Ctgriffi

Here are the Sway-a-way bars: https://swayaway.com/product/torsion-bar-set-84-95-toyota-pickup-2wd/ (available to ship by end of July, according to their rep. just now) I'd like to do the same on my '90 at some point—barely could get the ride height set correctly when I rebuilt the front end, most likely because my old TBs are worn out. Seems like new ones would help with the frequent banging/crashing up front, over what appear to be pretty tame road imperfections.

Finally sold off our old $120 Craigslist special, a 15 year-old Wen 3500, and upgraded to a new Champion 2500 watt inverter-style generator. First impressions: I really like the weight of this thing at just 39lbs dry. The old Wen was about 110lbs and very difficult to haul around, not to mention the stress on the rear cargo rack. Materials and build quality look pretty good, and I also like the fuel shut-off knob, handy LED status indicators, and rubber outlet covers to limit dust/moisture. 3-year warranty is another plus. I'm still doing the 5hr break-in period with the provided 10W-30, but I can already verify that it definitely handles the roof A/C on high, plus our Norcold in 120v mode. (My A/C has an EasyStart 364 Soft Starter unit.) Only holds 1.1 gallons of fuel, which means that it'll need refilling every couple hours with high usage—not a big problem when highway cruising and stopping regularly for gas, but would be pretty tiresome if boondocking. Not crazy about the noise level, which is pretty disappointing. This thing is supposed to be among the quietest, but when running near max-capacity, it's probably still 85% as loud as the old open-frame Wen! Of course, the Champion is much quieter in eco-mode, when you're only pulling a few hundred watts, but that's not how we're typically going to be using it. Always pros and cons, especially when you can't drop huge money on a Honda. Any thoughts or recommendations? Should I keep it? 😀

I’ve got same model. Brown wire might be power to cruise control if you have it. The metal tang on the end should be slipped in next to any fuse on the box near driver’s left shin.

I second the chain suggestion! Make it a good heavy one with a hardened padlock, if you can

Goodness. And. You. Enjoy. Periods. Got any pics of that new hyper-miling, showroom rig of yours?

I went through a similar situation on my 91 Warrior (louder and louder over a year's time) and discovered that the crossmember directly under the radiator was badly rusted and going to pieces (not super uncommon, unfortunately). There's a hefty, important strut from each lower control arm that stretches forward and bolts to the underside of that exact crossmember. It was difficult to troubleshoot this situation and land on a good repair, but I felt much better when it was fixed and have never heard the dreaded groaning/creaking since. Note: If your chassis is in decent condition without a ton of rust under there, then my experience probably doesn't apply. Best to take a good look.

I wish we had more time to enjoy the journey like you described, because these old rigs really come into their own when cruising down low-traffic, country roads! Unfortunately, we're just not in that phase of life yet, where that's a consistent possibility But, to address your conundrum: the current version of Google Maps does offer the "bicycle" routing option (yes, haha) which kind of does what you describe: keeps you off the interstates and puts you on local roads with some state highways. There is also the option to download maps on that platform if there's a danger of losing your cell-data service en route, and it does a pretty good job of intelligently re-routing in heavy-traffic scenarios (when connected to data). Some folks don't like the privacy concerns involved with a Google or online/cloud navigation solution. Which is fine, but thought it was worth mentioning in this discussion.

Not sure if you’re looking for a long term, semi permanent solution. But when we camp I try to find (or reserve) a mostly level spot, then adjust rear airbags with a small 12V compressor to tweak the front-to-back and left-to-right levels, until close enough. Blocks for front tires might be necessary occasionally but not looking for perfection...

Thanks for posting; that is gorgeous. But with 5 days to go and already $18K... gonna be BIG money.

Yeah, was trying to recall... think it was close to $200, parts and labor. Mine was leaking pretty good at the input shaft, and I believe that seal is accessible on the older boxes. However, it was a "captured" seal on my newer 91 Warrior steering gear, which was another reason that I didn't get into it myself.

I had a significant leak on my steering box as well and, after weighing the pros and cons, found a local shop that basically does nothing but rebuild steering gears. I generally like to give these things a try, but from what I've read, it can be a tricky job and seems like many DIY-ers who attempt it aren't happy with the end result. It was worth it to me to just drop it off, pick it up in a week, and pay the man.

I've tried both of the available, standard options for my 20-ft Warrior: The standard Class C cover was enormous and billowed out all around the base of the vehicle... but it worked, for a few years. I am currently using a Sprinter style cover that I mostly prefer, although it has the opposite problem—coverage ends well above the ground and doesn't quite cover the side-walls. But, the roof, windows, and door are my main concern, so I'm sticking with the Sprinter version.

I don’t like bright, white light either, especially in a small RV coach where you’re trying to enjoy R&R. These have worked well for us over the past year (soft white version): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRV73YK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_fabc_X2FYH2QF4PTDAD5WM7E5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

They're on the control arms and support the wheel hub assemblies. One ball joint on top and one below, each side. May or may not have zerk fittings for greasing...

I swapped all of mine for a 24-set of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LUG-NUT-Gorilla-14mm-x-1-50-Acorn-Bulge-HT-PN-91148HT-Bulk-U-Pick-Quantity/154322650066?epid=532378561&hash=item23ee58c3d2:g:xfEAAOSwOR1ei4aY They are heat-treated and quality seemed good for the money. Some bling doesn’t hurt either. They do require a different sized wrench than the originals, so plan accordingly...

“Mintage”... that’s a new one for me, but I like it, haha! Sounds like you’ve already made up your mind, but I’d probably be running a gen off the back bumper to power the roof AC, with a fan or two to push the air up front. Awful handy to have one of those along anyways, and it won’t tax your little diesel.

It’s a very nice one, incredibly low miles. Up to 15K with a day to go...

Big box home stores usually have it, although only in plain white in my experience (special order for different colors). RV repair shop might sell you a piece or two.

I did exactly what you’re describing when I put a Fantastic Fan in the rear bath of my 91 Warrior a few years back. Worked out great, no issues. Use a high quality product (ie Dicor) and plenty of it.

I can’t remember if those two nuts were identical... I think the upper one, the lock nut, was slightly shorter, which seems to be what the parts diagram is showing. I’d probably purchase both nuts, for both sides, since they’re pretty inexpensive. They tend to take a beating when removed after 30+ years and you don’t want to round them off! Btw, no sense in tightening the upper locknut down, until you get it all finished, off the jack stands, and complete the ground-to-frame measurements (as seen in manual).

It's not compressed; that's the normal length. As you can see in your photo—basically same as what you pulled off.

Great to hear your update, Rachel, and thanks for posting some of your photos. Also, that dog is super cool. Always good to have a buddy on the road, especially when traveling alone!

Those are the Mevotech BJs, yeah? Grease em up.

Yep, looks right from here.

I used the new pin that was provided, with the offset and cotter pin, etc. No problems. You're gonna love how much better that thing drives/handles, once it's all said and done, btw. Keep it up!