Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JayBees

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1991 Winnebago Warrior
  • Location

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

428 profile views

JayBees's Achievements

  1. Ok, shocks are on. After seeing videos of people using floor jacks to compress the shock and fight with it to get it mounted I guess I was expecting more of a struggle. Went on by hand without much fuss. Started this particular thread several months ago but much of this downtime has been waiting for parts. Rear suspension now has new KYB shocks, new Air Lift bags, new Energy Suspension poly bushings, new greasable shackles and hanger pins (very hard to find right now). Oh, and new u-bolts. There is so much left to do on this rv (thinking about it can get a bit daunting) but for now I’m gonna slap the tires back on and move it off to the side of the barn. I’ve got a pontoon boat that needs a lot of attention before the start of the season. Thanks to all who helped. Here’s some pics.
  2. I should point out that the rv is currently on stands placed just in front of the rear wheels. The rear wheels are off and my only floor jack is under the differential. With the suspension jacked up the bottom of the shock (compressed) is too short to meet up with the bottom mount (by 1”). As is I’d have to cut the retaining strap then compress or push the shock back up to get it on. Linda S- your saying get the wheels back on, lower the vehicle to the floor and then jack one side up. You mention having to pull down on the shock. I’m probably not visualizing this correctly but I’m thinking either way I do this, once I cut the strap I’m gonna be pushing back up to fit it on that bottom post. Wish I’da kept my gym membership.
  3. Linda S- sounds like your saying cut the retaining strap that keeps the shock compressed. Any idea how far they extend?
  4. Small hiccup while trying to install rear shocks. Wanted to jack up the rear axle to the height of the compressed shocks and slip em on and cut the retaining straps but looks like it’s an 1” shy and maxed out. It’s a ‘91 Warrior that used to have an old air assist on the leaf springs but now I’ve put a new air lift over the axle. May be that’s preventing the suspension from compressing any further? Then again, i hope i got the right shocks, they’re KYB 5438’s. The jack is about maxed out and the rv is starting to lift off the stands. Guess I’m gonna have to cut the straps.
  5. WME- took the jack tension off and things seem fine. Leaves are all still in alignment, a bit sprung like in my photo but that probably has a lot to do with the rv pitched to one side. Had a trucking shop make me new u bolts just a hair longer but haven’t tried to put the works back together yet. Removed rear shock and it’s toast so ordered a set of KYB’s. Waiting for those to arrive and I’ll slap it all together. Thanks for the help.
  6. WME- yeah, that’s where I messed up, I think. The rv only has jack stand on one side. The bottom photo I posted should show how tipped to one side the rv is. The photo above it shows the current state of the leaf springs. You’re saying that releasing the jack lift on the axle will take strain off the springs (despite the tilt of the rv)?
  7. WME- the u bolts have already been removed. The problem now is the leaf spring has loosened and I need to figure out how I’m gonna compress it enough so that the new u bolts will reach and can be tightened.
  8. Update- with weight off the axle I managed to get all four nuts off the u bolts, 1 was especially stubborn. BUT-I was under the leaf spring and when I got the final nut off, the spring expanded. It didn’t hit me but diffenitely got my attention. I also failed to note that the plate that holds the u bolts also holds the bottom of the shock and flung loose as well. Wonder if this all happened because the vehicle is so tipped? Guess I’ll need to put the jack lift under the leaf and raise it so I can connect air bag to frame? Also considering replacing the shocks. No idea how old they are and this may be the easiest access I’m gonna get.
  9. Fred heath- frame is supported. Shortest jack I got is a 6 ton at 11.5”, so the rv is elevated on the drivers side a fair bit. My angle grinder take 5” discs, waiting for some to arrive by mail. Meanwhile, I’ll try one more time with the breaker bar. Thanks for the input, everyone.
  10. john*thomas- they do have threaded nuts. From what I’ve been able to dig up on forums like this, it’s common for them to be seized on and cutting is often regarded as easier since they’re usually replaced anyhow. I tried to remove them once but was using a breaker bar with an adapter. The adapter snapped in half. I may try again and use the jack to release more tension on the axle/spring (and not use an adapter).
  11. Trying to install air lift suspension bags over axle on a ‘91 Warrior that hasn’t been driven in over a decade. A bit nervous about cutting the u bolts, wanna make sure I’m doing it safely. Vehicle’s on jack stand, trying to decide if I have enough tension off the leaf spring.
  12. Appreciate the input. Guess I’ll try it. Got clamps on them right now to try and get a good seal on the butyl tape. I have dicor and I’ll coat the exterior well. Down the road if I notice any separation I’ll bite the bullet and screw em down.
  13. I have a ‘91 Winnebago Warrior. Putting in new maxxair fans front and back. The original vents I removed were held in solely with butyl tape and lap sealant with no issues. The new vent fans are slightly larger with a wider lip or mounting edge around them (and several areas around the lip with screw hole points). I’m sure the standard practice is screw down but man the thought of punching new holes makes me cringe. The roof is only about an inch thick with thin sheet of aluminum over thin plywood, rigid foam center, and another thin sheet of plywood on bottom. I’m not sure what kind of holding power screws would even have in this material. Just curious if anyone has had luck installing vents without screws.
  14. MaineErik- a 2 battery with solar setup like you have is what I'd like to go to. It'd be nice to save weight and use 1 small battery but I need more capacity for cloudy days as you mentioned. From what I can find on the internet, to have 200-300ah capacity is going to mean 120 to130lbs of battery at least. WME- I like the idea of the slide out tray. I'll need to do some measuring. Thanks for the info.
  15. jjrbus- this looks like what I want to do. Current battery box is very small and accessible only from outside (it's under the dinette like yours). I gather from your photo the box you made is below floor level? I'll have to see if I have room for that. Btw, what's your preferred method for keeping this charged.
  • Create New...