Maineah Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 The early 2.7 had shims the 2TR 2.7 did not it really does not matter neither were used in Toy Homes. The 3L had issues it was a new engine in 89. they had head gasket problems oil slugging and tighting valves. All though a pain to do the adjustment was not all that difficult once the valve cover was removed the tappet tool made life easy a magnet or what I used more often was compressed air to remove the shim. First check the clearance if it's too tight try a smaller gauge until it fits remove the shim measure it subtract the difference for the replacement shim. The same ideal if it's too lose just add the difference. I usually wrote the clearance right on the head. This is far from a new ideal been used in race cars from the 30's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) On 6/7/2015 at 0:35 PM, jjrbus said: While we are on the subject. Not knowing what I am doing I have many questions. I'm guessing the cam will need to be rotated to align it for checking clearances, what is the best/easiest way to rotate it, without disassembling the engine? JIm Just turn the crank clockwise (with the timing belt in place) until both cam lobes on each cylinder your doing point up away from the shims that will be TDC on that cylinder (both valves closed). Do not turn the engine with out the belt in place or the cam. You can use the starter to bump it if you like but a tool on the crank bolt works pretty well. No need to remove the timing belt, if you are going to replace it any way that can be the last step. Edited December 22, 2016 by Maineah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 17 minutes ago, Maineah said: The early 2.7 had shims the 2TR 2.7 did not it really does not matter neither were used in Toy Homes. The 3L had issues it was a new engine in 89. they had head gasket problems oil slugging and tighting valves. All though a pain to do the adjustment was not all that difficult once the valve cover was removed the tappet tool made life easy a magnet or what I used more often was compressed air to remove the shim. First check the clearance if it's too tight try a smaller gauge until it fits remove the shim measure it subtract the difference for the replacement shim. The same ideal if it's too lose just add the difference. I usually wrote the clearance right on the head. This is far from a new ideal been used in race cars from the 30's. What about the availability of the shims? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 On 6/4/2015 at 7:12 AM, zero said: I assume few people do it because it is a HUGE pain-in-the-behind. A serious design flaw on the part of Toyota AND Nissan (they had a similar setup for awhile). I can't comprehend why Toyota did not just use self-adjusting hydraulic lifters if they wanted a so-called "low maintenance" valve-train. Who the Hell wants to remove their camshafts, cam gears, plenum, etc.and buy/borrow a bunch of tools to get the lifter/shim/buckets set up properly?? It seems that some want-to-be engineering genius at Toyota thought he/she could design a mechanical valve-lift system that would self-adjust as it wore and keep lash a constant. NOPE. DID NOT WORK. Maybe valve-seat recession was more then anticipated. It was, and still is - a piss-poor design. That being said, I assume that an engine that's done over with ultra-hard valves and valve-seats, along with high ZDDP motor oil - will last a long time between valve clearance "adjustments." It is a proven design used on race engines since the 30's just about every modern engine now use the same system. My 2011 Tacoma has 24 shimmed valves I know of one fellow that has in excess of 300K on his. The problem with the 3L was very hard valve seats that did not ware but what happened was the valve stretched ( valve design flaw maybe) thus reducing the clearance. Yes they do stretch granted it is not a great deal but enough to reduce the clearance. Generally the seat the shims and the valve all ware at the same rate thus the clearance remains the same through the life of the valve it is a good system that reduces valve train weight thus higher revs and more power per pound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 19 minutes ago, jjrbus said: What about the availability of the shims? That you would have to find out from your Toyota dealer. Often they can be used else were so the numbers my not be real high in other words you may not need all 12 shims. That's why I mark that stuff down right on the head at each valve. I can assure this is not some thing you are going to do in 15 minutes but if you take your time and know each shim size your shim count can be reduced. If you use them again just turn them over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 I have done a valve adjustment, You do NOT have to pull camshafts. You do NOT have to take off timing belt. I put a post on here about the job I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) On December 21, 2016 at 7:43 PM, DanAatTheCape said: I have done a valve adjustment, You do NOT have to pull camshafts. You do NOT have to take off timing belt. I put a post on here about the job I did. I, for one, would like to get the link to that post Dan mentioned... And, btw, I used shims from this company for a Toy 5SFE valve adjustment, a few years ago. Prices were great and shipping was quick. https://www.industrialpartshouse.com/search.aspx?tSearch=Shim#pageSize=ALL Edited December 23, 2016 by Ctgriffi Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 47 minutes ago, Ctgriffi said: I, for one, would like to get the link to that post Dan mentioned... And, btw, I used shims from this company for a Toy 5SFE valve adjustment, a few years ago. Prices were great and shipping was quick. https://www.industrialpartshouse.com/search.aspx?tSearch=Shim#pageSize=ALL here's that link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 here is a link to my thread on a work around for a home made knock sensor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 (edited) On 6/4/2015 at 11:53 AM, Derek up North said: I might have missed it, but I think the cams can stay in place for the 3VZ-E. I have a very vague fuzzy memory that cam removal was needed for the Jag XK engine. Rereading this yes the XK engines had to have the cams removed the shim was under the bucket about dime size but much thicker the were measured A to Z. I never had to do one because of tight/loose valves only after valve work I still have the cam alignment tool. They did ware because they were right on top of the valve stem so all the valve parts wore together seat, valve, and shim the type 3 also had shimmed valves never had to do one. Most of the Italian stuff was similar to the Toyota 3L. The was a rare day I needed to do a valve adjustment with out valve work to any thing other than the Toyota 3L. Edited December 27, 2016 by Maineah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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