Urgent Help Required: Engine Overheating

[jjrbus]

The whole debate got to be too much for me. After a while the only article that rang a bell with me was to use the coolant that came with the vehicle. Jim

[sherrie]

Happy new year to everyone here at the forum!

I am on my way back home to Vancouver and now I am in Oregon. No problem so far after driven to San Quintin in Baja California and back. Yes I think temperature going up during climbing is not something normal too, and the mechanic did suggest that my three row radiator is not having the cooling effect enough and suggested I should changed it into an aluminum one. What do you think?

Hi, centraman, this is Sherrie in Las Vegas. I purchased a 90 Toy Warrior in June 2015. I had a overheating problem, now fixed. Posted on this site the whole ordeal. I installed the brass CSF 3 row. I think this is the best option and would not replace it - unless you know the radiator is not functioning. I had a lot of trouble using mechanics that did not understand the unique issues of a Toyota Motorhome vs Toyota Truck. I would recommend trying to find a mechanic on the west coast that understands the Toyota Motorhome and speak/visit them. I received a lot of wrong information from mechanics here, even the dealership - because they did not understand the unique issues of a Toyota Motorhome. By the way if you locate one - let me know.

[linda s]

Hi, centraman, this is Sherrie in Las Vegas. I purchased a 90 Toy Warrior in June 2015. I had a overheating problem, now fixed. Posted on this site the whole ordeal. I installed the brass CSF 3 row. I think this is the best option and would not replace it - unless you know the radiator is not functioning. I had a lot of trouble using mechanics that did not understand the unique issues of a Toyota Motorhome vs Toyota Truck. I would recommend trying to find a mechanic on the west coast that understands the Toyota Motorhome and speak/visit them. I received a lot of wrong information from mechanics here, even the dealership - because they did not understand the unique issues of a Toyota Motorhome. By the way if you locate one - let me know.

The pictures you posted of the coolant you removed from your truck convinced me that your later problems were because your mechanics didn't realize the 2 different coolants were not compatible at all. Even after running through your engine they stayed completely separate. So whatever people decide to use they need to flush thoroughly before changing coolants to a different type

Linda S

[zero]

Then decided that most autos today have aluminum engine parts and radiators so any coolant should be good and went with Peak. My opinion is as long as I change it to refresh corrosion resistance, I'm good to go.

Jim SW FL

I agree with you. WAY too much hype and BS out there about different color coolants. Regardless if red., pink, green, etc. the are all they same coolant base. The color differences sometimes mean different corrosion additives and sometimes mean nothing. If two colors get dumped in, and the colors do not mix - it's likely the corrosion protection won't last near as long as intended. Other then that - it is of little meaning. In regard to the "long life" pink stuff like Toyota sells - it's rated for around 5 years or 50K miles in an older vehicle. Not a huge difference from the old standard green (or Toyota red) stuff. Many HD diesel makers will not allow use of the "long life" coolant with the so-called "organics." It has been claimed that in HD engines, that coolant promotes premature seal wear. Who the heck knows? I use test strips on my el-cheapo coolant. I never change it. Just refresh the additive package if a test shows the coolant is getting acidic.

[5Toyota]

I have had a Toyota since 1983 a 77 wagon 3 Toyota trucks 2 motor homes never used anything but green preston e or peak. but I drain and replace at about 3 years. I have never had corrosion problems.and had wagon 15 years one truck 12 . have seen heads datson and Toyota eaten up not on my autos but in shops. I would say caused by never changing antifreeze. I will say I have no exp. with late model Toyotas.

[jjrbus]

I agree with you. WAY too much hype and BS out there about different color coolants. Regardless if red., pink, green, etc. the are all they same coolant base. The color differences sometimes mean different corrosion additives and sometimes mean nothing. If two colors get dumped in, and the colors do not mix - it's likely the corrosion protection won't last near as long as intended. Other then that - it is of little meaning. In regard to the "long life" pink stuff like Toyota sells - it's rated for around 5 years or 50K miles in an older vehicle. Not a huge difference from the old standard green (or Toyota red) stuff. Many HD diesel makers will not allow use of the "long life" coolant with the so-called "organics." It has been claimed that in HD engines, that coolant promotes premature seal wear. Who the heck knows? I use test strips on my el-cheapo coolant. I never change it. Just refresh the additive package if a test shows the coolant is getting acidic.

Lots of engines out there that never have oil or coolant changes! Locomotives are one that I know of. Jim

[Maineah]

Locomotives use water no antifreeze cools better. That is one reason they leave them running then some bright person decided it would be a lot cheaper to run a small diesel to heat the water in the big diesel. We did chemical analysis of the oil in our 2,200 HP generator to see how the oil was doing it only was changed if necessary 150 gallons of lube oil changed just because would become expensive real fast.

[jjrbus]

Interesting, water cools better than coolant! Then why do those in warmer climates use coolant?

[zero]

My Ford pickup holds 8 gallons of coolant. No way am I going to change it going by time or miles. Maybe a little engine like a Toyota if did not have test strips. But I do. Costs around a buck to test the coolant. Cheap investment. Just checked my Ford this spring. Coolant was 8 years old and showed a need of one bottle of SCA treatment for $8. A lot cheaper, easier, and more specific then just draining and changing.

[WME]

Folks in warm places use antifreeze for its corrosion reducing abilities AND the fact that it raises the boiling point.

[zero]

I understand the need for anti-corrosion additives. Not the part about raising the boiling point. In a car built on the 1920s with a non-pressurized radiator - yes. In today's cars and trucks?? A cooling system with pure water and a 12 PSIG cap has a boiling point around 250 degrees F. If it has 50/50 mix of anti-freeze it is 260 degrees F. Not a substantial difference.

[Back East Don]

My initial reason for bringing up the subject of antifreeze was due to the discussion of copper/brass vs aluminum. I've read various debates regarding both. In an old vehicle the question is what formulation do you consider when changing the metal and what will protect it best? Also what affect do these formulations have on the new aluminum radiator? While this doesn't answer that question, here is an interesting article on antifreeze.

Next spring I'll likely address this issue first hand. I don't initially see a downside to changing formulation to the silicate free Red but have not found anything definitive on if there is a reaction with the old corrosion inhibitors with the new formulations.

[a2ndopinion]

jd, mixing different coolant types CAN cause the coolant to coagulate and plug the system - I've seen it more than once.

Also, most people seem to think that coolant makes their engine run cooler. Very wrong! Coolant does not transfer heat near as well as straight water. What coolant does is raise the boiling point, as does a pressurized cooling system. Most coolant/antifreezes also have anti-corrosive additives and lubricants for the water pump.

I usually only run a 25% coolant mix, mainly for the additives, and so my system doesn't freeze here in our rather mild Oregon winters - never colder than 20 degrees F.