extech

vacuum cleaner is your friend for this job. clean everything so no bad stuff gets inside

in my experience injector cleaner only helps keep injectors clean. once plugged the only fix is replacement

your mount is on https://www.ebay.com/itm/266234178132?hash=item3dfccb2a54%3Ag%3AP68AAOSwA4JkR9ok&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4MxRfz7hSUXziIUhqgIQplChKTuF60EBsOKFmOtxOsItONjlHymSQ%2F7VHZ9seTU7bCDQt2yHyIMeIkd%2FIO1Iq22fWH800Yaf1GwXup6qiGxX%2FYoMhr8o27l3Qtv7lBK%2BoPfPzwrKCUb6GkCmVLU46fiWaU1Kt1%2BY1%2BpGdAyqnYWCxrkzcBr%2BLomNmC3oKUcyQQ9MawnLpybHVbcOmPL8XGCEtionQfKIHS5pMTpymBsi4IedF6yFLUVCymka9MSWV8dlreyZNm3JRDCAlwRthl%2Ft2Zz3iN%2B4P0G07rQ7uMXk|tkp%3ABk9SR4TIq4z3YQ&LH_ItemCondition=4

the 'click' is usually a bad connection. is it an onan micro lite?

do not use trailer tires

don't get rid of the dually wheels-- they're worth big$

heads up. don't know if this is commonly known, but i was under my rig to check trans fluid and replace fuel filter. went to get up and as usual i grab the mirror mount to help myself up. water poured out of the mirror in my face. got up and pulled down the rubber an drain the rest. that surely would have rusted out quickly

man i want to see the diamond t

i changed all mine to leds no problems with making connection. cheap on amazon- equivalent to 1157 thats in there now. 1156 for the back up bulb

that stuff is dialectric silicon. its a corrosion preventative. buy it auto parts stores and yes the led lights above would work. more for you to do

just change the bulbs to bright led's. may need to change the flasher too to go with the led lights

truck battery only charges when the engine is running. if it needs a charge you could connect a battery charger plugged into one of your house ac outlets when connected to shore power

you could get a bigger outside door and move the fill higher

with shore power connected, use voltmeter black lead to the white wires connection - red lead to each of the fuses in turn they are the feeds to your 12v acc.

im sure your battery 6-18 is toast or will be soon. 5 years is about all you get. the thing in question is a circuit breaker(auto reset)

needs to be higher than the vertical dimension of the bell housing so it can come out from under the truck

first. with engine running the house battery is charged by the alternator. next with engine off and shore power plugged into receptical battery is charged by the converter. one or the other not both at the same time. when not using shore power the cord is simply stored in it cubby plugged into nothing and the coach will run off the battery

i think a mirror and a 1/4" nut driver works. i have mine apart now, and my filter is mounted externally as is my fuel pump. looking next to the switch box, straight down is where the clamp should be

yours has flair fittings and the new one has tube o ring -not combatable

i see your shocks aren't mounted. they might limit the axle drop. my sway bar end links are like linda says

i would compare noise levels also

no difference between man and auto. turbo maybe different pressure.

spray with soapy water. whatever stays isn't brake fluid

i added a 12v heater to my dometic, added a power wire thats hot only while running so i can help keep the fridge cool on the road, but it can't kill the battery when parked

i would put the springs on the dually axle and shove the whole thing under there. mount the front of the springs, then lift the axle up tp connect the rear hangers.