YoungSage Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I am planning on removing the carpet in my 88 Sunrader and replacing it with laminate floor. Since I am considering that project I am also thinking of making a clean sweep and removing the imitation leather "marshmallow chair" dinette. It is in great shape - just kind of a clunky use of space. My thought is to build two movable wooden boxes that would take the place of the chairs - these would have openable lids with pads for sitting. I would be able to store stuff in the boxes and also be able to stack them having placed sections of dowell that interlock when stacked so they won't topple. The table will be a fold up style attached to the wall with one or maybe two supports that can hinge down to the floor. Questions: - is this wise considering the ever present concept of "resale value"? - the rarely used forced air furnace ducts would also be removed - leaving only one duct in the bathroom and one on the floor beneath the fridge. Es bueno? - do people ever sell or buy dinettes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Resale value is a strange thing, so do what you want, if you can keep the stuff. That way it could be reinstalled by the F/O. Most buyers will buy some thing the way it is and then make it fit their needs. Removing the bath or kitchen for your personal need would be a much harder "sale". Look at the fixed hard mount dinettes, maybe a 1 person wide version would give you needed storage and a place for the heater duct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Debit did this in her Dolphin and it came out beautiful. I can't find the thread to show you but maybe someone can Found it. Before and after pics in post 1 http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6475&hl= Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 +1 with what WME says, imho. Also, I wouldn't worry to much about the fear of loosing resale value because of a change in your case... i don't think those seats are factory originals... Lately I have been fantasizing about removing all of my cabinets and making more open space, removing the 3 way fridge even, and possibly even the oven/kitchen in the rear replacing it all with framed in hammocks for sleeping and banana hammocks for gear. would reduce weight, increase space and capacity potential Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Yeah those are definitely factory Sunrader seats. In nice condition too. If you do decide to get rid of them just make sure you offer them on the site or craigslist. Lots of people have nasty seats and would love a clean set. The table too is in demand Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Did the west coast 88 ones get leather? My east coast 86 had 70's style plaid crocheted chairs that matched the couch and bed cushions. Only the bed cushions were kept due to their custom foam, but the couch and seats had to go.. Too bad I missed leather by 2 years. Doah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I think it's a matter of newer. Maybe just west coast too. The ones with the fiberglass cabinets usually have these seats if they are set up with seats like this. Plaid was an option on west coast Sunraders too but both of mine have velour upholstery. I have never seen plaid on a later model Sunrader and by that I mean 87 and up Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I would add some draw latches to the boxes to keep them held firmly together for travel when stacking them. That style of catch has pretty good force and closes with positive pressure. But they are easy to open and close when you want to unstack the pieces. Easy to find in hardware stores. Some are inexpensive and basic but others are more high end looking for use on nice furniture. http://www.leevalley.com/EN/HARDWARE/page.aspx?p=48576&cat=3,41399,41433&ap=1 I personally would not use wood dowels for alignment due to potential for binding with humidity. I would personally prefer that one box has a lip that slips over the box below it so that they nest together. That will give greater resistance to sideways movement versus dowels. You can trim out the bottom of both boxes so that they look like they have a base board band around them. But the box that goes on top is just a little larger which will not be something people will even notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Wow! So many great ideas and support! Thanks team! Corbin, I think I will incorporate your latch and nesting boxes ideas. I can see that being quite solid. I can visualize the strong connection between the boxes but what of the boxes being anchored to the floor and wall when underway? I was thinking of dowels .... maybe fat ones.. 2 inch diameter pieces a half inch long, with a corresponding peg hole I would drill through the laminate and sub floors. Or... I could just slide the two stacked boxes into the corner made by the fridge and the wall, then use some kind of cam-strap tie-down from the fridge to the wall to snuggle the boxes into that corner... Might be more clean and simple... No holes to sprain a toe in or collect rice cake detritus. I'm excited to start! Of course it will take more time and focus than I imagine right now, but it will be most beautiful and functional once finished! I guess the next step is seeing how much interest others may have in those sweet eighties marshmallow chairs. They are in great shape as is the table. .... To the classifieds section of this wondrous website I go!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 You can mount an additional hook for a draw latch on the floor. The latch itself goes on the bottom of the base. There are a lot of versions of draw latches around you just need to find one bent the way you need it to fit. Such as the one in the link. Note that there is an option for stainless steel show in the list below the zinc plated one. You don't need locating dowels, the latch will keep the bases constrained in position because the base has to fit down inside of the 90 degree bend of that catch piece as it rises up from the floor. Plus there is no slop when they are latched together. You can install the catch piece with quick release fasteners if you wanted to do so. http://www.protex.com/03-544MSZN-catch-plate-for-toggle-latch-mild-steel-zinc-plate-passivate-silver-blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 And I could put a draw latch on the fridge wall and the coach wall right? Latch the two boxes together when stacked. Latch the stack to the floor and to the wall. Latches to attach the boxes to the floor when deployed as "dinette chairs" Latches all around. I think I see the vision, Corbin k. Am I getting your drift? Thanks immensely! I was wanting to make the boxes strong yet light. What gauge plywood would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 And I could put a draw latch on the fridge wall and the coach wall right? Latch the two boxes together when stacked. Latch the stack to the floor and to the wall. Latches to attach the boxes to the floor when deployed as "dinette chairs" Latches all around. I think I see the vision, Corbin k. Am I getting your drift? Thanks immensely! I was wanting to make the boxes strong yet light. What gauge plywood would you recommend? Yes you can put draw latches there too. Just remember to put some blocking behind the walls as the plywood used on the motorhomes is very thin and can't hold a fastener on its own. Since a seat base box is a structural safety item for the plywood use 3/8" minimum. You need to put blocking in all the corners, that is where the real strength in holding the pieces together will come from. A 1.5" x 1.5" by the length of the corner will be very suitable. Essentially you are making a frame that is covered with plywood. Spread the glue evenly over the whole surface of the blocking where it mates to the plywood. The glue gives the strength, you don't need a lot of big nails or screws. Fasteners are just for holding the pieces in place until the glue dries. I use lots of clamps to hold the pieces until the glue dries when making boxes of this type. My personal favorite glue for this type of work is Locktite, Polyseam Seal adhesive caulk. It has just a little flex to it so the glue lines won't let go even if the boxes get pulled on with straps and such or if spills happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Sweet. Got it. A fine box building recipe! Now, who wants to buy my marshmallow chair dinette from the late eighties? Time to start the demo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 I've posted my marshmallow dinette for sale over at the classifieds on this site and on Craigslist here in California. Waiting for any nibbles. Over and out. http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/classifieds/listing/2327/Pristine_Dinette_From_1988_Sunrader_Classic_Toyota_Motorhome.html https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/rvs/4855979444.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I saw these on craigslist and wondered if they were yours. Good luck on the sale. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwkelso Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Hey Sage, I just started this very process.. Just tore out my old carpeting, Fridge and heater. I have a '83 Mini but my layout was similar to Debbits, I hated the placement of that fridge crammed in the rear with the stove so it had to go. I had 3 gas lines and a 120v outlet back there so I plan reroute the gas under the cab and tie in a Interior and exterior rear light with that 120v line. My fridge had to come out the window as it didnt fit out the door. I LOVE how much space I have now it is like a whole new Mini to me and I just more and more of a blank canvas. For me Bumper mounted coolers work just fine and once I get a nice inverter and battery set up Ill move on to a electric cooler but those old 3 way fridges take up alot of room.. and in a RV where every SQ IN counts Ill take it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hey MWKELSO, Inspiring! You are firing me up to take this further. . . . Your post brings up for me the old harbinger of "resale value" that I have been clinging to sort of - the feeling that I need to keep and maintain the vintage 80's theme in here. In reading your post I am reminded that this is MY SPACE and I can create more space by getting rid of more of the outdated and inefficient and LARGE technologies they had available in the eighties. Electric coolers for the fridge. Pee bottles and wag bags for a toilet system - making due with one sink in the rig instead of two - reconsidering the shower - take it outside and free up some more space. If I take it too far I may end up driving around in an empty fiberglass husk with a laminate wood floor. Sounds pretty good. I will find the middle way. Thanks for your thoughts and sharings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Me too, the fridge is overkill, though we use ours a lot, I am not sure it's space weight efficient. Anyone want to buy a 3 way dometic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I took out my old fridge, it was non functional when I purchased my rig. Took out my big propane tank too. Got rid of my propane furnace and propane range with oven. New furnace is also the cooktop, runs on a small container of diesel that is in the cabinet under the stove. Refill at any gas station that has diesel and most of them do. Takes a while to heat up the cooktop so for really fast hot water for coffee and such I have a small propane canister single burner unit. I am not cooking for a family so I absolutely don't need a big stove with an oven and 3 burners. The new fridge is a drop in, lots of foam insulation, 110/ 12v remote mount compressor. Very energy efficient so I will be able to run it on solar power. This is how many of the RVs in Europe and Australia are being set up. I fiber glassed in the old vent openings from the original gas fridge. This conversion also means my Sunrader won't loose so much heat in the winter and won't have as much heat gain in the summer as it is now better insulated without those big holes in the wall. Plus no leaks from wind driven rain coming in through the louvered vent covers. For the moment I have left the hot water heater in place it is old and needs replacing. But when I do it won't be propane, at a later date when budget allows it will be replaced with the same size water heater that is powered by 110v as well as a solar hot water panel on the roof. So off grid when there is sun for it and 110 if available and needed. I decided not to worry about resale value. I don't plan on selling it. It is going to be my Tiny Home and if the time comes when I don't want to travel I will just park it and use it for a cabin/workshop space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Whoa! Corbin K! You really shared some significant extra special super cool lightweight upgrades. Where did you find that diesel furnace/cooktop unit? And your cooler sounds tremendous as well - I would be heartened by some links if you feel like sharing more. I think I would feel more free to create space and rig I really want if I too were to abandon all concerns of "resale value" as you mentioned. I would love to clear out most of the stuff in here. You have given me more courage. Thanks. Your suggestions and stories are always rich. Much gratitude Corbin K! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 hope you have deep pockets for one of those... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390992260209?lpid=82&chn=ps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 I found this one... Kinda steep though - http://www.scanmarineusa.com/wp-content/uploads/Wallas-XC-Duo-2014-Dealer-B.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Whoa! Corbin K! You really shared some significant extra special super cool lightweight upgrades. Where did you find that diesel furnace/cooktop unit? And your cooler sounds tremendous as well - I would be heartened by some links if you feel like sharing more. I think I would feel more free to create space and rig I really want if I too were to abandon all concerns of "resale value" as you mentioned. I would love to clear out most of the stuff in here. You have given me more courage. Thanks. Your suggestions and stories are always rich. Much gratitude Corbin K! The diesel stove furnace is from Scan Marine, got a deep discount on it buying during the Seattle Boat show a few years back. That price quoted is over 1K more than I paid. Even so it was still pretty expensive however both my stove and my furnace had to be replaced due to corrosion issues so the price of regular appliances offset a lot of the dollars of the purchase price. My propane tank and valve were also old and would have warranted replacing and upgrading so there was cost savings by not having them. When I looked at the balance sheet it was not all that bad of a deal. Plus I needed the weight and space savings brought about from the change in appliances. My Sunrader is not a family summer vacation rig, its being fitted out as my live/work space. So my decision making criteria is very different than the average RV owner. The fridge is a unit I got from Sure Marine, they are located in my neighborhood. They have a lot of options for top loading refrigerator/freezers. I got a discount through a friend who is associated with them. Not the kind of discount I can pass along though. I don't need a large fridge. liked this particular unit for a number of reasons. Easy to super insulate by adding more foam around it, small enough to fit into the space I had available in my design as the compressor can be remote mounted several feet away from the cooler box and it only weighs 22lbs. I don't have deep pockets, very much the opposite in fact. However I was downsizing my workshop and sold off most of my cabinet making tools since I can't physically do those things anymore. So that money provided for the motorhome project. When life hands you lemons make lemonade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 If I were to remove my Dinette I would close-off the heat vents that are in the dinette base - thus leaving only two vents to blow into the rig when the forced air furnace is engaged: One at the base of the fridge in the living area and one in the bathroom. Is there a problem with closing off and eliminating those two vents under the dinette? WIll this put undue backpressure on the furnace and mess it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 No, My 18ft Sunrader doesn't use all the vents available in the furnace. The other ones are covered by these http://www.rvpartscenter.com/rv-parts-store/rv-repair-parts/rv-furnace-parts/suburban-rv-furnace-parts/suburban-rv-heater-duct-cover-050733.htm They fit right on the furnace. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 I have removed the dinette and carpet and readying to install a laminate wood floor. Upon removing the carpet in the doorway/step I noticed this electrical wire coming from a hole in the coach. One of the wires looks a bit worn. Anyone know what this wire is for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Can't help with the 'What's it for' question, but I'd use a multimeter to see if it's getting power and when. That might lead to your answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I have removed the dinette and carpet and readying to install a laminate wood floor. Upon removing the carpet in the doorway/step I noticed this electrical wire coming from a hole in the coach. One of the wires looks a bit worn. Anyone know what this wire is for? image.jpgimage.jpg It's the wiring for your step light. Look for a switch on the side of the nearest cabinet. Light should look something like this http://www.amazon.com/MARINE-COURTESY-RECESSED-CHROME-PLATED/dp/B00N43D2ZU Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungSage Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I did it! Tore out the dinette, the marshmallow chairs and the carpeting. I installed an industrial strength linoleum floor, built storage box/seats out of genuine plywood and upholstered them in basic black naugahide. I am very pleased with the resulting organized and clean, sweepable space. Stoked. I even put a "sweep out" in the doorway for easy,no-dustpan sweeping! I anchored the boxes in with molding on the floor and a slightly larger box on the lower level with 1/2" lips that hold in the upper boxes. Barring any catastrophic stopping they are locked in place and yet easily removable. Thanks to everyone that offered advice and suggestions in this process. It would have been far more difficult without this wondrous community of enthusiasts. Hats off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Nice job! Very practical and sleek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Nice job, looks like you put a lot of time effort and thought into it! JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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