Any 22RE performance experts on here??? Some random questions...

[thewanderlustking]

Merry Christmas everyone!  Well it is mostly official, my Mini Cruiser is finally on the road again!!!  "Mostly" as I haven't taken it out for a real drive out of the neighborhood and onto the highway yet, but will be getting some miles in soon.  I am studying up so I can attack the next phase, smooth running, and then 'squirting and performance mods.  

 

1)  Do our RV's have special spec-ed out cams?  If so what are the details?  I have seen more than a few mentions of "RV Spec" listed in relation to long block assemblies.  A set of valve springs, and some other items lead me to believe the RV engines may have had some different specs.

 

2)  Is an EGR delete worth it?  Price wise, it is nothing.  And I don't have to worry about the emissions aspect.  Although I am actually contemplating this to improve the emissions.  I think the EGR might be partially deleted, disabled, or just malfunctioning and causing a random pop/miss now and then once it gets hot.  I need to look into this a little more and try to figure out what is actually there.  Anyways, EGR lowers the exhaust temps and decreases efficiency.  Yes, it improves NOX emissions, but a cat lighting off at higher temps and a properly tuned engine would do a LOT more good.  Currently the, truck STINKS and doesn't have a cat.

 

3)  Was a 1985/6 Mini Cruiser supposed to have a catalytic???  There is a spot that has been replaced with flex pipe where a cat could have fit and about the right distance away...  Currently mine doesn't have one.  This thing runs pretty smelly compared to other non-cat tuned vehicles I have owned before.    

 

Ideally, I would like all the factory stuff working as it was supposed to so I can get a baseline MPG number.  But if I find anything broken or disabled, I am not likely to replace it to just delete it shortly down the road.  

 

Lets start there.  I suspect I might need to find either a really good forum for the 22RE, or some goos tuning resources.  Any recomendations here will be helpful!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[extech]

dont think cams are special. the cab and chassis is just a heavy truck, not specially made for rv. an aftermarket torque cam would probably help though

[extech]

the smelly part leads me to think the egr is open some

[Maineah]

Well you are part way there with no cat. The erg reduces NOX and a bad one with a cat is a big no no. Yes it has an effect on mileage if it's open all the time.

[extech]

if you have tccs, there will be a trouble code in the computer about egr as the system includes a feedback from it. codes can be retrieved

[WME]

The factory cam is middle of the road does everything grind ( jack of all things, master of none).

There are aftermarket cams that do better at a thing.

Stage 1 Rock crawler, all bottom torque

Stage 2 Torquer, more torque than factory, little less top end

Stage 3 HP cam. a little soft off idle, but good pull mid range up.

Stage 4 Bonneville special, all HP.

https://www.redlineenginebuilders.com/. 

I used the stage 3 cam with a ported head. Some where around 135 HP. VS a stock engine, the stock rig is quicker for the first 15 feet. After that, no contest. I built this engine because I pulled a 5x8 enclosed trailer over 10,000 ft mountain passes here in Wyoming. The before and after, there was a 20 mph differance going over Lincoln Summit (8835 ft)

 

"It stinks" a missed tuned carb and no cat can cause this

[thewanderlustking]

I have a check engine light (not currently on), but I don't know much else about it.  I will take a closer look in daylight tomorrow and see if it is the TCCS system.  I don't have the square diagnostic connector in the engine bay, but I may have the other round one.  

 

No carb, it has the factory EFI.  But same thing applies.  I "THINK" this had a cat at some point, but it is now replaced with flex pipe.  If the EGR has failed and took the cat out, that would add up.  There is a slight random stumble/miss at idle once it is hot.  Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were all replaced when I got it.  

 

Humm...  Okay the emissions sticker says EGR. O2, TWC.  TWC apparently stands for catalytic on the newer ones, so probably means the same on the older.  So lets just call that verified, the cat is missing.  

 

All of that really is more for amusement than any serious plan to fix the factory EFI.  I just want the best baseline possible.  If I can clean the EGR, sure.  But in the end that will more likely just be deleted.  It isn't worth detonation risk and especially a big no if/when I go turbo.  I might consider putting a cat back on when I change the EFI out to MS3.  I want it running clean, or at least as non-smelly as possible.    

 

Thanks WME, that website is like crack to a geared like me!   SUPER reasonable prices too....  Thats how it all starts.  But hey everything to do a rebuild shouldn't set me back more than $600-700.  Not that it needs one, yet.        

 

PS:  I registered on the yotatech forum and typed up some questions, and lost the post.   I have some pretty in depth questions, but so far getting all the answers here.  Or at least enough to go fill in the gaps with Google.  

Edited December 27, 2021 by thewanderlustking

[thewanderlustking]

As far as I can tell, I have no codes stored.  I couldn't get the blink codes to work at all though.  My Check Engine light does come on in the bulb check stage, goes out when running like it should.  But my system also doesn't appear to even check for EGR operation.  None of the codes listed covered that.  

 

WME, don't you have a swapped rear end ratio also???  

 

Linda, Gulfstream Greg, and a whole bunch of other recommendations are out there for doing this.  I just realized how easy it was going to be to do, I might just have to.   

[linda s]

If you did the procedure and it didn't blink at all something is wrong. Since your check engine lamp works you know it's not just the bulb. Those are the same circuits that need to be jumped to correctly set the timing for your engine so pretty important you figure out where the issue is. 

Linda S

[thewanderlustking]

Who knows, I could have done the wrong procedure or not gotten a solid connection with the paper clip. I will take another look. When I saw that no feedback about the EGR was in the codes for the EFI system anyways, I lost interest.  I probably should check to get as accurate of a baseline as possible….

I can swap in the MegaSquirt in about an hour.  Give or take a little since I will likely change the injectors at the same time. So other than as a baseline, not worth putting too much effort into sorting out the stock EFI. 

I think the timing lock is actually part of the igniter. The initial swap will leave that alone.  But that will be changed out pretty quickly. 

My pre-flight check list is getting shorter. Any day now lol.  Gotta clean out the garage next, and dig out the parts I have collected for the EFI conversion. I am probably ordering the LCE egr and emissions delete kit tomorrow. The only big thing really left to do is to figure out how to secure my big solar panel. Or remove it. The cables don’t seem to unplug though…  if I am going to leave it up there, I kinda want to put a hinge and a simple lift rod on it I can reach from the side. 

[extech]

jumper from te to e1 in box by fuses. if you check with a timing light and the marks are moving around, the throttle switch is not closed. very common problem, and codes wont flash. grab the throttle and twist it towards closing. if the timing marks stop moving you found the problem. now with the engine off, key on do the same to the throttle and your codes should blink.  also now you can adjust the idle switch

[linda s]

No his truck has the te-e1 connector plugged into the driver side fender wall. There are 2 round yellow plugs and it's the smaller one. 

Linda S

[extech]

that would indicate a 83-84 model

[linda s]

No. The link I posted that gave the instruction was for a 22re. Not a carb model. Those connecters are for 85 to 87 and they are what is in my 86. Have no idea what you could be looking at. 

Linda S

[extech]

so now im confused. this is from the book provided to me to teach techs how to deal with computer systems. my dolphin(84) uses the little box on the right fender. tccs.   the book says all toyotas were tccs by 86, and they all used the same way to check timing.  guess they got bad info from toyota. more likely it was typos

[extech]

[linda s]

I got it from here

Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes (4crawler.com)

and that's what's in my engine bay. You see me on here often recommending people check their codes. I have personally checked mine many times and that's where I jump the te-e1 wires. Timing too. What do you think I've been doing here the last 20 years. 

Linda S

[extech]

i definately respect what you say . i'm not questioning you either. i'm questioning my info. how could it be so wrong

[linda s]

Take into consideration that there were no fuel injected trucks in 1983 . Your looking at Celica specs. The 22re wasn't available on the trucks until 1985. 

Linda S

[thewanderlustking]

Extec also remember many of our chassis are a year behind the RV year. My chassis is a 1985 Toyota Pickup, but it is registered as a 1986 Mini Cruiser. 
 

it is very definitely the “Toyota EFI” system. I strongly suspect though that your tip about the throttle adjustment may be the issue in my case. 
 

I tried jumpering that plug what off and turning ignition on, and ignition on then and jumpering. I will give it another shot in daylight tomorrow, if a lazy day with the wife and dog doesn’t prevail. 
 

Again, this is mostly a curiosity since it isn’t staying on the factory ecu. I will be cheating though and plugging into the factory harness. Since building a whole new harness isn’t something most can easily do. 
 

Plus as I said in my last post, I think the timing lock is part of the igniter. Something doesn’t add up… unless when jumped the ecu stops sending out a control signal and the igniter defaults to 10 (or whatever it is). 

[thewanderlustking]

Oh, I did grab timing light and tools from my shop box.