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neilp

Toyota Advanced Member
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    75
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About neilp

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    Super Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Reading, learning, playing guitar, motorcycling.

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1993 Itasca Spirit
  • Location
    Austin TX

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  1. I'm confused about the role of a switch here. I carry a short jumper cable to allow me to connect both batteries together at the isolator, if needed. This is useful in two ways: - allows me to jump the engine from the coach battery if the cab battery is flat. - allows me to charge the cab battery while plugged in to shore power. Are suggesting a switch to do the same thing? The only problem I see is that you would either need some heavy duty cables or the added complication of a relay. While I like the idea I'm not sure it offers anything that my jumper cable solution do
  2. I replaced the incandescent OEM Bargman set up with their LED version. It was an easy bolt in solution to upgrading the rear lights, I'm happy with the results. I also pondered the cheaper options that would requires some fabrication or alterations to install. In the end I decided it was worth the extra $$ to have a bolt-on solution. I still have the old incandescent set up if any one wants them for the postage!
  3. Thanks for this information, good to have an alternative, although I cannot find anywhere with the in stock!
  4. Good thought. I'll check, although I'm fairly confident that the one that is leaking has an issue at the rim seal area. I did have a tire place look at it and they suggested a new valve, but were no help on a source for them. Honestly the stems that are on the wheels seem past their best. The schrader valve inserts (correct term?) are not located well on some of them and I have to poke around to check the pressure or fill the tires.
  5. I also ride - and likewise replace valve stems with tires. I don't cover the mileage that I used to on two wheels these days, so tire replacements can be several years apart and the thought of a valve failing at speed is not a good one...
  6. Thanks for that part number Linda - just what I needed! The shipping is a bit steep on that ebay listing! I'll call the local Toyota dealer and see what they can offer.
  7. My 1993 Itasca has metal valve stems and one is leaking slowly. I cannot find the correct replacements after searching local auto parts places. Has anyone replaced these and got a link they can share? Or the product name / reference number? I need to get that one replaced and would like to replace them all when I get the tires replaced, which I should do before long.
  8. Sorry if I wasn't clear - the freebie is a flasher to make the turn signals work with LEDs on older models. Looks like it spoken for if JND wants it! But do get the rear LEDs! Good safety upgrade I think.
  9. You are welcome to the one I have and you can give it a try. I suspect it will work as I got the part number for it on here. I know a $7 part is not the give away of the century but it seems a shame to trash the thing! Send me a PM with your address and I'll get it off to you. The flasher unit is located above the brake pedal in a spot that it will have you doing the dashboard limbo so that you can get to it! At least it is in my 1993 v6 - might be different in a 4 cylinder.
  10. I recently converted my rear lights to LEDs. I ordered what I thought to be the correct LED flasher unit from Amazon. It is one that allows you to adjust the flash rate, based on the EP34. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HYHNSY7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 When I installed it on the camper it did not work, and I bought another locally, an EP35 this time. The EP34 and EP35 are very similar except that the polarity is reversed. I think the EP34 may be correct for older ToyMos. Mine is a 1993 (1992 chassis). I'd guess that the ea
  11. That looks nasty! I know I should drop the tank, although the gas looked clear at the filter. I fitted the Toyota part today and as expected it bolted right up and does not leak. Definitely avoid the "Carquest" brand part for this job as thy are defective. My son worked at Advance Auto for a while and told me that these are often returned for fitment reasons. What worries me is folks driving around leaking gas unaware. Scary. So far no misfire, but my camping trip next weekend will be the real test.
  12. Thanks, I agree I probably should drop the tank. I'll see how it runs once I get the filter installed. For others doing this job and who find this thread I'll add a couple of links that I found useful: Yotatech thread with pics 4 runner forum thread about leaking fuel filters Annoying but somewhat applicable  YT video
  13. Yeah, if there's still a misfire I'll pull the tank and get it professionally cleaned. I've had to do that on other vehicles and it's worth paying someone to do it properly. And if I pull the tank I'll get a new fuel pump because pulling the tank is not a job that i want to do twice! I'm still hoping that the filter fixes it! I have the new one from the dealer but need the time to install it - likely over the weekend.
  14. My camper has had a slight misfire ever since I bought it two years ago. Not bad, and it's intermittent, but definitely fuel related as it improves with a full tank of gas to the point of being unnoticeable. And it gets noticeably worse when the gas level is low. I think I may have to drop the tank and clean it. If that's need I'll replace the fuel pump while I'm there. But I figured that the first step is to replace the fuel filter. I bought one at Advance Auto (I know, I should know better) and it will not stop leaking... Some google research informs me that many aftermarket fil
  15. Apologies for not replying sooner I just saw these posts. I used one of the Progressive Dynamics upgrade kits as linked above. The convertor install was straight forward. Take pics of the wiring in case needed later, remove the old wiring. Take out the old unit and install the new one. Attach the wiring from the new convertor. The unit I installed came with a 12v distribution panel. Simple enough to install: remove one wire at a time and attach to the new board. It all bolted in to the same spot the old one had been in. The only real difference is that the new
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