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Otolith

Toyota Advanced Member
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  1. I’m pretty certain the clicking is not actually the igniter. I’m familiar with the igniter sound. This sound is a single click every 10-20 seconds and I take the cover of the fridge panel so I can tell it is actually coming from the panel. It is the same sound that occurs when you press the power button on the front of the fridge. This is strange because it was happening regardless of if I was on shore power or battery or turned off. Like it was stuck trying to turn on somehow. Now that clicking has stopped but the fridge is acting strange. Basically, it doesn’t always turn on. Sometim
  2. I replaced this when I replaced the battery isolator. However the clicking is coming from the power board on the fridge. The fridge seems to turn on sometimes but not always.
  3. You’re right I need to get someone who knows this stuff in the camper to check it out. The electronics work on shore power but the fridge just clicks. Even though it was working on shore and house battery before the house battery died.
  4. It is the 3 way fridge. I didn’t change any wiring although I may have bridged the posts on the multi battery isolator which I’m replacing tomorrow. However, the fridge and other electronics worked fine after bridging the isolator. But after recharging the house battery they still don’t work.
  5. That's cool I haven't seen those. Thanks for the help
  6. The only question I would have with this is how the fridge worked properly for a year. And it was on for the few days before it started acting up. But I think you are on to something, as I'm not getting ANY of the electronics to work one house power. Only on shore power. Fuses are good, breaker didn't flip. The wiring is a mess of different colors with splices and duct tape. I'm having a hard time making sense of it.
  7. To make things more confusing - The fridge has been clicking like this for a few days regardless of if I am on shore, house, or no power. The fridge's LED never shows anything, but if you stick your hand in the freezer, it seems that it has been cooling. Any ideas?
  8. Merry Christmas! I can't seem to figure out what is going on with the electric system in my 1980 17' Sunrader. 1. I think I solved the first problem - I'm pretty sure I accidentally bridged the battery isolator while replacing the clutch master cylinder. So now the coach battery isn't charging from the alternator. I have a new isolator in the mail. 2. MAIN PROBLEM: The fridge (Norcold N510) is making a click noise from what seems like the middle of the control panel on the back. The sound is every 10 seconds or so and it does not sound like ignition attempt. It's a pron
  9. I believe I've seen this one. Doesn't look great, exactly, but would get the job done I'm sure.
  10. I'm considering 4x4 truck options for swapping my 17' Sunrader onto. I am open to diesel, though I'm not totally sure of the diesel situation in Baja. So it may have to be an older diesel. I've seen the Sunrader paired with a Tundra, Tacoma, maybe even a nissan and chevy? I don't believe I've seen an F-150 or Ranger Sunrader. Or a Dodge. Any input from those of you that have taken these projects on or looked into them would be great. Just looking for ideas and vehicles to start researching. thanks
  11. Yeah that’s a good point... under the dash might be the happy medium
  12. Thanks Derek you are a wealth of info. Looks like I don’t have indicators. Will have to do it the old fashioned way Any advice on where to put an inverter? My house battery is in the engine bay. I'm thinking about putting the inverter in the engine bay with a remote switch and an extension for an outlet. Thoughts?
  13. Thanks all. 4 leaks later and it works as it should. Maybe a stupid question... How do you know the Grey and black water tanks levels?
  14. Do these have different timing than non-rv 20r motors? Mine just has an 8, then it has an indented mark next to a raised mark but both of these are offset (to the left) of the 8 instead of directly underneath it. The vehicle is good under power but has a slight miss at idle and a tiny bit of wavering at idle. I went through the steps to set the low and high idles. Also, the compression was something like 160, 135, 155, 125 (I don't have them with me) Then wet compression was something like 160 150 155 145. I believe the car sat for a bit. Possible
  15. Thanks for that. After I fixed that one, I noticed the city water valve was leaking. Another thing to replace On another note, anyone have good solutions for relocating the propane tank? I have a diamond plate truck tool box I'd like to put on the back of the vehicle. But this blocks the propane access. Options are 1. Relocating propane in rv 2. Swing out cargo box 3. Relocate propane to cargo box? A bit sketchy back there. The access for mine is currently above the rear bumper.
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