akwcanoe Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Trouble shooting my Dometic fridge. Works on propane and 120. Flame lights up on propane and heating element gets hot (very!) On 120. So no worries there. When I switch it to 12 volt I get power (12+volts) on both sides of the positive terminal in the back (See pic 1) but the 12 volt heating element doesn't heat up at all. No voltage on the negative terminal going to the heating element and no load showing on my battery status monitor. Ground is good. Bad switch? Bad element? Bad brain? Any suggestions? I have included a picture of the wiring at the power center as well should that be of any use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Don't know what is wrong with it but I never use my fridge on 12 volt, ever. Doesn't keep food cold enough and just too much trouble to keep lighting the propane. 15 years with my toy and I don't miss it one bit. If your fridge is original I would just be thankful it works. Linda S If you must check resistance of 12 volt heating element. Specs are online somewhere. If it shot the are lots of options for replacement for not a ton of money. 30 to 50 bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akwcanoe Posted May 24, 2021 Author Share Posted May 24, 2021 Figured it was worth trying even though it is original. We do use ours and fridge does keep things cool. The freezer will keep things frozen if they start out that way - least for a while:) Main thing is I'd like to have it work while we're rolling. Not a fan of running propane while in motion or at the gas pump. Don't seem to have any trouble starting it on propane - although one of us needs to be outside to see when it lights up. Worth a try at any rate. Needs new door seals as well. They're on order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Unplug the 12v heater and use an ohm meter to check resistance. Open means it's burned out. 0 ohms is also bad. 1-2 ohms is good. This is a very low reading and requires a good meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akwcanoe Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 Will give this a try. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akwcanoe Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 Update to Linda S and WME. Thanks for your help. Checked the resistance and within the limits of my odometer, got good results. 'Not zero' for the element but not infinite either. Regardless, the process of disconnecting and reconnecting all the leads seems to have fixed the problem. Now pulling 10 amps! I only use the 12 volt setting while rolling. Alternator was upgraded to 55 amps (from the stock 40) and seems to handle this extra load fine. I will be seeing how well it actually cools on next trip. Really just need it to hold the temperature until we get into camp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Yeah they work well moving don't for get to switch it when you park to propane got it an hour or two on propane before you leave then switch to DC I never had any issues on propane but the electricity is basically free while on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akwcanoe Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 Thanks Maineah. I will keep your advice in mind. Add it to my in-flight check list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extech Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 take the 2 wires(black and white) out of the terminal block. check the resistance between them. infinate=bad heater element. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extech Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 sorry. still figuring out this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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