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About AtlantaCamper

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1988 Sunrader on a 1987 Toyota 22re EFI
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

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  1. The link Linda sent for the "Torsion Bar Set – 84-95 Toyota Pickup 2WD" is what I bought and I'm very pleased with them. $222.88 shipped. The website will say 'backordered' but if you call on the phone they will manually check the warehouse and likely find a pair. The lady on the phone said that the online database isn't linked to the actual reality in the warehouse. I received mine in less than a week. They were pretty easy to put in.
  2. I use the same exact house battery. I keep the receipt taped to the battery itself. If I ever do have a problem then a Walmart is sure to be close by for easy exchange if I'm on the road. This is a key reason I use this battery. The performance has been good so far. The first one I had was worn out after two years and I got a free exchange at that time. I replaced that one with new after 4 years and this new one has been doing well 2.5 years later. So over 8.5 years I only had to buy two batteries. Cost effective, functional, easy replacement on the road. The ~90 amp hour capacity is
  3. I hope it has all worked out well for you. Hopefully after the break-in period (not long, mine settled in <40 miles) you will be sitting at a good ride height that keeps your fridge level enough while driving but also let's you put a little air in the air bags too.
  4. I have not found a simple voltage reading to be a reliable way to determine the state of charge. In my experience this chart is only relevant if the battery is at a state of equilibrium, which of course it never is when you want to measure it. The chart works fine if you always let the battery sit for an hour or so before reading though... If you charge and then immediately measure, it's an artificially high reading. If you have a heavy draw and then read, it's artificially low. It's a fine way to get a really general estimate but I prefer the current reading via shunt battery monitor as it
  5. Is there a relatively simple way to bypass the valve and find out how it does if you go equal and full force to the front and rears? It might be as simple as installing a barrel connector instead of the valve? Then you can find out what kind of grab you get in front and back but still be able to easily return to stock if it give unexpected results. I still have the LSPV but it's wired to go 'full to back'. I get decent balance between front and back which I monitor by checking brake/hub temps after using the brakes hard. I get nice even temps all around.
  6. Where are you located? I don't suppose you are any where near Georgia? Cause this one is available: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/d/lithia-springs-1987-toyota-rv-parting/6984285844.html You can find a decent used 4.1 3rd member pretty easily if your axle doesn't come with one. This is the one available at that link above and will give you an idea of all of the "extras" that ideally would come with a used axle (this one has the drive shaft available too and I'm pretty sure it's a 4.1):
  7. I did not. I had replaced my brake hoses a while back and I may not have stock ones any longer so YMMV.
  8. An update on the installation of those replacement cargo box clips, uh, I mean Jeep hood latches... The new replacements are not exactly the same size. As far as I can tell all of the available ones are this same size. The new ones are about a quarter inch longer in terms of clamping distance: The mounting holes all exactly lined up, which was nice. My original blind rivets used to install them were 1/4" rivets. This is a large size rivet and it takes a 'heavy duty' rivet gun to install them. If you have a standard size rivet gun (far and away the more common) then you will
  9. An excellent point. If you run with one tire on a rear axle then you are going to be asking a more of that tire than it's designed for. This idea of 'to carry a spare or not' is a matter of how much risk you are willing to accept. It's ok to exceed the specifications on a tire for a short run, but be aware of when you are pushing the envelope. Go slow and carefully for a reasonable distance and you will be fine. If you push it and over-burden a single on the rear then you can end up stuck with a problem. I tend to be on the more conservative side of things when it comes to risk of b
  10. Would you go to the 65 psi max rating for the tire if you ran as a single or would you go higher to like 70 psi while driving to a place to get a new tire?
  11. With dual tires on the back it is certainly possible to manage without a spare. You have to be willing to carry the proper jack(s), tools and air compressor needed to swap or remove a tire should something go wrong. One consideration about the risk of leaving the spare behind in your case would include the quality and age of the tires and how carefully you maintain them. When I first got my rig it had seven different tires on it with different age and tread wear. I would swap out with a new one as they went down. And they did go down - like three times I had to change a tire on the
  12. Is that price for just the parts? FYI, for anyone on the east coast looking right now, there is a nice complete axle upgrade available on craigs list right now (link below). These are all the parts you want: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/d/lithia-springs-1987-toyota-rv-parting/6984285844.html
  13. Old Man Emu Leaf Springs are an option. They don't list our vehicles as a "correct fit" but there are two models that do indeed fit and function well. There are two options with the difference being the total 'lift', CS010R and CS009R. The CS010R springs will get more lift than the CS009R model. These springs were designed to lift a truck with regular loading about 2" and so with our heavy load then end up being close to stock height. The CS009R springs have one less leaf (6-leaf like the OEM springs) and will be about 3/4" to 1" lower, but are otherwise identical to the 7-leaf CS010R.
  14. As mentioned, unless you are able to find a custom 4x4 Chinook or modified Sunrader it's unlikely that you would be happy with a stock ToyHome (or 'YoterHome') on back roads. The stock Toyota Chinook is on a pretty wimpy truck, but you may get lucky and find someone who is selling a modified one on craigslist or similar. I've got a stock 21' Sunrader and the 1-ton suspension with 6-lug dual wheel rears is pretty darn sturdy. I have worked to get the highest ground clearance possible without major modifications and it's still pretty low. And heavy (though you could likely due with a lig
  15. Attached is a procedure for the headgasket. Perhaps it can be helpful to you. I had originally planned to do just my headgasket but I ended up doing the HG plus a new head, timing chain, and entire front end kit (water/oil pumps/cover). It's much easier and cost effective to take care of any of that stuff if it's needed while you are doing the HG. Linda has a point about getting a quality gasket and related parts like the head bolts. It's a long and involved procedure and you don't want to have to do it twice. HG edited procedure.pdf
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