neilp

I'm interested as I am considering adding some. Please post some pics and let us know where you choose to locate them.

I found the part I needed for my Dometic awning on ebay. The awning likely has a label somewhere with the model number. Mine is on the roller when the awning is extended fully. Google for the parts list / diagram and identify the part number and proper description of that part. Then google the part number and/or description. I'd be surprised if you don't find that they are available somewhere. Good luck!

Looks like all is back! Thank you!

I suggest a google search for the parts manual for your year and model. Winnebago used to have them on there site but I heard that they are not there anylonger. I have the pdf of the manual for my 1993 Itasca Spirit (the same as the Winnebago version), let me know if you want a copy.

I think he's talking about one of these: https://rmcengine.com/r800-belt-resurfacer.html

As the winters are typically mild here in Central Texas to winterize I: - drain the water lines and freshwater tank using the drain valves and then close the valves - blow out the water lines with compressed air (at low pressure) with the taps and shower valves all open - add the pink anti-freeze stuff to each sink and the shower to protect the traps from freezing This has worked well and I had no problems even after the monster winter storm in March this year. A week of sub-zero temps and 6" of snow is beyond unusual here, and I was worried that my winterizing might be insufficient. No problems at all fortunately!

I recently installed LED rear lights although I used the Bargman LED replacements which kept things a simple bolt in upgrade! One thing to keep in mind is that LEDs are polarized unlike incandescent bulbs. That is, with a regular bulb you can stick either the +ve or -ve on either side of the bulb and it will light up. Not so with LEDs if you reverse the polarity you will get nothing. So you may need to swap some wires over to get things working correctly. I discovered on my Toymo that most of the running lights are reverse wired from the factory, which was not an issue until I went to swap to LED bulbs and most did not work. Fixing that is still on the to-do list! Good luck!

Just thought I'd follow up with the outcome in case anyone was interested. I posted on some FB Toymo groups but with no interest after a couple of days I listed on craigslist, FB and Nextdoor and got a flood of response. I maybe should have asked a little more but I wanted it gone as it's bulk trash pickup here next week and if I couldn't sell it the AC was going! I got the $100 I asked for it. Sold and gone within 3 hours of listing! So I guess these old ACs do still have a little value!

My new AC is being installed tomorrow. If anyone is interested in the old unit please let me know. Fully operational and both the shroud and internal unit are in good condition although showing their age (yellowing). I'm located in Austin TX, and cannot ship this!!

My '93 Itasca Spirit (same as Warrior) has the spongy floor issue. If I look underneath it is in great condition but still feels kinda soggy when you walk near the stove / bathroom door area (rear bath floor plan). I've thought about adding some stiffening underneath between the frame rails. Maybe some angle iron that is notched to sit on top of the frame on each side. One day I'll find the time to give it a try!

I used the Lifeproof stuff from HD. It was easy enough to install, the worst of the job was removing he old carpet. The other challenge, that I have yet to fully conquer, is the metal entry step which has resisted my attempts to drill into it so that I can secure the right angle edge trim that I have there. It has stood up to usage well enough, although it has got some scuff marks from moving plastic storage tubs around. It's OK for the camper but I would not use it in my home due to the way the finish is easily marred.

I have also read about 12v fans failing due to poorly regulated voltage. I think this is when people are connected to shore power and have an old power converter. I recently replaced my converter with a modern unit. I think this removes a potential fire hazard, increases the life of the coach battery (it manages battery condition far better than the original), and also provides better regulated 12v to appliances,. Replacing my original 12v fan is on the list of upgrades I'd like to do at some point, although there are several projects ahead of it. When I get to that point I won't have to worry about the 12v supply being out of spec. In my experience repairing electronics that are a few years old, it is not unusual for some components to be way out of spec after a few years usage. So these old units are likely all over the place. Mine measured closer to 13v than 12v although I never looked that closely.

I have decided to upgrade my AC, and will be removing my working original unit. Does anyone see any value in this? It will be complete with the inside panel and is in good working order. I am in central Texas, Austin area and it would be great to get a few $$ towards the next project! Appreciate thoughts an opinions on any value and where to sell it! Neil

Thanks for the replies - I am not too concerned about the electrical side of things, I think that should be easy enough. I am more worried about getting the unit off the top of the camper without damaging the roof - I'd rather not have to stand on too much it as it likely does not have the strength it once did ... I don't have access to a hoist or anything that could help so it's going to be my son and me up ladders! I think a start cap is worth the $30 investment - I'd rather fit one and not need it than have to install one later with the unit on the roof. It should reduce the initial load considerably as the plan is to use a small inverter generator in the long term. I have the original Kohler now and while it runs it's not economical and it's noisy. I am tempted to add a soft start kit too, but they are a bit pricey for what they are. I can't help thinking that I could make one with a couple of relays and a simple timer circuit - but my electronics classes are a pretty dim memory and I'd hate to screwup my new AC unit! For those not familiar with them a soft start kit delays the fan kicking on for a few seconds after the compressor. This reduces the initial load.

I've just ordered a replacement AC unit for the camper area. The original 7100 btu Coleman still works but struggles a little to keep up in the Texas heat when it's 95F+. Also I want to reduce the weight on the roof as the original unit weighs over 100lbs. I ordered an Advent ACM135 (it is 13500btu which is a bit much perhaps) but it only weighs 68lbs and draws about the same as the Coleman Power Saver units. I think I will install a start cap and maybe a soft start while I have the opportunity as I may want to run on a generator at some point in the future - although I mostly camp in state parks at the moment. I'd like to hear some advice as to how best to remove the old unit from on top of the camper. I'd like to keep it in one piece in the hope of reselling it for a few $$ if possible. I'd also like to minimize the stress on the roof as it's almost 30 years old! TIA

I mounted two PC cooling fans on to the inside of the lower fridge access panel. Easier than climbing on the roof! They push air up through the vent and work well to help keep things cooling. I put a switch inside the cabinet adjacent to the vent - there's also a 12v supply there for the 12v outlet so I tapped into that for the fans.

I should add that I looked carefully at the springs but they appear to have retained a decent amount of arch. I figured replacing the air bags and shocks was a good first step. I'm pleased with the results and don't plan to replace the springs any time soon!

My camper had the original airbags. They kinda worked when I got it but failed entirely within a year. The camper had not been used consistently so I suspect, as Linda noted, lack of air in them caused extra wear. I removed the original Firestone / 3T system. The bags were dry rotted in places and creased from sitting for long periods with no air. I dithered for some time undecided on the best replacement option. In the end I chose the Air Lift 88113 kit. This has the added "jounce bumper" inside the airbag which prevents air bag damage when deflated and may help to some extent with ride quality (by using lower air pressure while driving but retaining some added support). The install was a pain but I'm pleased with the results. I also replaced the shocks while I was there. My camper already had some beefy aftermarket shocks but they looked very old so while I was there it seemed like a good idea. I used KYB shocks. I'm happy with the results. The ride height is about 2" higher, the adjustability of the air bags is nice, and can be used to assist with levelling. The ride quality has remained about the same - likely as the old shocks were still functioning OK - the rears especially were still good, the fronts a little tired. I did also add some rollers to my tow hitch to prevent damage from grounding. I made my own from Home Depot casters and U bolts as the kits for this purpose are $$. My solution works well enough and cost less than $20.

I've seen fittings designed to attach to the exhaust of the honda inverters on ebay. I'm thinking they may fit other brands?

I'm thinking about ditching the gas tank and using the existing fuel line for the old generator to supply fuel. But may have an issue if the carb float cannot hold the pressure.

Thanks for sharing the pics. Looks great!

Yes, I've been thinking about this for some time and considered those issues. The exhaust would be routed to exit the same location as the current generator. Cooling might be interesting but if the plastic is removed I'm guessing that should assist. Point taken regarding noise, so I would line the space first with some heatproof noise insulation. Do you have any pics that you could share?

I'd be very interested to learn more about this as I am thinking about doing the same thing, using a small inverter generator - 2000w or thereabouts. I was thinking of removing the plastic panels and gas tank from the generator and then squeezing it into the current generator space - likely have to remove the current electrical cord that is sorted there. I know it would mean fabricating exhaust and fan cooling solutions but seems do-able!

I'm confused about the role of a switch here. I carry a short jumper cable to allow me to connect both batteries together at the isolator, if needed. This is useful in two ways: - allows me to jump the engine from the coach battery if the cab battery is flat. - allows me to charge the cab battery while plugged in to shore power. Are suggesting a switch to do the same thing? The only problem I see is that you would either need some heavy duty cables or the added complication of a relay. While I like the idea I'm not sure it offers anything that my jumper cable solution does not offer. Also, I don't see how this would reduce the strain on the alternator?

I replaced the incandescent OEM Bargman set up with their LED version. It was an easy bolt in solution to upgrading the rear lights, I'm happy with the results. I also pondered the cheaper options that would requires some fabrication or alterations to install. In the end I decided it was worth the extra $$ to have a bolt-on solution. I still have the old incandescent set up if any one wants them for the postage!