Welded Shackles

[Ssunrader]

So I have decided to replace the elongated original rubber bushings in the rear of our ‘91. Upon disassembly, it became clear that it wasn’t happening without a sawzall.

 

The shackles have a brace connection between them, and it is welded. That, along with the constraint of the studs having been welded in place, as is normal for shackles, creates an assembly that is unable to be taken apart without cutting something.

 

Is this normal for Sunrader motorhomes?

 

 

[fred heath]

1 hour ago, Ssunrader said:

So I have decided to replace the elongated original rubber bushings in the rear of our ‘91. Upon disassembly, it became clear that it wasn’t happening without a sawzall.

 

The shackles have a brace connection between them, and it is welded. That, along with the constraint of the studs having been welded in place, as is normal for shackles, creates an assembly that is unable to be taken apart without cutting something.

 

Is this normal for Sunrader motorhomes?

 

 

The upper (frame) bolt should push through as well as the bolt holding the leaf spring. You may need a torch and an air hammer to get them out. Many times they’re frozen in place. The welded center brace is used to prevent flexing of the shackle itself.

I’ve never cared for fixed styles like this. You can buy heavy duty shackles online for replacement or fabricate your own.

[Ssunrader]

Thanks for your reply.

I have tried to pound on the bolts/studs, but didn’t seem to want to move, and only had round, weld-on heads. Everything else has been fairly easy on this rig.
Maybe I need to retain the spring somehow so it can’t react to the forces, or, get an air hammer…

 

Seemed like a way to save about a dollar worth of steel and not make the shackles a 1/16” thicker!

[WME]

Angle grinder, solid punch and a BFH.

[Ssunrader]

Well it looks like the shackles that were used were meant for something about 2-3/8” wide, not the 2-3/4” spring/bushing combo that’s in there, were forced into place and not very well.

 

Think its time to write off the hack job shackles and get something proper.

Really not a fan of the pressed in studs that have the knurled end on them either in this design, maybe without the welded brace.

 

So the 4” angle grinder is looking like the weapon of choice!

[linda s]

The leaf springs should be 2 3/8 wide. That is stock for our trucks. Those shackles look like ones that are for lift. That's why they have the center weld. It's needed to prevent twisting. Lift shackles are more commonly used on 4x4 vehicles for off road but they might have just wanted more clearance for camping roads. I don't see what you mean by welded bolts. I see threaded bolts and nuts. Of course cutting them off still might be the easiest I'd bet I could get them off with my impact wrench after some soaking with PB blaster. 

Linda S

Oh and yes support the frame and the axle separately. You must have air bags. Sudden drop of the axle could rip them

[Ssunrader]

Well I think I have some better parts now, so can start cutting and grinding things apart soon. Just need to do some trial fitting before tearing out the old ones.

 

The studs (not bolts) are actually pressed into one side, were drawn in during assembly. I had initially thought they had been welded in since that side was round, no flats for a wrench. The driver’s side is installed such that the gray tank is in the way while removing, something that makes me think it was likely done before that tank was installed. 
 

The springs are indeed 2-3/8” wide, however one must account for the flanges of the bushings poking out as well, for the shackle inside dimensions.
 

As heavy as this thing is, I’m not surprised that the lift shackles were installed, too bad they’re not the right parts for the vehicle, aren’t worth saving.