that too deeply haha!  It probably doesn't matter.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by thewanderlustking
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 3/21/2022 at 9:32 PM, thewanderlustking said:

They were a PAIN to get lined up with the holes in the locating washer/plate.  I pulled the spinning weird nut thing off and lined up the holes with the pins on the hub for reference and then was able to get it all lined up.  Not sure I trust the geometry of using set screws for that application, but I ordered some (proper replacements), so I don't have to think about that too deeply haha!  It probably doesn't matter.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

so what were the final results of your brake job bud, did they adjust by backing up or was it the e-brake?

 

im having similar issue and not sure if im just crazy or not

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...