Waydago Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) Hi folks, I’m brand new to this, just bought a 93 warrior in pretty good shape, just starting to uncover little surprises. I was thinking of pulling the carpet out of the bathroom to replace with vinyl plank and noticed the carpet bunched up behind the toilet and upon closer examination find that I can see the ground! On the outside is one of those little rubber strips. Should I remove it and will there be screw holes there so I can reattach the back panel to the floor of the bathroom? And also unrelated, do I use lap sealant or some other caulk where the old caulk has disappeared on the curved seam at eye level on the side of the bed over the cab? Thanks everyone! **wanted to add, maybe the above is not so clear, my model has the toilet on the rear wall basically, and behind it and on the floor, the back wall has separated from the bathroom floor. Has anyone else experienced this? When I go outside I can push the wall 1/2 inch or so to meet the floor, I’m just not sure how to fasten it. That’s where the rubber strip is and I may try to remove it and see if there are screw holes underneath it. If anyone has any ideas I’d appreciate hearing from you. Edited January 4, 2019 by Waydago Add info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 I have a warrior too, if that section of the rear wall is barely attached, unless it is soft & mushy I would not be to concerned. Rather then attach that rear wall I would use some silicone caulk to fill in the gap until you determine if the back wall is ok. Leaks from the clearance lights are common- the water migrates down. . As for eye level if you are talking the curved section, I am not sure what you are referencing - if you are referencing the exterior, there should not be caulk there. The over-cab area are prone to leakage & condensation. Most leaks come from the clearance lights (front & rear) - pics would be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waydago Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Thanks Dan for the reply. I’ll take some pics tomorrow (if it ever stops raining🙄) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waydago Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Ok, here’s a pic where I think water is leaking in. You can see on the right where there’s caulk, then it ends, im referring to the pic outside, on the side of the bed area, on the curve. The corresponding interior pic shows where there was a little water, maybe a tablespoon, along that seam. It’s on both sides, identical inside and out. Also, in other pic, the tape measure is where there was a little water underneath the first day I got it home. There’s been no more water there even though we’ve had rain almost daily. I’d like to put regular caulk on that outside seam after it dries out, if that’s the right thing to do. The other pics are of behind the toilet, looking down at the crack between the vertical back wall and the horizontal floor, and the corresponding outside pic. The wall seems dry but I can push it, is that what you mean by mushy? I’m most concerned that this is allowing exhaust into the vehicle. When I test drove it for an hour, I got a slight sore throat and headache, which I attributed to what I thought was the chemical toilet smell, as I’m super sensitive to smells, chemicals, mold, etc. Ive been running a dehumidifier and ozone machine in it for the past week and it’s dryer and slightly less smelly. When I just started it and ran it for 10 minutes, I thought I could smell exhaust. So you can see my concern. If I could seal up the rear crack, maybe the exhaust smell would go away and I’d know what the problem was. thanks for any insights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 My 91 Warrior has the same issue, behind the toilet on the rear floor. Basically, the back wall on these seems to migrate south, millimeter by millimeter, as time goes by. I've filled the gap with Great Stuff foam as a (literal) stop-gap measure. There's not much holding the back wall to the main structure on these, from what I can tell. Like Waydago, I'd love to hear about a better, more permanent, fix for this if anybody's messed with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waydago Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 Thanks Ctgriffi for the reply. It’s strangely reassuring to know that someone can see out through their floor. Did you see my first pic of the bunk area exterior? Can you make out how there’s caulk in that curved seam on the right then it’s kind of disintegrated headed back? What kind of caulk do I use there? Everyone says not silicone. Would like to caulk it before the weekend rain to test out whether or not it still leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Yeah, I know exactly what you’re talking about on the down curve of your cabover area. I spent a lot of time in and around all that when I did my rebuild up front. Here are your best two options for sealing the curve, in my opinion: Dicor Lap Sealant (non-leveling) or OSI Quad caulk. I’ve used both and they’re similar: heavy duty, durable stuff and somewhat difficult to tool (tool, meaning “shape or smooth to prevent major ugliness”). Cleanup both with solvent only. OSI Quad comes in beige too and is half the price of Dicor: https://m.lowes.com/pd/OSI-QUAD-QUAD-12-Pack-10-oz-Beige-Paintable-Advanced-Sealant-Caulk/3664442 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waydago Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks ctgriffi, I’ll check them out. I did notice today when I press upward at that curved seam, that it gives a little like it needs to be tightened upward, and that’s why there’s a gap at the seam, if you know what I mean. It might be a common thing with all that weight over the cab, that there’s a bit of a sag. I’ll see if I can fix the leak first, not everything at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Warrior Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 Resurrecting an old thread. I've just discovered I have this exact issue happening on my warrior. Noticed it when I was vacuuming behind the toilet, had to double take when I thought I saw light, sure enough the rear wall has seperated from the floor at the bottom seam. Has anyone found a suitable fix for this? I'm searching for good ideas before I fire the parts cannon at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 13 hours ago, 90Warrior said: Resurrecting an old thread. I've just discovered I have this exact issue happening on my warrior. Noticed it when I was vacuuming behind the toilet, had to double take when I thought I saw light, sure enough the rear wall has seperated from the floor at the bottom seam. Has anyone found a suitable fix for this? I'm searching for good ideas before I fire the parts cannon at it. Try some tub caulk tape. Comes in various sizes and lengths. It’s scored in the middle for easy right angle application. Lowe’s and HD both carry it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Warrior Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 11 hours ago, fred heath said: Try some tub caulk tape. Comes in various sizes and lengths. It’s scored in the middle for easy right angle application. Lowe’s and HD both carry it. Thanks! First thought was run some screws thru it and pull it back together. But...I imagine that area sees a bit of flex/movement while the truck moves on road/parked and would wallow out anywhere a mechanical fastener is. So, Ive been thinking on an adhesive caulk or sealant type tape. Stick the areas together; that'll let them shift some. I've got a couple tubes of Loctite PL Marine Adhesive leftover from the cabover frame repair. When taping/caulking that spot together, would you think it'd be better to push the pieces together and then let it cure; or leave the gap and fill that space with sealant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 Get your tape measure out. When they build these things, the first thing is lay down the floor, add carpet and vinyl. Then they add prebuilt sides ON TOP of the floor. If you can see daylight the sides may have bowed and pulled out the nails and slid off the floor. Use the tape to measure the width between the walls and bottom . See what you got. If the sides bowed all the caulk wont help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 I can see screws pulled out on that dark strip at the bottom. See if you can get one out and buy a slightly larger size. Little bit longer, little bit fatter. See if it will pull it in. Then unscrew to open gap slightly, pipe in adhesive caulk and rescrew. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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