Ctgriffi Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I'm pretty new to the world of propane, and I could use a little advice with the following: We're getting ready to head out of town on a 3-day weekend trip, and I noticed that my levels panel showed that propane was getting low. Stopped at a local propane dealer this morning and, after convincing them to come out of the building into the pouring rain, they gave me a fill-up. Apparently, they could only add 3.3 gallons, which cost me just $6.26. Afterwards, I took a look at the gauge on the (very old) tank and snapped the photo below. The red indicator is at about 2 o'clock. Should I be concerned that only 3.3 gallons was needed? Is the tank reasonably full? Appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Hard to read that thing. You have to remember max fill is only 80% so it does look like it's about 75% and I would consider that full. Way too much rust going on there. It might be time for an upgrade. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 I don't like seeing all that rust either, Linda. What are my options? What's the cost of a replacement tank and is the job doable for a serious DIY'er with a lot of tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I don't have a Winnie but I think your propane tank is completely enclosed and the only way to get to it is to tear out the closet floor. Get underneath and take some pics and maybe someone else can chime in. Don't even know what your propane tank really looks like Mine is completely underneath and Yes I could replace mine if I had to. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 I think it's actually mounted to the frame, just behind the cab on driver's side. According to a little research (and what I remember from glancing at it a few times), I've got an ASME tank similar to this one (top of the page). Shouldn't be too difficult to remove and inspect at some point. Those tanks are $400+ though, which I wouldn't be able to swing in the immediate future. Hence, my question about 'options'... conversions, retrofits, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 On a related note, I like the idea of using a kit like this to allow for hook-up to an external DOT tank, if/when needed. I guess then the issue becomes... how do you safely (and legally) carry a standard 20lb DOT cylinder with you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I met some people just within the last couple weeks who have theirs strapped on top of the back bumper with some ratchet straps Then route the line into the camper for a portable 2-burner stove. I think realistically you could carry it inside, or somehow secure it outside, and then it would be there if you needed it. Are you expecting to not use your current tank till you can replace it, or just wanting to have more fuel? My tank is only a 5 gallon tank. I use it all day to power my fridge, cook twice a day, and run the heater for a little some mornings, and mine is "plenty". I probably spend more time out in the middle of nowhere for days at a time than most, and usually by the time I'm running low on propane, it's time to make a trip into town anyways. But your camper might have a bigger fridge, hot water heater etc and so it might use more gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I'm pretty new to the world of propane, and I could use a little advice with the following: We're getting ready to head out of town on a 3-day weekend trip, and I noticed that my levels panel showed that propane was getting low. Stopped at a local propane dealer this morning and, after convincing them to come out of the building into the pouring rain, they gave me a fill-up. Apparently, they could only add 3.3 gallons, which cost me just $6.26. Nobody is supposed to fill by the gauge reading. Your tank has a bleeder-valve and that is what is used by the propane filler to determine when "full." And yes - when properly filled the tank will be at appox. 80%, not 100%. That depends on temps. Also note that some gauges on RVs are designed to read "full" when at 80% The LP tank used in Winnebabo Micro-Warrior Toyotas and Lesharos is what's called a "30 lb." tank. A brand new tank shipped to your door cost less then $200, NOT $400. Winnebago used a 7.1 gallon tank with a 30 lb. "water capacity" that was properly filled with propane @ 25-27 lbs. in normal camping temps. I.e., 6 -7 gallons for a proper fill. If you fill a tank for expected 50-70 degree F temps and it then goes to 120 F - there is little danger. If too full, the pressure-relief valve pops off and lets a little gas out. No big deal unless you next to it with a lit cigarette. Not entirely safe and better just to fill not-so-much. OEM Winny "30 lb." horizontal tank measures 23" long and the tank itself is 9 1/2" diameter. But it has 1 1/2" legs on it so total height is 11" If your's is not deeply pitted from road-salt and just has surface rust - nothing wrong with just wire-brushing it and spraying a coat of rust-stabliizer on it. Note that changing a tank can sometimes be very difficult. If really rusty, that usually means the bolts that hold the tank to the frame are also very rusty. If it wasn't a propane tank - the bolts could just be heated or cut off with a torch. Not something you'd want to do with a tank with propane in it though. I just removed one from a Winnebago that is not very rusty at all but still had a miserable time getting the bolts out. I used a torch but stayed away from the tank and cut part of the frame out. RV is getting scrapped anyway. If you ever want to know the true safe-fill capacity of any LP tank - you read the numbers including the "WC" and "Tare" stamped on it. With propane these is lots of bad info around. E.g. some so-called "20 lb." tanks actually hold 24 lbs. and are made to be safely filled with 20 lbs. of propane. Yet many places cheat and call them "full" at 18 lbs. You need to read the stamped numbers ON the tank to know for sure - or use the bleeder valve if it has one. The used tank in the photos is from an 87 Winnebago Phasar - same size tank as used in the Winnebago Toyota Micro-Warrior. This tank just has surface rust and will be fine with some wire-brushing and some rust-stabilizer. The square tag has all the WC and TARE numbers stamped on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Well the Winnie tank is an ASME tank and the ones for sale you posted are DOT tanks. That accounts for the price difference. Might be pretty hard to mount the DOT tank into an area where there was an ASME tank and still have room to fill it. I would do it in a minute if I could figure out anyway to mount it on my Nissan Sunrader. Only way would be to cut out some of the fiberglass body. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Well the Winnie tank is an ASME tank and the ones for sale you posted are DOT tanks... Yeah, I noticed that too. Those DOT tanks look like a good deal, but the difficulty with mounting one in the provided space might preclude it. (Also, I see the Manchester tank on eBay has a sticker that states, "Fill in the vertical position only!") Jdemaris: You mentioned cleaning up the tank and hitting it with a rust stabilizer. What kind of product were you thinking of? Also, in your opinion, would it be dangerous to work with a sawzall (or grinder with cutting disc) near an empty propane tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Goggle POR-15 for stop rust products. An empty Propane tank is just as dangerous as a full one. You need to go to a commercial propane store and see if they can purge your tank. A purged tank is safe even around open flame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Yeah, I noticed that too. Those DOT tanks look like a good deal, but the difficulty with mounting one in the provided space might preclude it. (Also, I see the Manchester tank on eBay has a sticker that states, "Fill in the vertical position only!") Jdemaris: You mentioned cleaning up the tank and hitting it with a rust stabilizer. What kind of product were you thinking of? Also, in your opinion, would it be dangerous to work with a sawzall (or grinder with cutting disc) near an empty propane tank? There are DOT horizontal tanks that get filled while horizontal. DOT tanks usually lack the liquid- bleed screw and also lack the separate fill port so are not as convenient as the ASME tanks. There are ASME 30 lb. horizontal tanks around for $280-$300. 30 lb. tanks also vary in sizes, regardless if DOT or ASME. That's why I gave the Winnebago measurements in my post (23" long X 11" high incuding mounting legs). In regard to making sparks near LP tanks. It doesn't worry me if I don't smell gas. It's getting near a gas-filled tank with a cutting or heating torch that gets me nervous. If a tank had a tiny leak so small you can not smell it - and you touched that spot with an open flame - it would just light and burn with a small flame - not "blow up." What WOULD make me nervous is working near a freshly filled tank on a hot day that might shoot gas out the safety relief valve. When it comes to using some sort of rust -protector or neutralizer or "converter?" I've used Zero-Rust and POR-15 for years. I've also used the old stand-by of Rustoleum "Rusty Metal Primer." From what I've seen over the years - the Rustoleum seems to work just as well as the fancier brands. Only draw-back is the "Rusty Metal Primer" takes about 2 days to dry. Nice thing about the Rustoleum is it's fairly cheap and available at Home Depot or Walmart in small quantities. There ares so many different brands of rust-converters on the market now - I have no idea if any of them are actually the "best." I just coated some parts with a newer type from Loctite. I won't be able to tell if it's any good until a few years go by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Frankly I don't think I would worry about the rust they are pretty thick, spray it with Fluid Film. They all have some type of bleeder or they would not fill. Some horizontal tanks have a special fitting that requires an adaptor for the fill port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 JD if you know anywhere to buy a 30lb ASME tank for that price I sure would like to know. I can't find any under $500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 http://www.amazon.com/Flame-King-YSN293-Horizontal-29-3-Gallon/dp/B00I8IY6FQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I've gotten so much mileage out of my Amazon Prime subscription. Beside the two day ship on many items, there is little you can't find if you know what you want. I'm on phase two and just today I got a new fridge vent and base, Liquid Roof & primer, lap seal, self etching grey primer and some wire brush cups for the right angle grinder. All with free two day shipping. Best part is good pricing if you shop carefully and know what you are buying. When I need something, I check Amazon first then the rest of the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 JD if you know anywhere to buy a 30lb ASME tank for that price I sure would like to know. I can't find any under $500 Flame King YSN293 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Flame King YSN29330 gallons not pounds. A 30 pound tank is only about 7 gallons. No way a 30 gallon tank would fit anywhere on my Sunrader and that tank weighs more empty than mine does full. that is also a closeout. No ASME tanks on the Flame King website anymore Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgibson4 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 And surprisingly, the 30 pound tanks that I have found are much more expensive than the 30 gallon tank cited! Go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 30 gallons not pounds. A 30 pound tank is only about 7 gallons. No way a 30 gallon tank would fit anywhere on my Sunrader and that tank weighs more empty than mine does full. that is also a closeout. No ASME tanks on the Flame King website anymore Linda S Yes, I didn't even look closely at the ad. Just saw the "29" figure on top. I didn't even know there WAS such a thing as a "29 gallon" tank. ASME tanks that I've seen or used come in 120, 330 500, and 1000 gallon versions. Seems there are variations for RVs. I've got an ASME "120 gallon" tank here. Same tank is also sold as a "DOT 420 pounder." Same tank, dual labels. If anyone wants an RV ASME 6.8 gallon (30 lb.) horizontal ASME tank for a Winnebago - they can buy the one I have for $150 plus shipping. "DOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Original poster has a Winnie and certainly needs one. Sounds like a good deal to me. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 If I needed a brand-new tank for my Toyota - I assume something like PPL sells would work. And maybe not. OEM Winnebago Micro-Warrior tank is 23" long by 9 1/2" deep by 11" high. PPL sells a 23" long by 10" tank for $370 (5.8 gallon). Also a 32" X 10" for $370 sold as a 7.9 gallon tank. They are top-mount tanks though. I know my tank in my Minicruiser had the mounts on the bottom. I also do not know if the gallon figures are for "fill value" or for total WC (water-capacity). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Unfortunately the 6814 tank is a van style meaning the fill and gauge point down at a 45 degree angle. To work in a Sunrader I would need a 6815 with horizontal fill and everywhere that is special order only. Big bucks. The 5 gallon one is van style too. The pictures they show do not represent that actual tank they are selling. Not good. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 same way on common BBQ type tanks 20 pound 5 gallon size around 30 dollors a one gallon or a 2 and half 50 or more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 The gauge is nothing more than a float pretty much the same ideal as a gas tank they are a mechanical device and do things such as stick or the float it's self goes bad. It is reading the liquid propane in the tank. I do not believe I would replace a tank because it looks rusty I have filled dozens of saddle propane tanks and every one looked exactly the same including mine, rusty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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