3VZE Valve Clearance Adjustment

[jjrbus]

19 hours ago, DanAatTheCape said:

curious, why do you want to modify the tool?

 

Trying to get the shim removal tool to stay on the bucket was next to impossible,  25, 30 attempts on each shim. Finally get the shim held down, pull the shim and if it touched the tool, the tool would pop out or might pop out without being touched!  Watching people on videos putting tool in and pulling shim out with no issues, then reading about how the tools were big time savers, or people were pulling the cams to do the job as it was easier.  Either I was doing something very wrong or there was something wrong with the tool.. 

Grinding the tool down did 2 things, it thinned the tool, then I had to clean up the edge of the tool that sits on the bucket with a file,  So now I am curious if pricier tools are thinner or if sharpening the edge that did the trick. 

 

[Maineah]

3 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Trying to get the shim removal tool to stay on the bucket was next to impossible,  25, 30 attempts on each shim. Finally get the shim held down, pull the shim and if it touched the tool, the tool would pop out or might pop out without being touched!  Watching people on videos putting tool in and pulling shim out with no issues, then reading about how the tools were big time savers, or people were pulling the cams to do the job as it was easier.  Either I was doing something very wrong or there was something wrong with the tool.. 

Grinding the tool down did 2 things, it thinned the tool, then I had to clean up the edge of the tool that sits on the bucket with a file,  So now I am curious if pricier tools are thinner or if sharpening the edge that did the trick. 

 

I don't know what to tell you I never had issues with mine mind you this was many years ago maybe they were better quality. Removing the cams is one method but it's a lot more labor intensive there are some that it is the only method like an "E" type Jag because the shims were under the buckets. I'll also add if you are not careful you run the risk of possibly breaking the cams because some valves will be against spring tension and if you wrench down on the cam caps unevenly it will put undo tension on the cams. 

Edited June 11, 2018 by Maineah

[DanAatTheCape]

I think you might be overthinking this thing.  I found that compressing the lifter (centered on shim) THEN placing the little tool on the edge worked quite well.

For the ones where the curved tool could not be used due to stuff in the way (I only did exhaust , my intake were good, I found about 1/2 had access issues).  When I could not use the tool, I used a small bent screwdriver - which required a copy of iterations to get the lifter all the way compressed - I would use the smaller end of the tool to hold the whole thing down, then I could re-position the screwdriver to get enough action to compress all the way.

[jjrbus]

2 hours ago, Maineah said:

I don't know what to tell you I never had issues with mine mind you this was many years ago maybe they were better quality. Removing the cams is one method but it's a lot more labor intensive there are some that it is the only method like an "E" type Jag because the shims were under the buckets. I'll also add if you are not careful you run the risk of possibly breaking the cams because some valves will be against spring tension and if you wrench down on the cam caps unevenly it will put undo tension on the cams. 

You likely did not buy cheap Ebay tools, may be the reason you had no issues.  When I Google  valve adjustment 3VZE there are quite a few that insist it is easier to remove the cams.  I strongly suspect it is the cheap poorly formed tools that is the issue.  I have asked and cannot find anyone in this area to compare tools. 

 

[Ctgriffi]

For what it's worth... I had similar difficulties with the tool I used, and I completely understand why the width matters: if the hold-down tool is any wider than the edge of the bucket, it will mostly likely pop out of place when you try to pull the shim because the shim will bump against it, dislodge it, and cause everything to blow up in your face, over and over and over. It simply is quite difficult to do this task with the cams in place—I think it will always be hard, no matter the tools. But, if I ever have to do it again, I will try the grinding down, squaring up approach that you mentioned, jjrbus. Every little bit helps!

The following sounds like a joke, but it is not: you almost need the hands of a brain surgeon to do this job in a "reasonable" amount of time (whatever that is).

 

 

Edited June 11, 2018 by Ctgriffi

[DanAatTheCape]

I bought a Schley 88250 --  many available - google if interested.

[jjrbus]

18 hours ago, Ctgriffi said:

For what it's worth... I had similar difficulties with the tool I used, and I completely understand why the width matters: if the hold-down tool is any wider than the edge of the bucket, it will mostly likely pop out of place when you try to pull the shim because the shim will bump against it, dislodge it, and cause everything to blow up in your face, over and over and over. It simply is quite difficult to do this task with the cams in place—I think it will always be hard, no matter the tools. But, if I ever have to do it again, I will try the grinding down, squaring up approach that you mentioned, jjrbus. Every little bit helps!

The following sounds like a joke, but it is not: you almost need the hands of a brain surgeon to do this job in a "reasonable" amount of time (whatever that is).

 

 

Thanks for the response.  After grinding the tool down I went from total frustration to poping them out on the first or second try, night and day.  In the video in this post it is shown putting the tool on the left hand side or cove side of the bucket,  I could still not do that after grinding the tool.

[DanAatTheCape]

On 6/11/2018 at 6:54 AM, jjrbus said:

Grinding the tool down did 2 things, it thinned the tool, then I had to clean up the edge of the tool that sits on the bucket with a file,  So now I am curious if pricier tools are thinner or if sharpening the edge that did the trick. 

 

I measured the thickness for your perusal using my Harbor Freight plastic measuring device.  I also included a picture of the bent screwdriver I used on the exhaust valves I could not access with the 88250 tool. When I used that tool, it was a 5 step procedure- 1) use screwdriver to compress lifter (would not compress all the way);  2) use little end of 88251 to hold lifter while I re-positioned screwdriver; 3) used little screwdriver to compress the lifter the rest of the way necessary; 4) used large end of 88251 - placing it on edge of lifter (on the rim of the cup);  5) Then I could use a magnet and a pointed tool to pop out the shim.

Edited June 12, 2018 by DanAatTheCape

[jjrbus]

Thanks Dan appreciated,   but still leaves me wondering what is going on.   My tool measured where I did not grind it down is the same thickness.  I bought the Power Built brand for under $30. 

 

 

[DanAatTheCape]

2 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Thanks Dan appreciated,   but still leaves me wondering what is going on.   My tool measured where I did not grind it down is the same thickness.  I bought the Power Built brand for under $30. 

 

 

I am guessing you are having trouble of the tool slipping off the rim of the cup?  

It is hard to see while using the tool.  Is the surface of the tool - the side that is placed on the rim of the cup - rounded off?   If so,  maybe grinding it down flat might help?  Looks like the same thickness as mine. If you look back thru my link in this thread to my shim job, I have dimensions of the 2 "feet" on the tool for comparison.

Edited June 13, 2018 by DanAatTheCape

[jjrbus]

31 minutes ago, DanAatTheCape said:

I am guessing you are having trouble of the tool slipping off the rim of the cup?  

It is hard to see while using the tool.  Is the surface of the tool - the side that is placed on the rim of the cup - rounded off?   If so,  maybe grinding it down flat might help?  Looks like the same thickness as mine. If you look back thru my link in this thread to my shim job, I have dimensions of the 2 "feet" on the tool for comparison.

It will not make any difference for me as I highly doubt I will ever do this again, would be nice to be able to help someone else out.  So if someone is reading this thread and getting frustrated with the shim tool, try filing the end flat or grinding down the thickness. 

[Ctgriffi]

You get it all back together okay, jjrbus? How's she idling and running now?

[jjrbus]

Thanks for asking.  There was that moment in the cab when I hesitant about turning the key.  It fired right up and runs very well.  I was surprised at how well it ran and seemed to have more power.   I asked about it and then did a Google, it seems that adjusting valves will restore power that has been lost as the valves go out of adjustment.

I have not taken a trip in it yet, just ran it up and down the interstate a few miles.    I do not keep tract of my mpg, so cannot check but I would not be surprised if it goes up a bit.

This is one job I do not want to do again.    

[Maineah]

With an engine with known valve clearance issues a job well done!

[thewanderlustking]

On 3/2/2017 at 12:00 PM, Ctgriffi said:

driver's side view

 

 

 

Haha THANK YOU for this little gem of a picture!  I have been staring at the actual factory manuals, Alldata, and googling stuff for hours now trying to figure out where the transmission dipstick for my 4runner is supposed to go.  I was actually going to pop up on here and ask.  But finally the right google fu brough me here anyways! 

[Andrewups]

Great info, I know now what I'm doing this winter. Thanks.

[thewanderlustking]

This popped back in my lists to respond to and I wanted to add a caution to the "removing the camshaft" method mentioned.  Ignoring the other extra effort doing that causes, it puts our wonderfull Japanese pot metal at risk...  One of the ONLY complaints I have about Toyotas is the aluminum they used is either crap to start with, or very well fatigued by now.

 

I have been wrenching for years and can't remember the last time I personally stripped out engine or transmission bolts, before this 4Runner.  I have easily made up a decade of really good luck on this thing.  Every job done on it with bolts going into aluminum bits, something seems to strip out...    

 

I had to do a valve cover gasket on mine as oil was pouring out of the back cam plug.  The last moron in had stripped both the rear cam caps bolts.  And just left them in there like that lol.  

 

Anyways I would do whatever possible to take less risk, and not pull the camshafts haha!   

[Desert Surf]

Does anyone have a indy mechanic that will tackle this job? I'm just wondering if I should look for one or just have the local dealer do it. They want approximately $600 plus parts. I just bought this rig with unknown maintenance history and I'm assuming everything needs to be done.

 

Neil

[Odyssey 4x4]

On 10/1/2024 at 1:26 PM, Desert Surf said:

Does anyone have a indy mechanic that will tackle this job? I'm just wondering if I should look for one or just have the local dealer do it. They want approximately $600 plus parts. I just bought this rig with unknown maintenance history and I'm assuming everything needs to be done.

 

Neil

 

I'm going to wake this thread back up as I may be about to perform this job on my 89. I am chasing a slight misfire and occasional hot start issue after interstate cruising. The truck is at 130k miles and I do not know the maintenance history on it. 

 

Just for the heck of it I called a few shops including my local toyota dealer and it seems that nobody wants to touch the 3.0. One guy said "I cant get parts for the job." I told him that shims were readily available from Toyota and online, but it was evident that he did not want to do it. My toyota dealer said they would normally still work on this engine, but the RV is too big for their shop and they won't be able to squeeze around it with other rigs while performing the job.

 

I have been chasing this issue since I bought the truck and still haven't figured it out yet. It will run super rough and idle low occasionally after getting fuel. If I give it some throttle though it seems to clear up, not sure if that means it isnt the valves? I've changed all kinds of parts trying to figure this heat soak issue out. 

 

I am likely going to be pulling the driver side valve cover soon and checking clearances. I sure wish I would have done it when I had the intake off doing injectors! 

[WME]

Done a compression check or a leak down???

[Odyssey 4x4]

When I had a couple injectors replaced by a shop while on the road in North Carolina last year he claimed they did a compression test and the numbers were good. I'm not super confident in his honesty. 

 

Perhaps I’ll try a compression / leak down to get my own numbers. I’m just trying to avoid pulling cylinder 5 plug as last time I did the threads did not feel happy. I think a previous owner partially tore up the threads some time in the past. 

Edited July 23, 2025 by Odyssey 4x4

[Andrewups]

I did valves job on mine by myself and isn't so hard, and I'm not a mechanic, and don't have a big nice shop, I did it outside, on my driveway. Obviously it's taking time, I waited 2 weeks for shims delivery too. With the right tools and patience you will be ok. For the start when hot, I had the same issue. The problem it's the starter contacts. It's a little challenging to unhook the starter but it did again on my driveway. I kept the original starter and just replaced the contacts (-/+ 10$).

[Odyssey 4x4]

43 minutes ago, Andrewups said:

I did valves job on mine by myself and isn't so hard, and I'm not a mechanic, and don't have a big nice shop, I did it outside, on my driveway. Obviously it's taking time, I waited 2 weeks for shims delivery too. With the right tools and patience you will be ok. For the start when hot, I had the same issue. The problem it's the starter contacts. It's a little challenging to unhook the starter but it did again on my driveway. I kept the original starter and just replaced the contacts (-/+ 10$).

 

there's no issue with the starter, it turns over and cranks fine. It's one it starts it will have a heavy miss and low idle. The funny thing is that once I gave it a few revs with the throttle and got rolling it cleared out and goes mostly back to normal. It seems like an obvious heat soak issue to me. If it were compression or valves I do not think it would clean out after starting.

 

I rebuilt my entire fuel system last year after rust in the tank corroded everything from the tank to literally clogging the injectors. I replaced everything including relining the tank, new pump, lines, filter, and injectors. The only part I did not change was the fuel pressure regulator which I just changed. I have yet to put any miles on it since the FPR change to see if it has remedied the issue. I also replaced the engine coolant temp sensor with a new OEM sensor as well. 

 

I hate throwing parts at a problem but I figure it also doesn't hurt on a 35 year old truck. I'd rather have stuff replaced now than have it break down 1500 miles from home on a trip. 

 

I also just removed my fancy blue NGK spark plug wires and replaced them with an OEM set from toyota ($110 ouch). I did this because anytime I'd touch the main coil wire going to the distributor it would shock the living hell out of me, I'm talking a GOOD shock. I replaced with OEM and boom, no more shock! 

 

Photo for attention since she looked good after a bath the other day.

 

 

Edited July 23, 2025 by Odyssey 4x4

[Andrewups]

Nice rig. Oh boy, sure thing you did a lot already. I did the valves job on mine because the people on the forums advising do do it each 60k miles on the regular truck ( on the motorhome I guess we need to do it on less miles), and like you, I will not like to be stuck somewhere, fare from home. I'm glad I did it because all the exhaust valves were bad, almost no space on the 6th one. I added the video that I used like guide to do it.  For the tools I used original Toyota bucket spacer (don't spend your money and time on not original ones), Kawasaki bucket pusher 08-0019( valves pliers didn't work well for me), thin screwdriver to pop up the shims and some magnetic tip for chaise the shims. You will have some fun with 6th one, there are no space there to work, but "if I can do it then you can do it". 😉

Also, check your throttle position sensor, you may need to adjust it (it easy to do, check the fsm) - it helped me with unstable idle. 

Later I will add the picture of the bucket spacer.

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/pKEkOdQuJR4?si=ovkXKf21kSqiGFKz

[Odyssey 4x4]

24 minutes ago, Andrewups said:

Nice rig. Oh boy, sure thing you did a lot already. I did the valves job on mine because the people on the forums advising do do it each 60k miles on the regular truck ( on the motorhome I guess we need to do it on less miles), and like you, I will not like to be stuck somewhere, fare from home. I'm glad I did it because all the exhaust valves were bad, almost no space on the 6th one. I added the video that I used like guide to do it.  For the tools I used original Toyota bucket spacer (don't spend your money and time on not original ones), Kawasaki bucket pusher 08-0019( valves pliers didn't work well for me), thin screwdriver to pop up the shims and some magnetic tip for chaise the shims. You will have some fun with 6th one, there are no space there to work, but "if I can do it then you can do it". 😉

Also, check your throttle position sensor, you may need to adjust it (it easy to do, check the fsm) - it helped me with unstable idle. 

Later I will add the picture of the bucket spacer.

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/pKEkOdQuJR4?si=ovkXKf21kSqiGFKz

 

Thanks! I appreciate the info. So the Kawasaki tool worked well for you? 

 

And yes I have already checked my position sensor as well as my air flow meter and all was cleaned and in spec. I am going to give it another go just in case since it's moderately easy to do. I've also already dont all kinds of work I can't remember as of now but including timing belt, water pump, thermostat, vacuum lines, radiator, belts, ac compressor, ac condenser coil/dryer, etc etc. The truck runs well and I've travelled about 10,000 miles on it since the build of the camper. 

[Scott iv]

I've been replied to on here about there being no need to do valve adjustments on the 3vz with an anecdote about having many trucks with that engine and never doing it. I'm sure you are aware Toyota has recommended intervals for doing the valve job on that particular motor and it is not something they are just recommending to be a PIA. The motor will last as long as most other Toyota motors if you commit to the required maintenance. In the motorcycle world hard hot start is the early sign of tight valves. Power issues develop as the issue becomes severe. The shim bucket valve system is more performance oriented but is also more time consuming. The other way to look at it would be to consider the 3vz as a throw away motor and run it until the valves are shot and then replace the whole motor. I'm sure I'm speaking to the choir but have seen people dispute Toyota's maintenance recommendations here. 

 

This is purely my perception and could very well be wrong but out my way I see few if any 3vz motorhomes on the road. A few of the older ones (22re) but very rarely the newer 3vz ones. 

[Odyssey 4x4]

30 minutes ago, Scott iv said:

I've been replied to on here about there being no need to do valve adjustments on the 3vz with an anecdote about having many trucks with that engine and never doing it. I'm sure you are aware Toyota has recommended intervals for doing the valve job on that particular motor and it is not something they are just recommending to be a PIA. The motor will last as long as most other Toyota motors if you commit to the required maintenance. In the motorcycle world hard hot start is the early sign of tight valves. Power issues develop as the issue becomes severe. The shim bucket valve system is more performance oriented but is also more time consuming. The other way to look at it would be to consider the 3vz as a throw away motor and run it until the valves are shot and then replace the whole motor. I'm sure I'm speaking to the choir but have seen people dispute Toyota's maintenance recommendations here. 

 

This is purely my perception and could very well be wrong but out my way I see few if any 3vz motorhomes on the road. A few of the older ones (22re) but very rarely the newer 3vz ones. 

 

I'm sure a lot of the 3vzes on the road in standard trucks and forerunners are also more forgiving without valve lash checks, a 6000 LB + motorhome is a different story and a hard working engine. I am in the belief that the valves should certainly be adjusted and maintained as needed unless your engine is already in bad shape and soon to be replaced. This camper seemed well taken care of and properly used when I bought it, but I have no way of knowing if previous owners ever had the valves done or checked. It is at about 130k miles now. Most of the RV owners with the 3.0 that have reported here after a valve check have almost always found tight exhaust valves, as to be expected with this engine. 

 

The thing runs well, I have covered almost all necessary maintenance on it since I bought it since I want it to obviously be reliable for far distance travel. It seems like a solid engine with a lot of life left to it. If the engine were to ever give out I would start planning a 3.4 swap, but as of right now I don't have the time or finances for that. 

 

Also, I feel like there are a decent amount of the 3.0 engines left in toy homes still on the road. Almost all of the newer winnibagos are still rocking the 3.0 other than the ones swapped to a 3.4.

 

Having said all that, does it make sense that the engine clears out with some throttle after the hot start issue if it were a compression issue? That seems more like a fuel issue or vapor lock to me. That is why I just replaced the pressure regulator, my theory was that it could possibly not be holding fuel pressure when hot and the engine was off while pumping gas or whatever. It then cranks and restarts once fuel got back to it. I did seem to have better starting chances if I primed the pump with a few key cycles before restarting. 

 

I will be putting some miles on it this weekend with the new FPR, ECT sensor, and OEM toyota wires and see how she does. 

Edited July 23, 2025 by Odyssey 4x4

[Ssunrader]

Compression has never been restored with fuel system changes.
 

Another way to look at it would be to pull the heads, replace the stretched exhaust valves that would require the thinnest valve shims or even out of spec ones. The repeated heating of the exhaust valves leaves them left in a longer state.
 

The valve shims are getting to be hard to find, mine came from a donor engine in a u-pull junkyard during a hot spell.

A motor swap would not be fun either if the thought of doing all that work seems like too much.

 

[Scott iv]

Yea, I'm sure your combing 4runner forums for solutions as well. How was the condition of the fuel injector seats? Hopefully you replaced them when the injectors were out. Sounds like your hitting everything. Even silly things like the gas cap. Spark plug condition/coloration. Codes being thrown (not sure how sophisticated the computer is on that model). Vacuum line condition. 

[Odyssey 4x4]

25 minutes ago, Ssunrader said:

Compression has never been restored with fuel system changes.
 

Another way to look at it would be to pull the heads, replace the stretched exhaust valves that would require the thinnest valve shims or even out of spec ones. The repeated heating of the exhaust valves leaves them left in a longer state.
 

The valve shims are getting to be hard to find, mine came from a donor engine in a u-pull junkyard during a hot spell.

A motor swap would not be fun either if the thought of doing all that work seems like too much.

 

 

Low compression has not yet been confirmed at this point. Soon to test. The fuel system rebuild was due to having my entire fuel system contaminated with rust (see here), not chasing a compression issue. However, a failing fuel pressure regulator may fail to keep fuel pressure at the rail, possibly causing a starting issue. I do see valves available from toyota of various sizes, but I'm sure I'll have to pay up for them. 

 

I would certainly love to see a 3.4 in this rig, but at this point the 3vze chugs her along just fine. Maybe next year. 

[Odyssey 4x4]

9 minutes ago, Scott iv said:

Yea, I'm sure your combing 4runner forums for solutions as well. How was the condition of the fuel injector seats? Hopefully you replaced them when the injectors were out. Sounds like your hitting everything. Even silly things like the gas cap. Spark plug condition/coloration. Codes being thrown (not sure how sophisticated the computer is on that model). Vacuum line condition. 

 

Yup indeed new injector seats, plugs, sanded and cleaned distributor contacts, all vacuum lines, and fuel cap.

 

Unrelated but a year or so ago I was having an over pressurization of my fuel tank, take the cap off and it let out a big burst of air / vapor. After hunting that issue down I found that my evap charcoal canister valve had seized up and wasn't allowing vapor though. The entire thing was pretty nasty. I cut the old one apart (carefully of course with a sparking dremel and possibly fuel saturated canister) and it was totally seized up. Those have been discontinued so I rigged up an after market charcoal canister for now, issue fixed. I may try to find a clean OEM canister from a junk yard just to get back to OEM, but it's not high on the priority list. Also, no engine codes at this point. I also replaced the bimetal vacuum switch valve that is responsible for sending vacuum to the canister to tell it to flow vapor to atmosphere or intake manifold. They get super brittle on the long plastic line coming out of it and will break just if you look at them wrong. 

[Ssunrader]

I would highly recommend setting the valve clearances to prevent a teardown.

I consider myself pretty mechanically capable but I had to pass on replacing the shims with the cams in place. Just think of how you could be methodically removing the cams instead of struggling with getting those shims out.

Hopefully it can keep chugging along for years to come.

 

Keep in mind also that the only thing keeping the exhaust valves cool is the time they spend in contact with the valve seats.

Edited July 24, 2025 by Ssunrader

[extech]

time on the seat increases as lash decreases.  only when the lash goes away does the valve get hotter

[extech]

wait.  did i say that?   sorry it's wrong

[linda s]

We need to not forget that the number 6 valve is baking from the heat of that crossover exhaust. It's getting more than normal wear.

Linda S