gr8white Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 I bought my 86 seabreeze in August and have been doing nothing but dumping money in to it. Granted, it is really nice now but I have 2 problems remaining. The front crank shaft seal is blowing out oil and I need a new blower motor for the heater. The roof ac is only 7500 btu so I will need a new roof system too if I decide to keep it. I will also have to re apolster the bench seats or just simply cover them. Also, the outside seems are coming apart really bad and I dont know what to do but I have no leaks. These are the final remaining problems. The bottom line is this. I have about 8k into this including purchasing the rig. Should I just throw my hands up in the air and get rid of it or fix these things. I also have every spare part under the hood that I can possibly need. I am leaning towards fixing these things. The reason I bought it was to spend time in the Florida Keys and find a place to live there. Now I am thinking of selling it and getting something newer with no problems. I really like it but I havent had a trip without a problem yet. Also, if I was looking to get something else that is newer that gets over 15 miles to the gallon what are my options. Even if it isnt an toyota. If anyone here is in Pa and knows about these I would love to bring it and show you if you would be willing. Im in Western Pa. I just dont know what to do any more. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 do you mean the furnece or cab heater. if it is the front crank seal that is not a big deal too change . the oil pump is in the seal housing . there is also an o ring between the bolt on oil pump and timing cover. that roof ac is the standerd size my dolphon has the same size. my 4wd truck needs a front seal i will do it some day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8white Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 do you mean the furnece or cab heater. if it is the front crank seal that is not a big deal too change . the oil pump is in the seal housing . there is also an o ring between the bolt on oil pump and timing cover. that roof ac is the standerd size my dolphon has the same size. my 4wd truck needs a front seal i will do it some day Its the furnace blower motor. I priced it out at 110.00 plus labor unless I do it myself which I am sure the fine people here can tell me how to do it. Yes, it is the front crank shaft seal. Can I do that myself? Is it hard? Im going to take pics of the seals so maybe I can get ehlp on here and do everything myself and keep my Toyota. Its kinds nice being part of the Toyota Toy Home Community........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 I bought my 86 seabreeze in August and have been doing nothing but dumping money in to it. Also, if I was looking to get something else that is newer that gets over 15 miles to the gallon what are my options. Even if it isnt an toyota. I would expect that from most any vehicle that is near 30 years old unless it had a meticulous owner who was also a mechanic. That's why I prefer to buy them cheap, expect the worse, and go through everything before using. That being said - sounds like you don't need much mechanically. A blower motor for $25 at a salvage yard ought to be easy to find. If the front seal is actually blowing out oil and not just dribbing, the problem might be the crankcase not venting properly and not the seal. As to RVs that get over 15 MPG? A diesel truck with a slide-on camper is one option. A Volkswagen-based Rialta is another. Chevy Astro Allegro is another. They all cost money though. Don't drive that poor Toyota in western PA too long in the winter or it will self-destruct from the road salt and rust. I'm not too far in central NY and I wouldn't dare drive any good vehicle on the road this time of year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Front crank seals leaked on all R series engines very common very easy fix. Any used MH is going to have issues if they are 10 years or older be thoughtful of leaping from the frying pan. 15 MPG motor homes are going to be really had to find, There is stuff out there Sprinter class B two arms a one leg diesel pickup and slide in only a leg and one arm. I would love a Via 15MPG class A saw one the other day used for 78K. It sounds like your into yours pretty good but it could be some thing you could drive for the next 10 years when your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 About 15 years ago, the Toyota dealer charged me $50 to replace the front seal. The occasional drop of oil on the driveway was starting to become several drops of oil. Looking in the Toyota Repair manual, it looks like the seal is just behind the main pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8white Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Ok guys. I am going to stick with it. I customized this to fit my needs. But the problem is when I take it to a mechanic I almost always get ripped off. If in fact it is the front crank seal which I am certain it is because 3 mechanics told me so, please educate me. I want to take it to my mechanic who is very fair and knows what the hell he is talking about. I been ripped off by a bunch of mechanics but now have the right people. But I want to seem educated. Or, can I do this myself. I used to work on an oil rig so I am pretty mechanically inclined. If so please give me all the info you can........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Start with the FSM. '85 version:- https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B_1LbTxQDmlVYTZiZWE5NzgtZmIzYi00Y2YwLTg5YmYtNjNmNTQwMDVkMTA5&hl=en '93 version:- http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 I hated getting ripped off and just began doing all the work myself. It's been ten years since a mechanic last worked on one of my cars. Mostly, the maintenance has been far easier than I ever imagined. I bought a Toyota factory service manual and learned auto repair. Various friends have helped me out over the years and my confidence grew. If you are going to replace the seal, use google to find others who've already done it. Some post pictures of their work. Yotatech and Toyotanation seem to be gathering spots for those who like to open up Toyotas. A Harbor freight wheel puller is what I use to remove the main pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8white Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 I hated getting ripped off and just began doing all the work myself. It's been ten years since a mechanic last worked on one of my cars. Mostly, the maintenance has been far easier than I ever imagined. I bought a Toyota factory service manual and learned auto repair. Various friends have helped me out over the years and my confidence grew. If you are going to replace the seal, use google to find others who've already done it. Some post pictures of their work. Yotatech and Toyotanation seem to be gathering spots for those who like to open up Toyotas. A Harbor freight wheel puller is what I use to remove the main pulley. Ok great advice. I am gonna start doing stuff myself. Your scaring me with the pulley lol...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 i have done the job remove the pully i took the oil pump it is the part the seal is in off there is a special o ring in a grove on the back of the pump. should be replaced also lay oil pump on a clean somthing .CARE FULLY PRI THE SEAL OUT . take a large socket the size of the outside dia seal carfly tap st st in flush flat and strat i seem to rember you can use heavy grease to hold the o ring in place BE CAREFUL NOT TO DUMP PARTS OF THE OIL PUMP OUT ON THE GROUND ETC IF I MISS ANYTHING SOMONE CORRECTME HAVE TO DO SAME ON my 88 4wd xtra cab. BEEN A FEW YEARS SINCE I DID ONE.ONLY FIVE OR SIX LITTLE BOLTS HOLD IT ON Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Worst part of the entire job is dealing with the belts good time to change them if they haven't been done all ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Ok guys. I am going to stick with it. I customized this to fit my needs. But the problem is when I take it to a mechanic I almost always get ripped off. If in fact it is the front crank seal which I am certain it is because 3 mechanics told me so, please educate me. I want to take it to my mechanic who is very fair and knows what the hell he is talking about. I been ripped off by a bunch of mechanics but now have the right people. But I want to seem educated. Or, can I do this myself. I used to work on an oil rig so I am pretty mechanically inclined. If so please give me all the info you can........ The seal itself only costs $2-$4, and maybe twice that at a local NAPA type store. E.g. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0522144 for $2.14. If the crankshaft stub has a gouge worn into it from the old seal, you need to install a repair sleeve. That costs an extra $20 or so. E.g. TIMKEN Part # KWK99177 Like I stated earlier, if oil is actually "spitting" out of there, you'd better make sure your crankcase venting is working. Mostly based on the PCV valve on the older engines (Positive Crankcase Vent). If it is not working, your front and rear seals will develop leaks - even with new seals installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Replace furnace blower, You can try re-oiling it, you can also try a used one from the junk yard.. If you have a little time and would like to do a little searching, pull the old blower motor out, and make some measurements and see if you can find an alternate source for the motor. I believe JD had some ideas on where to buy motors. The blower has two squirrel cages mounted on it, one for cabin air (blows the heat at you) and one for combustion air. I believe the bearing on the combustion air side gets hot and dries up the oil and you soon find it squealing. This seems to be a very common problem with this blower. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3520 John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robski21 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 For the front seal, look here. http://www.yotatech.com/f114/22r-front-crank-seal-1981-2wd-126295/ I just did it to my 83 sunrader, and my dd 95 pick up and its not that bad to tackle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Having gone through the crank seal replacement on my 20R I can give you some advice. The seal is a common problem. I replaced mine when I first got my toy. 6 months later it developed a leak past the oil pump O-ring. Ended up taking it all apart again. An aftermarket oil pump is about $75.00 at the chain stores. If your going to do the seal you may want to change the pump at the same time. My pump's bolted to the front of the block behind the crank pully. It's a pretty straight forward job. You will need a chain wrench, 2 8x1.25 mm bolts for the pully and a gear puller. Let me know if you want to attempt this. I'll help as much as I can. Fred The new pump will come with the front oil seal installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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