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I copied and pasted the below article from Motor Trend's website as it has useful information on Toyota vintage axles - splines, widths, etc. Sorry there's some font and formatting screwups and extra space but the text is all there. I deleted ads and such as best I could. One day, I plan to upgrade my Sunrader's suspension and may even convert it to 4WD for light offroading and the ability to be solo self supporting in remote areas where 4WD is needed to guarantee mobility. Information I've also gleaned from calling the Toyota dealer includes that my 1982 4 speed manual Sundrader came with a RN44HVY axle with 4:11 gears. The original wheel bearing part number was 97144-06308, which is the same p/n as the regular Pickup of the day. This p/n later superceded to 90363-40020-77 which is what you'd order as of this writing. Here's the article text: Toyota pickup axles are renowned for their light weight, low cost, and high strength. Although they don't offer the ground clearance of portal axles or the massive ring gear of a Corporate 14-bolt, these axles are popping up under a wide variety of vehicles beyond Toyotas, including Jeeps, Samurais, and buggies, because of the features mentioned above. As good as they are from the factory, like most components they can still benefit from advances made in the aftermarket. Stock Front Axle Toyota used a solid front axle in the '79-'85 pickups and 4Runners. All of these axles were 55.5 inches wide from wheel mounting surface (WMS) to wheel mounting surface and came with solid front disc brakes and closed knuckles with Birfields. These axles also came with push-pull steering and a torque-rod bracket welded to the housing. They use the same 8-inch third member and 1-5/16-inch axleshafts as the rear axle, simplifying part swapping. The Birfields are 30-spline at the hub, and the inner axles are 27-spline at the Birfield end and 30-spline at the differential end. Earlier axles had no trussing on the long side, but over the years Toyota increased the size of the truss under the housing until eventually it spanned the long side of the housing by 1984. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS FRONT AXLE UPGRADES AFTERMARKET BIRFIELDS BY FAR THE WEAKEST LINK IN TOYOTA AXLES ARE THE STOCK BIRFIELDS. THESE JOINTS HAVE LIMITED ANGULARITY AND ARE PRONE TO CRACKING WITH THE STEERING AT FULL LOCK AND POWER APPLIED. LONG'S ENTERPRISES DEVELOPED LONGFIELDS THAT ADDRESS ALL OF THE FACTORY SHORTCOMINGS. THE LATEST GENERATION OF LONGFIELDS ARE 30-SPLINE FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL TO THE HUB AND ARE MADE FROM CHROME-MOLY. THE INNER RACE IS MACHINED FROM 300M AND IS SMALLER THAN STOCK TO ADD THICKNESS TO THE OUTER BELL. IN ADDITION TO THE STRENGTH, LONGFIELDS ARE ABLE TO PROVIDE A MUCH TIGHTER TURN RADIUS THAN STOCK BIRFIELDS DUE TO THEIR TAPERED DESIGN. INNER AXLES AFTERMARKET BIRFIELDS USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH STOCK AXLESHAFTS CAN TRANSFER THE WEAK LINK TO THE SPLINES WHERE THE SHAFT MATES WITH THE BIRFIELD. POLY PERFORMANCE SELLS CHROME-MOLY INNER AXLESHAFTS THAT DO NOT NECK DOWN LIKE THE STOCK SHAFTS AND WHICH ELIMINATE THE NEED FOR A C-CLIP TO RETAIN THE AXLE. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS UPGRADED HUB STUDS WHEN HUB STUDS SHEAR, THEY OFTEN RENDER THE WHEEL HUB USELESS. IN ORDER TO CURE THIS PROBLEM, FRONT RANGE OFF-ROAD FABRICATION DEVELOPED HARDENED CHROME-MOLY STUDS THAT FEATURE ROLLED SPLINES AND INCLUDE HIGH-QUALITY LOCKNUTS FOR PROPER RETENTION. CHROME-MOLY HUBS AFTER UPGRADING THE BIRFIELDS AND INNER AXLES, THE STOCK HUBS BECOME THE WEAK LINK. DRIVE FLANGES FROM AN FJ80 LAND CRUISER CAN BE USED TO REPLACE THE HUBS, BUT LONG'S ENTERPRISES HAS A MORE PRACTICAL SOLUTION FOR THOSE WHO DON'T WANT THEIR FRONT DRIVESHAFT SPINNING ALL THE TIME. LONG DEVELOPED 4340 CHROME-MOLY HUB GEARS THAT ARE SIGNIFICANTLY STRONGER THAN STOCK AND WON'T STRIP THE SPLINES OFF OF YOUR HIGH-DOLLAR AFTERMARKET BIRFIELDS. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS BEEFED STEERING STOPS THE STOCK STEERING STOPS CONSIST OF A SMALL PIECE OF TRIANGULAR METAL STRAP-WELDED TO THE HOUSING. ADDING HUGE TIRES AND HYDRAULIC-ASSIST STEERING CAN BEND THE STOPS, CAUSING THE BIRFIELDS TO BIND AND BREAK. TO PREVENT THIS, INCHWORM GEAR MAKES FULLY BOXED STEERING STOPS OUT OF HEAVY-GAUGE STEEL. THE NEW STOPS WELD DIRECTLY IN PLACE OF THE FACTORY STEERING STOPS AND OFFER GREATLY INCREASED STRENGTH. CROSSOVER STEERING FROM THE FACTORY, SOLID-AXLE TOYOTAS CAME EQUIPPED WITH PUSH-PULL STEERING THAT WAS USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH A TORQUE ROD. THE TORQUE ROD LIMITS ARTICULATION, BUT REMOVING IT CAN RESULT IN BROKEN DRAG LINKS AND STEERING ARMS. ALL-PRO OFF-ROAD OFFERS A KIT THAT REPLACES THE ENTIRE STEERING SYSTEM WITH A CROSSOVER CONFIGURATION USING AN IFS TOYOTA STEERING BOX, FORGED STEERING ARMS, 0.250-WALL DOM LINKS, AND 23MM FJ80 TIE-ROD ENDS. THE TIE ROD IS ALSO MOVED ABOVE THE SPRINGS AND BEHIND THE AXLE FOR GREATER PROTECTION ON THE TRAIL. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS UPGRADED KNUCKLE STUDS JUST AS WITH THE HUB STUDS, KNUCKLE STUDS CAN SHEAR AS WELL. THIS IS OFTEN AN ISSUE WHEN WIDE, HEAVY TIRES ARE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH RIMS WITH MINIMAL BACKSPACING. FRONT RANGE OFF-ROAD FABRICATION IS THE SOLE DISTRIBUTOR FOR ARP KNUCKLE STUDS. THE NEW STUDS ARE HARDENED CHROME-MOLY AND FEATURE ROLLED SPLINES FOR ADDITIONAL STRENGTH. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS BRAKE UPGRADES THE FACTORY BRAKE CALIPERS AND SOLID ROTORS ONLY DO A MARGINAL JOB OF STOPPING SMALL STOCK TIRES, SO WHEN YOU ADD MORE WEIGHT AND LEVERAGE THEY ARE REALLY OVERWHELMED. VENTED ROTORS FROM AN '81-OR-LATER FJ40 CAN BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH CALIPERS FROM AN IFS PICKUP FOR IMPROVED BRAKING FORCE AND LESS FADE. THE LATER V6 CALIPERS HAD LARGER PISTONS THAT PROVIDE MORE BRAKING FORCE THAN THE EARLIER IFS CALIPERS. ALL-PRO D60 HYBRID MANY OF THE AFOREMENTIONED UPGRADES HAVE BEEN BUNDLED INTO ONE BEEFY AXLE FROM ALL-PRO OFF-ROAD. ALL-PRO REPLACES EVERYTHING FROM THE KNUCKLES OUT WITH 1-TON COMPONENTS. THE COMPANY'S HYBRID AXLE FEATURES F-450 U-JOINTS, BEARINGS, AND HUBS WITH WILWOOD CALIPERS AND ROTORS THAT PROVIDE INCREASED STOPPING FOR LARGE TIRES. THE BRAKES FIT UNDER 15-INCH WHEELS AND EVEN RETAIN THE STOCK 6X5.5 BOLT PATTERN. HIGH-PINION THIRD MEMBERS FJ80 LAND CRUISERS USED A FRONT THIRD MEMBER THAT IS INTERCHANGEABLE WITH THE SOLID AXLES FOUND IN PICKUPS AND 4RUNNERS. THE LAND CRUISERS USED A HIGH-PINION THIRD MEMBER WITH A REVERSE-CUT RING-AND-PINION THAT IS STRONGER THAN THE LOW-PINION THIRD MEMBER USED IN STOCK FRONT AXLES AND WHICH OFFERS 4 INCHES MORE GROUND CLEARANCE FOR YOUR DRIVESHAFT AND PINION FLANGE. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS AXLE TRUSS LARGE TIRES INCREASE LEVERAGE, WHICH CAN RESULT IN BENT AXLEHOUSINGS, PARTICULARLY IF THE VEHICLE IS JUMPED. ALL-PRO OFF-ROAD SELLS A TRUSS THAT CAN BE WELDED TO THE TOP OF YOUR AXLEHOUSING FOR IMPROVED RIGIDITY WITH NO LOSS OF GROUND CLEARANCE. STOCK REAR AXLE TOYOTA USED A SOLID REAR AXLE WITH AN 8-INCH RING GEAR AND 1-5/16-INCH 30-SPLINE AXLESHAFTS EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH '95, AND EVEN LATER IN SOME TACOMAS, T100S, AND 4RUNNERS. EARLY AXLES WERE 55 INCHES WIDE TO MATCH THE FRONT SOLID AXLE AND INCREASED BY 3 INCHES WHEN THE SWITCH TO IFS WAS MADE IN 1986. WITH THE ADDED WIDTH IN '86, THE AXLETUBES GREW LARGER AND THE BRAKE DRUMS WERE ALSO ENLARGED FROM 10 INCHES TO 11.6 INCHES. ALL PICKUPS AND '89-AND-EARLIER 4RUNNERS USED LEAF SPRINGS, WHILE LATER 4RUNNERS USED A FOUR-LINK AND COIL-SPRING SUSPENSION, MAKING THESE AXLES MORE DIFFICULT TO RETROFIT INTO OTHER VEHICLES. REAR AXLE UPGRADES V6 THIRD MEMBERS THE THIRD MEMBER FROM A V6 OR 22RTE TURBO-POWERED TRUCK BOLTS DIRECTLY IN PLACE OF THE STANDARD FOUR-CYLINDER THIRD MEMBERS YET IS STRONGER DUE TO THE FOUR SPIDER GEARS, LARGER RING-AND-PINION, LARGER BEARINGS, AND STIFFER THIRD-MEMBER HOUSING. UPGRADED AXLESHAFTS POLY PERFORMANCE OFFERS UPGRADED AXLESHAFTS MADE FROM 4340 CHROME-MOLY. THE SHAFTS ACCEPT STOCK BEARINGS AND BRAKES AND USE ROLLED SPLINES AND A TAPERED DESIGN FOR MAXIMUM STRENGTH. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS REAR DISC BRAKES LARGER-THAN-STOCK TIRES CAN LEAD TO INCREASED BRAKING DISTANCES DUE TO THE ADDED LEVERAGE AND WEIGHT OF THE BIGGER MEATS. ALL-PRO OFF-ROAD HAS A BOLT-ON REAR DISC-BRAKE KIT THAT PROVIDES SHORTER STOPPING DISTANCES, EASIER MAINTENANCE, AND LESS UNSPRUNG WEIGHT. FULL FLOATER SEVERAL OF THE ABOVE IDEAS HAVE BEEN INTEGRATED INTO ONE COMPREHENSIVE PACKAGE FROM FRONT RANGE OFF-ROAD FABRICATION. THE KIT CONVERTS THE REAR SEMIFLOATING AXLE TO A FULL FLOATER USING CUSTOM-MACHINED AND FACTORY TOYOTA COMPONENTS. IN ADDITION TO THE INCREASED LOAD-BEARING CAPACITY AND SAFETY, THE FROR FULL-FLOATER KIT ALSO INCORPORATES CHROME-MOLY AXLESHAFTS AND DISC BRAKES FOR EVEN GREATER STRENGTH AND PERFORMANCE. AXLE TRUSS ADDING AN AXLE TRUSS CAN STRENGTHEN YOUR AXLEHOUSING AND RESIST BENDING THE TUBES - PARTICULARLY IF YOU LIKE TO JUMP YOUR TRUCK. DOWNEY OFF-ROAD OFFERS A WELD-ON TRUSS THAT INCORPORATES A POLYURETHANE BUSHING IN THE MIDDLE TO ACCOMMODATE A TRACTION BAR AS WELL. UPGRADES FOR FRONT AND REAR AXLES SOLID SPACERMOST AFTERMARKET GEARSETS COME WITH A CRUSH SLEEVE THAT FITS BETWEEN THE PINION BEARINGS AND IS COLLAPSED DURING THE INSTALLATION PROCESS TO SET PRELOAD. A SOLID SPACER IS AVAILABLE FROM ALL-PRO OFF-ROAD THAT ELIMINATES THE POSSIBILITY OF EXCESS BACKLASH AND THE NEED TO RETIGHTEN THE PINION NUT. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS ELECTRIC LOCKERS TOYOTA USED AN 8-INCH CENTERSECTION WITH A FACTORY ELECTRIC LOCKER IN TRD TACOMAS AND SOME 4RUNNERS. WITH MINOR HOUSING MODIFICATIONS, THIS THIRD MEMBER CAN BE RETROFITTED INTO ANY 8-INCH HOUSING FOR AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL ON THE ROAD WITH THE TRACTION OF A SPOOL AT THE FLIP OF A SWITCH. FZJ80S EVEN CAME WITH AN OPTIONAL HIGH-PINION ELECTRIC LOCKER IN THE FRONTEND. FACTORY RATIOS WERE 4.10, 4.30, AND 4.56, BUT INCHWORM GEAR CAN SET YOU UP WITH AN ELECTRIC LOCKER AND THE RELATED WIRING IN ANY GEAR RATIO YOU DESIRE. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS LOW-PROFILE DRAIN PLUGS THE FACTORY DRAIN PLUG ON TOYOTA HOUSINGS IS A HEX-HEAD PLUG THAT WE HAVE SEEN GET KNOCKED LOOSE ON MORE THAN ONE TRAIL RIDE. BUDBUILT STOCKS LOW-PROFILE DRAIN PLUGS THAT USE AN ALLEN WRENCH FOR REMOVAL, SO THEY WILL STAY PUT ON THE TRAIL AND YOU CAN STILL REMOVE THEM WHEN NECESSARY. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS DIFF ARMOR THE FACTORY DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING IS STAMPED STEEL AND CAN BE DENTED AND CONTACT THE RING GEAR DURING HARD CONTACT WITH ROCKS. ALL-PRO OFF-ROAD'S DIFF ARMOR WELDS TO THE FACTORY HOUSING AND PROTECTS THE RING GEAR FROM ANY IMPACTS. 4CRAWLER SHAVED DIFF A MORE COMPLICATED WAY TO ARMOR YOUR AXLEHOUSING: REMOVE THE DRAIN PLUG COMPLETELY AND GAIN GROUND CLEARANCE WITH 4CRAWLER'S HIGH-CLEARANCE AXLE KIT. THIS KIT REQUIRES YOU TO CUT OFF THE BOTTOM OF YOUR AXLEHOUSING AND WELD IN THE SUPPLIED PIECES TO REALIZE THE ABOVE BENEFITS. SEE ALL 17 PHOTOS DIAMOND AXLEHOUSINGS THE ULTIMATE IN STRENGTH, FRONT OR REAR, COMES IN THE FORM OF DIAMOND AXLES AXLEHOUSINGS. THESE ALL-NEW HOUSINGS FEATURE 1/2-INCH-THICK MOUNTING FLANGES, 3/4 INCH MORE CLEARANCE THAN STOCK HOUSINGS, AND 1-INCH-THICK STEERING STOPS ON FRONT HOUSINGS. DIAMOND AXLES CAN BE ORDERED IN CUSTOM WIDTHS WITH A VARIETY OF OPTIONS INCLUDING DANA 44 OR DANA 60 KNUCKLES, SEMIFLOATER OR FULL-FLOATER ENDS, AND DRIVER- OR PASSENGER-SIDE DROP.

84 dolphin. dometic a/c. any idea where i can find a service manual for it. i see no numbers on it anywhere. bryant doesn't have it

i have a owners manual for dolphin that has a good quality script and dolphin on the front. you could take it to a vinyl shop, have it scanned and blown up on a nice vinyl transfer. let me know if you would like to borrow it. randy

Try this. Second thread on this search has a post from Derek and all the links for the Nova Star specs still open Showing results for 'nova star manual'. - Toyota Motorhome Discussion Board Linda S

Five years ago I purchased this 1990 Toyota Sunrader 18' with the 3.0 V6. It had only 68,000 miles and was in excellent, well maintained condition. Every appliance worked, nothing was out of sorts, so I drove it sight unseen from Colorado Springs back to Reno, and it ran perfect the entire way. At the time I didn't quite realize how rare the 18' V6 Sunrader actually was; there were only about a dozen made - more rare than the 4x4 which only came as a four cylinder. In these past five years my lady and I have taken this rig all over the West on dozens of adventures, and it has never failed us one time. The rig is as solid as an old Toyota can ever be. Now I am finally getting time to do the big project - a 4x4 conversion with a five speed manual transmission. The main purpose of this swap is easily being able to drive in snowy/slippery conditions so we don't have to 'chain up' on the freeway. Even with the current BFG all-terrain tires, the 2wd platform for a rig this heavy with all its weight towards the back makes it rather sketchy on steep descents. Going over Teton Pass last winter with ice and snow on the road and locals tailgating the hell out of me was terrifying. The brakes are so powerful they can lock up the wheels easily, the 4 speed automatic transmission not only kills any available power the 3.0 has, but it also is not geared nearly low enough for confident engine braking downhill in slippery conditions, and the suspension has such little travel that the rig regularly bounces off its front bump stops. The plan is to swap in a solid front axle from a 1985 Toyota 4x4, a R150 5 speed transmission and stock transfer case from a 3.0 V6 powered 4runner, regearing both axles from 4.10 to 4.88, installing a three inch lift with leaf springs, and running wheel adapters from 6x7.25" bolt pattern to 6x5.5" bolt pattern on the stock 1 ton full-float rear axle. I'll be running 33" all-terrain tires on 16" rims, going single rear wheel instead of duallys. I have a 1985 4Runner that I built from a stock truck into a rock crawler years ago, so I know my way around old Toyotas pretty well. Wanted to document the process for anyone who is considering this project. Here we go!

I don't know if this will work but it's a complete repair manual for Toyota diesel engines. You just scroll down but probably be easier to print a huge book like the original Toyota L 2L 2LT repair manual 1984.pdf - Google Drive Linda S

The chassis is either a 620 or 720 Datsun pickup. Any do it yourself repair manual (Chiltons/Haynes) for 1979 model year should have instructions for tank removal. Also good to have around for other repairs. Think of your rig as a Datsun pickup with a camper attached. Makes ordering mechanical parts much easier.

and this one! it looks like its been well cared for: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/rvs/d/seattle-rv-1988-toyota-nova-star-21-foot/7530249895.html

Ok, so I have another thread on accessing top of air bladder fitting. I also have this problem. This has a 1985 2l-t diesel motor. It is a turbo with 5sp. The unit is almost pristine. I am just starting to have a problem with blow by. I do not have a lot of experience with diesels. I think they only imported this engine a couple of years. but variants are still in Europe. I am getting a fair amount of pressure coming out of valve cover vent tube and if I remove the oil fill cap it jiggles. My compression is 330 to600 from cylinder1 to 4. Minimum for factory is 275. Anyway, when I went to start this spring I saw oil was high. I drained almost a quart. In the bottom I found a few specs of green which has to be antifreeze. It is not overheating yet and no signs of milky or pressuring the coolant system. I bought a new head last fall when I started to to notice the blow by. I have the factory manual for engine. The head is bare as that generation does not come with the valves, so everything needs to be transferred. I am looking for a diesel mechanic to help with this. I can do most of the work, but I don't want to get stuck. I am in the lehigh valley area of pa (Allentown). Of course I will pay. Just hate for this unit to basically die because of this as it really is in very good shape. Everything works and has no rust. Even has a diesel generator. Thanks for any help

Hello All, I am a new proud owner of a 1988 18ft Nissan Sunrader with a V6 and 5-Speed Manual transmission! I plan on doing some updating and renovations over time and have tried to research on my own. I still have some initial questions if you don't mind assisting me as I understand that there are a lot. 1) The vinyl Covering in the first picture needs to be replaced. Do you have any recommendations on how to do that or any suggestions for upgrading the insulation in that area? 2) Does anyone know what the two ends of the grey wire in the second picture are supposed to connect to? 3) Can someone tell me what type of replacement weather stripping that I need for the cab door in the third picture? 4) The only clearance light that is currently working is on the rear bottom on the drivers side. Does anyone have any insight as to what the issue might be?

You see more black positive in more modern campers it follows house wiring black hot white ground. Red is also used as + in house wiring also. My Nova Star was green and blue go figure. My 1990 camper is black and white on lighting, heavy DC loads red+. The RV DC stuff does not have to follow NEMA excet on AC wiring (outlets, AC, water heaters any thing that's AC powered.

I've tested the previous owners battery earlier in the week and they had drained it past the point of recognition so I went out and purchased the cheapest rv deep life battery i could find at autozone for like $120. Heres the strange part so riddle me this.... previous owners had this dead battery in this i assume acid proof box that you can either access via latch from the outside or underneath the couch dinette seating.... however all these wires run from the battery (remember dinette side) to the couch side where my converter and electrical panel are.... so once i removed the dead battery I didnt even wanna oooo with that old setup so I just placed my battery near my electrical panel for the time being until I build my Solar board with all my gadgets n what not. but I noticed in the manual provided by the previous owners it states the house battery should live under the hood alongside the starter battery? crazy

Well I'm almost with 86 New World project after conquering putting a 92 22re in a 86 motorhome and having to have my mechanic figure out how to wire up the ecu. Painted all except the cab in raptor liner 3 different colors. Last big thing I had to do was put the 4 speed transmission in it that I had bought used. Got it hooked up, took it on a test drive and it won't shift into 3rd or 4th gear. Shifts smooth into 1st 2nd and Reverse but when shift to 3rd there is no grinding no noise it's just nothing. Release the clutch after I thought it was in 3rd and it feels like neutral, same with 4th. I have a new shifter socket and seat ordered from marlin crawler. I have flushed and bleed the clutch with new fluid also. And filled with the correct level of gear oil. Anyone have any ideas.

Is there a Harbor Freight near you? These look like they might do the trick and they're pretty cheap 3 Piece Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers (harborfreight.com) Linda S I also have a nice parts manual with detailed diagrams that might help 981-0238_I13_200911 (pbworks.com)

Question in regards to "just plug it in" when talking about the shore power and converter.... I recently purchased a 89' dolphin myself and the previous owners have haphazardly wired everything and nothing matches the manual's schematics. Well after some tinkering I got my 12v running off a new lead sealed battery from autozone however i noticed that after a while my lights start to dim and what not despite my engine running and being plugged into a 110 source. I take it that means my old converter is fucked correct? because shouldnt I just be able to take my shore connection and plug it into any 110 outlet in my rv and that would allow it to recharge? or is there some special outlet i need to be looking for? been a snooper for a bit now, love the forum yall.

The day has come, and I finally bought my 'Yoda' ~ "judge me by my size, do you?" It's a 1987 Nova Star by New Horizon and I'm curious whether anyone owns one and has any info they'd like to share (ie, spec sheets, electrical diagrams, knowledge, etc.). Although it's in great shape, I'm finding out labor costs for repairs can quickly add up (replaced shackle bushings, converter, stove electrical board & thermostat, leaky propane valve). Regardless, I think it's worth every penny! tks, Tim

No difference manual or auto and I did the search for only the 22re, no turbo. I really couldn't think of how it could not fit. If anyone else here has some input, I'd like to hear it please Linda S There are some very reasonably priced ones on eBay

Thanks for the replies! @linda s My Dolphin is manual, not automatic, does that make a difference?

We just purchased this camper. 1991 Toyota fiesta by Vehicle concepts. Automatic. Have any of you found a photo of the original? Or a manual? I am looking to wrap it with original decals and would love to see the original styling. Thanks!

6 cylinder Manual transmission Colorado vehicle No rust 145,000+/- miles New tires One-ton rear axle w/ duallies Fresh paint, shower paneling, upholstery and countertops. We are the third owners. The original owner sold it a few years ago to a gentleman who we know. He only owned it a few years and decided he was getting too old for it. We have all of the original paperwork, brochures, etc. plus paperwork from second owner. Asking $15,000 Vehicle is currently in Colorado but splits time in Quartzite and other parts of AZ. Contact for details peabodybidsearly@gmail.com thanks!

If the GFI is tripping the GFI is a AC issue. Nothing battery powered light's, fans etc. If you have things plugged in unplug them all of them, plug the camper back in and what happens. If the GFI doesn't trip plug them in one at a time. The AC is line powered and fridge possibly is too make sure they are off. It is possible your converter can cause tripping but only on the AC side. Older GFI were finicky and had a lot off tripping issues if all else fails replace it they are cheap. Coach wiring color is not industry standard you might find any thing. Usually white is ground black is + it's more common but you can't count on it. My Nova Star + was blue and ground was green.

I don't know how the Nova Star is built, but the Sunraider's have a problem of not enough cross support in the floor. After time and miles the weight of the shell pressing down on the unsupported floor would cause the floor to sag at the edges. That maybe what your seeing, not the floor swelling up.

Needing a 1977 Toyota chinook transmission. I'm in the Bay Area in California. I'd be eternally grateful for any leads, or suggestions. Manual, 20R.

Thanks Linda! I removed the side bolts (last picture I uploaded) and that was it! Sliding it out presently. I'll DL the manual for future possible ref 🙂

Here's an installation manual for a Norcold probably the same size. Don't know if it's the same as yours but they are probably all installed very much the same. Maybe you can figure out what's holding it in IM_N4N5N510_622265B_0901.pdf (norcold.com) Linda S