ToyoGuy Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Try as I might I can't seem to find information copied from a previous posting (long ago), or the post, about a table-pedestal base that someone purchased, that was surface-mount and had a sort of bayonet twist-lock at the bottom. I would really like to avoid punching a big hole in the new floor and my (somewhat-foggy?) recollection was that the unit was fairly low profile and sturdy. (Yeah, I know,......."The checks in the mail,.... I'll pay you next Friday,... This is a self-cleaning model !!......He's a really nice guy.) Anybody know of such an animal? Happy adventuring to all, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Thanks corbin. Will do that and look at reviews to get an idea about how well they work. TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 My Nova Star had a support that attached to the table it's self it folded under the table when not in use and the other end was fixed to the wall had a single leg so it was not in the way when you used the table. The mounting plate for the single post ones do not require a hole in the floor other that the screws to hold it down it does not need a hole as big as the post.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Wow, the plot thickens !..... It would be very cool to have a setup like Mopar Earl so the the post just dropped the table top right down into the sleeping position, but,...... the pedestal can't be removed for floor space, if needed. (He has a much bigger rig than me tho). Also, I have the 18' 'Rader w/ U-shaped dinettte, so attaching the table top to the wall with a bracket and using a swing-out leg is out. This (below?) is the system I'm looking at. The base is 1" high when the pedestal is removed, and while it hasn't got the mass and broader base of the telescoping system, I think it looks reasonably sturdy. Interesting that most of these pedestal systems primarily designed for boats seem to be sold for a finished height of about 28". No explanation from techs online. In preliminary measuring, it looks like, for my '84, 18' dinette-in-back, the table height needs to be at least 30'-31" to feel like I'm eating at the adults table, and heck, I'm short!! The seats / cabinets are all new, but I kept the original height and the cushions are original thickness at this point. So, what height is a stock Sunrader table anyway?? Anybody can fill me in? Thanks, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUSTABANGER Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I'd like to have one like the one from the wildcat site. But I couldn't find one like it for sale. On another note the table top drops right thru to the floor the way it is now. I can't figure out any way it would fit as the center piece for the bed. Even if it did make in to a bed it would have to be for a child as the total length inside the booth is right at 5 foot 4 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 My 18ft Sunrader Post is 30" inset into floor about 2" Table thickness 3/4" So table top height is around 28 3/4 inches Mines not set up so it might not fit into lower bracket all the way. Can't be sure. Might be a half to an inch higher when set up Linda S If your table goes all the way to the floor now you will have to build some supports for it. Mine is held up by the seat sides and an extra support bracket at the front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Thanks all, went for the 30" option. Will report as to quality and sturdiness when it get's installed. The old owner threw out the old table and had replaced it with a kind of munchkin-sized rectangular thing like a cocktail lounge. It held 4 sodas and 1 plate, absolutely useless and the 1' x 6" boards needed to bridge the sleeping area took up a lot of the already rare space under the seats. Mine had "ledger boards" that lined the dinette right behind one's knees that the table sat upon as usual?. The old ledgers were 2" x 4" s covered with carpet and huge... The replacements will be much smaller so as not to be rubbing the backs of everyone's calves whilst scarfing. I am seriously considering fabricating the tabletop with hinged "wings" that fold under and secure with small barrel-bolts to hold them in place and keep the table slim enough for my "relaxed-fit" figure to scoot in and out while in use. They would fold out to make it correctly fit the back bunk space for the bed make-up. So many ideas, so little time it seems.... BR, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunnynshare Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Here is a video of what we did to ours to make setup and breakdown a breeze. It takes seconds to get the bed up and down and is fully supported. Kim https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1g_7qq4iLFc&list=UUKKdTtDd_73MKZghl-qm6Dg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Plan B do the same thing, but use a tubing expander to flair the pipe so that there no sharp edges to bite someone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Hello All, sorry for long delay on promised update and pix, got roped into some late season landscaping by the boss. On the table, I went with the Springfield-style locking screw-in base and slide-over pedestal. (Approximately $76.00 incl shipping, not cheap, but I'm in deep) I chose to put threaded brass inserts into the floor for the flange, which was a bit of a hassle, but suits my purposes for removal and re-installations. Also, I wanted extra room in the coach when needed, so I split the table top and used a set of "flip-flop" hinges on it. They allow the top to fold down, or lock up into position for some added space. They do require routing, so it's not a bada-bing kinda install. Note to interested parties, they are spring-loaded and very, very strong. Probably not good for curious children, weak of hand or the "not-so-nimble". I actually cut 2 of the return springs to relieve some tension and they are still plenty strong for me. It must be because of restaurants using them, liability and how heavily tables are loaded. The bottom of the post locks nicely, but it's not metal-to-metal, so you probably wouldn't want to lean on the whole assy the way you can with a drop-in that just kind of bends in the socket. Likely, no forgiveness there, but I should note that "door-slammers" and hammer-mechanics generally aren't welcome around my place anyway. The table-top socket locks on with a trigger release, but will rotate, which I like. I did relieve the sharp outside edge of the pedestal tube and buff it a bit and it makes a ton of difference sliding it on and off. For others nfo, I bought the 30" post and with 3/4" ply for the top, ended up with 31" at the top of the table. I'm a medium-sized guy and that worked out perfect for me. I almost forgot to consider the thickness of the cushions, (the seats are @ stock height) then set them in and it all worked out. Waist clearance is good, but I am building my own non-stock cabinets and I can't help stock 'Rader cabinet owners on that. Having it rotate is helpful though. Another note, in my 18' 84', I couldn't find any way to keep the stock pedestal location under the middle of the top and still have the back space to be large enough for any human over the age of 5, so I moved the pedestal back about 3" toward the rear and, for 2 adults, it's way more reasonable in terms of ease and efficiency. Happy winterizing, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Nice work. Looks very stable Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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