Odyssey 4x4

Thank you! I am using this expensive little booger. Four of them to be exact!

Some RV's have "smart chargers" that lower charging voltage to a battery maintaining voltage to not hurt the battery once it's fully charged. Some old RVs did not have smart chargers and would cook the battery by overcharging it once it was charged. Look up the model number on your charger and check online to see if it's a smart charger. Very clean Odyssey by the way!

I’ve had a clogged cat in the past on a different type of vehicle. If you ran the vehicle at night, the cat would eventually glow red.

When I had my leaf spring U-bolts bent at my local heavy frame and axle shop it looks like they could do just about anything suspension related.

yeah mine is the rear dinette and an awesome layout. I think I’m going to keep the rubber roof design, they seem to do alright from what I’ve seen

What’s the issue with a rubber roof? My 1990 odyssey had one and it was in wonderful shape when I pulled it off.

Hey folks, hope everyone is well in these strange times. The work continues on the Odyssey camper. We've got the white ceiling panels installed minus the joint covers, lights and fan/ac openings are cut out. Lights installed with temporary wiring and dimmer switch. The rear dinette framing is mostly built out. We did a partition design to separate the dinette a bit from the rest of the camper, the partition pieces are also structural, providing support from floor to ceiling to give a lot of support to the roof, especially around the air conditioner weight to prevent sag. From the pics you can also see that we have knocked out a good amount of the upper cabinetry framing. We the elimination of the original refrigerator (which sat right next to the door from floor to ceiling when you walked into the camper), we gained a bunch of counter top space as well as overhead cabinet space. Tomorrow we will frame out the lower cabinetry. The driver side of the truck will be the sink location and counter top somewhere around 36" wide between the dinette and the closet we designed. The passenger side of the vehicle will have the longgg counter top. We should have enough room to incorporate not only the Atwood stove but also the dometic dual zone 12v cooler/refrigerator under the counter top. This thing is starting to come together!

With some google searching you can see that this has been done many times in many ways

Oh boy I don't want to think about it! I haven't been keeping a tab on receipts but we haven't been cheeping out on parts along the way. When I get nearer the end of the build I am going to try to get a rough estimate together on investment!

That before and after photo is very satisfying, can’t wait to do mine!

well for reference, my Bilsteins were $80 each and can be swapped in about 30 minutes with a simple jack and jack stand.

Diodes it's gonna be!

If only sellers would answer these questions honestly lol

Wow looks great!

I have also seen this rig be sold "uncompleted" or being worked on multiple times, this is usually for a reason. Did they state why they're trying to sell?

Ah okay, i'm familiar with that rig from its internet past. Honestly, if I were you, I'd pass. This is a straight up project rig for the mechanic hobbyist and gear head. AKA high maintenance and lots of work to keep her going and maintained. Highly custom and one of a kind means that you are going to have a hard time finding anyone to want to work on this if you don't have the mechanical skills yourself, and when you do they're gonna charge ya. Also, the high center of gravity from the custom lift looks pretty sketchy for any type of speed!

We'd all love to see this rig for a better idea. I checked country wide craigslist and didn't see it! The only 4x4 sunrader I've been able to find for sale is this beauty. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/rvs/d/south-san-francisco-1987-toyota/7110507461.html

I should add that I'd like to accomplish this without the use of a traditional 3-way switch. I will be using a standard switch in the rear camper section of the truck, but the cab will be utilizing one of those "switch pods" which makes the 3-way not an option upfront as far as I can tell?

I wanted to get some other folks opinions on this for my project. I am going to have LED exterior lights on my odyssey 4x4 build. One front, one rear, and one on each side. Each will have their own dedicated switch in the cab of the truck, running off of the truck battery. I want to also install a single "emergency" switch in the coach of the camper to hit and light up all 4 lights instantaneously from the single switch. I would power the lights from this button to the coach battery. Does anyone have any advice regarding this type of setup? I am somewhat familiar with 3-way AC switches, but was curious if anything had any advice regarding my described setup on the 12v setup?

I guess it depends on the reason you want it? Collectors value, cool factor, usability? Being a 4x4 gives it some advantages but these things are by no means off road machines. It’s still going to be expensive to fix and maintain no matter how clean, it’s old and things are gonna break. It’s gonna be super slow as well!

The 6 lug rims of that style are getting tough to find but they pop up here and there

Looks like a 1-ton to me

As previously mentioned, if your wire from your isolator was going to the charger/converter rather than directly to the battery, it certainly would explain the shore issue if the charger/converter is malfunctioning. Isolator should be putting out more than 7 volts too.

You need to test it with the vehicle running, the isolator is "closed" when engine is off and shouldn't be sending any power to coach battery. Turn truck on, isolator opens, isolator should send 12v+ to coach battery. Some smart isolators won't send power to coach battery until truck battery is at a certain "charged" voltage.

Start tracing 12V from your running truck's battery through the isolator to fuse block and see where the power stops