Radiator replacement

[ShaggyRV]

Hello all. I'm back from Iraq and starting to work on my 1985 Granville. I want to put in a 3 row all metal radiator. CSF makes good ones I guess. Any recommendations with part numbers would be greatly appeciated!!

[linda s]

Hello all. I'm back from Iraq and starting to work on my 1985 Granville. I want to put in a 3 row all metal radiator. CSF makes good ones I guess. Any recommendations with part numbers would be greatly appeciated!!

Yes I replaced mine last year with a CSF radiator. Here's the 3 row and this is the same place I bought from

http://www.ebay.com/...069f3a7&vxp=mtr

I put a 2 row in mine because the 3 row was back ordered and I needed it asap. It works so well my toy doesn't heat up past the 1/4 mark.

LS

Sorry but even though I searched for your vehicle now the link is telling me it won't fit. This site is running very slow today but that is the place I bought mine from. Maybe you could search their website. I know the 4x4 one is taller than the 2wd one so maybe thats the problem.

Well here is a 2 row CSF that will fit. Same as the one I bought and more than emough to cool your rig

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CSF-Radiator-Truck-Metal-Toyota-Pickup-89-88-87-86-85-84-Parts-Car-Auto-1989-/140770109780?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D699391876326071329%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26#vi-ilComp

[ShaggyRV]

Thanks for the info!! I will be ordering one soon.

[Davidadro]

I'm not sure if the 1985 radiator is the same as my 1983 is, but look and see if it has a heater pipe hook up "T" on the return hose fitting. If it does, a regular return hose radiator wont work, I made the mistake and had to order a second due to overlooking that feature. Thank you for your service by the way, we appreciate the sacrifice and the courage. Peace!

[jeanvill1]

Hi ShaggyRV, Linda s and Davidadro,

I'm a long time reader but new to posting.

So what did you get for your radiator? Did you go with the CSF? How did it fit? Pics? I'm looking to replace the family RV's radiator. We have a small model Ranger.

Jean

[linda s]

Hi ShaggyRV, Linda s and Davidadro,

I'm a long time reader but new to posting.

So what did you get for your radiator? Did you go with the CSF? How did it fit? Pics? I'm looking to replace the family RV's radiator. We have a small model Ranger.

Jean

I got my CSF radiator on ebay. Fit's perfect, quick to install. Never bothered to take a pic. It just looks like a radiator. CSF ones are all metal. Many others have plastic at the top which I don't like at all. Ebay prices are looking high right now. Look on google

Linda S

[jeanvill1]

Thanks Linda S. I just ordered its $173.05 that's with shipping insurance.

[waiter]

Replace thermostat and cap at same time -- ALSO - you may consider replacing the water pump as a preventative maintenance. The front seal usually starts weeping. ( and now that your there, look at the hoses and belts.)

I replaced my water pump and leave the old one in the truck as a spare.. that way I'll never need it.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[ShaggyRV]

Funny this has recent activity. I got home from Iraq in mid July. Changed all fluids including trans. It was really hot at this time 95 deg. I drove the RV on side roads and temps were about 1/3 up the gauge. I get it on the Interstate and temps are higher than I would like to see them. 2/3 scale or a little higher with A/C on and not much better with it off. It never overheated but just higher than I like to see. so I go to Advance and get a new fan clutch before I take off to Key West to get married. well it actually seemed the same or even a tad worse. I drive to Key West from Martinsbueg WV area and back with no overheating but much higher on the gauge than I like to see. I should have bought the new radiator before I left. Long story short I made it there and back with no overheating. This past weekend I replaced the Rad. water pump thermostat and hoses. Its much cooler out now but a few miles down the interstate and the temps start climbing again. so I take it on some back roads and climb a short but steep mountain. Temp gets really high. to the upper white line so I stop and let it run and cool down. with my exhaust leak at the manifold now fixed I'm thinking I just don't hear the clutch fan kicking in with a noticeable roar with the engine temps this high. After all this work and money its still too hot. So the next morning I grab my original fan clutch and put it back in. WOW!! Temps are great now both climbing hills and on the interstate. So I'm sure the fresh radiator and 180 deg thermostat were part of the resolution but don't underestimate your fan clutch as a culprit when you're having these types of problems. The Advance Auto parts fan clutch I bought is probably some chinese crap anyhow. I think I'm going to order an OEM which is made by AISIN. They supplied Toyota and still do I think. I've heard similar stories on the LandCruiser forum as I have a 1986 and the guys there swear by OEM when it comes to fan clutch. Water pumps etc. Just remember that just because its a new part doesn't mean its any good. A bad fan clutch will definitely cause high temps on the highway or climbing hills!! But now all my stuff is new less the fan clutch which is the original I'm sure. I'm getting a new one just to keep with me for piece of mind.

[ShaggyRV]

Hi ShaggyRV, Linda s and Davidadro,

I'm a long time reader but new to posting.

So what did you get for your radiator? Did you go with the CSF? How did it fit? Pics? I'm looking to replace the family RV's radiator. We have a small model Ranger.

Jean

I got the 2 row CSF. It works great now!!

[sdboltdude]

going to install a 2 row in the next couple weeks

toyhome never overheated but got up to 3/4 hot on steep incline...

so will replace thermostat cap and radiator for longer trips and the GrapeVine

[jeanvill1]

When I start the engine at warm up and around town is fine. But its running really 3/4 warm on the freeway. I think I need a thermostat replacement also now.

I live in San Diego and we use it locally mostly. I want a quality built thermostat. I will also check the fan clutch and replace if need.

Are there some trusted brands out there everyone uses for themostat and fan clutch?

Edited December 7, 2012 by jeanvill1

[zero]

When I start the engine at warm up and around town is fine. But its running really 3/4 warm on the freeway. I think I need a thermostat replacement also now.

I live in San Diego and we use it locally mostly. I want a quality built thermostat. I will also check the fan clutch and replace if need.

Are there some trusted brands out there everyone uses for themostat and fan clutch?

Just about all the thermostats have OEM jiggle pins and are stainless steel and copper. Not much variation in quality that I've come across. The Beck Arnley with the rubber seal is about as "fancy" as they get. Beck Arnley parts are usually OEM stye Asian sourced parts instead of a USA Stant or Gates.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=481779&cc=1277300

Again - can't say I've seen a difference in fan-clutch quality either and they rarely cause cooling problems at highway speeds. With most cars and truck you can drive with no fan at all and have no problems until you drive slow or stop.

Can't tell from here - but your symptoms sound like a half-plugged radiator core. They all get plugged up when they get old enough - either from debris and/or from "solder bloom" which is caused by solder and corrosives. Take a peek down your filler hole on top and look closely at the few vertical passages you can see. Are they clean or do they have white corrosive deposits? If it looks plugged, you're dollars ahead to just buy a new radiator. We used to take them apart and "rod" out the cores. That means desoldering the tanks, rodding, resoldering ,etc. With labor costs today - buying new, unfortunately, is often cheaper.

[Derek up North]

By the FSM, 22R-E thermostat is 190F, 3VZ-E (V6) is 180F.

[5Toyota]

most raditors are considered throwaway today we had six raditor shops here dowen to one now. i WOULD AVOIDTHE PLASTIC TANK UNITS IF POSSABLE BEING AN OLD TIMER I CONSIDER THEM JUNK

[Vanman]

All the new stuff seems to be using really small radiators and close coupled electric fans. The subaru has 2 and I've only seen the 2 one come on once, under extreme heat, ideling, with the air cond on full blast. The off road guys are using this set up on their trucks, using the fans from one of the Ford cars, but the fan is made in Japan or Korea, don't remember which off hand.

Wouldn't this be easier than installing a bigger radiator core??

When I rebuilt the cooling system on my 71 Dodge van the big radiator core didn't make much difference till I replaced the stock 4 blade metal fan with the bigger 6 blade fiberglass fan, HUGE difference. No clutch, belt & pulley drive.

[jeanvill1]

I forgot to mention. I replaced the Radiator and fuilds and all hoses.

Jean

[zero]

All the new stuff seems to be using really small radiators and close coupled electric fans. The subaru has 2 and I've only seen the 2 one come on once, under extreme heat, ideling, with the air cond on full blast. The off road guys are using this set up on their trucks, using the fans from one of the Ford cars, but the fan is made in Japan or Korea, don't remember which off hand.

Wouldn't this be easier than installing a bigger radiator core??

When I rebuilt the cooling system on my 71 Dodge van the big radiator core didn't make much difference till I replaced the stock 4 blade metal fan with the bigger 6 blade fiberglass fan, HUGE difference. No clutch, belt & pulley drive.

I don't know what the deal was with your van - but at highway speeds the fan should be doing nothing unless you're pulling a trailer, have the AC on and it's 110 F outside. Road-wind does the cooling. But I suspect some vans have air flow problems. Not the case with conventional trucks.

Also, a fiberglass fan turns "off" at high RPMs via centrifugal force. The fan blades are designed to flatten out.

Autos/truck engines are becoming more fuel efficient. The more efficient and engine is, the smaller the radiator. When an engine is not efficient, much of the gas is wasted to heat and the radiator has to get rid of it.

Even with diesels -when the change was made from indirect injection - to direct injection - the radiators got much smaller.

As to plastic? I don't like the looks of it but have no fear of it. I have several high mile vehicles with plastic-tank radiators and I've not had a single failure caused by plastic. I just put a new radiator in my 2002 Kia Sportage. 155,000 miles on the original plastic-tank rad and still had no leaks. Just a plugged core inside that made it run too hot when the AC got turned on.

Main down-side to plastic is it makes a radiator a "throw-away" item. But - nowadays copper-tank radiators have the same fate. That because brand new radiators are so cheap and and labor costs in the USA are so high.

[5Toyota]

i just put a plastic raditor in my dodge car 2004 50.000 miles but napa raditor better built end seams started leacking. seen other brands tankblow apart crack etc etc new er models is all you can get. i haved soldered brass ones myself pin holes on tank and ran fine.

[zero]

i just put a plastic raditor in my dodge car 2004 50.000 miles but napa raditor better built end seams started leacking. seen other brands tankblow apart crack etc etc new er models is all you can get. i haved soldered brass ones myself pin holes on tank and ran fine.

I haven't seen,nor heard of any issues that make plasitc tanks less durable then copper. Being crimped on instead of soldered they are not very serviceable. Many of the plastic tank radiators also have aluminum cores instead of coppper. Just about impossible to fix. Again, not sure how much it matters. If you've got copper and get a rock through your radiator - you can fix pretty easy. Other then debris damage though - I've seen the plastic tank radiators outlast many cars. We had our own radiator shop back 40 years ago. It used to be cost effective to recore a radiator - or to remove the tanks and rod-out. Or one bad tube? Cut it out and solder the hole in the tank closed. No more - unless it is really something rare and you can't find a complete new one. Biggest problem I see now-adays with radiators is "solder bloom" and plugging inside. "Solder bloom" happens more with copper then it does aluminum. I suppose if a vehicle actually gets frequent coolant changes and/or PH tests - a lot of the plugging would be prevented. I'm certainly guilty of not doing it though - except with my diesels. Diesels can reallly suffer with bad coolant and gets holes in the cylinder walls from cavitation if the coolant PH is bad.

The radiator in my 78 Toyota is half-plugged. The 1987 Toyota I just cut apart also has a 1/2 plugged radiator. Last time I was in the junkyard I looked at the radiators in two Toyota motorhomes - a 78 and an 84. Both had plugged radiators. So I know Toyotas get the problem too. Both those Toyota motorhomes had dead engines and both had less then 100K miles on them.

[Derek up North]

And some people think that a partially plugged radiator can be 'cured' by installing a 180F thermostat instead of the recommended 190F!

Who makes the radiator sold by NAPA? Not Spectra Premium by any chance?

[zero]

And some people think that a partially plugged radiator can be 'cured' by installing a 180F thermostat instead of the recommended 190F!

Who makes the radiator sold by NAPA? Not Spectra Premium by any chance?

NAPA sells Spectra and APDI radiators.

[Derek up North]

Spectra is local to me. Haven't come across any negative press about then. A large supplier to OEM and Aftermarket. Gas tanks too.

[zero]

Spectra is local to me. Haven't come across any negative press about then. A large supplier to OEM and Aftermarket. Gas tanks too.

I've used many Spectra gas tanks and radiators. Never had any issue yet. Three of my diesel trucks have Spectra gas tanks. My 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan, 1995 Subaru Impreza and 1999 Kia Sportage all have Spectra radiators. Note that none of the originals ever leaked. Just got partially plugged.

[5Toyota]

i think it was the spectra one thing i have seen with aluminum heads is when nobody changes colent the heads start to corode out have seen more then one aluminum head all eaten up . a guy gave me a junk 20 r the head was soo ate up the antifreze all went down in the oilpan seen other heads same way. and yes raditor shops about as rare as a cabose on a freight train we live in the throw away erea.

[zero]

i think it was the spectra one thing i have seen with aluminum heads is when nobody changes coolant the heads start to corrode out have seen more then one aluminum head all eaten up . a guy gave me a junk 20 r the head was so ate up the antifreeze all went down in the oilpan seen other heads same way.

That's why GM had to get rid of one of the neatest little engines they ever built. An all-aluminum 215 cubic inch V8 in the early 60s. Came in a few Buicks, Olds F85, etc. Also was available with a turbo-charger. It was so light that two drunk teenagers could yank it out of car with no hoist (I know, I did it). The engines corroded something awful and GM claimed it was caused by owner ignorance and lack of proper coolant. It must of been true because British Leyland bought the 215 from GM and stuck it into many sports and touring cars and was a great engine. MGC-GT, Rover, replacement engine for many Truimph Stags, etc. The 215 c.i. V8 was actually lighter then the four-cylinder cast iron engines used in MGBs.

[Derek up North]

Not the MGC, but the MGB GT V8. Also most commonly seem in the US in the Range Rover, TR8 and Morgan +8.

[Maineah]

I worked for British Leyland for several years at BWI. We put several in the MGB's and MGC's it was 9# lighter then the stock 4 cylinder iron engine and a lot lighter then the MGC 6. All though it was bought by Rover they filtered down to the the MG's but only as a great up grade by there owners. There was a British Co. that made an MGB coupe called a Special with the engine fitted to new cars. Rover also decided the cast in block liners were not a good ideal and installed pressed in liners. Gm's biggest issue was over heat do mostly to their marginal cooling system and being all aluminum that was not a good thing. The turbo was only used in the Olds Buick never got one and the turbo engine had extra head bolts very rare. TVR managed to get some impressive power out of them. The block was different then all the other GM engines it had it's own special bell housing pattern. Land Rover eventually went to the BMW engine but the old Buick engine had a really good run after Rover fixed it. That would be the only V8 I would consider for a Toyota MH. At one point I had about 8 of them mostly from P6 Rover sedans they had bell housings designed for the Borg Warner automatic. A few years ago I sold my last sports car it was a TR8.

[zero]

Not the MGC, but the MGB GT V8. Also most commonly seem in the US in the Range Rover, TR8 and Morgan +8.

You're probably right. I remember the MGC coming out with the straight six. Also saw a few with the 215 V8s and assumed they were MGC GTs. I still have a 1972 B with the four. My favorite 2 seater sports car back then was the Lord Rootes Sunbeam Tiger. Designed by Carol Shelby but with several short-cuts. "Poor man's" AC Cobra at the time. He took the Sunbeam Alpine, stuck a Ford 260 V8, Ford cast-iron four speed trans, ladder bars and a Jeep-type rear end. Amazing little cars. My first one (1964) would easily do 120 MPH and at normal highway speeds get 20 MPG. Only weighed around 2200 lbs. The later ones had 289s and I had one with a 302 in it (swapped in). The Tiger got ruined by Chrysler Corp. They bought it and then tried to dump the Ford V8 and stick in a Mopar 273. No good. The engine was too fat and heavy. So they dumped the Tiger and used the original engine and drivetrain from the Alpine for some new US car. I think it was the short-lived Cricket. Sometime later I got hooked on Datsun sports cars. The PL series and the the famous "Fairlady." Still have one. The 240Z was named by Datsun for US sales as the "Fair Lady" but that name went over poorly. So, they revamped the image and renamed it the "Z." Funny that Toyota never really had a sports car that I know of. The Supra is the only thing I know of that was close. Datsun, Opel, Volvo, MG, Fiat, MG, Triumph, TVR, Austin Healy, Jensen, AC Bristol, Porsche, Mazda, Alfa Romeo,Mercedes, all had them in the US. Even Daimler had a small very weird one with a hemi V8 that was I think a 1/3 scale Mopar Hemi copy. The Daimler SP-250 with the 152 cubic inch hemi. Kind of odd that Toyota never came up (that I recall).

[zero]

That would be the only V8 I would consider for a Toyota MH. At one point I had about 8 of them mostly from P6 Rover sedans they had bell housings designed for the Borg Warner automatic. A few yeas ago I sold my last sports car it was a TR8.

I used to work for a BMW dealership to - in the early 70s. My boss owned a BMW dealership and also a John Deere heavy equipment dealership next door. Two of the service vehicles at the Deere dealership were little boxy BMW cars - loaded with tools. I guess they were cheap trade-ins.

Not that I'd want one in anything due to lack of parts at least - but I used to have a little 1962 Daimler SP-250 two-seater sports car with a tiny V8 hemi. 152 cubic inches.

I can't think of a good reason to have a V8 in any Toyota. I don't even particularly like them in big vehicles anymore either. I've got several V8 diesel trucks and one straight 6 diesel truck. Even though the Cummins 6 is the smalest of them all - it easily outpulls my GMs and Fords and gets better fuel mileage doing it. It's very hard to make a strong V8 unless it's very heavy. The US military learned that lesson the hard way when they adopted the GM-Detroit 6.2 and 6.5 diesel V8 for CUCVs and Humvees. A straight 6 can have a ladder-frame block and be very rugged.

The 3.9 liter Cummins 4BT turbo diesel would be my choice in a Toyota motorhome if it could be rammed in there. it was a common replacement in bigger Class As that had blown GM 6.2s and 6.5s. Great engine. Was used in many bread-van type trucks until the newer emissions regs kicked in. Now it seems maybe the Daimler Sprinter engine has taken its place.

[Derek up North]

Costello was the British company the would sell the 'B with the V8, Then BLMC took over production with a detuned (137HP from the Range Rover spec). Built less than 3000, UK market only. GTs only. Finally killed it off when BLMC decided to pour all it's resources into Triumph and the TR8. Resurrected (briefly) as the RV8 for the UK and Japanese markets in 1993 (all RHD).

Sunbeam started selling the Tiger before Chrysler bought the Rootes Group. Wouldn't do to sell a car powered by Ford! But you're right, the 273 wouldn't fit. And the Tiger was handicapped by it's 13" wheels! Couldn't safely handle the power of the Hi-Po 289.

http://www.britishv8.org/

Toyota 2000GT. Unobtainable without very deep pockets!!

http://en.wikipedia....i/Toyota_2000GT

Can't forget the Toyota Sports 800!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Sports_800

[zero]

Sunbeam started selling the Tiger before Chrysler bought the Rootes Group. Wouldn't do to sell a car powered by Ford! But you're right, the 273 wouldn't fit. And the Tiger was handicapped by it's 13" wheels! Couldn't safely handle the power of the Hi-Po 289.

I was just learning how to work on cars when the first Sunbeam Tigers were brand new. I was working as a grease monkey in a Mobil station when a guy brought in a new Tiger to have us put on a lift.

I had many. I never considered the small tires a problem. The steering was the worst part of the car. Shelby took short cuts and messed up the steering. The original Alpine had a steering box. Shelby put in rack and pinion steering to make room for the V8. Problem was he did it poorly and the car had no Ackerman Angle. That is what makes the wheels go on different turning circles when making turns. Without it, the tires screech and wear at every turn if if going slow.

That was one problem. The other was "hot feet." After driving a Tiger for an hour, the floor got so hot your feet started to burn.

I beat a few big block Chevelles back in the day with my Tigers. You just had to take off slowly and once past 10-15 MPH, nail it. Otherwise the Tiger would just sit there, burn rubber and go nowhere.. Even with the LAT optional ladder bars in back and posi rear.

You mentioned TVR. I used to work next to a dealership that sold TVRs. All I saw had Ford V8s. They also had a few Triumph Stags around with GM type 215 aluminum V8s. I was told they were swapped in because the original Triumph Stag V8s were so badly engineered. After all these years I got to see a Triumph Stag this summer with the original Triumph V8. Broken down on the side of the road on the way to a Triumph rally. It was a very strange and crude looking engine. The water pump was bad and it was about the most convoluted water pump system I've ever seen.

[zero]

Can't forget the Toyota Sports 800!

http://en.wikipedia....yota_Sports_800

I've never heard of, nor seen that 800. Cute little car. Not sure if by US standards an 800 cc engine would be regarded as a "sports car." I had a Fiat racing version Abarth 850 Spyder. That also had a tiny little engine in the rear. Tiny car with fantasic handling - but Abarth or not -very little power. Got amazingly good gas mileage though.

I was lucky to grow up in somewhat rural area but close to New York City. There were many affluent city people around who bought all sorts of weird foreign cars as toys. After a few years they'd get tired of them and I'd often buy cheap. Dafs. two-stroke DKWs, Amphi-cars that had Triumph engines and could run across water, almost 3 wheeled German Isetta bubble cars, Humbers, Borgards, etc. I was fascinated with foreign cars back then. They were so different then US stuff.

[Derek up North]

Was the Abarth version still 803cc?

Oh, and the Cricket/Avenger was a different engine family from the 1725 Alpine. 1250 & 1500cc(US).

[5Toyota]

TOYOTA HAD A POOR MANS SPORTS CAR THE CELICA G T NOT IN A CLASS WITH A Z OF COARSE BUT UNDER THE HOOD THE 20r A w50five speed AND A HOOD HINGED AT THE FRONT and some SPORTY rims i have a DELUX SHIFT KNOB FROM A 1977 CELICA IN MY 4WD