Sandune24 Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Good morning, How do I proceed to remove vents in 1987 Sunrader, from the inside out or outside in? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 There is a trim ring on the inside 4-6 screws. The vent is screwed to the roof on the outside. Lots of screws. You need to remove all the sealant first to check for hidden screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Thanks for the heads up 🙏. What sealant should I use around vent, as I am planning on a redo to reinforce sealing the whole roof. I have 4 vents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 I also have to seal front window for sure!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Roof vent.. Have you thought about a Fantastic Fan or something similar?? A lot time at night they will do as much for you as a roof ac. How to... Remove old vent, CLEAN CLEAN off the old stuff on the roof. Use butyl tape to seal the vent to the roof. After the tape warms up tighten the screws, scrap off any of the tape that oozes out. Then use a lap, self leveling, sealant to seal around the edge and a dollop on each screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaCamper Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 4 hours ago, Sandune24 said: I also have to seal front window for sure!! Maybe check out the process I recently used to seal a front window: You should look into getting a new rubber seal first, but if that's not a good option then a sealing job is appropriate. 1 hour ago, WME said: Fantastic Fan I really like my Fantastic Fan in the roof. I have a second one that is an 'indoor' version that hangs in the window. I use these two fans to do my night time air flow/venting. Quiet and low battery usage. They are a bit on the expensive side but they work better than the other options. 1 hour ago, WME said: How to... Remove old vent, CLEAN CLEAN off the old stuff on the roof. Use butyl tape to seal the vent to the roof. After the tape warms up tighten the screws, scrap off any of the tape that oozes out. Then use a lap, self leveling, sealant to seal around the edge and a dollop on each screw. These are great, concise instructions. If you follow these instructions then you will have no issues with leaking. This is the same basic procedure I used to put it in and it's never leaked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Thank you both ...as far as cleaning the old stuff off the roof around vent what tool should I use; a regular scraper? What is a lap, self leveling sealant? The A/C works, just the cover is cracked up and I am looking for a replacement. The vents have fans in them . I have to check into the Fantastic Fan as an option. My fiancé must have A/C , and my 2 pups also. I’ll kept you posted 🙏 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Scraper, putty knife, wire brush, razor blades..what ever works be careful with sharp things butyl tape...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/tape/butyl/butyle-tape_38-1467 Self leveling sealant, this will flow out and level itself, for roof tops...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-and-caulks/rubber2-lap-sealant-white-103oz-tube_38-8896 NON self leveling, this is for vertical use it wont flow or sag while drying...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-and-caulks/lap-sealantuse-388896_38-9018 Front window is a total different animal. Use the motor home search engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 Thank you ! Don’t want to sound ignorant with some questions, believe in listening to experience. You comments will help out next weekend 😊. And I’m certain to have more ...😂🧐 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynxing Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 I replaced my defunct swamp cooler with a simple skylight that I can block if it gets too warm. The extra light is amazing. I had to replace all of my vents last winter after a hailstorm shattered them all. The 30 year old plastic snaps like potato chips. The vent over the fridge was the same way. In addition to the fantastic fan there are some solar fans I have used on my boat that are brilliant. West Marine has those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaCamper Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 I'd suggest removing all sealant around the vents and installing per WME's instructions with the butyl tape/sealant and then resealing any other through roof holes with the EDPM lap sealant (EDPM is the chemical composition type of that roof sealant material). One great thing about EDPM roof sealant is that you don't have to remove the old stuff first. You can coat EDPM over EDPM as long as you clean and prep/prime the old surface first. If you get a gallon of this stuff you should be able to re-coat your entire roof at one time (white or black, your choice). The only thing is that you have to make sure that you would be covering roofing sealant with roofing sealant. If there is any other type of sealant like silicone on the roof the EDPM will not stick to that. You have to get those non-compatible sealants off first. I'd also suggest testing areas that you might be unsure about. Clean and prep (even wiping with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol is enough) areas and put a dab of the EDPM roof stuff on and see if it bonds tightly. If it dries and you can pry it off the old surface then it's not compatible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandune24 Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 Absolutely beyond grateful for your knowledge and experience....I am going to have to order the butyl and EDPM , fingers crossed the roof is compatible 👣🙏 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 In the photos your roof is black. If it is black then it has been coated with something NOT designed for RV use and you can see cracks in the covering. Those are leaks waiting to happen. Probably something like this stuff...https://www.lowes.com/pd/BLACK-JACK-4-75-Gallon-Fibered-Waterproofer-Roof-Sealant/3009900 To to make your roof right you can look forward to hand scraping the entire roof down to the metal, can you say days of scraping. 😫 Some auto cleaner chemicals may help, Like WalMart carb cleaner. If you use chemical help make SURE you outside, well vented and away from flames. When you get it cleaned off use lap sealant on all the roof seams, then use something like this on the roof...https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/roof-coating/sealbest-duck-coat-white-thermoplastic-roof-coating-9-gal/1531835/p-1444444997118-c-5822.htm?tid=-4411091524350413458&ipos=14 It will stretch and not crack. It will also be a lot cooler and a bit quieter. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaCamper Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 1 hour ago, WME said: If it is black then it has been coated with something NOT designed for RV use If WME is right and that black material is just some nasty tar-like gook then you do have a real problem on your hands as it would have to come off. Maybe chip off a piece and see if you can figure out if it's more of a rubber like substance or a tar like material. If it's tar then you gotta start by getting it all off.... Ugh. (Oh, and I kept calling it EDPM instead of EPDM... my mistake) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 Your window, I really don't recommend removing the glass unless your sure it's leaking there. Too many chances to mess up and reinstalling in the exact right spot is hard to do. For a little extra insurance you can use this stuff around the edge of the glass. Lay window flat for it and do it on a warm day then give it time to dry https://www.amazon.com/s?k=capt+tolleys+creeping+crack+cure&gclid=CjwKCAjwk93rBRBLEiwAcMapUSly4nismPtj-_fbJJAz7yNMnfb66_5QT7ALzqbBVSR-J1PdVlnv7BoCywcQAvD_BwE&hvadid=267953571749&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032371&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=318571902912504498&hvtargid=aud-646675773986%3Akwd-316664412681&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_9883wj5h5m_e The rubber stuff around the window is called glazing bead. Your not going to find brown but black is available. You need to find the right profile. This kit has an assortment so you know which one to buy https://www.pellandent.com/Sample-Kit Good luck Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff thomas Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 thanks on the pellandent.com info just ordered my sample order so i can figure out which i need for my 1988 sun-land express front window over top of the cab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87 Oddy Posted October 21, 2019 Share Posted October 21, 2019 On 9/8/2019 at 2:34 PM, AtlantaCamper said: Maybe check out the process I recently used to seal a front window: You should look into getting a new rubber seal first, but if that's not a good option then a sealing job is appropriate. I really like my Fantastic Fan in the roof. I have a second one that is an 'indoor' version that hangs in the window. I use these two fans to do my night time air flow/venting. Quiet and low battery usage. They are a bit on the expensive side but they work better than the other options. These are great, concise instructions. If you follow these instructions then you will have no issues with leaking. This is the same basic procedure I used to put it in and it's never leaked. Yes, very straight and to the point. Make sure you take your time with each step as you will be glad you did later. You can basically follow these instructions by username WME for anything that requires putting holes in the roof. 1. Removal of ALL old material, clean with alcohol. 2. Heavy and complete coverage with butyl tape. 3. Screw down and heavy complete coverage with self leveling lap sealant, around every edge and screw head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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