neilp Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 Both the taps at both sinks run hot water. The cold water is less warm but still pretty hot. Any thoughts why this is? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 Do you have a hot water tank bypass system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilp Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 I have not seen one - that would be a pipe between the inlet and the outlet to the water heater, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tstockma Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) I don't know RV systems, but troubleshooting skills from my well system suggest a couple ideas. - That bypass pipe idea above sounds very promising. Yes, most likely a fairly direct line from your hot water tank/heater's inlet to outlet. - Somehow your hot water tank is pressurized & getting into the cold water supply - so the hot water tank's pressure forces water back thru its feed line & into the cold water lines. Possibly there's a failed backflow preventer valve which is supposed to prevent that from happening, thus allowing your water heater from acting as an additional pressure tank, resulting in a mix of hot water & cold water in cold water lines. (Or, that open hot water bypass listed above.) - Or, there's an additional shut-off valve in your system which you need to flip. If you check out your system & find a valve which you don't know the purpose of, try turning it on/off & see what happens. After testing, set these back to "original" unless you understand what it's doing & why it's the way it is. - One cautionary note - don't leave your hot water tank heater on if you're shutting off its water feed or draining the tank. Luck! Edited December 17, 2019 by tstockma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 If you go to Winnebago's website, you can still find drawings of how the plumbing (and electrical) would have been when it left the Factory. What DPO mods might be added is unknown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 11 hours ago, neilp said: I have not seen one - that would be a pipe between the inlet and the outlet to the water heater, correct? Yes it allows you to bypass the hot water tank so it does not get filled when antifreeze is added to the system via the pump. It generally is an add on system connected at the heater tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilp Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) There is no sign of a heater bypass, I just took a good look. I did find two additional pull ring type valves next to the fresh water tank. I am guessing that they are additional drains - the other two are right by the water heater near the shower. I thought I had all the docs from Winnebago but I don't have the plumbing schematic. I'll go look that - thanks for the tip! The pluming in my camper must be haunted, between the untraceable leaks and the mysteriously hot water! Edited December 17, 2019 by neilp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 I don't think Winnebago would completely redesign plumbing from year to year. 321RB.pdf 321RL.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilp Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) I've looked at the schematics. The valves that I found by the fresh water tank are labelled as drains. Ok, I guess I'll use those in future! But there are two pull ring valves under the stove right by the water heater - I used these to drain the system recently so they certainly work too! These do not seem to be on the schematic from what I can see: Shower / stove area: this area: they are labelled "header" But still no heater bypass to explain the cold water being hot... Edited December 17, 2019 by neilp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Does any one have the specs for a 1987 Escaper made by Damon Industries, which has been purchased by Thor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 There is a built in check valve in the hot discharge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilp Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 4 hours ago, Maineah said: There is a built in check valve in the hot discharge. I'm not quite sure I understand this - could you elaborate please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Derek, Can-you help find the specs. For my 87 Toyota Escaper ? I contacted Thor Motors and they directed me back to this site. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 What do you mean by specs. The water heater I thought we had already identified as Atwood. The manual for that is probably here. http://bryantrv.com/docs.html Information on he rest of the appliances is probably on the same site. If you want details of every appliance used in your RV ya gotta go look. I don't know of any manufacturers who gave that info in one detailed sheet. Most would have come with the individual manuals for each appliance stuck in a drawer or folder of the new RV. 30 years later those are long gone in almost all cases. "Specs " is such a broad term. Best to ask specific questions or at least narrow it down Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 The only thing I have for the Escaper is the Owner's Manual. About as general as all the others. Unfortunately, not what you're hoping for. manual 1-Cover.pdf Manual 2.pdf Manual 3.pdf Manual 4.pdf Manual 5.pdf Manual 6.pdf Manual 7.pdf Manual 8.pdf Manual 9.pdf Manual 10.pdf Manual 11.pdf Manual 12.pdf Manual 13.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 9 hours ago, neilp said: I'm not quite sure I understand this - could you elaborate please? Two things no air pocket in the heater tank open the pressure valve lever drain off a couple gallons close it off and refill. If that does not help there is a plastic check valve inside of the top tank fitting they sometimes fall apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 11 hours ago, Sandune24 said: I contacted Thor Motors and they directed me back to this site. I guess it's flattering that Thor thinks we know more than they do about Escapers. I assume they just did a quick Google search. I don't think any of the ToyMoHos do anything different. Fresh water tank -> pump -> pipes -> faucets (either directly or via water heater). All the same, +/- a few fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 FWIW. Toyota Escaper's were made by Damon who went bankrupt, then the asset's were bought by another company who operated under the same name but were different people and no longer made Toy MH's. The new Damon was sold (merged with) to Thor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilp Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 7 hours ago, Maineah said: Two things no air pocket in the heater tank open the pressure valve lever drain off a couple gallons close it off and refill. If that does not help there is a plastic check valve inside of the top tank fitting they sometimes fall apart. I have released the pressure in the tank. There's water coming from the valve, although I have only let about a cup or so out not gallons? Would that help? I'm interested in the check valve that you mention as I have not seen this - it is located in the top of tank? Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) Yes inside of the tank fitting. What you need to do is release the pressure valve then pull the drain plug in the tank drain out a gallon or so reset the pressure release and refill the tank water pump or hose fitting. Edited January 17, 2020 by Maineah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 I want to thank both Linda, Derek, WME and for the links and references. I have all of the manuals for each appliance. My question pertains to the under carriage lay out and interior wiring. The under carriage in the rear end is filled with sprayed insulation. I would like to and feel I will be able to remove that insulation when I repair interior leaks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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