MontanaChinook Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Well, some of you are probably fairly familiar with my skill level at this point... What I did for my Chinook counter-tops was use a 1/2" sheet of plywood, and lay down the cheapest counter top material I could find at home depot. Some very thin stuff with nasty cement to adhere it. But it's NOT good. I wanted to save weight and figured none of my counter tops are really load bearing, so they could be thin. But maybe I was wrong. Also I'm not so good with cutting it. Had to cut out the stove top, which didn't turn out too bad. Passable, for my rv. But the sink has some intricate cut-outs, and it didn't turn out well. What have other people done? So far, putting things back together, my sink and stove top (really the only counter top in the thing) are the only things that I'm really looking at thinking "this is not ok". Just really not up to par. I don't know that it would be too expensive to just contract this out...but I figured I throw it out there for your ideas first. It's basically a 3' by 2' (ish) top for the stove, and the sink is really only about 2' by 1.5'. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Well, some of you are probably fairly familiar with my skill level at this point... What I did for my Chinook counter-tops was use a 1/2" sheet of plywood, and lay down the cheapest counter top material I could find at home depot. Some very thin stuff with nasty cement to adhere it. But it's NOT good. I wanted to save weight and figured none of my counter tops are really load bearing, so they could be thin. But maybe I was wrong. Also I'm not so good with cutting it. Had to cut out the stove top, which didn't turn out too bad. Passable, for my rv. But the sink has some intricate cut-outs, and it didn't turn out well. What have other people done? So far, putting things back together, my sink and stove top (really the only counter top in the thing) are the only things that I'm really looking at thinking "this is not ok". Just really not up to par. I don't know that it would be too expensive to just contract this out...but I figured I throw it out there for your ideas first. It's basically a 3' by 2' (ish) top for the stove, and the sink is really only about 2' by 1.5'. Any thoughts? I bought a standard size laminate countertop at Home Depot for $66. It was a littler wider then I wanted but I cut the backsplash off and it fit perfect into my 78 Chinook. Hampton Bay 6 ft. Tempo Laminate Countertop in Tumbled Roca Model # 483538T6 Store SKU # 370224 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 If you still have your old countertops make a cardboard template from them, then transfer to your new material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 The template I used worked perfect. I just laid the old countertop on my plywood and traced. It's the laminate top that isn't working for me... In my Chinook, I don't have the long counter on one side and bench/bed on the other. I have two very small counters on either side. One side has the sink, the other side has the stove. I guess I could buy a 6' counter and just cut it up to the sizes I need still, though. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwhyte Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 I'm working on counter tops myself right now, and I've never done anything close to it, so my girlfriends dad is giving me a hand. His advice was this, use particle board (I think it's 3/4 inch) because of the density of the material. Plywood will dent and deform if any force is applied to it, and therefor the laminate will dent as well. Plywood also tends to bend when a load is set on it (like your stove), while the particle board won't. The way he installs the counter top to the particle board is to cut the piece of laminate slightly larger than necessary, then use a router to cut the holes and around the edges. He is also a perfectionist and long time cabinet maker/carpenter/handy man, and I know that without his help I would probably be doing the same thing you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Particleboard is a bad choice. Not only is it extremely heavy, but if it becomes wet it swells causing the laminate to bulge. Particleboard is soft. A quality piece of 5/8 or 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood will work much better. Particleboard and MDF are rarely used today for cabinet work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Yeah,more tools and an experienced person would be great! The original countertops were particle board. I didn't like the weight.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 The template I used worked perfect. I just laid the old countertop on my plywood and traced. It's the laminate top that isn't working for me... Try some cabinet shops that sell "Corian". You might find some end cuts that will work. This stuff is strong, can be cut with skill or saber saw, routed, sanded and is completely water resistant. Check with any local cabinet shops. You may find some end cuts of "Corian" at a good price. This stuff is great. You can cut it with a circular or saber saw, it can be routed,sanded and is completely waterproof. It usually comes in a creamy white color but other colors can be had. Good luck. Fred In my Chinook, I don't have the long counter on one side and bench/bed on the other. I have two very small counters on either side. One side has the sink, the other side has the stove. I guess I could buy a 6' counter and just cut it up to the sizes I need still, though. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Sorry about the double post. My phone is doing some weird things now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Thanks for the advice. I'll check around a little more and see what I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwhyte Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Particleboard is a bad choice. Not only is it extremely heavy, but if it becomes wet it swells causing the laminate to bulge. Particleboard is soft. A quality piece of 5/8 or 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood will work much better. Particleboard and MDF are rarely used today for cabinet work. Different strokes I suppose. The corian stuff sounds promising though, but I'll be happy just to have mine done. If you end up using a pre made counter from lowes or home depot, I'm pretty sure theyre all built on particle board though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Karin, In the real world you need to have the knowledge and the correct tools to undertake such a project. A decent laminate trim bit can be over $20.00. Add in all the other material costs along with your labor,and often times it's cheaper to buy something premade that you can modify to fit. It's such a small area. I've built and installed custom kitchens and bathrooms for over 20 years. The videos always make the job look simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 I have a piece of corian I'm am going to use to replace the counter top and table on my Tiger Provan. Was originally an island counter that the owners replaced with granite. Cost me 50 bucks. Love that where ever I cut the finish will be the same all the way through. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Linda, What I love about corian is if you scratch it or ding it, you can sand out the mistakes. Granit is now favored but corian is just as good. It's a very "user friendly" material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 I will have to look into this corian stuff. I like that I'm doing the majority of this myself...but I have to say, going from camper to gutted shell and back to camper again...I'm starting to value my time more than my money, and some of this I just want to get done, without all the research, buying tools and learning how to use them, and having the first attempt still be a "throw away" and have to do it again. I'm learning a lot, but getting a bit burnt out. All I have is two very small separate counters. One holds the sink. There is no more than 2" of counter space any where around the outside of the sink. The other counter holds the stove top. There's a couple inches of counter around three sides of the stove top, and maybe 6" around one side. Very little counter space in this thing. I've considered just using a sheet of plywood with a nice veneer, sealing the heck out of it and calling it good... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Linda has the right idea. Check local kitchen remodelers or even try CL under building materials. I cry when I think how many thousands of dollars in corian I carried to the dump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 There is some really nice looking corian for sale on craigslist in Missoula right now but you dont need it all and don't know if he would break up the lot. Can't hurt to ask http://missoula.craigslist.org/mat/3937036156.html This sheet in Whitefish too but don't know exactly where you are. This ones cheap http://kalispell.craigslist.org/mat/3896346780.html Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 The template I used worked perfect. I just laid the old countertop on my plywood and traced. It's the laminate top that isn't working for me... In my Chinook, I don't have the long counter on one side and bench/bed on the other. I have two very small counters on either side. One side has the sink, the other side has the stove. I guess I could buy a 6' counter and just cut it up to the sizes I need still, though. Thanks. We used to make our own counter tops and cabinets for custom home remodels. It got so it just wasn't cost effective. ( I don't need a video to know how to make a laminate counter-top). For my self . . to use in a camper . . the premade stock countertops at Home Depot are fine. Just cut to fit. Yes they have particle board which works fine for many years unless you've got severe water leaks. I just pulled the factory counter-top out of my 1986 LeSharo. Formica over particle board and over 20 years old. Still perfect and not smell. I was thinking of using it in the Chinook until I decided to buy the stuff at Home Depot. That way I got to cut in the sink exactly where I wanted it. By the way - if you're using plywood and strength is an issue - as well as weight - pine or birch 3 or 4 ply plywood that you find locally is going to be garbage. You can custom order 3/8" marine fir in 3 ply and it's stronger then 1/2 " pine or birch sold at most lumber places. 1/2" marine fir is as strong as 3/4" pine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Zach, You can usually go to a counter top/cabinet place and buy small pieces of whatever you want for a fraction of the cost of buying a full size piece. I know of two places here in the Flathead Valley, one in Whitefish and one in Kalispell, that sell cut-offs of counter top material, usually plywood but sometimes pressboard, covered in Formica. I don't know just what you're looking for but a trip to a local cabinet shop is worth a shot. Any chance you're going to get over the the west side this Summer? If so, shoot me an email and we'll stage a mini rally... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 spray the plywood with a couple of coats of high build auto primer sanding between coats and spot putty as needed to fill voids, then 3 coats or so of high temp automotive paint and you will be good to go. Nice idea, but why stop there? http://www.ebay.com/itm/250745550234?hlp=false&var=#ht_2925wt_970 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Zach, You can usually go to a counter top/cabinet place and buy small pieces of whatever you want for a fraction of the cost of buying a full size piece. I know of two places here in the Flathead Valley, one in Whitefish and one in Kalispell, that sell cut-offs of counter top material, usually plywood but sometimes pressboard, covered in Formica. I don't know just what you're looking for but a trip to a local cabinet shop is worth a shot. Any chance you're going to get over the the west side this Summer? If so, shoot me an email and we'll stage a mini rally... John Thanks John, I will try that. I don't have plans to right now, but my summers usually aren't planned out too much. If I make it over your way, I'll absolutely let you know. Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Flat is good if you are are going to laminate something, plywood finished one side will work the different directions of the ply's tend to keep it from warping also. Your size is not that great so 1/2" would do. I do cutting with a router on a project like that I can use a straight edge against the router base to make nice neat lines and free hand with a small laminate router for intricate stuff. Once you have the cutouts done just cover the whole thing drill a hole big enough to get the laminate trimmer bit through and cut out the laminate with the bearing against the plywood. A saber saw is not a good tool to cut laminate. I would coat the underside with something water proof also that will help a lot with warping. I going to say 1/2 “ ply is going to be about the lightest stuff for your project MDF the heaviest and probably the worst choice. It not a project for first time out with out a hand from some one that has been there before and the proper tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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