WME

1. Derek is right somebody broke an ear off the compressor. 2. Your missing this...https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Conditioner-EC-0008C-Eccentric/dp/B003R3ZG0G/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ec0008c+idler+pulley&m=A13BLDU2WSRY6U&qid=1582780117&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1 Also the pulley and bolt. The bracket comes in different heights to provide proper belt alignment. Your system looks like it is using a standard cogged v-belt, check the number on it. 3. Here is a very poor picture of how things go. Maybe Derek can dig up a better one....https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/1984-1985-1986-1987-1988-1989-1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-1995-toyota-pickup-and-4-runner-air-conditioning-add-on-kit/

Everything goes back together with Torx bolts and screws

Changing drive shaft length is old school stuff. For Toys the front shaft is stock from the transmission to the center bearing. The mfg stretched the rear shaft the same as the frame stretch. Just cut the shaft at the u joint flanges. Place them in a jig and weld in a new longer tube. Afterwards you have to re-balance the drive shaft If your company made enough MHs then you would just order finished shafts from a job shop

Post a picture of the AC compressor and belts. Most of these Toy homes came with aftermarket A/Cs and each brand is different.

Yes, Rustoleum has a bed liner kit you can get at Walmart. Its barely OK for a pickup bed. BUT you are going to use it in a protected area. You just want the sound reduction and weather sealing. For use in the cab check out Dyna Mat and its clones. Low budget plan B is this stuff...https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-products/deck-flashing-supports/12-x-25-deck-flashing-tape/dfb1225/p-1462879491609-c-5728.htm If $$ is a problem then a can of flex seal just for the wheel wells

Both my brother and myself have the 3500w Predator for house backup power. He is in Santa Cruz and has about 30 hr on his after one season of PG&E safety blackouts. I have about 1.5 hr on mine, winter storm related. HF fails to mention that its is battery electric start which is nice You would have to reinforce the frame and bumper to safely carry that much weight. Money is a big deal these days, but you might think about a smaller A/C that will run off a 2300/2400 inverter generator. OR a pair of the Ryobi sized units in parallel and use your 13.5k unit. You can turn a knob and seal the fuel tank then run the carb dry and have no smell. Then store them in your shower for transportation. Just chain them to your bumper when they are outside.

I had a 13.5kbtu A/C and an onan 2800 microlite gen-set. Above 90 degrees it would NOT RELIABLY restart the A/C without tripping the generator. I added a hot start cap and it solved the problem. Even with a hot start cap I don't think a Ryobi 2300 has enough power to restart your A/C Experimenting cost $$, so here are 2 choices https://rv-ac.com/Easy-RV-AC-Starter.html this is a timer setup. It starts the compressor first, then starts the fan. So your not getting hit with 2 different surges at the same time. https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6cyuss7g5wIVLh-tBh04XQ8OEAQYBCABEgKiFPD_BwE&variant=30176048267 This cost the most, but is very smart. It steps up the voltage to the A/C in steps and greatly reduces the surge by spreading it out over time. P.S. Harbor Freight has a very nice 3000w inverter generator

Pick up bed liner on wheel wells and around the seams. You wouldn't believe how much dust leaks in where the plastic wheel wells mate against the wood floor. 2 coats, waterproofing and sound reduction. Best thing is it sorta cheap

I'm using the tape as a "UV" protector for my roll up awning. With the awning rolled up I put a double wide strip of the tape on the exposed part of the awning fabric. Two years, so far so good. There is no puddling to deal with so that may have help it survive. If I have to redo it every 3/4 years it will be worth it. I think for roof work Eternabond is what you should use

Post tire size and check tire mfg dates. Tires are 600-1000$

"No matter how many times I cut it, its still to short😁" Start with tubing that to long add the bend and cut to fit

Take a plate of 1/4" aluminum 4"x4" cut a 1"x1" notch in the in the middle of the top, "U shaped". Cut the cross beam to the EXACT length needed. Install the cross beamput glue in the notch and slide the plates up into place. Bolt the plates in. The walls of the notch will take the shear forces. I suppose you could even use 1/2" plywood for the U bracket.

You can easily reverse the sway bar. Mount the cross bar to the frame and connect the arms to the axle. Look at the front end setup.

Its a sway bar, but its mounted weird. Linda is right about possible axle travel reduction. Remove the rear duallys from one side and see if the axle mount is going to hit anything. There are perfectly fine sway bar mounts, unused on the axle. If the current mounts hits something just remount the bar.

Same amount of weight, same wall thickness, same tubing size. Steel deflection .8", aluminum deflection 2.4"

A rectangular tubing on edge is very stiff. Flat it is not much different than square tubing. 3/4" is about 4x stiffer than 1/2", 1" is about 12x stiffer.

This is a YGTBSM moment but take the valve cover off and check the half-moon plugs. Possible but more like what Maineah said a messed up vacuum hose.

tape measure inside, plumb bob outside

I would guss its aboit 1" on each side. If you have gutted yours, take a measurement at the rear of the shell. That's the strongest part, about a foot from the rear, would let you know how wide the shell is. Then move that measurement to the middle and you should get an idea of what the walls should looks. You could also use a plumb bob taped to the parting line and see what the measurement is at the bottom of the shell. Do it in the middle and see how far things have to move to make it right. To do things right you need a center line on the floor too.

The technical term is "drift angle". If the sides of a mould are straight it is very hard to remove the part. By making the open end of the mould wider by a small amount removal becomes much easier. The part will pop out. With a 2 piece shell top and bottom you get a wedge shaped side. DO NOT try to make straight sides

Multiple choices depend on your craftiness and wallet thickness 🤪 1. Wrecking yard get everything from a 22r truck... gearbox, pump, hoses and brackets $$ 2. Wrecking yard get gearbox from a 22r truck... get aftermarket electric power steering pump.$$$...https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2013-VOLVO-S40-C30-C70-V50-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-OEM/254430204321?fits=Make%3AVolvo&hash=item3b3d38d1a1:g:9TMAAOSw50Vd1~zB 3. After market electric shaft conversion. $$$$...https://epasperformance.com/products/custom-power-steering-kit

With your voltmeter hook the - lead to the engine block and + ton the alternator post. You should have 13.5v+. If this test is good you may have a bad engine to chassis ground or even a bad ground lead on the battery

Maybe so, but I posted it so that the OP can see what he has. There are remans available on EBAY, the $$ are from 250 -500. The quality may be as varied as the prices. You need to see a photo of exactly what you are buying, that model number has at least 2 different hose/charging ports setups. The OP photos show that his has been converted to R134 with an aftermarket kit. You have to wonder if that conversion was plug n play or was done properly.

Well its not a Sanden. but here is the exact one...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Kiki-Zexel-Seltec-DKS15BH-Compressor/174070583886?hash=item28876a524e:g:pSIAAOSwk-Bdq4Jl

Maybe this one?? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Sanden-508-V-Belt-A-C-Compressor-Plain,8581.html?sku=42813459&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvNf-pI6Q5wIVhcJkCh0i9AdpEAQYAyABEgIcn_D_BwE